Time Skip Collar Free Knitting Pattern
There is something deeply satisfying about a knitting project that looks far more complicated than it actually is. The Time Skip Collar is exactly that kind of project — a striking, layered neckpiece that draws admiring glances and prompts questions like “Did you really make that yourself?” Yes, you did. And you did it with a straightforward construction method that any knitter who has mastered basic stitches can follow from cast-on to bind-off.
This free knitting pattern walks you through every step of creating a beautiful collar that works as a standalone accessory or as the finishing touch layered over a simple sweater, dress, or coat. Whether you are a beginner looking to move beyond scarves or an experienced knitter searching for a quick, satisfying project, the Time Skip Collar delivers on every level.
What Is the Time Skip Collar?
The Time Skip Collar gets its name from the way it seems to leap forward in style — as if it skipped several trends and arrived at something timeless. It sits snugly around the neck and fans out into a graceful, slightly dramatic collar shape that lies flat against the chest and shoulders. Think of the kind of collar you might see on a vintage blouse, only rendered in cozy knitted fabric with beautiful texture.
The design works with a wide range of yarn weights and fiber types, which means you can tailor it to the season. A lightweight fingering or DK yarn in cotton or linen creates a breathable collar perfect for spring layering. A soft merino or merino-blend worsted weight turns it into a cozy cold-weather accessory. Even a luxurious mohair or alpaca blend gives the collar an airy, halo-effect finish that photographs beautifully.
The construction is worked flat in rows, beginning with a ribbed neckband and gradually increasing to create the flared collar shape. The increases are spaced evenly and worked in a way that creates subtle visual interest without requiring complex techniques. The result is a collar with gentle, organic shaping that looks as though it grew naturally into its finished form.
Materials You Will Need
Before you cast on, gather everything you need so the knitting goes smoothly from the very first stitch.
Yarn: Approximately 150 to 200 yards of your chosen yarn. For the sample shown here, a DK weight yarn in a natural oatmeal tone was used, giving the collar that classic, versatile look that pairs with almost anything in your wardrobe. If you substitute yarn, aim for a fiber with good drape rather than something very stiff, as you want the collar to lay flat and move naturally.
Needles: US size 6 (4.0 mm) straight or circular needles, or the size needed to achieve gauge. If you are working with a heavier yarn like worsted, try US size 7 or 8. Always check your gauge before committing to your needle size.
Notions: A tapestry needle for weaving in ends, a stitch marker or two to track your increases, scissors, and optionally a button or snap closure if you prefer the collar to fasten at the back rather than remain open. A length of scrap yarn in a contrasting color is also handy if you want to mark specific rows.
Gauge: 22 stitches and 30 rows over 4 inches in stockinette stitch using DK weight yarn and US size 6 needles. Gauge matters here because the neckband needs to fit comfortably around your neck without being too tight or too loose. Take the time to knit a swatch, wash it, block it, and measure it before beginning.
Sizing
The Time Skip Collar is designed to fit an average adult neck circumference of 14 to 16 inches, which covers a very wide range of people. The neckband is worked in a 2×2 ribbing that has natural stretch, so the fit is forgiving. If you have a very petite neck or are making this collar for a child, you can reduce the cast-on number by a multiple of 4 stitches. For a larger neck or a looser fit, add stitches in multiples of 4.
The finished collar, once blocked and laid flat, measures approximately 7 inches from the neckband edge to the outermost point of the collar — enough height to give a truly dramatic, old-fashioned-collar effect without being overwhelming.
Abbreviations Used in This Pattern
k — knit
p — purl
k2tog — knit two stitches together (a right-leaning decrease)
kfb — knit into the front and then the back of a stitch (an increase that adds one stitch)
m1L — make one left (pick up the bar between stitches from front to back and knit through the back loop)
m1R — make one right (pick up the bar between stitches from back to front and knit through the front loop)
RS — right side
WS — wrong side
sl1 — slip one stitch purlwise
pm — place marker
sm — slip marker
rep — repeat
sts — stitches
Pattern Notes
This collar is worked flat, meaning you will turn your work at the end of every row. The right side of the collar is the knit side when you are working in stockinette sections, and the purl side when working reverse stockinette sections. The neckband is worked in 2×2 ribbing, which creates a stretchy, neat edge.
The increases in this pattern are intentionally placed to be nearly invisible, blending into the fabric rather than creating deliberate decorative increase lines. If you prefer visible raglan-style increase lines as a design feature, you can substitute the m1L and m1R increases with kfb increases and the lines will show on the right side of the fabric.
When blocking, wet blocking is strongly recommended. Soak the finished collar in cool water for about 20 minutes, gently squeeze out excess water (never wring), roll it in a towel to remove more moisture, then pin it to your blocking mat to the measurements given. This step truly transforms the collar, opening up the fabric, flattening the collar lay, and giving the finished piece that polished, professional look.
The Time Skip Collar Pattern
Neckband
Cast on 88 stitches using a long-tail cast-on or your preferred method. The long-tail cast-on is recommended because it creates a sturdy, slightly elastic edge that works beautifully for neckbands.
Row 1 (RS): K2, p2; repeat from to end of row.
Row 2 (WS): K2, p2; repeat from to end of row.
Repeat Rows 1 and 2 until the ribbing measures 1.5 inches from the cast-on edge, ending after a WS row. This creates a neat neckband that will sit snugly against the base of the neck.
Transition Row
This row sets up the stitch count for the collar body and begins the shaping process.
Transition Row (RS): K4, kfb, k4; repeat from to last 4 stitches, k4. You should now have approximately 104 stitches on your needle. Count carefully before proceeding.
Collar Body — Section One
Now you will begin working the collar body in a combination of stockinette and seed stitch to create subtle textural interest. The seed stitch border runs along the outer edges and gives the collar a tidy, non-rolling frame.
Set-Up Row (WS): P1, k1, purl to last 2 stitches, k1, p1.
Row 1 (RS): K1, p1, knit to last 2 stitches, p1, k1.
Row 2 (WS): P1, k1, purl to last 2 stitches, k1, p1.
Repeat Rows 1 and 2 four more times for a total of 10 rows in Section One, ending after a WS row. At this point your collar should measure approximately 1.5 to 2 inches from the transition row.
Increase Round One
It is time to begin flaring the collar. These increases are spread evenly across the row and will add significant width to the collar shape.
Increase Row (RS): K1, p1, k3, m1R, k6; repeat from to last 5 stitches, m1R, k3, p1, k1.
Count your stitches. You should have approximately 120 to 122 stitches depending on your stitch count going in. Don’t panic if you are off by a stitch or two — knitting is flexible, and the collar shape will still be beautiful.
Next Row (WS): P1, k1, purl to last 2 stitches, k1, p1.
Collar Body — Section Two
Continue in the established pattern (stockinette body with seed stitch borders) for 12 more rows, ending after a WS row. The collar is starting to fan out visibly now, and you should be able to see the shape taking form on your needles.
Increase Round Two
Increase Row (RS): K1, p1, k2, m1R, k6; repeat from to last 5 stitches, m1R, k2, p1, k1.
You should now have approximately 140 to 142 stitches on your needle.
Next Row (WS): P1, k1, purl to last 2 stitches, k1, p1.
Collar Body — Section Three
Work the established pattern for 10 more rows, ending after a WS row. The collar is quite wide now and you may find it helpful to use a circular needle if you have not already switched, simply to accommodate the stitch count comfortably.
Increase Round Three
Increase Row (RS): K1, p1, m1R, k5; repeat from to last 3 stitches, m1R, k1, p1, k1.
Your stitch count should be approximately 168 to 170 stitches.
Next Row (WS): P1, k1, purl to last 2 stitches, k1, p1.
Collar Body — Section Four
Work the established pattern for 8 rows, ending after a WS row. This final section of the collar body completes the flare. You are almost there.
Collar Border
The collar border creates a beautiful, structured outer edge. This section is worked entirely in seed stitch to contrast with the stockinette collar body and to prevent the outer edge from rolling inward.
Row 1 (RS): K1, p1; repeat from to end of row.
Row 2 (WS): K1, p1; repeat from to end of row. (Because the stitch count is even, this will naturally produce seed stitch with each stitch offset from the one below.)
Repeat these two rows three more times for a total of 8 rows of seed stitch border.
Bind off loosely in pattern on the next RS row, working each stitch as it appears (knit the knits and purl the purls). A loose bind-off is important here — if your bind-off tends to be tight, try going up one needle size for this row alone. The outer edge of the collar needs to have enough ease to lay flat when the collar is worn.
Finishing
Cut your yarn, leaving a 6-inch tail, and thread it through your tapestry needle. Weave in all ends on the wrong side of the work, being careful to secure them well since neckline accessories tend to experience more movement and stress than garment pieces.
If you are adding a button or snap closure, now is the time to attach it. Position it at the center back of the neckband section. A single button with a corresponding loop of yarn works beautifully, or a pair of snaps gives a very clean, modern finish. Some knitters prefer to leave the collar open at the back and simply let it rest around the neck — this also works well and requires no additional finishing.
Wet block the collar as described in the pattern notes. Pin the neckband into a gentle curve and spread the collar body and border out flat, pinning the outer edge to maintain the full width of the flare. Allow to dry completely — this usually takes several hours or overnight depending on your fiber and the humidity in your home.
Styling Your Time Skip Collar
The beauty of this collar is its versatility. Here are a few ways to incorporate it into your wardrobe:
Wear it over a plain crewneck sweater to instantly elevate a casual outfit. The collar adds the kind of intentional layering detail that looks thoughtfully styled without requiring much effort.
Layer it over a button-down shirt, letting it frame the collar of the shirt beneath. This gives a very classic, literary-character kind of look that works beautifully in autumn and winter.
Pair it with a simple sheath dress for a more formal occasion. A collar in a neutral like ivory, charcoal, or camel will work with almost any dress color.
Knit one in a bold color — deep burgundy, forest green, or rich navy — to act as a statement accessory against a neutral outfit.
Yarn Substitution Ideas
This pattern works with almost any smooth yarn in the DK to worsted weight range. Some yarns that work particularly well include Paintbox Yarns Simply DK (an affordable acrylic with lovely stitch definition), Cascade 220 (a workhorse wool in a vast range of colors), Malabrigo Rios (a superwash merino with beautiful color depth and soft hand), or Lion Brand Feels Like Butta (a very soft synthetic option that is wonderfully affordable and machine washable).
If you want to try something more luxurious, a silk-blend or cashmere-blend yarn in the DK weight creates an extraordinarily elegant collar that could work as a special occasion piece. Just be aware that silk and cashmere blends have more drape than wool, so your collar may fan out a bit more dramatically — which is not necessarily a bad thing.
Troubleshooting Common Issues
If your collar is rolling at the outer edge, your bind-off was likely too tight. You can either redo the bind-off on a larger needle or work a row of single crochet around the outer edge, which will stabilize it immediately.
If your neckband feels too tight, try the collar on before proceeding past the ribbing section. If it is uncomfortably snug, carefully rip back and add a multiple of 4 stitches to your cast-on number.
If the collar is bunching or gathering at the neckband rather than lying flat, the collar body has too many stitches relative to the neckband. This can be corrected at blocking by spreading the collar body wide and pinning aggressively at the outer edge, giving the fabric direction as it dries.
A Word on Gauge
Gauge gets mentioned in every knitting pattern, and knitters often skip it, especially for accessories. For the Time Skip Collar, gauge matters primarily for the neckband fit. If your gauge is looser than specified, your neckband will be larger and may not hug the neck the way it should. If your gauge is tighter, the neckband will be snug — which some knitters prefer and others find uncomfortable. A quick swatch and adjustment of needle size will save you from any fitting surprises.
The Time Skip Collar is the kind of project you will return to again and again — for gifts, for personal wear, for yarn-stash busting, and for those evenings when you want something beautiful on your needles that doesn’t demand your full concentration. Once you have knit it once, you will know the construction well enough to work it from memory, and you will find yourself reaching for it whenever you have a partial skein of something lovely and want to make something worth keeping.
Cast on, enjoy the process, and wear your finished collar with the quiet satisfaction of someone who made something beautiful with their own hands.
