
Amigurumi Snake Free Pattern: Crochet Your Own Adorable Slithery Friend
If you’ve been searching for a fun, beginner-friendly project to sink your hook into, this amigurumi snake free pattern is exactly what you need. Snakes make some of the most satisfying amigurumi projects out there — their long, flowing bodies are surprisingly easy to work up, and the finished result is undeniably charming. Whether you’re making one for a child, using it as home décor, or gifting it to a reptile enthusiast, this crocheted snake will quickly become one of your favorite makes.
In this post, you’ll find a complete, step-by-step free amigurumi snake pattern, along with material recommendations, helpful tips, and ideas for customizing your snake to make it truly one of a kind. So grab your yarn, your hook, and let’s get started!
Why Amigurumi Snakes Are the Perfect Project
Before we dive into the pattern itself, let’s talk about why snakes are such a fantastic choice for an amigurumi project. Unlike other animals that require assembling multiple limbs, ears, wings, or tails in precise positions, a snake is essentially one long tube with a distinctive head. This makes it wonderfully manageable for beginners who are still getting comfortable with the magic ring and basic increases and decreases.
That said, experienced crocheters love this pattern too, because the long body gives you a chance to experiment with color changes, stripes, and even custom textures. You can make your snake as simple or as elaborate as you like. A quick solid-color version can be finished in an afternoon, while a multicolored, carefully detailed version might be a weekend project you’ll treasure for years.
Amigurumi snakes also tend to be very popular with kids. They’re soft, safe (no hard parts if you use safety eyes carefully or embroider the eyes instead), and endlessly fun to play with. A long stuffed snake also has an almost sculptural quality that makes it a great decorative piece for a shelf or a child’s bedroom.
Materials You’ll Need
To make this amigurumi snake, you’ll want to gather the following supplies before you begin. Having everything on hand before you start means fewer interruptions once you’re in the flow of crocheting.
Yarn: Worsted weight yarn (size 4) works beautifully for this pattern. You can use any brand you love, but yarns with a slight sheen, like Lion Brand Pound of Love or Red Heart Soft, give the finished snake a lovely look. You’ll need a main color for the body, and optionally a contrasting color for the belly or stripes. For a standard-sized snake (approximately 24 to 28 inches long), you’ll use roughly 100 to 150 yards of main color yarn and about 50 yards of contrast color if you’re adding a belly.
Hook: A 3.5mm or 4.0mm crochet hook is ideal for worsted weight yarn when working amigurumi. You want your stitches tight enough that the stuffing doesn’t show through, but not so tight that your hands cramp.
Safety Eyes: Two 9mm or 12mm black safety eyes work perfectly. If you’re making this snake for a child under three years old, embroider the eyes instead using black yarn or embroidery floss for safety.
Polyester Fiberfill: Any standard craft store stuffing works well. Make sure to stuff the snake firmly but not so tightly that it distorts the shape.
Stitch Markers: These are a must for amigurumi. They help you keep track of the beginning of each round so you don’t lose count.
Yarn Needle: You’ll need this for sewing pieces together and weaving in ends.
Scissors: A small, sharp pair is easiest to work with.
Optional: A piece of wire or pipe cleaner inserted into the body before stuffing can make your snake poseable, which kids absolutely love. If you do this, bend the wire ends into small loops first so they don’t poke through the yarn.
Abbreviations Used in This Pattern
This pattern is written in US crochet terms. Here’s a quick reference for the abbreviations you’ll see throughout:
MR — Magic Ring
ch — Chain
sl st — Slip Stitch
sc — Single Crochet
inc — Increase (2 single crochets in the same stitch)
dec — Invisible decrease (insert hook through front loop of next two stitches and single crochet together)
BLO — Back Loop Only
FLO — Front Loop Only
st — Stitch
sts — Stitches
rnd — Round
Pattern Notes
This snake is worked in continuous rounds unless otherwise noted. Do not join at the end of each round — instead, use a stitch marker to mark the first stitch of each round and move it up as you go.
The head is worked first, then the body is worked continuously down from the head. The tongue is made separately and attached at the end.
The finished size will depend on your yarn and hook. With worsted weight yarn and a 3.5mm hook, the finished snake should be approximately 24 to 28 inches long. Using a larger hook or bulkier yarn will make a bigger snake.
Free Amigurumi Snake Pattern
Part One: The Head
Start with your main color yarn.
Round 1: Make a magic ring, sc 6 into the ring. (6 sts)
Round 2: Inc in each st around. (12 sts)
Round 3: [Sc 1, inc] repeat 6 times. (18 sts)
Round 4: [Sc 2, inc] repeat 6 times. (24 sts)
Round 5: [Sc 3, inc] repeat 6 times. (30 sts)
Rounds 6–10: Sc in each st around. (30 sts) — Work 5 rounds even.
This is a good time to attach your safety eyes. Position them between Rounds 6 and 7, approximately 6 stitches apart on either side of the head. If you’re embroidering, mark the placement with pins for now and embroider after the head is complete.
Round 11: [Sc 3, dec] repeat 6 times. (24 sts)
Round 12: [Sc 2, dec] repeat 6 times. (18 sts)
At this point, begin stuffing the head firmly with polyester fiberfill. Continue to add stuffing as you work the neck section.
Round 13: [Sc 1, dec] repeat 6 times. (12 sts)
Round 14: Sc in each st around. (12 sts)
Round 15: [Sc 1, inc] repeat 6 times. (18 sts)
Round 16: [Sc 2, inc] repeat 6 times. (24 sts)
The head is now complete and you’re transitioning into the neck and body.
Part Two: The Body
The body section is where you have the most creative freedom. You’ll work a long tube, continuing to add fiberfill as you go. This is also where you can introduce color changes for stripes or belly coloring.
Rounds 17–20: Sc in each st around. (24 sts) — Work 4 rounds even.
Round 21: [Sc 2, dec] repeat 6 times. (18 sts)
Rounds 22–30: Sc in each st around. (18 sts) — Work 9 rounds even.
Round 31: [Sc 1, dec] repeat 6 times. (12 sts)
Rounds 32–80: Sc in each st around. (12 sts) — Work 49 rounds even.
This long section forms the main body of the snake. Keep stuffing as you go — it’s much easier to stuff gradually than to try to push stuffing all the way down a finished tube. If you’d like a longer snake, simply add more rounds here. Each additional 6 rounds adds approximately 1.5 to 2 inches of length.
Rounds 81–85: [Sc 1, dec] repeat 4 times per round, reducing by 4 stitches each round. (12, 8, 4 sts)
Work the final few stitches as tightly as possible, then cut your yarn leaving a 6-inch tail. Thread the tail onto your yarn needle and weave it through the remaining stitches to close the tip of the tail. Pull tight, knot, and weave in the end.
Part Three: The Tongue
The forked tongue is one of the most charming details of an amigurumi snake, and it’s very simple to make.
Chain 10. In the second chain from the hook, slip stitch 3. This forms the first fork of the tongue. Cut yarn, leaving a tail.
Rejoin yarn at the base of the chain (the 10th chain from the hook end), and work 3 slip stitches up the remaining side of the chain to form the second fork.
Fasten off, leaving a long tail for attaching. Thread the tail onto your yarn needle and sew the tongue to the front of the snake’s head, tucking it slightly under the snout for a natural look. Secure it well with several small stitches and weave in the end.
You can also use red or pink yarn for the tongue if you want it to pop against the main color.
Optional: Belly Stripe
To add a contrasting belly, you can surface embroider a line of chain stitches or slip stitches along the underside of the snake using a contrasting color after the snake is complete. Alternatively, you can switch to a contrast color on the underside of the body during construction by working the bottom stitches of each round in a different color. This requires some attention to keep track of which stitches form the “bottom” of the snake, but the effect is stunning and very realistic-looking.
A simple belly stripe can be made by threading a length of contrast color yarn onto your yarn needle and working a running stitch along the center of the belly from just under the head all the way to the tail. This isn’t technically a crochet technique, but it’s quick, effective, and looks great.
Finishing Touches and Assembly
Once your snake is complete, take a moment to look it over and make any final adjustments. Gently tug on all the seams to make sure everything is secure. If you see any gaps in the fabric where stuffing is visible, you can use your yarn needle to tighten those stitches by pulling the surrounding yarn slightly.
Weave in all yarn ends securely. For amigurumi, it’s worth weaving in ends two or three times in different directions to make sure they don’t work their way out with play and handling.
If you want to give your snake more personality, you can add a few extra embellishments. A tiny dab of blush-colored eye shadow or chalk pastel applied with a cotton swab can give the cheeks a rosy glow. You might also embroider a small smile under the snout using a length of dark yarn.
Tips for Customizing Your Amigurumi Snake
One of the most delightful things about amigurumi is how easy it is to put your own stamp on a pattern. Here are some ideas for making your snake uniquely yours.
Color: The most obvious customization is color. You can make a realistic green or brown snake, a fantastical rainbow serpent, or a spooky Halloween snake in black and orange. There are no rules — let the yarn aisle inspire you.
Size: As mentioned earlier, you can easily adjust the length of this snake by adding or removing rounds from the long body section. A very long snake (50 or more rounds extra) becomes a wonderful draft stopper for doors. A shorter version makes a great keychain or bag charm if worked in fingering weight yarn with a 1.5mm hook.
Stripes: To add stripes, simply switch colors at the beginning of a round (or a few stitches into a round for a diagonal stripe effect). Even simple two-row stripes make a dramatic visual impact.
Scales: If you want a more textured look, you can work portions of the body in the BLO (back loop only) to create a subtle ridge effect that resembles scales. It’s a simple adjustment that adds a lot of visual interest.
Eyes: The shape and size of the eyes dramatically change the personality of your snake. Large eyes give a cute, cartoonish look. Oval or slit-shaped safety eyes give a more dramatic, serpentine feel. You can even use small buttons for eyes on snakes destined for adults.
Rattlesnake Tail: For a rattlesnake version, work a few extra rounds at the tail end in a slightly different color and texture, ending with a few rounds of single crochets worked in a tighter circle to create a subtle rattle shape. You can even place a few plastic beads or a small jingle bell inside the tail before sealing it for an actual rattle sound.
Caring for Your Finished Snake
Because amigurumi toys often end up in the hands of children, it’s worth knowing how to keep your finished snake clean and in good shape.
Most acrylic and acrylic-blend yarns are machine washable on a gentle cycle in cold water. Place your snake inside a mesh laundry bag or pillowcase before washing to protect it. Lay it flat to dry — tumble drying on heat can distort the shape and damage the safety eyes.
If your snake gets a small stain, spot cleaning with a damp cloth and a tiny drop of mild dish soap is usually enough.
For snakes made with wire inside for posing, hand wash only to prevent the wire from shifting or rusting. Pat dry with a towel and air dry completely before storing.
Sharing Your Make
If you make this amigurumi snake, I’d absolutely love to see it! Share your finished photo in the comments below or tag your project on social media. Seeing how different yarn choices and color combinations transform the same pattern is one of the most joyful parts of the crochet community.
Amigurumi patterns like this one are completely free to use for personal projects and for making finished items to sell at craft fairs or in small shops — all I ask is that you don’t copy or republish the written pattern itself without linking back to this page. That keeps free patterns sustainable and helps new crafters find them.
Happy crocheting, and enjoy your new slithery friend!
Frequently Asked Questions
Is this amigurumi snake pattern suitable for beginners? Yes! If you know how to work a magic ring, single crochet, increase, and decrease, you have all the skills you need. The long straight body section is excellent practice for maintaining even tension.
How long does it take to crochet an amigurumi snake? A simple version can be finished in 3 to 5 hours. A more elaborate version with color changes and extra detailing might take 6 to 8 hours spread over a couple of sessions.
Can I sell finished items made from this pattern? Yes, you’re welcome to sell finished snakes made from this pattern. Please credit Free Amigurumi as the pattern source.
What if I want a bigger or smaller snake? Simply adjust your yarn weight and hook size, or add and remove rounds from the body section. The proportions of the head and neck will look great at most sizes.
My snake looks lumpy — what am I doing wrong? Lumpy amigurumi usually comes from uneven stuffing. Make sure you’re stuffing gradually as you work rather than all at once at the end, and use small pieces of fiberfill rather than large clumps.
Whether this is your very first amigurumi or your hundredth, this free snake pattern is a project that delivers a lot of satisfaction for the effort. The simple construction, the endlessly customizable body, and the adorable finished result make it a pattern you’ll come back to again and again. Now pick up your hook and let that yarn slither through your fingers — your amigurumi snake is waiting to be born.