Amigurumi Panda Free Crochet Pattern: Make Your Own Adorable Stuffed Panda Bear
If you’ve ever fallen in love with the chubby, round little stuffed animals filling the shelves of craft fairs and online shops, you already know what amigurumi is — even if you didn’t have a name for it. Amigurumi is the Japanese art of crocheting small, stuffed yarn creatures, and it has become one of the most beloved niches in the crochet world. Among all the animals you can make, the panda is an absolute fan favorite. With its iconic black and white coloring and impossibly cute face, an amigurumi panda is the perfect project whether you’re a beginner looking to try something new or an experienced crocheter wanting a satisfying afternoon make.
In this post, I’m sharing a complete, free amigurumi panda crochet pattern that you can work through at your own pace. I’ll walk you through the materials you’ll need, explain the stitches used, and give you detailed, round-by-round instructions for every part of the panda — from the round little body to the tiny ears. By the end, you’ll have a finished panda you’ll be proud to display, gift, or sell at your next craft fair.
What Is Amigurumi and Why Pandas?
Amigurumi (編みぐるみ) literally translates to “knitted stuffed toy” in Japanese, though today the term broadly covers crocheted versions too. The style is characterized by oversized heads, tiny limbs, and an overall kawaii (cute) aesthetic. Amigurumi creatures are worked mostly in the round, often using a magic ring to start, and are stuffed with polyester fiberfill to give them their chubby, squeezable shape.
The panda has become one of the most popular amigurumi subjects for a very simple reason: the contrast of black and white yarn makes the animal instantly recognizable, and the round, simple shapes of a panda’s body translate perfectly into amigurumi form. Even a beginner can crochet a convincing panda because the eye patches, ears, and limbs do most of the visual work. There’s no complicated striping or color blending — just two colors, some safety eyes, and a bit of assembly.
Materials You Will Need
Before you start, gather everything on this list. Having your supplies ready before you begin will make the process much smoother.
Yarn: Worsted weight (size 4) yarn in white and black. You won’t need enormous amounts — one small skein of each color is more than enough for a panda that stands roughly 6 to 7 inches tall. Popular affordable options include Lion Brand Pound of Love, Red Heart Super Saver, or Paintbox Simply DK if you prefer a slightly lighter weight.
Hook: A 3.5mm or 3.75mm crochet hook. Using a hook slightly smaller than what the yarn label recommends helps create a tighter fabric so the stuffing doesn’t show through.
Safety eyes: Two 9mm or 12mm black safety eyes. These are available at most craft stores and online. If you’re making this panda for a child under three years old, skip the safety eyes entirely and embroider the eyes with black yarn instead.
Polyester fiberfill: One bag of standard craft stuffing. You’ll use more than you expect, so don’t be stingy — a well-stuffed amigurumi holds its shape much better.
Yarn needle: For sewing the pieces together and weaving in ends.
Stitch marker: To mark the beginning of each round. You can use a commercial stitch marker, a small piece of scrap yarn, or even a paper clip.
Scissors.
Abbreviations and Stitches Used
This pattern is written in US crochet terminology. Here’s a quick reference for every abbreviation you’ll encounter.
MR — Magic ring
ch — Chain
sl st — Slip stitch
sc — Single crochet
inc — Increase (2 single crochets in the same stitch)
dec — Invisible decrease (insert hook into the front loop of the next two stitches and single crochet them together)
BLO — Back loop only
st — Stitch
rnd — Round
This pattern uses only single crochet stitches, so if you know how to single crochet, you already know every stitch you need.
Gauge and Finished Size
Gauge: 5 sc x 5 rows = 1 inch using a 3.5mm hook and worsted weight yarn.
Finished size: Approximately 6.5 inches tall when assembled and stuffed.
Gauge matters in amigurumi less for sizing and more for fabric density. As long as your stitches are tight enough that you can’t see the stuffing through them, you’re good to go.
Part One: The Body
Start with white yarn.
Rnd 1: MR, 6 sc into the ring. (6 sts)
Rnd 2: Inc in each st around. (12 sts)
Rnd 3: [Sc 1, inc] repeat 6 times. (18 sts)
Rnd 4: [Sc 2, inc] repeat 6 times. (24 sts)
Rnd 5: [Sc 3, inc] repeat 6 times. (30 sts)
Rnd 6: [Sc 4, inc] repeat 6 times. (36 sts)
Rnd 7: [Sc 5, inc] repeat 6 times. (42 sts)
Rnd 8–15: Sc around all sts for 8 rounds. (42 sts)
Rnd 16: [Sc 5, dec] repeat 6 times. (36 sts)
Rnd 17: [Sc 4, dec] repeat 6 times. (30 sts)
Rnd 18: [Sc 3, dec] repeat 6 times. (24 sts)
Stuff the body firmly with fiberfill now. Continue stuffing as you close the piece.
Rnd 19: [Sc 2, dec] repeat 6 times. (18 sts)
Rnd 20: [Sc 1, dec] repeat 6 times. (12 sts)
Rnd 21: Dec 6 times. (6 sts)
Fasten off, leaving a short tail. Use your yarn needle to close the remaining hole by weaving through the front loops of the last 6 stitches and pulling tight.
Part Two: The Head
Start with white yarn.
Rnd 1: MR, 6 sc into the ring. (6 sts)
Rnd 2: Inc in each st around. (12 sts)
Rnd 3: [Sc 1, inc] repeat 6 times. (18 sts)
Rnd 4: [Sc 2, inc] repeat 6 times. (24 sts)
Rnd 5: [Sc 3, inc] repeat 6 times. (30 sts)
Rnd 6: [Sc 4, inc] repeat 6 times. (36 sts)
Rnd 7: [Sc 5, inc] repeat 6 times. (42 sts)
Rnd 8: [Sc 6, inc] repeat 6 times. (48 sts)
Rnd 9–16: Sc around all sts for 8 rounds. (48 sts)
Rnd 17: [Sc 6, dec] repeat 6 times. (42 sts)
Rnd 18: [Sc 5, dec] repeat 6 times. (36 sts)
Before you close up the head any further, this is the time to attach the safety eyes and the eye patches. See the eye patch instructions in Part Four below, and position them now while you still have easy access to the inside of the head.
Rnd 19: [Sc 4, dec] repeat 6 times. (30 sts)
Rnd 20: [Sc 3, dec] repeat 6 times. (24 sts)
Stuff the head very firmly. The head should feel quite round and hold its shape without being misshapen.
Rnd 21: [Sc 2, dec] repeat 6 times. (18 sts)
Rnd 22: [Sc 1, dec] repeat 6 times. (12 sts)
Rnd 23: Dec 6 times. (6 sts)
Close off as you did the body.
Part Three: The Ears (Make Two)
Use black yarn.
Rnd 1: MR, 6 sc. (6 sts)
Rnd 2: Inc in each st around. (12 sts)
Rnd 3: [Sc 1, inc] repeat 6 times. (18 sts)
Rnd 4: Sc around all sts. (18 sts)
Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. The ears are not stuffed — they’re flat little rounds that sit on top of the head.
Part Four: The Eye Patches (Make Two)
The eye patches are what give your panda its distinctive look. Use black yarn.
Rnd 1: MR, 6 sc. (6 sts)
Rnd 2: Inc in each st around. (12 sts)
Rnd 3: [Sc 1, inc] repeat 6 times. (18 sts)
Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing.
Position each eye patch on the front of the head before you’ve fully closed it. They should sit slightly above the center of the face, roughly symmetrically on either side. Once you’re happy with placement, use the yarn tail to sew each patch flat against the head with small whip stitches around the edge. Then push your safety eye post through both the patch and the head piece, and secure the washer on the inside before stuffing.
Part Five: The Arms (Make Two)
Use black yarn for the first few rounds (the “hands”), then switch to white.
Rnd 1: MR, 6 sc. (6 sts)
Rnd 2: Inc in each st around. (12 sts)
Rnd 3–4: Sc around. (12 sts)
Switch to white yarn.
Rnd 5–12: Sc around for 8 rounds. (12 sts)
Lightly stuff the arms — they should be a little floppy rather than rigid, which gives the finished panda a more natural pose. Flatten the open end of each arm and close it with 6 sc through both layers. Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing.
Part Six: The Legs (Make Two)
Use black yarn.
Rnd 1: MR, 6 sc. (6 sts)
Rnd 2: Inc in each st around. (12 sts)
Rnd 3: [Sc 1, inc] repeat 6 times. (18 sts)
Rnd 4–5: Sc around. (18 sts)
Switch to white yarn.
Rnd 6: BLO, sc around. (18 sts)
Rnd 7–12: Sc around for 6 rounds. (18 sts)
Rnd 13: [Sc 1, dec] repeat 6 times. (12 sts)
Stuff the legs firmly. Close with 6 sc through both layers. Fasten off, leaving a long tail.
Part Seven: The Muzzle
Use white yarn.
Rnd 1: MR, 6 sc. (6 sts)
Rnd 2: Inc in each st around. (12 sts)
Rnd 3: [Sc 1, inc] repeat 6 times. (18 sts)
Rnd 4: [Sc 2, inc] repeat 6 times. (24 sts)
Rnd 5: Sc around all sts. (24 sts)
Fasten off, leaving a long tail. Don’t stuff the muzzle — just sew it flat onto the lower center of the face, below the eye patches. Once it’s sewn on, use black yarn and a yarn needle to embroider a small nose at the top of the muzzle and a simple curved smile below it.
Assembling Your Amigurumi Panda
This is the step that brings everything together, and taking your time here is really worth it. Good assembly makes the difference between a panda that looks professional and one that looks a bit lopsided.
Start by attaching the head to the body. Thread a long strand of the yarn tail from the head onto your yarn needle and pin the head to the top of the body, positioning it slightly toward the front so your panda has a slight forward tilt — this makes it look more natural and endearing. Sew all the way around with small, even stitches, then weave in the end securely.
Next, attach the ears. Position them at the top of the head, about one-third of the way in from each side. Sew them flat against the head with the yarn tails.
Sew the arms to either side of the body, about two rounds down from the neck join. Position them so they point slightly forward and downward.
Sew the legs to the bottom of the body. You can angle them slightly outward so the panda sits stably on its own.
Finally, if you haven’t already, sew on the muzzle and embroider the nose and mouth.
Tips for the Best Results
A few things I’ve learned from making many amigurumi pieces over the years are worth passing along here.
Stuff as you go rather than all at once. It’s much easier to stuff a piece when there’s still a large enough opening to work with. For the head especially, try to add stuffing incrementally every few decrease rounds.
Use a chopstick or the eraser end of a pencil to push stuffing into small spaces like the tips of ears and the ends of arms. It helps you get an even, firm fill without distorting the shape.
Don’t rush the assembly. Pinning your pieces with sewing pins or holding them in place with stitch markers before sewing helps you check symmetry before committing. Step back and look at your panda from a few feet away to make sure everything lines up correctly.
When working the invisible decrease (dec), always insert your hook into the front loops only of the next two stitches. This makes the decrease much neater and prevents those little bumps you might see with a regular decrease.
If your white yarn looks a little dingy next to bright black, a gentle hand wash and dry before you begin can help both yarns look their best in the finished piece.
Customizing Your Panda
One of the most enjoyable parts of amigurumi is how easily you can personalize a pattern. Once you’ve finished your basic panda, consider a few simple customizations.
You can add a tiny scarf by chaining 60 stitches in a contrasting color and single crocheting back along the chain, then wrapping it around your panda’s neck and tying a small knot. A little red or green scarf makes a wonderful holiday gift variation.
Embroidering small rosy cheeks below the eye patches using pink yarn is a very popular finishing touch that adds a lot of warmth and personality to the face.
If you want a larger panda — perhaps for a young child — simply go up one hook size and use bulky weight yarn. The proportions of the pattern will stay the same, and you’ll end up with a panda roughly twice the size.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can a complete beginner make this pattern? Yes. If you know how to single crochet and work in the round, you have all the skills needed. The magic ring is worth learning if you haven’t yet — there are many excellent short video tutorials online that show it very clearly.
How long does it take? Most crocheters finish this panda in three to five hours total, spread across one or two sessions. The head and body take the longest; the smaller pieces go quickly.
Can I sell items made from this pattern? Yes, items made from this free pattern may be sold. A small credit or link back is always appreciated but not required.
What if I can’t find worsted weight yarn in the right colors? Any yarn weight can work — just pair it with an appropriately sized hook and adjust your expectations for the finished size. The key is keeping your stitch tension tight regardless of the weight you choose.
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