Amigurumi Pig Free Pattern: A Step-by-Step Guide to Your Cutest Crochet Project Yet
If you’ve been scrolling through crochet communities online and keep seeing those impossibly adorable stuffed pigs with their round little snouts and curly tails, you’ve probably wondered how they’re made. The answer is amigurumi — the Japanese art of crocheting or knitting small stuffed animals and creatures — and today I’m sharing a complete, free amigurumi pig pattern that’s perfect for beginners and experienced crocheters alike.
Whether you want to make a handmade gift, sell your creations at a craft fair, or simply enjoy a relaxing weekend project, this little piggy is going to steal your heart. The pattern uses basic crochet stitches, so if you know how to single crochet, increase, and decrease, you have everything you need to get started.
Let’s dive in.
What Is Amigurumi?
Before we get to the pattern itself, it’s worth taking a moment to appreciate what amigurumi actually is. The word comes from the Japanese words “ami” (knitted or crocheted) and “nuigurumi” (stuffed doll). The style originated in Japan in the mid-20th century and has since become a global craze, beloved by crafters everywhere for its cute aesthetic and satisfying results.
Amigurumi figures are typically worked in continuous rounds rather than rows, which gives them their smooth, seamless look. They’re stuffed with polyfill to create that irresistible squishy quality, and their features are sewn or embroidered on at the end. Pigs are one of the most popular amigurumi designs because their simple, round shapes are forgiving for beginners and endlessly customizable.
Materials You’ll Need
Gathering your supplies before you begin makes the process much smoother. Here’s what you’ll need for this free amigurumi pig pattern.
Yarn: Worsted weight yarn (Category 4) in pink. You’ll need approximately 100–150 yards for the main body. You can also pick up a small amount of dark pink or mauve for the snout and inner ears, and a tiny bit of black or dark brown for the eyes if you’re embroidering them.
Hook: A 3.5mm or 4mm crochet hook. Amigurumi works best with a slightly smaller hook than the yarn label recommends, because tighter stitches prevent the stuffing from showing through.
Safety eyes: Two 9mm or 12mm black safety eyes. These give your pig that classic amigurumi look. If you’re making this pig for a child under three, embroider the eyes with black yarn instead.
Polyfill stuffing: A good handful of polyester fiberfill. Don’t be shy with the stuffing — a well-stuffed amigurumi holds its shape much better.
Stitch marker: To mark the beginning of each round. A small piece of contrasting yarn works perfectly if you don’t have a proper stitch marker.
Yarn needle: For sewing pieces together and weaving in ends.
Scissors: A small, sharp pair.
Optional: A small piece of pipe cleaner for the curly tail, and blush makeup or chalk for adding rosy cheeks.
Abbreviations and Stitches Used
This pattern uses US crochet terminology.
MR — Magic ring (also called magic circle)
ch — Chain
sl st — Slip stitch
sc — Single crochet
inc — Increase (2 single crochets in the same stitch)
dec — Invisible decrease (insert hook through front loops of next 2 stitches, yarn over, pull through both loops, yarn over, pull through remaining 2 loops)
st(s) — Stitch(es)
BLO — Back loop only
FLO — Front loop only
( ) — Work all instructions within parentheses into the same stitch
[ ] x — Repeat instructions in brackets the number of times indicated
Understanding the Pattern Format
Each row in this pattern is written as a round, because amigurumi is worked in continuous spirals rather than joined rounds. At the end of each round, you’ll see the total stitch count in parentheses. This helps you check your work as you go and catch any mistakes early before you’ve worked several more rounds.
For example: Round 5: [sc 4, inc] x 6 (36 sts) means you work 4 single crochets followed by an increase, and repeat that sequence six times around the round, ending with 36 stitches total.
Always use your stitch marker. Place it in the first stitch of each new round and move it up as you work. This tiny habit saves so much frustration.
Free Amigurumi Pig Pattern
Part One: The Body
The body is worked from the bottom up.
Round 1: Start with a magic ring. Work 6 sc into the ring. (6 sts)
Round 2: Inc in each st around. (12 sts)
Round 3: [sc 1, inc] x 6. (18 sts)
Round 4: [sc 2, inc] x 6. (24 sts)
Round 5: [sc 3, inc] x 6. (30 sts)
Round 6: [sc 4, inc] x 6. (36 sts)
Round 7: [sc 5, inc] x 6. (42 sts)
Round 8: [sc 6, inc] x 6. (48 sts)
Rounds 9–18: sc in each st around. (48 sts) — Work 10 rounds even without increasing or decreasing. This creates the barrel-shaped body.
Round 19: [sc 6, dec] x 6. (42 sts)
Round 20: [sc 5, dec] x 6. (36 sts)
At this point, insert your safety eyes between rounds 12 and 13, approximately 8 stitches apart. This is also the time to begin stuffing the body firmly. Continue to add stuffing as you close the top.
Round 21: [sc 4, dec] x 6. (30 sts)
Round 22: [sc 3, dec] x 6. (24 sts)
Round 23: [sc 2, dec] x 6. (18 sts)
Round 24: [sc 1, dec] x 6. (12 sts)
Round 25: dec x 6. (6 sts)
Fasten off, leaving a short tail. Use your yarn needle to weave through the remaining 6 stitches, pull tight to close, and weave in the end securely.
Part Two: The Head
Round 1: MR, 6 sc. (6 sts)
Round 2: Inc in each st around. (12 sts)
Round 3: [sc 1, inc] x 6. (18 sts)
Round 4: [sc 2, inc] x 6. (24 sts)
Round 5: [sc 3, inc] x 6. (30 sts)
Round 6: [sc 4, inc] x 6. (36 sts)
Round 7: [sc 5, inc] x 6. (42 sts)
Round 8: [sc 6, inc] x 6. (48 sts)
Rounds 9–16: sc in each st around. (48 sts)
Round 17: [sc 6, dec] x 6. (42 sts)
Round 18: [sc 5, dec] x 6. (36 sts)
Round 19: [sc 4, dec] x 6. (30 sts)
Insert safety eyes now if you haven’t already, placing them between rounds 11 and 12, roughly 10 stitches apart for a wider, more expressive face. Begin stuffing firmly.
Round 20: [sc 3, dec] x 6. (24 sts)
Round 21: [sc 2, dec] x 6. (18 sts)
Round 22: [sc 1, dec] x 6. (12 sts)
Round 23: dec x 6. (6 sts)
Fasten off and close as before.
Part Three: The Snout
Use your darker pink yarn for this piece if you have it. If not, the same main pink works beautifully.
Round 1: MR, 6 sc. (6 sts)
Round 2: Inc in each st around. (12 sts)
Round 3: [sc 1, inc] x 6. (18 sts)
Round 4: sc in each st around. (18 sts)
Round 5: sc in BLO of each st around. (18 sts) — This creates a small ridge that makes sewing the snout to the face much easier.
Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Lightly stuff the snout before attaching it. Using your yarn needle, embroider two small oval nostrils with a darker yarn or use a small amount of black yarn.
Part Four: The Ears (Make 2)
Ears are worked flat and then folded slightly before sewing.
Round 1: MR, 6 sc. (6 sts)
Round 2: Inc in each st around. (12 sts)
Round 3: [sc 1, inc] x 6. (18 sts)
Round 4: [sc 2, inc] x 6. (24 sts)
Rounds 5–6: sc in each st around. (24 sts)
Fasten off, leaving a long sewing tail. Fold the ear slightly so the edges pinch inward at the base — this gives it that floppy, realistic pig ear shape.
If you want to add an inner ear detail, cut a small oval from craft foam or felt in a darker pink and glue or sew it inside the ear before attaching.
Part Five: The Legs (Make 4)
Round 1: MR, 6 sc. (6 sts)
Round 2: Inc in each st around. (12 sts)
Round 3: [sc 1, inc] x 6. (18 sts)
Round 4: sc in BLO of each st around. (18 sts) — This creates the hoof division line.
Rounds 5–10: sc in each st around. (18 sts)
Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Stuff each leg lightly — you want them firm enough to hold their shape but not so tight that they splay outward.
Part Six: The Tail
This is everyone’s favorite part. The curly tail can be made two ways.
Simple yarn tail: Cut a length of pink yarn about 12 inches long. Thread it through your yarn needle and stitch it to the back of the body. Wrap the remaining yarn tightly around a pencil, then carefully slide it off and allow it to spring into a natural curl. Tack it to the body with a few stitches at the base.
Crocheted chain tail: Make a slip knot and chain 15 stitches. Then work 3 sc into every chain stitch on the way back. This creates a naturally spiraling, tightly curled tail. Fasten off and sew to the back of the body.
Assembling Your Amigurumi Pig
Now comes the satisfying part — putting your pig together. Take your time with assembly, because the positioning of the pieces makes a huge difference to how your finished pig looks and feels.
Start by attaching the head to the body. Using your yarn needle and a length of pink yarn, sew the head to the top front of the body, slightly tilted forward so your pig has that classic forward-leaning amigurumi pose. Work around the entire opening of the head, making sure the attachment is sturdy and even.
Next, position the snout in the center-lower portion of the face. Sew around the BLO ridge you made in Round 5 of the snout. This creates a clean, flat attachment that blends naturally with the face.
Attach the ears at the top of the head, positioned slightly toward the sides. Pinch the base of each ear as you sew to maintain that floppy shape.
For the legs, position two legs on either side of the lower body. They should be placed symmetrically so your pig can sit flat. The back legs typically sit a bit further back and the front legs lean slightly forward.
Finally, sew or attach the tail at the back center of the body, just above the midpoint. If you used the crocheted chain method, give it a little gentle stretch before attaching so the spiral is visible.
Tips for a Beautiful Finish
A few small details take your amigurumi pig from charming to truly professional-looking.
Even tension matters more than speed. The tighter and more consistent your stitches, the smoother and more polished your finished pig will look. If you’re struggling with tension, try going down half a hook size.
The invisible decrease is your best friend. Many beginners use the standard decrease, but it often leaves a small bump or hole. The invisible decrease (worked through the front loops only) creates a much smoother finish, especially important on the head and body.
Stuff firmly, especially the head. An under-stuffed head droops sadly and loses its round shape. Pack in polyfill generously, shaping as you go.
Use blush for rosy cheeks. A tiny swipe of pink craft chalk or blush makeup applied with a cotton swab gives your pig’s cheeks a warm, rosy glow that photographs beautifully and adds tremendous charm.
Embroider a smile. With a length of dark pink or brown yarn and your needle, work a simple curved line just below the snout for an instant personality upgrade.
Customization Ideas
One of the best things about amigurumi is how infinitely customizable each pattern is. Once you’ve made this pig once and feel comfortable with the construction, try some of these variations.
You can make a tiny baby pig by using fingering weight yarn and a 2.5mm hook. The finished pig will be about half the size of the original and utterly irresistible. A mother and piglet set makes a stunning handmade gift.
Try adding a flower crown or tiny bowtie made from scraps of yarn in contrasting colors. A small crocheted flower stitched to one ear transforms your pig into a storybook character.
Experiment with color. Pigs don’t have to be pink — a lavender pig, a white pig with rainbow spots, or a sparkly pig made with glitter yarn are all equally adorable. A pale gray pig with a lighter belly makes a more realistic farmyard version.
For a seasonal variation, add a tiny crocheted Santa hat for Christmas, bunny ears for Easter, or a pointy witch hat for Halloween. The basic body can become a canvas for any holiday or occasion.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can a beginner make this amigurumi pig pattern? Absolutely. This pattern uses only basic stitches — single crochet, increase, and decrease. If you’ve completed any beginner crochet project before, you can make this pig. The most important skill to practice first is the magic ring, which is used to start every piece.
How long does it take to make? Most crafters can complete this pig in a single weekend, or across 3–4 casual evenings. The body and head take the longest; the smaller pieces come together quite quickly once you have the technique down.
What if I can’t do a magic ring? You can substitute a simple chain-2 start and work your first round of sc stitches into the second chain from the hook. Pull the yarn tail to close the small hole before continuing.
Can I sell items made from this free pattern? Yes! You’re welcome to sell finished amigurumi pigs made from this pattern. Please don’t sell or redistribute the pattern itself as your own work, but selling your handmade creations is completely encouraged.
How do I care for a finished amigurumi pig? Gently hand wash in cool water with mild soap, reshape while damp, and allow to air dry. Avoid putting amigurumi in the washing machine, as the agitation can distort the shape and loosen the sewn attachments.
A Few Final Thoughts
Making this little amigurumi pig is one of those projects that reminds you why
