Amigurumi Pig Crochet Free Pattern
If you’ve been searching for a sweet, squishy, and absolutely adorable amigurumi pig crochet free pattern, you’ve landed in exactly the right place. Whether you’re a seasoned crocheter looking for a quick and satisfying project or a beginner just starting to explore the charming world of amigurumi, this pattern has everything you need to create your very own stuffed piggy from scratch — no experience with Japanese plush toys required.
Amigurumi, which is the Japanese art of crocheting or knitting small stuffed animals and creatures, has taken the crafting world by storm over the past two decades. The word itself is a combination of “ami,” meaning crocheted or knitted, and “nuigurumi,” meaning stuffed doll. These little creations are known for their oversized round heads, tiny bodies, and undeniably endearing expressions. And pigs? Well, pigs might just be one of the most beloved amigurumi subjects of all time. There’s something about those little snouts, round bellies, and curly tails that makes people melt.
In this post, we’re going to walk through a complete, free amigurumi pig crochet pattern from start to finish. We’ll cover the materials you’ll need, the stitches used, tips for getting those professional-looking results, and of course the full step-by-step instructions for every single piece of your piggy. By the end, you’ll have a precious little pig you can keep, gift, or even sell at craft fairs.
Let’s dive in.
What You’ll Need Before You Start
Before we get into the pattern itself, let’s make sure you have all your supplies gathered. There’s nothing more frustrating than getting halfway through a project and realizing you’re missing something important.
Yarn: For this pattern, you’ll want a light worsted weight or DK weight yarn in pink. You can use any shade that speaks to you — blush pink, bubblegum pink, dusty rose, or classic baby pink all work beautifully. You’ll also need a small amount of white or cream yarn for the belly area, and a tiny bit of dark brown or black for embroidering the eyes and nose details. If you’d like to give your pig a more realistic look, you could use safety eyes instead, which we’ll discuss below.
Crochet Hook: A 3.0mm to 3.5mm crochet hook is ideal for this pattern. The tighter your gauge, the less the stuffing will show through, which gives you a much neater finished product. Don’t go too much larger than 3.5mm unless you want a bigger pig — and if you do want a larger pig, simply go up a hook size and use a heavier yarn.
Polyester Fiberfill: You’ll need stuffing to give your pig its plump, satisfying shape. Polyester fiberfill is the most commonly used stuffing in amigurumi and is widely available at any craft store or online. Use enough to make the pieces firm but not overly taut — you want them to feel squishy and huggable.
Safety Eyes: If you’re making this pig for a child under three years old, please skip the safety eyes and embroider the eyes instead, as safety eyes can pose a choking hazard for very young children. For older children or adults, 9mm or 12mm black safety eyes work perfectly and give your pig an incredibly cute, glossy look.
Yarn Needle: Also called a tapestry needle or darning needle, you’ll need this to sew all the pieces together and to weave in your ends. Make sure yours has a blunt tip so it doesn’t split your yarn.
Stitch Markers: These are incredibly helpful for keeping track of the beginning of each round, especially since amigurumi is typically worked in a continuous spiral rather than joined rounds. A few locking stitch markers or even a scrap piece of contrasting yarn will do the job.
Scissors: Any pair of craft scissors works fine.
Stitches and Abbreviations Used
This pattern uses standard US crochet terminology. Here’s a quick reference for all the stitches and abbreviations you’ll encounter:
MR — Magic Ring (also called Magic Circle). This is the starting point for most amigurumi rounds and creates a tight, seamless center with no hole.
Ch — Chain
Sl st — Slip Stitch
Sc — Single Crochet
Inc — Increase: work 2 single crochets into the same stitch
Dec — Decrease: invisible decrease (insert hook into front loop only of next two stitches and work as one single crochet). The invisible decrease gives a much tidier result than a standard decrease.
BLO — Back Loop Only
FLO — Front Loop Only
St — Stitch
Rnd — Round
A Note on Gauge and Sizing
The finished pig in this pattern will measure approximately 5 to 6 inches tall when seated, which makes it a lovely palm-sized companion. However, gauge can vary quite a bit from crocheter to crocheter, and that’s completely fine. If your pig comes out smaller or larger than expected, it doesn’t affect the pattern — it just changes the final size. If you want a bigger pig, go up a hook size or two and use a heavier yarn. For a tiny mini pig, try a 2.25mm hook with fingering weight yarn.
The Full Amigurumi Pig Crochet Pattern
Now for the part you’ve been waiting for. We’ll work through each piece of the pig one at a time: the head, the body, the ears, the arms, the legs, and finally that adorable little curly tail.
The Head
The head of an amigurumi pig is its most important feature. It’s round, chubby, and the focal point of all that piggy cuteness.
Rnd 1: Start with a magic ring. Work 6 sc into the ring. Pull ring closed. (6 sts)
Rnd 2: Inc in each st around. (12 sts)
Rnd 3: [Sc 1, inc] repeat 6 times. (18 sts)
Rnd 4: [Sc 2, inc] repeat 6 times. (24 sts)
Rnd 5: [Sc 3, inc] repeat 6 times. (30 sts)
Rnd 6: [Sc 4, inc] repeat 6 times. (36 sts)
Rnd 7: [Sc 5, inc] repeat 6 times. (42 sts)
Rnd 8: [Sc 6, inc] repeat 6 times. (48 sts)
Rnds 9–17: Sc in each st around. (48 sts) — Work these 9 rounds even without any increases or decreases.
Rnd 18: [Sc 6, dec] repeat 6 times. (42 sts)
Rnd 19: [Sc 5, dec] repeat 6 times. (36 sts)
At this point, if you’re using safety eyes, insert them between rounds 13 and 14, approximately 8 to 10 stitches apart. This is also the time to embroider any eye details if you’re going the embroidery route.
Rnd 20: [Sc 4, dec] repeat 6 times. (30 sts)
Rnd 21: [Sc 3, dec] repeat 6 times. (24 sts)
Now begin stuffing the head firmly with fiberfill. Continue stuffing as you work the remaining rounds.
Rnd 22: [Sc 2, dec] repeat 6 times. (18 sts)
Rnd 23: [Sc 1, dec] repeat 6 times. (12 sts)
Rnd 24: Dec 6 times. (6 sts)
Fasten off, leaving a long tail. Use your yarn needle to close the remaining hole by weaving through the front loops of each remaining stitch and pulling tight. Weave in the end.
The Snout
The snout is what really makes this pig look like a pig. It’s a simple flat disc with nostril details.
Rnd 1: Start with a magic ring. Work 6 sc into the ring. (6 sts)
Rnd 2: Inc in each st around. (12 sts)
Rnd 3: [Sc 1, inc] repeat 6 times. (18 sts)
Rnd 4: Sc in BLO of each st around. (18 sts) — This creates a nice defined edge on the bottom of the snout.
Do not stuff the snout. Leave it flat and a little squishy. Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Use a piece of dark yarn or embroidery floss to add two small oval or circular nostrils on the front of the snout. Sew the snout to the center front of the head, roughly over rounds 13 through 16.
The Body
Rnd 1: Magic ring, 6 sc. (6 sts)
Rnd 2: Inc in each st around. (12 sts)
Rnd 3: [Sc 1, inc] repeat 6 times. (18 sts)
Rnd 4: [Sc 2, inc] repeat 6 times. (24 sts)
Rnd 5: [Sc 3, inc] repeat 6 times. (30 sts)
Rnd 6: [Sc 4, inc] repeat 6 times. (36 sts)
Rnds 7–14: Sc in each st around. (36 sts)
Rnd 15: [Sc 4, dec] repeat 6 times. (30 sts)
Rnd 16: [Sc 3, dec] repeat 6 times. (24 sts)
Rnd 17: [Sc 2, dec] repeat 6 times. (18 sts)
Begin stuffing the body firmly now.
Rnd 18: [Sc 1, dec] repeat 6 times. (12 sts)
Rnd 19: Dec 6 times. (6 sts)
Fasten off and close the hole as with the head.
The Ears (Make 2)
The ears are worked flat and folded slightly when sewn on, giving them a natural, floppy look.
Rnd 1: Magic ring, 6 sc. (6 sts)
Rnd 2: Inc in each st around. (12 sts)
Rnd 3: [Sc 1, inc] repeat 6 times. (18 sts)
Rnds 4–6: Sc in each st around. (18 sts)
Rnd 7: [Sc 1, dec] repeat 6 times. (12 sts)
Do not stuff the ears. Flatten them slightly and fasten off, leaving a long tail. Pinch the base of the ear together a little before sewing it onto the head — this creates that floppy, drooping ear shape that makes pigs so irresistible. Sew the ears to the top of the head at approximately round 6 or 7, spaced about 12 stitches apart.
The Arms (Make 2)
Rnd 1: Magic ring, 6 sc. (6 sts)
Rnd 2: Inc in each st around. (12 sts)
Rnds 3–9: Sc in each st around. (12 sts)
Lightly stuff the arms — not too firmly, as they look cuter when they’re a little floppy. Fasten off, leaving a long tail. Flatten the open end slightly and sew closed, then sew onto the upper sides of the body at approximately round 14 or 15.
The Legs (Make 2)
Rnd 1: Magic ring, 6 sc. (6 sts)
Rnd 2: Inc in each st around. (12 sts)
Rnd 3: Sc in BLO of each st around. (12 sts) — This creates a defined “hoof” edge.
Rnds 4–10: Sc in each st around. (12 sts)
Stuff the legs firmly. Fasten off, leaving a long tail. Flatten the open end and sew closed, then sew the legs to the bottom of the body so that your pig can sit upright. Position them at roughly the 4 o’clock and 8 o’clock positions on the base of the body.
The Tail
This is everyone’s favorite part. The little curly tail is made with a simple crochet chain.
Chain 10 to 12 stitches. Work 2 sc into each chain stitch all the way down the chain. This will cause the tail to naturally curl. Fasten off, leaving a tail for sewing. Sew this tiny swirl to the back of the body near the top.
Assembling Your Amigurumi Pig
Now that all the pieces are finished, it’s time to put your pig together. Take your time with assembly — it’s what really makes the finished piece look polished.
Start by attaching the head to the body. Use a long piece of pink yarn and your tapestry needle, sewing in small, even stitches all the way around where the head and body meet. Before closing, add a small pinch of extra stuffing through the seam to make sure the neck area is nice and firm.
Next, sew the snout to the center front of the face if you haven’t done so already. Then attach the ears to the top of the head, pinching the base of each one slightly before stitching them down so they flop forward naturally.
Sew the arms to the upper sides of the body, positioning them so they point slightly forward. Attach the legs to the base of the body so the pig sits in a stable, upright position. Finally, add the curly tail to the back of the body.
Step back and admire your work. You’ve made a pig.
Finishing Touches and Customization Ideas
The basic pattern gives you a sweet, classic amigurumi pig, but there are so many ways to make yours uniquely your own. Here are a few ideas to inspire you.
You can give your pig rosy cheeks by using a small amount of pink blush or eyeshadow, applied with a cotton swab in circular motions on the cheeks. This gives your pig a sweet, blushing expression that photographs beautifully.
Consider adding a tiny bow or flower to one of the ears for a feminine touch, or a miniature chef’s hat or tiny scarf to give your pig a personality. A small crocheted accessory can transform a simple piggy into a storytelling character.
If you want to try color variations, a brown or grey pig becomes a wild boar, and a white pig with pink ears has a lovely farmyard realism to it. You could even go completely whimsical and make a blue, purple, or rainbow striped pig for a truly unique gift.
For a mama and baby pig set, simply make one pig with a 4.0mm hook and worsted weight yarn, and a second tiny pig with a 2.5mm hook and fingering weight yarn. Together they make a precious paired gift for baby showers or new mothers.
Tips for Amigurumi Beginners
If this is one of your first amigurumi projects, a few practical tips can make the whole experience much smoother.
Always use a stitch marker at the beginning of each round. Since amigurumi is worked in a continuous spiral, it’s very easy to lose track of where one round ends and the next begins without a marker.
Work with a slightly tighter tension than you normally would. The goal is to have no gaps between stitches so that the stuffing doesn’t show through. If you find your stitches are too loose, try going down half a hook size.
The invisible decrease is worth learning before you start. It creates a much smoother, neater finish than the standard decrease, and once you try it, you’ll never go back.
Don’t rush the stuffing. Add fiberfill gradually as you close each piece rather than trying to stuff everything at the very end. Make sure corners and curved areas are well-filled so the finished piece has a smooth, even shape.
Take your time with sewing the pieces together. A well-assembled amigurumi looks far more professional than a hastily stit
