Amigurumi Bear Free Pattern: Make Your Own Adorable Stuffed Bear from Scratch

If you’ve ever spotted a tiny crocheted bear sitting on someone’s shelf and thought, “I want to make one of those,” you’re in exactly the right place. Amigurumi bears are one of the most beloved projects in the world of crochet, and for good reason. They’re charming, portable, endlessly customizable, and — once you get the hang of the magic ring and the art of stuffing a small sphere — surprisingly satisfying to complete. This free pattern will walk you through every step of making your own amigurumi bear, from the materials you’ll need to the very last sewn-on ear. No paid downloads, no paywalls. Just a complete, beginner-friendly guide you can follow right here.

Whether you’re a seasoned crocheter looking for a fun weekend project or someone who just picked up their first hook, this pattern is written to be as clear and accessible as possible. Let’s get into it.

What Is Amigurumi?

Before we dive into the pattern itself, a quick word on the craft for those who are new to it. Amigurumi is a Japanese word that combines “ami” (knitted or crocheted) with “nuigurumi” (stuffed doll). The style originated in Japan and has since spread across the entire globe, becoming one of the most popular forms of crochet art. The defining characteristic of amigurumi is the continuous spiral method of crocheting in the round, which creates seamless, three-dimensional shapes that get stuffed with polyfill and assembled into figures — animals, food, characters, and of course, bears.

Bears are a perennial favorite in amigurumi because their shapes are relatively simple (mostly spheres and ovals) while still producing something that looks unmistakably sweet and expressive.

Materials You’ll Need

Gathering your supplies before you start saves a lot of frustration mid-project. Here’s everything you’ll want to have on hand.

Yarn: The most common choice for amigurumi is worsted weight yarn (also labeled as weight 4). It gives your bear a nice firm texture when worked at a tighter gauge. You can choose any color you like — classic golden brown, cream, gray, black, or even pastel pink or lavender for a more whimsical look. You’ll need roughly 100–150 yards for a bear that stands about 5–6 inches tall.

Crochet Hook: A 3.5mm or 3.75mm hook is ideal when using worsted weight yarn for amigurumi. Using a slightly smaller hook than the yarn label recommends is intentional — it creates a tighter stitch that prevents the stuffing from showing through the gaps.

Safety Eyes: Two 9mm or 12mm safety eyes, depending on how large and expressive you want your bear’s face. Safety eyes come with a washer that locks them in place from the inside of the head.

Polyfill Stuffing: Standard polyester fiberfill, available at any craft store. You don’t need much for a small bear, but have a bag on hand so you can stuff generously.

Yarn Needle: For sewing the pieces together and weaving in your ends.

Stitch Markers: Helpful for marking the beginning of each round so you don’t lose your place.

Scissors: For cutting yarn between pieces.

Optional: Black embroidery thread or black yarn for stitching the nose and mouth.

Abbreviations Used in This Pattern

All instructions are written using US crochet terminology.

MR — Magic Ring
ch — Chain
sl st — Slip Stitch
sc — Single Crochet
inc — Increase (2 single crochets in the same stitch)
dec — Invisible Decrease (insert hook through the front loops of two consecutive stitches and complete as one single crochet)
BLO — Back Loop Only
FLO — Front Loop Only
st(s) — Stitch(es)
rnd — Round
( ) x — Repeat the instructions inside the parentheses the number of times indicated

Gauge

Gauge matters less in amigurumi than it does in wearables, but for reference: with worsted weight yarn and a 3.5mm hook, 6 sc x 7 rows should equal approximately 2 inches. The finished bear will stand about 5.5 to 6 inches tall. If you want a larger bear, simply go up in yarn weight and hook size.

The Pattern

Head

The head is typically the first piece crocheted because it’s the largest and the most exciting — once the eyes go in, your bear starts to have a personality.

Rnd 1: MR, 6 sc into ring. (6)
Rnd 2: inc in each st around. (12)
Rnd 3: (sc 1, inc) x 6. (18)
Rnd 4: (sc 2, inc) x 6. (24)
Rnd 5: (sc 3, inc) x 6. (30)
Rnd 6: (sc 4, inc) x 6. (36)
Rnd 7: (sc 5, inc) x 6. (42)
Rnds 8–14: sc in each st around. (42) — 7 rounds even
Rnd 15: (sc 5, dec) x 6. (36)
Rnd 16: (sc 4, dec) x 6. (30)

This is the point where you should attach your safety eyes. Place them between rounds 10 and 11, approximately 8 to 10 stitches apart. This is also the time to embroider your nose, if you plan to use embroidery thread. Once the safety eyes are locked in from the inside, you can’t easily reposition them, so take a moment to check placement before committing.

Rnd 17: (sc 3, dec) x 6. (24)
Rnd 18: (sc 2, dec) x 6. (18)

Begin stuffing the head firmly here. Add more stuffing as you continue decreasing.

Rnd 19: (sc 1, dec) x 6. (12)
Rnd 20: dec x 6. (6)

Fasten off, leaving a short tail. Use your yarn needle to close the remaining 6 stitches by weaving through the front loops and pulling tight. Weave in the end.

Muzzle

The muzzle gives your bear that classic protruding snout. It’s a small oval piece.

Rnd 1: MR, 6 sc into ring. (6)
Rnd 2: inc in each st around. (12)
Rnd 3: (sc 1, inc) x 6. (18)
Rnd 4: sc in each st around. (18)

Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Do not stuff the muzzle. Flatten it slightly and sew it onto the center of the face, just below the eyes. Before closing the seam entirely, you can lightly stuff it for a slightly rounder look, or leave it flat for a more traditional appearance. Once it’s sewn on, use black embroidery thread to stitch a small nose at the top center of the muzzle and a simple Y-shape or inverted V for the mouth beneath it.

Body

Rnd 1: MR, 6 sc into ring. (6)
Rnd 2: inc in each st around. (12)
Rnd 3: (sc 1, inc) x 6. (18)
Rnd 4: (sc 2, inc) x 6. (24)
Rnd 5: (sc 3, inc) x 6. (30)
Rnd 6: (sc 4, inc) x 6. (36)
Rnds 7–15: sc in each st around. (36) — 9 rounds even
Rnd 16: (sc 4, dec) x 6. (30)
Rnd 17: (sc 3, dec) x 6. (24)
Rnd 18: (sc 2, dec) x 6. (18)

Stuff the body firmly before continuing.

Rnd 19: (sc 1, dec) x 6. (12)
Rnd 20: dec x 6. (6)

Fasten off and close as with the head. Leave a long tail if you prefer to use the body end for sewing the head on, or set it aside and use a separate length of yarn for assembly.

Arms (Make 2)

Rnd 1: MR, 6 sc into ring. (6)
Rnd 2: inc in each st around. (12)
Rnd 3: (sc 1, inc) x 6. (18)
Rnds 4–5: sc in each st around. (18) — 2 rounds even
Rnd 6: (sc 1, dec) x 6. (12)
Rnds 7–12: sc in each st around. (12) — 6 rounds even

Stuff lightly, especially toward the paw end (rounds 1–5). The upper arm portion can be left mostly unstuffed so it remains soft and poseable when sewn on.

Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing.

Legs (Make 2)

Rnd 1: MR, 6 sc into ring. (6)
Rnd 2: inc in each st around. (12)
Rnd 3: (sc 1, inc) x 6. (18)
Rnd 4: (sc 2, inc) x 6. (24)
Rnds 5–7: sc in each st around. (24) — 3 rounds even
Rnd 8: (sc 2, dec) x 6. (18)
Rnd 9: sc in each st around. (18)
Rnd 10: (sc 1, dec) x 6. (12)
Rnds 11–17: sc in each st around. (12) — 7 rounds even

Stuff the foot firmly and the leg lightly. Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing.

Ears (Make 2)

Rnd 1: MR, 6 sc into ring. (6)
Rnd 2: inc in each st around. (12)
Rnd 3: (sc 1, inc) x 6. (18)
Rnd 4: sc in each st around. (18)

Fasten off, leaving a long tail. Do not stuff the ears. Flatten them and sew them onto the top of the head, positioned symmetrically. For a bear that’s about 5.5 inches tall, placing the ears at rounds 3–5 of the head and about 8 stitches apart usually gives a classic look.

Assembly

Assembly is where your little bear comes to life, and it’s worth taking your time here. Pin all the pieces into position before sewing anything permanently. A few tips:

The head should be attached to the top of the body, centered, and sewn all the way around the seam for stability. Use a whipstitch or mattress stitch and pull firmly.

The arms get sewn onto the sides of the body, usually at about rounds 3–5 of the body counting from the top. Position them so they fall slightly forward — this gives your bear a more natural, cuddly look.

The legs go on the bottom sides of the body. If you want your bear to sit, angle them forward slightly. If you want it to stand, position them facing downward and make sure the feet are flat.

Double-check that the ears are evenly placed before sewing. Once you’ve determined the right position, sew through the base of the ear and into several rounds of the head, going around at least twice for security.

Weave in all remaining yarn ends carefully. For a clean finish, bury the yarn tail inside the piece before cutting.

Customization Ideas

One of the best things about this pattern is how easily it adapts. Here are some fun ways to make your amigurumi bear uniquely yours.

Bow or Accessory: A tiny crocheted bow or a ribbon tied around the bear’s neck instantly adds personality. Use a contrasting color for maximum effect.

Color Variations: Try a dark charcoal bear with a light cream muzzle and belly for a panda-inspired look, or go blush pink for something delicate and sweet. Multi-colored yarn gives beautiful, unexpected results.

Embellishments: Tiny embroidered flowers on the ear, a little heart on the paw, or a simple pattern on the belly can elevate a basic bear into something truly special.

Clothing: Once you’re comfortable with the base pattern, crocheting a tiny sweater, hat, or overalls for your bear is a natural next step. Amigurumi clothing patterns abound online and are a wonderful way to practice new stitches.

Changing the Size: Work the pattern with DK weight yarn and a 3.0mm hook for a tiny bear under 4 inches, or switch to bulky yarn and a 6mm hook for a large, huggable version.

Tips for Amigurumi Beginners

If this is one of your first amigurumi projects, here are a few things that will make the process much smoother.

The magic ring can feel awkward the first few times. If you find it slipping open, leave a slightly longer tail and pull it tight before continuing. Some crocheters prefer to start with two chains and work their stitches into the second chain from the hook — that works too, though it can leave a small hole at the center.

Always work in a continuous spiral rather than joined rounds. This means you do not slip stitch and chain at the end of each round. Instead, you simply keep crocheting. Use a stitch marker to mark the first stitch of each round so you can keep count.

The invisible decrease (dec as listed in the abbreviations above) produces a much neater result than a standard decrease in amigurumi. It takes a moment to get used to, but once you do, your work will look noticeably cleaner.

Stuff firmly, but not so tightly that you distort the shape. Polyfill compresses over time, so erring on the side of fuller is usually better.

Don’t rush the assembly. A bear whose head is slightly off-center or whose arms are uneven is still adorable, but taking ten extra minutes to pin and check your placement before sewing makes a big difference in the finished look.

Caring for Your Amigurumi Bear

If you’re making this bear as a gift — especially for a child — it’s worth thinking about how it should be cleaned. Most acrylic yarns are machine washable on a gentle cycle in a mesh laundry bag, though air drying is always recommended to preserve the shape and stuffing. Natural fibers like cotton or wool may require hand washing. Check your yarn label for specific care instructions.

Safety eyes are secure once properly installed, but for very young children (under three years old), it’s safer to embroider the eyes instead of using safety eyes, as a precaution against small parts.

Sharing Your Make

If you use this pattern to make your own amigurumi bear, the crafting community would love to see it. Sharing your finished project on social media or in crochet groups is a wonderful way to connect with other makers, get encouragement, and maybe even inspire someone else who’s been putting off trying amigurumi for the first time. You might be surprised how many people see your little bear and immediately want to learn.

Amigurumi has this wonderful quality of being both a meditative solo activity and an inherently social one — the finished creatures beg to be shown off, given away, and admired. They make unforgettable handmade gifts for birthdays, baby showers, holidays, or just because.

Final Thoughts

Making your first amigurumi bear is one of those crafting milestones that tends to open a door you never quite close again. Once you’ve assembled that first little bear and seen it go from a flat magic ring to a three-dimensional, personality-filled creature sitting in your palm, it’s hard not to immediately start thinking about what you’ll make next. A bunny? A panda? A whole family of bears in different colors?

This free pattern is yours to use, adapt, share with friends, and make as many times as you like. The only limit is how much yarn you have on hand — and that’s a problem most crocheters are always happy to solve with a trip to the craft store.

Happy hooking, and enjoy every stitch of your amigurumi bear.