Baby Bunny Amigurumi Pattern (Free & Beginner Friendly)

If you’ve been wanting to try amigurumi but aren’t sure where to start, this baby bunny pattern is exactly what you need. It’s small, sweet, and simple enough for complete beginners — but the finished result is so charming that experienced crocheters come back to it again and again. Whether you’re making it as a baby shower gift, a nursery decoration, or just a fun weekend project, this little bunny is guaranteed to steal hearts.

In this post, you’ll find the full free pattern with step-by-step instructions, a materials list, helpful tips for beginners, and answers to the most common questions people have when crocheting their first amigurumi. Grab your hook and let’s get started.

What Is Amigurumi?

Before we dive into the pattern itself, let’s take a quick moment for anyone who is completely new to the craft. Amigurumi is the Japanese art of crocheting or knitting small stuffed animals and characters. The word combines the Japanese words for “knitted” and “stuffed doll.” These little creatures originated in Japan but have become wildly popular around the world over the past two decades, and it’s easy to see why — they’re adorable, portable, and endlessly customizable.

Most amigurumi are worked in continuous rounds rather than joined rounds, which gives them a seamless, rounded shape. This technique is sometimes called crocheting “in the round” or using a magic ring start. Don’t worry if those terms sound unfamiliar — the pattern below walks you through everything clearly.

Why a Baby Bunny?

Bunnies are one of the most beloved amigurumi subjects for good reason. Their long ears make them immediately recognizable, their round little bodies are satisfying to stuff and shape, and they photograph beautifully. A small baby bunny — roughly 4 to 5 inches tall — is the perfect size to sit on a shelf, tuck into an Easter basket, or nestle in a gift bag alongside a baby shower present.

This particular pattern uses basic stitches only: magic ring, single crochet, increase, and decrease. If you can do those four things, you can finish this bunny. Most beginners complete it in an afternoon or evening.

Materials You Will Need

You don’t need much to make this little bunny, and most of what you need is probably already in your craft supplies.

Yarn: About 50 to 80 yards of worsted weight yarn (size 4) in your main color. A small amount of a contrasting color for the belly, inner ears, or cheeks is optional but adds a nice touch. Any fiber works well — acrylic is the most common choice for amigurumi because it’s widely available, affordable, and easy to wash, which is important if the bunny will be given to a child.

Hook: A 3.5 mm crochet hook. You can go slightly smaller (3.0 mm) if you find your stitches are too loose, or slightly larger (4.0 mm) if your tension is very tight. The goal is a dense fabric with no gaps that stuffing could poke through.

Stuffing: Polyester fiberfill, enough to stuff the body and head firmly. Firmly stuffed amigurumi hold their shape better and look more polished.

Safety eyes: Two 6 mm black safety eyes. These are the small plastic eyes with a washer that locks them in place on the back. They’re available at most craft stores and online. If the bunny is for a baby under three years old, embroider the eyes with black yarn instead for safety.

Yarn needle: For sewing pieces together and weaving in ends.

Stitch marker: To mark the beginning of each round. A small piece of contrasting yarn or a locking stitch marker works perfectly.

Scissors.

Optional: Pink embroidery floss or yarn for the nose, blush powder or pink chalk for rosy cheeks, and small ribbon for a neck bow.

Abbreviations Used in This Pattern

This pattern uses US crochet terminology.

MR — Magic ring
ch — Chain
sl st — Slip stitch
sc — Single crochet
inc — Increase (2 single crochets in the same stitch)
dec — Invisible decrease (insert hook through front loops only of the next two stitches, pull up a loop, yarn over and pull through both loops)
BLO — Back loop only
st(s) — Stitch(es)
rnd — Round

Pattern Notes

Work in continuous rounds unless otherwise noted. Do not join rounds or turn your work. Use a stitch marker to keep track of where each round begins. Move the marker up at the start of each new round.

The invisible decrease (dec) is highly recommended for amigurumi because it produces a tighter, cleaner finish than the standard decrease. To work it, insert your hook through the front loop only of the first stitch and the front loop only of the second stitch, pull up a single loop, yarn over, and draw through both loops on your hook.

When the pattern says to leave a long tail for sewing, leave at least 12 inches. Having extra length gives you more control when attaching pieces.

Finished size is approximately 4.5 inches tall when made with worsted weight yarn and a 3.5 mm hook.

Baby Bunny Amigurumi Pattern

Head

Round 1: MR, 6 sc into ring. (6 sts)
Round 2: Inc in each st around. (12 sts)
Round 3: *Sc 1, inc* repeat around. (18 sts)
Round 4: *Sc 2, inc* repeat around. (24 sts)
Round 5: *Sc 3, inc* repeat around. (30 sts)
Round 6: *Sc 4, inc* repeat around. (36 sts)
Rounds 7–13: Sc in each st around. (36 sts, 7 rounds)
Round 14: *Sc 4, dec* repeat around. (30 sts)
Round 15: *Sc 3, dec* repeat around. (24 sts)

At this point, attach the safety eyes between rounds 10 and 11, with about 8 stitches between them. If you prefer embroidered eyes, wait until the head is nearly closed and embroider from the outside.

Round 16: *Sc 2, dec* repeat around. (18 sts)

Now stuff the head firmly with fiberfill. Continue stuffing as you decrease.

Round 17: *Sc 1, dec* repeat around. (12 sts)
Round 18: Dec around. (6 sts)

Fasten off, leaving a short tail. Use your yarn needle to close the remaining hole by weaving through the front loops of each remaining stitch and pulling tight. Weave in the end securely.

Body

Round 1: MR, 6 sc into ring. (6 sts)
Round 2: Inc in each st around. (12 sts)
Round 3: *Sc 1, inc* repeat around. (18 sts)
Round 4: *Sc 2, inc* repeat around. (24 sts)
Round 5: *Sc 3, inc* repeat around. (30 sts)
Rounds 6–12: Sc in each st around. (30 sts, 7 rounds)
Round 13: *Sc 3, dec* repeat around. (24 sts)
Round 14: *Sc 2, dec* repeat around. (18 sts)

Stuff the body firmly at this point.

Round 15: *Sc 1, dec* repeat around. (12 sts)
Round 16: Dec around. (6 sts)

Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing the head to the body. Close the opening the same way as the head. Set aside.

Ears (Make 2)

Round 1: MR, 6 sc into ring. (6 sts)
Round 2: Inc in each st around. (12 sts)
Rounds 3–10: Sc in each st around. (12 sts, 8 rounds)

Flatten the ear and work 6 sc through both layers to close the bottom. Do not stuff the ears. Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing.

For a two-color ear with a pink or contrasting inner section, make a smaller oval in your contrast color and sew it to the front of the finished ear before attaching it to the head. Alternatively, you can work the first few rounds of the ear in a contrast color and switch to the main color partway through.

Arms (Make 2)

Round 1: MR, 6 sc into ring. (6 sts)
Round 2: Inc in each st around. (12 sts)
Rounds 3–7: Sc in each st around. (12 sts, 5 rounds)
Round 8: *Sc 1, dec* repeat around. (8 sts)

Lightly stuff the arm — just a small pinch of fiberfill to give it shape without making it stiff.

Round 9: Sc in each st around. (8 sts)

Flatten and close with 4 sc through both layers. Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing.

Legs (Make 2)

Round 1: MR, 8 sc into ring. (8 sts)
Round 2: Inc in each st around. (16 sts)
Round 3: Sc in BLO in each st around. (16 sts)
Round 4: Sc in each st around. (16 sts)
Round 5: *Sc 2, dec* 4 times, sc 0. (12 sts)
Round 6: *Sc 1, dec* 4 times. (8 sts)

Stuff the foot section firmly and lightly stuff the leg.

Rounds 7–12: Sc in each st around. (8 sts, 6 rounds)

Flatten and close with 4 sc through both layers. Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing.

Tail

Round 1: MR, 6 sc into ring. (6 sts)
Round 2: Inc in each st around. (12 sts)
Round 3: Sc in each st around. (12 sts)
Round 4: Dec around. (6 sts)

Stuff lightly. Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Close the opening and set aside.

Assembling Your Baby Bunny

Assembly is often where beginners feel the most uncertainty, but take it step by step and it comes together quickly.

Start by sewing the head to the body. Thread the long tail from the body through your yarn needle and use whip stitch to attach the head, working around the full circumference and adding extra stitches to make sure it’s secure. The head should sit slightly forward, which gives the bunny a cute, curious look. Once you’re happy with the position, fasten off and weave in the ends.

Next, position the ears. Fold the base of each ear slightly inward before sewing to create a gentle curve. Place them on top of the head, about 3 to 4 stitches apart, and sew securely using the long tail. The ears can point straight up for a classic look, or you can sew them at a slight angle toward the back for a sleepier, more relaxed expression.

Attach the arms to the sides of the body, roughly at the level of rounds 3 to 4 from the top of the body. Sew them pointing slightly downward and forward.

Position the legs at the base of the body. Because the legs are flattened at the top, they sit naturally against the body and give the bunny a seated posture. Sew them so the feet point forward.

Finally, sew the tail to the back of the body, centered between the legs.

Adding the Face

The face is what brings your bunny to life, and you have a lot of creative freedom here.

If you’re using safety eyes, they should already be attached. If you want to add a nose, use pink embroidery floss or a small length of pink yarn to create a simple Y-shape: one stitch going down from the center point between the eyes, and two stitches going out diagonally from the bottom to form the mouth. Keep it small and simple for a clean look.

Rosy cheeks can be added with a cotton swab and a tiny bit of pink or peach blush powder, rubbed gently onto the yarn. This subtle detail makes the bunny look remarkably lifelike and soft.

Beginner Tips for Amigurumi Success

If this is your first amigurumi, here are a few things that will make the whole process smoother.

Go down a hook size. Most amigurumi patterns recommend using a hook slightly smaller than what the yarn label suggests. This tightens your tension and prevents gaps in the fabric where stuffing shows through. If you can see white fiberfill peeking through your stitches, try a smaller hook or tighten your tension.

Count every round. This is the single most important habit to develop. When your stitch count is off, the piece won’t come out round or symmetrical. Move your stitch marker at the start of every round and count before you move on.

Don’t overstuff or understuff. Finding the right amount of stuffing takes a little practice. Too little and the bunny looks floppy; too much and the seams pull and the shape distorts. Firm but not stretched is the goal.

Use good lighting. Amigurumi stitches can be difficult to see, especially in dark yarn colors. Working in natural light or under a bright lamp makes a real difference.

Be patient with your magic ring. Many beginners struggle with the magic ring at first. If you can’t get it, chain 2 and work your stitches into the second chain from the hook as a substitute — just pull the tail tight to close the hole before you start your next round.

Customizing Your Baby Bunny

One of the most fun parts of amigurumi is that every small choice you make creates a completely different character. Here are some ideas for making your bunny uniquely yours.

Change the colors entirely for a spring rainbow version — soft yellow, lavender, and mint all look gorgeous. Use variegated yarn for a surprising, dappled effect. Add a tiny crocheted bow or collar. Make the bunny in brown or grey yarn for a more realistic look. Scale the pattern up by using bulky yarn and a 5 mm hook to make a larger bunny about twice the size. Embroider tiny paw pads on the feet in a contrasting color.

Frequently Asked Questions

How long does this pattern take to complete?
Most beginners finish in 4 to 6 hours. Experienced crocheters often complete it in 2 to 3 hours.

Is this pattern safe for babies?
If the bunny is for a baby or toddler under three years old, replace safety eyes with embroidered eyes and make sure all pieces are very securely sewn. Always supervise young children with handmade toys.

What if I don’t know how to do a magic ring?
Use the chain-2 substitute described in the beginner tips section above. It works just as well.

Can I sell items made from this pattern?
Yes! This is a free pattern and you’re welcome to sell finished bunnies made from it. If you share your makes online, tagging your post with the pattern source is always appreciated but not required.

My bunny looks lopsided. What went wrong?
Check your stitch count in each round first — this is the most common cause. Also make sure your increases and decreases are evenly spaced. If the count is correct, try repositioning the pieces before sewing; a slight shift in the head angle or ear placement can fix a lot.

A Note on Gifting Your Bunny

Handmade gifts carry something no store-bought toy can — the time, care, and intention of someone who made it specifically for the recipient. A crocheted baby bunny tucked into a gift bag or sitting in a basket lined with tissue paper is an instant keepsake. Many people who receive handmade amigurumi keep them for years, long past childhood.

If you’re giving the bunny as a baby shower gift, consider personal