Amigurumi Mouse Crochet Free Pattern

If you’ve been looking for the perfect beginner-friendly amigurumi project, this adorable little mouse might be exactly what you need. Amigurumi, the Japanese art of crocheting small stuffed animals and creatures, has taken the crafting world by storm, and for good reason. These tiny, round-bodied characters are irresistibly charming, surprisingly portable to work on, and incredibly satisfying to finish. A mouse is one of the most classic amigurumi designs you’ll find, and this free pattern will walk you through every stitch, from the tip of its little nose to the end of its long tail.

Whether you’re brand new to amigurumi or you’ve made a dozen of them already, this pattern is written with clarity in mind. We’ll cover everything: the materials you’ll need, the basic stitches involved, helpful tips for getting that perfectly round shape, and the full step-by-step instructions for crocheting your mouse from start to finish. By the end, you’ll have a sweet little mouse that makes a wonderful gift, a stuffed toy for a child, or simply a delightful addition to your growing amigurumi collection.

What Is Amigurumi and Why Is It So Popular?

Amigurumi (編み包み) literally translates to “knitted stuffed toy” in Japanese, though in practice it almost always refers to crocheted figures rather than knitted ones. The style originated in Japan and became widely popular in the mid-2000s when crafters started sharing their patterns online. Since then, it has grown into a global phenomenon with millions of makers around the world.

The appeal is easy to understand. Amigurumi projects are generally small, which means they don’t require a huge investment of time or yarn. They’re made using simple, repetitive crochet stitches, primarily the single crochet, worked in continuous rounds. The resulting fabric is tight and even, which holds stuffing beautifully and gives each creature that distinctive round, plush look.

Mice are a perennial favorite in the amigurumi world because they’re simple in shape yet endlessly customizable. You can dress them up, change their colors, add tiny accessories, or make a whole family of them in different sizes. The basic structure — a round body, a pointed-ish head, two round ears, four little limbs, and a long tail — is easy to adapt once you understand the fundamentals.

Materials You Will Need

Before you begin, gather everything on this list so you don’t have to pause mid-project. Nothing here is hard to find, and most of it you may already have in your craft supplies.

Yarn: You’ll need a small amount of worsted weight yarn (size 4) in your chosen mouse color. Gray is the classic choice, but brown, white, lavender, and even pink are all wonderful options. You’ll also want a small amount of a contrasting color for the inner ears (usually a light pink), and a bit of black or dark yarn for the nose and eye accents if you’re not using safety eyes.

Hook: A 3.5mm or 4.0mm crochet hook works perfectly with worsted weight yarn for amigurumi. You want the stitches to be tight enough that the stuffing doesn’t show through, so going down a hook size from what the yarn label suggests is completely normal and intentional.

Safety eyes: Two 9mm or 12mm black safety eyes give your mouse that classic, glossy amigurumi look. If you’re making this mouse for a child under three years old, embroider the eyes with black yarn instead, as safety eyes can be a choking hazard for very young children.

Polyfill stuffing: A small bag of polyester fiberfill stuffing is all you need. You won’t use much for a mouse this size, but having a dedicated bag of it on hand is a great investment for any amigurumi crafter.

Yarn needle: Also called a tapestry needle or darning needle, this blunt-tipped needle is what you’ll use to sew the parts together and weave in your ends.

Stitch markers: These little clips or loops mark your place in the round so you always know where one round ends and the next begins. If you don’t have official stitch markers, a small piece of yarn in a contrasting color works just as well.

Scissors: A sharp pair of scissors for cutting yarn cleanly.

Optional: Wire, pipe cleaners, or chenille stems if you’d like to make a poseable tail, and a small piece of pink felt or embroidery floss for embroidering the nose.

Abbreviations and Stitches Used

This pattern is written using US crochet terminology. Here are the abbreviations you’ll encounter throughout:

MR – Magic ring (also called a magic circle)
ch – Chain
sl st – Slip stitch
sc – Single crochet
inc – Increase (two single crochets in the same stitch)
dec – Invisible decrease (insert hook into front loops of next two stitches and complete as one single crochet)
st(s) – Stitch(es)
rnd – Round
BLO – Back loop only
FLO – Front loop only
[x] – Repeat what is inside the brackets the number of times indicated

If you’ve never made a magic ring before, don’t worry. It’s one of those techniques that feels awkward the first time and then immediately becomes second nature. The magic ring creates a tight, closed center for your circles so you don’t end up with a little hole in the middle of your piece. There are dozens of video tutorials available online if you’d like to see it demonstrated before you start.

Gauge and Finished Size

Using worsted weight yarn and a 3.5mm hook, the finished mouse measures approximately 10 to 12 centimeters (about 4 to 4.5 inches) tall when sitting, not including the tail. Gauge is not critical for amigurumi the way it is for garments, but you do want your stitches to be tight and even so the stuffing stays hidden inside.

The Pattern

Body

The body is worked from the bottom up in continuous rounds. Do not join rounds or chain at the beginning of each round. Use a stitch marker to keep track of where each round begins.

Rnd 1: MR, 6 sc into ring (6 sts)
Rnd 2: Inc in each st around (12 sts)
Rnd 3: [Sc 1, inc] repeat around (18 sts)
Rnd 4: [Sc 2, inc] repeat around (24 sts)
Rnd 5: [Sc 3, inc] repeat around (30 sts)
Rnd 6: [Sc 4, inc] repeat around (36 sts)
Rnd 7: [Sc 5, inc] repeat around (42 sts)
Rnd 8: Sc around (42 sts)
Rnd 9: Sc around (42 sts)
Rnd 10: Sc around (42 sts)
Rnd 11: Sc around (42 sts)
Rnd 12: Sc around (42 sts)
Rnd 13: [Sc 5, dec] repeat around (36 sts)
Rnd 14: [Sc 4, dec] repeat around (30 sts)
Rnd 15: [Sc 3, dec] repeat around (24 sts)

At this point, begin stuffing the body firmly. Continue stuffing as you close the remaining rounds.

Rnd 16: [Sc 2, dec] repeat around (18 sts)
Rnd 17: [Sc 1, dec] repeat around (12 sts)
Rnd 18: [Dec] repeat around (6 sts)

Fasten off, leaving a long tail. Use your yarn needle to close the remaining opening by weaving through the front loops of the 6 remaining stitches and pulling tight. Weave in your end securely.

Head

The head is worked the same way as the body but is made slightly larger at its widest point and then tapered more at the front to give the mouse its distinctive snout.

Rnd 1: MR, 6 sc into ring (6 sts)
Rnd 2: Inc in each st around (12 sts)
Rnd 3: [Sc 1, inc] repeat around (18 sts)
Rnd 4: [Sc 2, inc] repeat around (24 sts)
Rnd 5: [Sc 3, inc] repeat around (30 sts)
Rnd 6: [Sc 4, inc] repeat around (36 sts)
Rnd 7: Sc around (36 sts)
Rnd 8: Sc around (36 sts)
Rnd 9: Sc around (36 sts)
Rnd 10: Sc around (36 sts)
Rnd 11: [Sc 4, dec] repeat around (30 sts)
Rnd 12: [Sc 3, dec] repeat around (24 sts)

At this point, attach your safety eyes between rounds 8 and 9, with about 6 to 8 stitches between them. If embroidering eyes, do this after closing the head entirely.

Rnd 13: [Sc 2, dec] repeat around (18 sts)

Begin stuffing the head firmly now.

Rnd 14: [Sc 1, dec] repeat around (12 sts)
Rnd 15: [Dec] repeat around (6 sts)

Fasten off and close as with the body. Leave a long tail for sewing the head to the body.

Ears (Make 2)

Each ear is made of two parts: an outer ear in your main mouse color and an inner ear in pink. They are then crocheted or sewn together.

Outer Ear (make 2 in main color):
Rnd 1: MR, 6 sc (6 sts)
Rnd 2: Inc in each st (12 sts)
Rnd 3: [Sc 1, inc] repeat around (18 sts)
Rnd 4: Sc around (18 sts)
Fasten off, leaving a long tail.

Inner Ear (make 2 in pink):
Rnd 1: MR, 6 sc (6 sts)
Rnd 2: Inc in each st (12 sts)
Rnd 3: [Sc 1, inc] repeat around (18 sts)
Fasten off, leaving a long tail.

Place one inner ear on top of one outer ear (wrong sides together) and use your yarn needle and the pink tail to whipstitch around the edge, joining them together. Flatten slightly so the ear has a slight concave shape on the pink side. Repeat for the second ear.

Arms (Make 2)

Rnd 1: MR, 6 sc (6 sts)
Rnd 2: Inc in each st (12 sts)
Rnd 3 to 8: Sc around (12 sts per round)

Stuff lightly — the arms look best when they’re a little floppy and not packed too full.

Rnd 9: [Dec] repeat around (6 sts)

Fasten off and close. Leave a long tail for sewing.

Legs (Make 2)

Rnd 1: MR, 6 sc (6 sts)
Rnd 2: Inc in each st (12 sts)
Rnd 3: [Sc 1, inc] repeat around (18 sts)
Rnd 4 to 6: Sc around (18 sts per round)
Rnd 7: [Sc 1, dec] repeat around (12 sts)
Rnd 8 to 12: Sc around (12 sts per round)

Stuff the foot and lower leg firmly.

Rnd 13: [Dec] repeat around (6 sts)

Fasten off and close. Leave a long tail for sewing.

Tail

Cut a length of yarn about 25 to 30 centimeters long (approximately 10 to 12 inches). For a more polished tail, you can make a crochet chain of 20 to 25 chains and fasten off, leaving tails on both ends to attach and finish. Alternatively, use a length of thin ribbon, cord, or twist several strands of yarn together and braid them for a thicker, textured tail. If you want a poseable tail, thread your yarn or crochet chain onto a pipe cleaner before attaching.

Assembly

Assembly is the most satisfying part of any amigurumi project. This is where your little pile of crocheted pieces transforms into an actual mouse.

Start by attaching the head to the body. Position the head so that the front (where you placed the eyes) faces forward and upward slightly. Thread your yarn needle with the long tail from the head piece and use a ladder stitch or whipstitch to sew the head securely to the top of the body. Go around the attachment point twice to make sure it’s nice and firm.

Next, sew the ears to the top of the head. Position them so they sit symmetrically, roughly over rounds 2 to 4 from the top of the head, with the pink side facing forward. Pin them in place before sewing if you like, which makes it much easier to get them even. Sew around the flat base of each ear securely.

Attach the arms to either side of the body at about the level where the head meets the body. They should hang naturally downward with a slight forward angle. The legs attach at the bottom sides of the body, pointing downward.

Attach the tail at the very bottom back of the body, threading it through a couple of stitches and knotting securely before weaving in the end.

Finally, embroider the nose. Using a small length of black yarn or dark pink embroidery floss, make a small triangular or oval shaped nose at the very front center of the head, just below the midpoint. A few straight stitches gathered into a small oval shape look adorable. You can also use a tiny felt circle in pink or black and stitch it in place.

Tips for the Best Results

Making your stitches tight is the single most important thing you can do for a neat amigurumi. If you can see the stuffing peeking through, try going down half a hook size.

Stuff as you go rather than waiting until you’ve closed the piece entirely. It’s much easier to get an even, firm stuffing this way, and you avoid the frustration of trying to push stuffing through a tiny opening at the end.

Use a stitch marker religiously, especially when you’re new to working in the round. It’s very easy to lose track of where your round begins, and even a few missed stitches will throw off your stitch count noticeably.

The invisible decrease (dec as written in this pattern) makes a huge difference in the smoothness of your work compared to a standard decrease. It creates a much flatter, less bumpy surface that makes your amigurumi look professionally made.

Take your time with assembly. The sewing-together stage is what many beginners rush, and it shows. Use pins to position your pieces, step back and look at your mouse from different angles, and adjust before committing to stitches.

Variations and Customizations

One of the greatest joys of amigurumi is how endlessly adaptable each pattern is. Once you’ve made your basic mouse, consider some of these fun variations.

You could make a whole family of mice in different sizes by simply using different yarn weights and corresponding hook sizes. Fingering weight yarn on a 2mm hook makes a tiny mouse about 5cm tall, while bulky yarn on a 6mm hook creates a large, snuggly version you could use as a pillow.

Dressing your mouse is another delightful rabbit hole (mouse hole?) to fall into. A tiny crocheted scarf, a woven fabric dress, or even a little felt hat transforms your mouse from a simple stuffed toy into a character with personality. Search for “amigurumi mouse outfit crochet pattern” to find dozens of free accessories designed to fit figures of this size.

You can also change the face entirely. Sleepy eyes (two short horizontal lines of black embroidery floss with a curve above each one) give your mouse a peaceful, dreamy expression. Winking eyes, heart-shaped noses, or little embroidered smiles are all variations that are easy to add.

For a truly personalized mouse, consider adding a name embroidered onto the chest, or