Amigurumi Cute Pig Free Pattern: Your Complete Guide to Crocheting an Adorable Piggy
If you’ve been searching for a free amigurumi pig pattern that is beginner-friendly, detailed, and absolutely adorable, you’ve landed in exactly the right place. This amigurumi cute pig free pattern walks you through every single step of creating a chubby, round little piggy that you’ll want to make over and over again. Whether you’re gifting it to a child, displaying it on a shelf, or simply enjoying the meditative rhythm of crochet, this little pig is sure to bring a smile to anyone who sees it.
Amigurumi — the Japanese art of crocheting or knitting small stuffed animals and fantasy creatures — has taken the crafting world by storm for good reason. The results are endlessly charming, the materials are inexpensive, and even a relatively new crocheter can produce something that looks truly professional with the right pattern. This free amigurumi pig pattern is designed with that accessibility in mind. It uses basic stitches, a standard hook size, and easy-to-find materials. By the time you’re done reading, you’ll have everything you need to start crocheting your very own cute little pig today.
Materials You Will Need
Before diving into the pattern itself, let’s gather everything you’ll need. Having your supplies ready before you begin will make the whole process smoother and more enjoyable.
Yarn: For the body, you’ll want a light worsted weight (category 3) or worsted weight (category 4) yarn in a soft pink color. A blush pink or baby pink works beautifully for that classic piggy look. You’ll also need a small amount of dark pink or rose for the snout and inner ears, and black for the eyes if you’re using yarn rather than safety eyes.
Hook: A 3.5mm crochet hook works well with category 3 yarn, while a 4mm hook pairs nicely with category 4. Always go with what gives you a tight, even tension so the stuffing won’t show through.
Safety eyes: Two 9mm or 12mm black safety eyes. These give your pig that classic amigurumi look. If you’re making this for a child under three, embroider the eyes with black yarn instead, as safety eyes can be a choking hazard.
Fiberfill stuffing: A good quality polyester fiberfill keeps your pig plump and cuddly.
Yarn needle: For sewing pieces together and weaving in ends.
Stitch markers: Optional but incredibly helpful for keeping track of rounds.
Scissors: A small, sharp pair works best for clean cuts close to the work.
Pink felt or craft foam (optional): For the rosy cheeks, you can cut small ovals from felt and glue them on, or you can blush the cheeks using a cotton swab and a little pink chalk or cosmetic blush.
Abbreviations and Stitches Used
This pattern uses US crochet terminology. Here’s a quick reference for the abbreviations you’ll see throughout:
MR — Magic ring (also called magic circle)
ch — chain
sl st — slip stitch
sc — single crochet
inc — increase (two single crochets in the same stitch)
dec — decrease (invisible decrease: insert hook through front loops of next two stitches, yarn over and pull through both loops, yarn over and pull through remaining two loops)
BLO — back loop only
st — stitch
rnd — round
All rounds are worked in continuous spiral unless otherwise noted. Do not join rounds unless specifically instructed. Use a stitch marker to keep track of the beginning of each round.
Pattern: Amigurumi Cute Pig
The Head
The head is the largest piece and the star of the show, so take your time with it and make sure your tension is consistent throughout.
Rnd 1: Start with a magic ring, sc 6 into the ring. (6 sts)
Rnd 2: Inc in each st around. (12 sts)
Rnd 3: *Sc 1, inc* repeat around. (18 sts)
Rnd 4: *Sc 2, inc* repeat around. (24 sts)
Rnd 5: *Sc 3, inc* repeat around. (30 sts)
Rnd 6: *Sc 4, inc* repeat around. (36 sts)
Rnd 7: *Sc 5, inc* repeat around. (42 sts)
Rnd 8: *Sc 6, inc* repeat around. (48 sts)
Rnds 9–16: Sc in each st around. (48 sts) — 8 rounds even
Rnd 17: *Sc 6, dec* repeat around. (42 sts)
Rnd 18: *Sc 5, dec* repeat around. (36 sts)
At this point, insert your safety eyes between rounds 10 and 11, approximately 8 to 10 stitches apart. If you need to adjust their position for symmetry, now is the time. Once the safety eyes are secure, continue.
Rnd 19: *Sc 4, dec* repeat around. (30 sts)
Begin stuffing the head firmly. You’ll add more stuffing as you continue closing.
Rnd 20: *Sc 3, dec* repeat around. (24 sts)
Rnd 21: *Sc 2, dec* repeat around. (18 sts)
Rnd 22: *Sc 1, dec* repeat around. (12 sts)
Stuff fully and firmly.
Rnd 23: Dec around. (6 sts)
Fasten off, leaving a short tail. Use your yarn needle to close the remaining hole by threading the tail through the front loops of each remaining stitch and pulling tight. Weave in the end.
The Body
The body is worked in the same way as the head but shaped slightly differently to give your pig a cute, roly-poly silhouette.
Rnd 1: MR, sc 6. (6 sts)
Rnd 2: Inc in each st. (12 sts)
Rnd 3: *Sc 1, inc* repeat around. (18 sts)
Rnd 4: *Sc 2, inc* repeat around. (24 sts)
Rnd 5: *Sc 3, inc* repeat around. (30 sts)
Rnd 6: *Sc 4, inc* repeat around. (36 sts)
Rnd 7: *Sc 5, inc* repeat around. (42 sts)
Rnds 8–14: Sc in each st around. (42 sts) — 7 rounds even
Rnd 15: *Sc 5, dec* repeat around. (36 sts)
Rnd 16: *Sc 4, dec* repeat around. (30 sts)
Rnd 17: *Sc 3, dec* repeat around. (24 sts)
Stuff the body firmly before closing.
Rnd 18: *Sc 2, dec* repeat around. (18 sts)
Rnd 19: *Sc 1, dec* repeat around. (12 sts)
Rnd 20: Dec around. (6 sts)
Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Close the hole the same way as the head and set aside.
The Snout
The snout is one of the most important features of any amigurumi pig pattern — it’s what gives this little creature its undeniable piggy personality. Use your darker pink yarn for this piece.
Rnd 1: MR, sc 6. (6 sts)
Rnd 2: Inc in each st. (12 sts)
Rnd 3: *Sc 1, inc* repeat around. (18 sts)
Rnd 4: Sc in BLO of each st around. (18 sts)
Rnd 5: Sc in each st around. (18 sts)
Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Lightly stuff the snout so it holds its shape without being too firm. Using black yarn or a black embroidery floss, embroider two small oval nostrils on the flat front of the snout, positioned symmetrically near the top.
The Ears (Make 2)
Each ear is made with two layers: an outer ear in your main pink and an inner ear in the darker pink. This gives the ears a sweet, realistic look.
Outer Ear:
Rnd 1: MR, sc 6. (6 sts)
Rnd 2: Inc in each st. (12 sts)
Rnd 3: *Sc 1, inc* repeat around. (18 sts)
Rnd 4: Sc in each st around. (18 sts)
Fasten off, leaving a tail. Do not stuff.
Inner Ear:
Repeat rounds 1 and 2 of the outer ear only in your darker pink yarn. (12 sts)
Fasten off, leaving a long tail. Place the inner ear on top of the outer ear, align the centers, and sew together around the edges. The ear is not stuffed, just flat. Pinch the bottom of the ear slightly and tack it in place with a couple of stitches before sewing onto the head so it has a slight cupped shape.
The Arms (Make 2)
Rnd 1: MR, sc 6. (6 sts)
Rnd 2: Inc in each st. (12 sts)
Rnd 3: *Sc 1, inc* repeat around. (18 sts)
Rnds 4–5: Sc in each st around. (18 sts)
Rnd 6: *Sc 1, dec* repeat around. (12 sts)
Rnds 7–14: Sc in each st around. (12 sts)
Lightly stuff the rounded end (the hand/hoof) but leave the arm section mostly unstuffed so it remains soft and floppy. Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Flatten the open end and sew it closed before attaching.
The Legs (Make 2)
Rnd 1: MR, sc 6. (6 sts)
Rnd 2: Inc in each st. (12 sts)
Rnd 3: *Sc 1, inc* repeat around. (18 sts)
Rnds 4–6: Sc in each st around. (18 sts)
Rnd 7: *Sc 1, dec* repeat around. (12 sts)
Rnds 8–12: Sc in each st around. (12 sts)
Stuff the leg firmly through about two-thirds of its length, then leave the top portion unstuffed to keep it easy to sew on. Flatten the open end and sew closed. Fasten off, leaving a long tail.
The Tail
The tail is the cutest little finishing touch on this amigurumi pig free pattern. You want it to have that iconic curly look.
Cut a length of your main pink yarn about 18 inches long. Thread it through your yarn needle. Insert the needle into the back of the body where you’d like the tail to sit (roughly centered on the back, about a third of the way up from the bottom). Pull through until you have equal lengths on both sides. Now braid or twist these two strands tightly around each other. Once you’ve twisted the full length, hold the end and let it go — it will naturally curl into a spiral. Secure the end with a small knot and trim neatly. You can also use a crochet chain of about 10 stitches, fasten off, and let it curl naturally.
Assembling Your Amigurumi Pig
This is the step where your cute pig truly comes to life. Take your time with assembly — the positioning of each piece makes a huge difference in the final personality of your pig.
Start by attaching the head to the body. Hold them together and find the placement that looks most natural. The head should sit slightly forward on the body, not perfectly centered on top. Use your long tail and yarn needle to sew around the neck opening with small, even stitches, adding a little extra stuffing to the neck area through the gap before closing it completely.
Next, position the snout on the face between rounds 12 and 17, centered between the eyes. Pin it in place if you have sewing pins handy, then sew it on using the tail and a yarn needle, going through the back loops of the snout edge and the stitches of the head. Keep your stitches small and consistent for a clean join.
Attach the ears to the top of the head, positioned about three to four stitches apart from each other. Sew them securely, going through several rows of stitches to make sure they don’t droop or fall off over time.
Sew the arms to either side of the body at about round 5 from the top, making sure they hang evenly. The arms should angle slightly downward and forward for a natural look.
Position the legs at the bottom of the body, spaced evenly apart, pointing slightly outward. Sew them on securely.
Finally, attach the curly tail to the center back of the body.
If you’re adding felt cheeks, cut two small circles or ovals about 1cm wide and glue them onto the face beneath the eyes and on either side of the snout. A tiny dab of pink chalk blush on the cheeks works just as well and has a softer look.
Tips for the Best Results
Getting the most out of this free amigurumi pig pattern comes down to a few simple habits. Always crochet tightly enough that the stuffing doesn’t show through the stitches — if light peeks through, go down a hook size. Stuff your pieces as you go rather than all at once at the end; this gives you better control over the shape and prevents lumps. Use a stitch marker religiously, especially for beginners, because losing track of your round starts can quickly throw off your stitch counts.
When it comes to yarn, acrylic works wonderfully for amigurumi because it holds its shape well, is easy to clean, and comes in an enormous range of colors. That said, a soft cotton yarn gives a slightly crisper stitch definition if you want your pig’s features to look extra sharp.
If your magic ring tends to loosen over time, pull the tail tight and weave it in through at least four or five stitches in different directions to lock it in place permanently.
Customization Ideas
One of the most wonderful things about having a free amigurumi pig pattern is how easily you can personalize it. Here are a few ideas to make your pig uniquely your own.
You can dress your pig by crocheting a tiny hat, a little bow, or even a miniature outfit. A simple crocheted flower made from a small magic ring with petal increases makes an adorable hair accessory. If you want to make a mama pig and baby pig set, simply use the same pattern at different scales — a smaller hook and lighter yarn for the baby, or a larger hook and bulkier yarn for the mama.
Changing the color entirely opens up a whole world of possibilities. A lavender pig, a mint green pig, or even a sparkly yarn pig can all be made using this exact same pattern. You might also try making a piggy family with different color accents — different ear colors, different snout shades, or embroidered patterns on the body.
Caring for Your Amigurumi Pig
Since this little pig is likely to be loved hard, knowing how to care for it is important. Most acrylic yarn amigurumi can be gently hand washed in cool water with a mild soap and then laid flat or hung to dry. Avoid putting amigurumi in a dryer as the heat can distort the shape and damage the safety eyes. If the pig gets flat or lumpy with use, you can gently reshape it while slightly damp.
Why Amigurumi Makes the Perfect Handmade Gift
There’s something
