Free Amigurumi Pig Pattern: Cute Crochet Piggy for Beginners and Beyond
If you have been looking for an adorable, squishy amigurumi pig pattern to add to your crochet project list, you have come to exactly the right place. This little piggy is everything you want in an amigurumi — chubby cheeks, a curly tail, a precious snout, and that irresistibly round body that makes you want to squeeze it the moment it’s finished. Whether you are a beginner who has just learned the magic ring or an experienced crocheter looking for a fun afternoon project, this pattern walks you through every step in clear, friendly detail.
Amigurumi pigs are among the most beloved critters in the crochet community, and it is easy to see why. The pig’s naturally round shape translates beautifully into amigurumi form, and there is so much room for personality — pink and rosy, soft lavender, classic farm-fresh colors, or even a galaxy-themed piggy with purple and teal yarn. The possibilities are endless, and the results are always smile-worthy.
So grab your hook, pick your favorite pink yarn, and let’s bring this little oink to life.
Materials You Will Need
Before diving into the pattern itself, let’s talk supplies. One of the best things about amigurumi is that it doesn’t require a huge investment in materials. For this pig, you will need the following:
Yarn: Worsted weight yarn (Category 4) works beautifully for this project and gives you a nice, firm fabric when crocheted tightly. You will need a main color (traditionally a soft pink, like dusty rose or baby pink) and a small amount of a darker or contrasting pink for the snout. If you want to make little hooves, a tiny bit of brown or black yarn comes in handy as well.
Crochet Hook: A 3.5mm to 4.0mm hook is ideal for worsted weight amigurumi. Going down a hook size from what the yarn label recommends is intentional — it creates a tighter stitch that keeps the stuffing from showing through and helps your pig hold its shape.
Polyester Fiberfill: Any craft store brand works fine. You want enough to stuff the body firmly without making it feel rock-hard. A good amigurumi should have a satisfying squish.
Safety Eyes: Two 12mm black safety eyes are the standard choice for a pig this size. If you are making this for a baby or toddler under three years old, skip the safety eyes entirely and embroider eyes using black yarn instead.
Stitch Markers: These are your best friends in amigurumi. Since the pattern is worked in continuous rounds (not joined rounds), you need to mark the beginning of each round so you don’t lose your place.
Yarn Needle: A blunt tapestry needle for sewing pieces together and weaving in ends.
Scissors: Any pair works.
Optional: Blush makeup or chalk pastel for adding rosy cheeks to your finished pig.
Abbreviations and Stitches Used
This pattern uses US crochet terminology.
MR — Magic Ring (also called Magic Circle)
ch — chain
sl st — slip stitch
sc — single crochet
inc — increase (2 single crochets in the same stitch)
dec — invisible decrease (insert hook into front loops of next two stitches and single crochet them together)
st(s) — stitch(es)
BLO — back loop only
FLO — front loop only
R — round
All rounds are worked in continuous spiral unless otherwise noted. Do not join rounds with a slip stitch unless the pattern specifically says to.
Gauge
Gauge matters more in amigurumi than many crocheters realize, because it determines the final size of your project. For this pattern, you are aiming for approximately 4 stitches and 4 rows = 1 inch in single crochet with worsted weight yarn and a 3.75mm hook. Your finished pig will be approximately 5 to 6 inches tall when seated. If your pig comes out larger, try a smaller hook. If it comes out smaller, try going up a hook size.
Let’s Make the Pig: Step-by-Step Pattern
Head
The head is worked from the top down.
R1: MR, 6 sc into ring (6 sts)
R2: Inc in each st around (12 sts)
R3: *Sc 1, inc* repeat around (18 sts)
R4: *Sc 2, inc* repeat around (24 sts)
R5: *Sc 3, inc* repeat around (30 sts)
R6: *Sc 4, inc* repeat around (36 sts)
R7: *Sc 5, inc* repeat around (42 sts)
R8–R14: Sc around all 42 sts (7 rounds even)
R15: *Sc 5, dec* repeat around (36 sts)
R16: *Sc 4, dec* repeat around (30 sts)
Before continuing to decrease, attach your safety eyes between rounds 10 and 11, approximately 8 to 10 stitches apart. This is also the moment to take a breath and really look at your pig’s little face — you will know the eye placement feels right when it gives you that instant happiness.
R17: *Sc 3, dec* repeat around (24 sts)
R18: *Sc 2, dec* repeat around (18 sts)
Begin stuffing the head firmly at this point.
R19: *Sc 1, dec* repeat around (12 sts)
R20: Dec around (6 sts)
Close the opening by fastening off and leaving a short tail. Thread your yarn needle through the front loops of the remaining 6 stitches, pull tight to close, and weave in the end. Set the head aside.
Body
The body is worked from the bottom up.
R1: MR, 6 sc into ring (6 sts)
R2: Inc in each st around (12 sts)
R3: *Sc 1, inc* repeat around (18 sts)
R4: *Sc 2, inc* repeat around (24 sts)
R5: *Sc 3, inc* repeat around (30 sts)
R6: *Sc 4, inc* repeat around (36 sts)
R7: *Sc 5, inc* repeat around (42 sts)
R8–R17: Sc around all 42 sts (10 rounds even)
R18: *Sc 5, dec* repeat around (36 sts)
R19: *Sc 4, dec* repeat around (30 sts)
R20: *Sc 3, dec* repeat around (24 sts)
Begin stuffing the body firmly now, adding more as you close up.
R21: *Sc 2, dec* repeat around (18 sts)
R22: *Sc 1, dec* repeat around (12 sts)
Fasten off, leaving a long tail (about 18 inches) for sewing the head to the body. Do not close the opening yet — this is where you will attach the head.
Snout
The snout gives your pig its most iconic feature, so take a little extra care here.
R1: MR, 6 sc into ring (6 sts)
R2: Inc in each st around (12 sts)
R3: *Sc 1, inc* repeat around (18 sts)
R4: Sc in BLO around (18 sts) — this creates a subtle ridge that makes the snout look dimensional
R5: Sc around all 18 sts
Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Use black yarn or a black embroidery thread to embroider two small oval nostrils on the flat front face of the snout. Position them toward the lower half of the snout, about 3 stitches apart, and make them slightly angled for the most pig-like expression.
Pin the snout to the center of the pig’s face, positioned between rounds 12 and 15, and sew it on using the long yarn tail. Make sure it’s securely attached all the way around.
Ears (Make 2)
R1: MR, 6 sc into ring (6 sts)
R2: Inc in each st around (12 sts)
R3: *Sc 1, inc* repeat around (18 sts)
R4–R5: Sc around all 18 sts
Fasten off, leaving a long tail. Do not stuff the ears. Fold each ear in half with the wrong sides together and flatten it slightly — this gives the ears that cute, floppy pig shape. Sew the ears to the top of the head, above the eyes, angling them slightly outward. Pin them in place and try a few different positions before committing, since ear placement has a huge effect on your pig’s personality.
Arms (Make 2)
R1: MR, 6 sc into ring (6 sts)
R2: Inc in each st around (12 sts)
R3–R10: Sc around all 12 sts (8 rounds even)
Fasten off, leaving a long tail. Lightly stuff the arms — they should be soft but not floppy. Flatten the open end and sew it closed, then attach the arms to the sides of the body, roughly at the level where the body starts to taper toward the top.
Legs (Make 2)
R1: MR, 6 sc into ring (6 sts)
R2: Inc in each st around (12 sts)
R3–R8: Sc around all 12 sts (6 rounds even)
Fasten off, leaving a long tail. Stuff the legs firmly so they can help the pig sit upright. Flatten the open ends and sew them to the bottom front of the body, positioned so your pig can sit in that classic, proud amigurumi pose.
Tail
The tail is one of the most charming details on any amigurumi pig. Here is an easy way to make a sweet curly tail:
Cut a length of yarn about 12 inches long. Thread it through your yarn needle and run it through the yarn loosely twisted around a pencil or thin dowel. Alternatively, crochet a chain of about 15 stitches, then slip stitch back along each chain — this naturally spirals the tail into a perfect curl. Attach the tail to the back of the pig’s body near the top of the bottom curve. Secure it well so it doesn’t pull out with handling.
Assembly
Now comes the satisfying part — putting your pig together. Sew the head to the body using the long tail you left, making sure the face is pointing forward and the head sits evenly. Take your time with this step, as a well-centered head makes all the difference. Work around the entire seam twice if needed to make the join secure.
Attach the ears, arms, legs, snout, and tail as described in their individual sections. Use a yarn needle and matching yarn to close any gaps at the attachment points. When everything is sewn on, weave in all your remaining ends securely.
If you want rosy cheeks, use a cotton swab to dab a tiny amount of pink blush makeup or chalk pastel just below the eyes, outside the snout area. This simple touch adds so much warmth and life to the finished pig.
Tips for the Best Amigurumi Pig
Tension is everything. The single most important technique for beautiful amigurumi is consistent, tight tension. If you can see the stuffing through your stitches, your tension is too loose. Practice on a small swatch before starting the body.
Count every round. It sounds tedious, but miscounting a single stitch in the early rounds will create a noticeable bump or pucker by the time you reach the middle of the piece. A stitch marker at the start of each round and a quick count at the end of each round is the habit that separates beginner amigurumi from polished ones.
Stuff gradually. Don’t wait until the very end to stuff a piece — add fiberfill as you go, especially once you start decreasing. It’s nearly impossible to stuff a nearly-closed piece well, and under-stuffed amigurumi tend to collapse over time.
Block if needed. Amigurumi made from acrylic yarn generally don’t need blocking, but if you are working with cotton or a natural fiber blend and your finished pieces look a bit off, a gentle steam block can smooth things out beautifully.
Customize freely. The pattern above gives you a classic pink pig, but amigurumi is a wonderfully forgiving art form. Try a grey pig with a paler snout, a sparkly yarn for a magical pig, or a miniature version using fingering weight yarn and a 2.0mm hook. Stripe the body in different colors, add a little bow between the ears, or embroider a tiny smile beneath the snout.
Who Is This Pattern For?
This amigurumi pig pattern is beginner-friendly, but with enough details — the dimensional snout, the curly tail, the carefully shaped ears — to keep experienced crocheters engaged. If you can work a magic ring and feel comfortable with increases and decreases, you have everything you need to finish this project successfully.
The finished pig makes a wonderful handmade gift for baby showers, birthdays, and holidays. Because you can choose to embroider the eyes instead of using safety eyes, the pattern is adaptable for little ones of all ages. It also photographs beautifully for anyone who loves sharing their makes on social media or in crochet communities.
Finishing and Caring for Your Pig
Once your pig is complete, it can be gently hand-washed in cool water with a small amount of gentle soap if it ever gets dirty. Press out the excess water without wringing and reshape it, then allow it to air dry completely before it goes back on display or into a child’s hands. Acrylic yarn pigs are especially durable and hold their shape well over time.
Store your finished amigurumi away from direct sunlight to prevent color fading, particularly if you have used a pale pink or pastel yarn.
There is something genuinely joyful about finishing an amigurumi. You started with a ball of yarn and a hook, and now there is a tiny pig sitting in your hand with its little snout and floppy ears and curly tail, looking like it belongs in a storybook. That transformation never gets old, no matter how many pieces you make.
If you try this pattern, enjoy every stitch of the process. Happy crocheting, and happy oinking.
