Alien Amigurumi: Free Crochet Pattern
There is something wonderfully strange about crocheting a creature that has never existed. Unlike making a bunny or a bear — animals whose proportions you know by heart — an alien gives you permission to invent. Three eyes? Sure. Tentacle arms? Why not. A body that is more oval than anything else in the natural world? Absolutely. This free crochet pattern for an alien amigurumi leans into that creative freedom while still giving you a clear, step-by-step guide to follow from start to finish.
Whether you are new to amigurumi or you have a whole shelf of crocheted creatures already watching you from across the room, this pattern is written to be approachable. It uses basic stitches, works up in the round (as most amigurumi do), and results in a soft, squishy little alien that sits about five to six inches tall when finished. It makes a fantastic gift, a fun desk companion, or a quirky addition to a Halloween or sci-fi themed display.
Let’s get into it.
What Is Amigurumi?
Before the pattern itself, a quick word for anyone who is new to the craft. Amigurumi is the Japanese art of crocheting or knitting small stuffed figures. The word combines “ami,” meaning knitted or crocheted, and “nuigurumi,” meaning stuffed doll. The style became widely popular in Japan in the 1980s and 1990s and has since spread across the entire crafting world. What makes amigurumi distinctive is the use of a magic ring start, continuous rounds rather than joined rounds, and a firm tension that keeps stuffing from showing through the fabric.
Amigurumi can be made to look like animals, food, fictional characters, mythological creatures — and yes, aliens. The small scale and simple construction make them a perfect project for intermediate beginners, and even experienced crocheters find them satisfying because a finished piece can come together in just a few hours.
Materials You Will Need
To make this alien amigurumi, gather the following before you sit down to crochet:
Yarn: Worsted weight acrylic yarn in your chosen alien color. Classic alien green (think lime or sage) is always popular, but dusty purple, steel blue, and even pale gray can look fantastic. You will need approximately 50 to 75 yards for the body and head, plus small amounts of a contrasting color for any details you want to add.
Hook: A 3.5mm (size E) crochet hook. Using a hook slightly smaller than recommended for your yarn weight helps create a tighter fabric that keeps the stuffing contained.
Eyes: 12mm safety eyes work well for this pattern. You will need two for the standard version, but if you want to give your alien three eyes (which is highly encouraged), grab three.
Stuffing: Polyfill stuffing or any similar polyester fiber fill. You will need enough to firmly stuff the head and body.
Yarn needle: For weaving in ends and attaching pieces.
Stitch markers: At least two, to mark the beginning of each round.
Scissors: The unsung hero of every crochet project.
Optional: Small amounts of black yarn or embroidery floss for stitching a mouth or other facial features. Black safety eyes instead of colored ones can also give your alien a more classic, eerie look.
Abbreviations Used in This Pattern
This pattern uses standard US crochet terminology.
MR — Magic ring
ch — Chain
sl st — Slip stitch
sc — Single crochet
inc — Increase (two single crochets in the same stitch)
dec — Invisible decrease (insert hook through the front loops of the next two stitches and single crochet them together)
BLO — Back loop only
FO — Fasten off
st(s) — Stitch(es)
Rnd — Round
All rounds are worked in continuous spirals unless otherwise noted. Do not join rounds with a slip stitch unless the pattern specifically says to do so. Move your stitch marker up at the beginning of each new round to keep track of where you are.
Gauge
Gauge is not critical for amigurumi, but for reference, with a 3.5mm hook and standard worsted weight yarn, 10 single crochets and 11 rows should measure approximately 2 inches by 2 inches. Your finished alien should be about 5 to 6 inches tall when assembled and stuffed firmly.
The Pattern
Head
The head and body of this alien are worked separately and then joined, which allows you to stuff each piece fully and gives the final figure a nicely rounded shape.
Rnd 1: MR, 6 sc into ring. (6 sts)
Rnd 2: Inc in each st around. (12 sts)
Rnd 3: Sc 1, inc repeat around. (18 sts)
Rnd 4: Sc 2, inc repeat around. (24 sts)
Rnd 5: Sc 3, inc repeat around. (30 sts)
Rnd 6: Sc 4, inc repeat around. (36 sts)
Rnd 7–12: Sc around. (36 sts, 6 rounds even)
At the end of Round 12, attach your safety eyes. For two eyes, place them between Rounds 8 and 9, approximately 8 stitches apart. For three eyes, space them evenly: the center eye goes directly at the front, and the other two sit on either side, slightly lower. This is the moment to do it because once you continue past Round 15 or so, the opening becomes too small to attach safety eyes safely.
Rnd 13: Sc 4, dec repeat around. (30 sts)
Rnd 14: Sc 3, dec repeat around. (24 sts)
Rnd 15: Sc 2, dec repeat around. (18 sts)
Begin stuffing the head now, before the opening becomes too small to work with. Stuff it firmly — alien heads should feel solid and hold their shape. Continue adding stuffing as you close the final rounds.
Rnd 16: Sc 1, dec repeat around. (12 sts)
Rnd 17: Dec around. (6 sts)
FO, leaving a short tail. Use your yarn needle to close the remaining hole by weaving through the front loops of each remaining stitch and pulling tight. Weave in the end securely.
Body
Rnd 1: MR, 6 sc into ring. (6 sts)
Rnd 2: Inc in each st around. (12 sts)
Rnd 3: Sc 1, inc repeat around. (18 sts)
Rnd 4: Sc 2, inc repeat around. (24 sts)
Rnd 5: Sc 3, inc repeat around. (30 sts)
Rnd 6–10: Sc around. (30 sts, 5 rounds even)
Now we add a little alien detail — a slightly indented waist, which gives the body more shape and makes it look less like a plain oval.
Rnd 11: Sc 3, dec repeat around. (24 sts)
Rnd 12: Sc around. (24 sts)
Rnd 13: Sc 3, inc repeat around. (30 sts)
Rnd 14–16: Sc around. (30 sts, 3 rounds even)
Rnd 17: Sc 3, dec repeat around. (24 sts)
Rnd 18: Sc 2, dec repeat around. (18 sts)
Begin stuffing the body now, and stuff it firmly.
Rnd 19: Sc 1, dec repeat around. (12 sts)
Rnd 20: Dec around. (6 sts)
FO, leaving a long tail for sewing. Close the remaining hole the same way you did for the head. Do not weave in this long tail yet — you will use it to sew the head to the body.
Arms (Make Two)
Rnd 1: MR, 6 sc into ring. (6 sts)
Rnd 2: Inc in each st around. (12 sts)
Rnd 3–4: Sc around. (12 sts, 2 rounds even)
Rnd 5: Sc 2, dec repeat around. (9 sts)
Rnd 6–12: Sc around. (9 sts, 7 rounds even)
Stuff the lower part of the arm (the hand/claw end) lightly, leaving the upper portion unstuffed. This keeps the arms floppy and poseable, which makes them more fun and expressive.
FO, leaving a long tail for sewing. Flatten the top of the arm and whipstitch it closed, then use the remaining tail to attach the arm to the body.
Legs (Make Two)
Rnd 1: MR, 6 sc into ring. (6 sts)
Rnd 2: Inc in each st around. (12 sts)
Rnd 3: Sc 1, inc repeat around. (18 sts)
Rnd 4–6: Sc around. (18 sts, 3 rounds even)
Rnd 7: Sc 1, dec repeat around. (12 sts)
Rnd 8–14: Sc around. (12 sts, 7 rounds even)
Stuff the foot portion firmly and leave the upper leg lightly stuffed or unstuffed so it stays flexible when attached to the body. FO with a long tail.
Antenna (Make Two — Optional but Highly Recommended)
Rnd 1: MR, 4 sc into ring. (4 sts)
Rnd 2: Inc in each st around. (8 sts)
Rnd 3: Sc around. (8 sts)
Rnd 4: Sc 2, dec repeat around. (6 sts)
Rnd 5–10: Sc around. (6 sts, 6 rounds even)
Do not stuff the antenna. FO with a long tail for attaching to the top of the head.
Assembly
Assembly is where your alien really comes to life, and taking a little extra time here makes a significant difference in the final result.
Start by positioning the head on the body. The flat closed end of the head sits against the flat closed end of the body. Use straight pins or stitch markers to hold the pieces in place before you sew. Whipstitch around the entire seam, going through both layers consistently. Pull your yarn snug but not so tight that it puckers. When you get all the way around, make sure the pieces are firmly attached — give the head a gentle tug to test the seam — then weave in and knot the end securely inside the body.
Next, attach the legs. Position them at the base of the body, spaced evenly on either side. They should angle slightly outward so your alien can “stand” when set on a flat surface. Sew them on firmly using the long tail from each leg.
Attach the arms to the sides of the body, roughly at the widest point. You can angle them upward (like the alien is waving or signaling) or straight out to the sides. Sew them securely.
Finally, attach the antennae to the top of the head. They look best when they emerge from just behind the center top, spaced a few stitches apart and angled slightly outward.
If you want to add a mouth, now is the time. Use a length of black yarn or embroidery floss and a yarn needle to stitch a simple curved line below the eyes. A wide U-shape gives a friendly expression. A thin straight line reads as more stoic and mysterious. A jagged zigzag is perfect for a menacing alien.
Customization Ideas
One of the best things about making an alien amigurumi is that there is no wrong answer when it comes to customization. Here are some ideas to make your alien uniquely yours.
Color combinations: Try a two-tone alien by making the head one color and the body another. Or make the arms and legs a darker shade than the main body for a more textured, dimensional look.
Extra eyes: Adding a third eye transforms a cute creature into something that reads unmistakably as alien. Four eyes arranged in a square is another option, and one giant central eye (like a cyclops) is genuinely unsettling in the best possible way.
Tentacle arms: Instead of the rounded arms in the pattern, make four or six long, thin tubes and attach them in a cluster on each side of the body. Work each tentacle over about 15 rounds of 5 or 6 stitches, leaving them unstuffed so they curl naturally.
Spots and stripes: Use surface slip stitching or simple embroidery to add spots, stripes, or alien markings to your finished figure. A row of contrasting dots stitched along the top of the head can look like bioluminescent spots.
Miniature accessories: A tiny crocheted flying saucer, a small ray gun worked in gray yarn, or even a little probe tool made from wire and yarn scraps can complete the scene if you want to display your alien as part of a vignette.
Seasonal versions: Make a Halloween alien in orange and black, a Christmas alien in red and green with a tiny Santa hat, or a galaxy-themed alien in deep purple with metallic yarn accents. The base pattern stays the same — only the colors and tiny details change.
Tips for Success
A few practical notes that will make this project go more smoothly.
Always begin with the magic ring pulled snugly closed before you work your first round of increases. A loose center results in a visible hole in the top of the head or base of the body, which is frustrating to fix after the fact.
Maintain consistent tension throughout. Amigurumi crocheted too loosely will show the white stuffing through gaps in the fabric, especially in brighter or lighter yarn colors. If you find your tension loosening as you go, try consciously pulling your working yarn a little more firmly with each stitch.
Use the invisible decrease rather than a standard decrease. The invisible decrease — worked through the front loops only of two consecutive stitches — creates a much smoother, less bumpy fabric during decrease rounds, which makes a noticeable difference in how professional your finished alien looks.
Stuff firmly and incrementally. It is much easier to add stuffing in small amounts as you go than to try forcing a large clump through a small opening near the end. Start stuffing the head once you have completed your decrease rounds and the opening is still workable.
Count your stitches at the end of every round, especially during the increase and decrease sections. A single missed stitch early on compounds quickly and can leave your finished piece looking lopsided. A simple tally on a piece of paper or a stitch counter app on your phone makes this much less tedious.
Sharing Your Finished Alien
Once your alien is complete, consider sharing it online. The amigurumi community is genuinely one of the most supportive corners of the crafting world, and seeing finished objects made from a free pattern is something that brings real joy to pattern writers and fellow crafters alike. If you post your alien on Instagram, Pinterest, or Ravelry, consider tagging it with terms like alien amigurumi, free amigurumi pattern, or crochet alien so others searching for inspiration can find it.
You are also welcome to sell finished items made from this pattern. Just please do not copy and republish the pattern itself as your own.
Final Thoughts
An alien amigurumi is the kind of project that reminds you why you started crocheting in the first place. There is no pressure to get the proportions exactly right, no authoritative reference image telling you your alien looks wrong, and no limit on how strange or sweet or spooky the final result can be. The pattern gives you a framework, and everything beyond that is yours to decide.
Whether your alien ends up looking like a friendly visitor from a distant planet or something decidedly more unsettling, it will be made with your hands, in your colors, in the hours you chose to give it. That is worth something. That is, in a very literal sense, what makes it art.
Now go make something from another world.
