Sweet Softies: Mosu Bag — Free Japanese Knot Bag Crochet Pattern

There is something quietly wonderful about a bag that does not require a zipper, a clasp, or any hardware at all. The Japanese knot bag has been charming crafters for decades, and when you translate its elegant simplicity into crochet, you get something that feels both timeless and completely handmade in the best possible way. This pattern, the Mosu Bag, is designed to give you that soft, rounded silhouette with two curved handles that cross over each other to close — no buttons needed, no magnets, no fuss. Just beautiful yarn and a knot that holds everything together.

Whether you are a seasoned crocheter looking for a fun weekend project or someone who has finished a few basic bags and wants to try something with a little more personality, the Mosu Bag is a perfect next step. Let’s walk through everything you need to know: the inspiration behind the design, the materials, the full free pattern, and plenty of tips to help you get the best result possible.

What Is a Japanese Knot Bag?

Before we dive into the pattern itself, it helps to understand the style. The Japanese knot bag, sometimes called an azuma bag or a knot bag, is a traditional form that originated in Japan. Its defining feature is two asymmetrical handles — one longer than the other — that loop through each other to create a self-closing mechanism. When you carry the bag, the handles naturally tighten around each other, keeping your belongings secure without any additional closures.

The design is beautifully minimal. The body of the bag is typically one or two curved or rectangular pieces stitched together in a specific configuration, and the handles emerge from opposite ends. The visual effect is a bag that almost looks like it is holding itself, with soft curves and a gentle puff to the body.

In fabric sewing, Japanese knot bags are usually made from cotton or linen. In crochet, we get to play with texture, color, and stitch patterns in ways that sewn versions simply cannot replicate. The Mosu Bag takes inspiration from the traditional azuma shape but adapts it for yarn, leaning into a slightly rounded body, textured stitching, and handles that have just enough flexibility to knot comfortably.

Why You Will Love Making the Mosu Bag

The Mosu Bag is satisfying to make because it works up quickly, uses straightforward stitches, and looks far more complex than it actually is. Here are a few reasons it has become a favorite in the sweet softies community:

The construction is intuitive. Once you understand how the two main body pieces connect and how the handles are built, the whole project makes logical sense. There are no complicated shaping tricks or confusing seam placements.

It is genuinely functional. The knot closure is not just decorative. It holds up well for everyday use — trips to the farmers market, carrying a book and your phone, bringing a small project to a knit night. The bag sits comfortably on the wrist or loops over the shoulder depending on how you wear it.

It is endlessly customizable. Change the yarn weight, change the color, add a stripe or a textured stitch border, and you have an entirely different bag. The Mosu Bag is one of those patterns that you will find yourself making repeatedly in different combinations.

It makes a wonderful gift. Because the finished bag is structured but soft, practical but beautiful, it appeals to a wide range of people. Crochet gifts do not always land well with everyone, but a handmade bag almost always does.

Materials and Tools

To make the Mosu Bag as written in this pattern, you will need the following:

Yarn: Approximately 250 to 300 yards of worsted weight yarn (Category 4). A cotton or cotton-blend yarn gives the best results because it provides structure and holds the rounded shape well after the bag is complete. Wool or acrylic will also work, though the bag may be slightly softer and less structured. The sample shown here was made with a 100% cotton worsted yarn in a warm terracotta tone.

Hook: 5.0mm crochet hook (or the size needed to achieve your gauge).

Notions: Tapestry needle for weaving in ends, scissors, stitch markers (optional but helpful), and a ruler or measuring tape.

Gauge: 14 stitches and 16 rows = 4 inches in half double crochet. Gauge is important here because the two body pieces need to align properly when you sew them together. If your tension runs loose, try dropping down to a 4.5mm hook. If it runs tight, move up to a 5.5mm.

Finished Size: Approximately 10 inches wide at the widest point and 8 inches tall at the body, with handles measuring 12 inches and 16 inches respectively. These dimensions can be adjusted by changing your yarn weight or adding additional rows to the body pieces.

Abbreviations

Throughout this pattern, the following standard US crochet abbreviations are used:

ch — chain
sl st — slip stitch
sc — single crochet
hdc — half double crochet
dc — double crochet
st(s) — stitch(es)
sp — space
rep — repeat
RS — right side
WS — wrong side
beg — beginning
rem — remaining

Pattern Notes

Read through all the pattern notes before beginning.

The Mosu Bag is made in two identical body pieces and two handles (one shorter, one longer). The pieces are joined with a single crochet seam that becomes part of the decorative edge.

The bag body uses a combination of half double crochet rows and a textured row worked in back loops only. This creates a subtle ribbed effect and gives the bag its softness and slight stretch.

The handles are worked in rows of single crochet with a folded and slip-stitched edge to create a firm, neat strap.

All turning chains in this pattern do not count as a stitch.

Stitch counts are given in brackets at the end of rows where they may be confusing.

Mosu Bag Free Crochet Pattern

Part One: Body Pieces (Make Two)

Foundation: Ch 38.

Row 1 (WS): Starting in the second chain from the hook, hdc in each ch across. Turn. [37 hdc]

Row 2 (RS): Ch 1, hdc in each st across. Turn.

Row 3: Ch 1, hdc in the back loop only of each st across. Turn.

Row 4: Ch 1, hdc in each st across. Turn.

Rep rows 2 through 4 a total of six times, then rep rows 2 and 3 once more. You will have worked 20 rows total. The piece should measure approximately 5 inches tall.

Shaping the Curve (Bottom of Bag):

Row 21: Ch 1, hdc2tog over the first two sts, hdc to the last 2 sts, hdc2tog. Turn. [35 hdc]

Row 22: Ch 1, hdc in each st across. Turn.

Row 23: Ch 1, hdc2tog, hdc to last 2 sts, hdc2tog. Turn. [33 hdc]

Row 24: Ch 1, hdc in each st across. Turn.

Row 25: Ch 1, hdc2tog, hdc to last 2 sts, hdc2tog. Turn. [31 hdc]

Row 26: Ch 1, sc in each st across. Do not turn. Fasten off, leaving a long tail for seaming.

Make a second body piece identical to the first. Both pieces should have the same dimensions and the same number of stitches along each edge.

Part Two: Short Handle

Foundation: Ch 10.

Row 1: Starting in the second chain from the hook, sc in each ch across. Turn. [9 sc]

Row 2: Ch 1, sc in each st across. Turn.

Rep Row 2 until the handle measures 14 inches from the foundation. Do not fasten off.

Finishing the Handle Edge: Fold the handle in half lengthwise so that the long edges meet. Slip stitch along the open long edge to close the handle into a firm tube. Fasten off and weave in ends.

Part Three: Long Handle

Foundation: Ch 10.

Row 1: Starting in the second chain from the hook, sc in each ch across. Turn. [9 sc]

Row 2: Ch 1, sc in each st across. Turn.

Rep Row 2 until the handle measures 18 inches from the foundation. Do not fasten off.

Fold and slip stitch the long edge closed, same as the short handle. Fasten off and weave in ends.

Assembly

Lay the two body pieces flat with right sides facing each other. The wider ends (your foundation chain ends) should be at the top, and the shaped curved ends should be at the bottom.

Attaching the Short Handle: Using a tapestry needle and a length of matching yarn, sew the short handle to the top right corner of the front body piece. The handle should be centered approximately 2 inches from the right edge, with about 1 inch of the handle’s end overlapping the edge of the body. Stitch securely back and forth several times to ensure a firm attachment. Repeat on the same side of the back body piece — the short handle connects the front and back on the right side of the bag.

Attaching the Long Handle: Sew the long handle to the top left corner of the front body piece, placed about 2 inches from the left edge, with the same 1-inch overlap. Attach to the back body piece on the left side in the same manner.

Seaming the Bag: With right sides still facing each other, use the long tail from your body pieces to work a single crochet seam along the bottom curved edge and up both side edges, leaving the top open. If you prefer a less visible seam, use a mattress stitch or whip stitch instead. The seam you choose will depend on whether you want the joining edge to show as a decorative detail or blend in.

Once seamed, turn the bag right side out. Give it a gentle tug to settle the seams and open the body.

Optional Edging

If you want a polished finish along the top opening, join yarn at any point along the top edge and work one round of single crochet around the entire opening. When you reach the bases of the handles, work 2 sc around the base to keep the edge flat. Slip stitch to join and fasten off. This edging is optional but gives the bag a very clean, professional look.

Tips for Getting the Best Result

Use stitch markers at the beginning and end of each row. When you are working the decreases on the curved base, it is easy to lose track of where the row begins and ends, especially with a textured yarn. A stitch marker at each end saves a lot of frustration.

Block your body pieces before assembly. Cotton yarn responds beautifully to wet blocking. Soak your pieces, gently squeeze out the water, lay them flat, and pin them to your measurements. This evening out the stitches makes the assembly much neater and ensures both pieces are the same size.

Test your handle length before committing. Before you fasten off the handles, hold the measured length against your wrist or shoulder to see how the bag will hang. The measurements given in this pattern suit most adults comfortably, but if you have longer arms or prefer a different drop, adjust accordingly.

Be generous with your handle attachment stitching. The handles carry the weight of everything in the bag, so this is not a place to take shortcuts. Use a strong yarn tail, sew back and forth multiple times, and finish with a few knot stitches before weaving in the end.

Try variegated or hand-dyed yarn for a completely different look. The simple stitch pattern of the Mosu Bag is an excellent backdrop for yarn that has interesting color shifts. A single skein of hand-dyed cotton can transform this pattern into something that looks one-of-a-kind.

Yarn Substitutions and Weight Variations

The Mosu Bag can be adapted for different yarn weights with some adjustments. Here are the most popular variations:

Bulky Weight (Category 5 or 6): Work with a 6.0mm or 6.5mm hook. You will need fewer rows to reach the same dimensions, and the finished bag will have a chunkier, more textural look. Reduce your foundation chain by 6 to 8 stitches and decrease proportionally. This version works up very quickly and makes a sturdy market bag.

DK Weight (Category 3): Use a 4.0mm hook and add approximately 6 extra rows to the body before beginning the shaping. The finished bag will be slightly smaller and has a delicate, refined look — lovely in a neutral linen or a soft sage green.

Fingering or Lace Weight: This variation is advanced and time-consuming but produces a lightweight, summery bag that is absolutely beautiful. Use a 2.5mm or 3.0mm hook and double your foundation chain. The stitch pattern takes on an almost woven appearance at smaller gauge.

Color Ideas and Inspiration

If you are not sure where to start with color, here are a few combinations that work beautifully with the Mosu Bag shape:

A deep forest green with cream handles creates a classic, earthy look that suits every season. Terracotta with a dusty rose handle is warm and modern. Navy blue worked in a single color is clean and versatile. Pale yellow or butter cream with a contrasting caramel handle feels sunny and cheerful without being overwhelming.

If you want to add stripes, the simplest approach is to switch colors every two rows during the main body section. Because you are working in rows anyway, joining a new color at the beginning of a row is seamless and easy.

Caring for Your Mosu Bag

A cotton Mosu Bag can be hand washed in cool water with a gentle detergent. Reshape it while damp and allow it to dry flat. Avoid wringing the bag, as this can distort the shape. Most cotton yarns become softer with each wash, so your bag will actually improve over time with use.

If you made the bag with acrylic yarn, machine washing on a gentle cycle is usually fine — check your yarn label to confirm. Wool blends should always be hand washed in cold water to prevent felting.

Sharing Your Finished Mosu Bag

There is nothing more encouraging than seeing how other crafters interpret a pattern. If you make the Mosu Bag, please share your finished project! Tag your photos on Instagram or Ravelry so that the sweet softies community can celebrate your work. Every version is different, and seeing a dozen Mosu Bags in a dozen different yarns and colorways is one of the great joys of publishing a free pattern.

If you have questions about the pattern, leave them in the comments below. Sizing questions, yarn substitution questions, and assembly confusion are all welcome — this is meant to be a supportive space where crocheters of every level can get the help they need.

Final Thoughts

The Mosu Bag sits at a lovely intersection of traditional craft and contemporary design. Its Japanese knot bag roots give it a shape that feels thoughtful and intentional, while crochet adds warmth, texture, and personality that no sewn version can quite replicate. It is the kind of project that you can finish in a weekend and immediately put to use, and it is also the kind of pattern that invites you to keep experimenting — different yarns, different sizes, different color stories.

Whether you are making this bag for yourself or as a gift for someone who will treasure a handmade piece, the Mosu Bag is a pattern worth saving, returning to, and sharing. Happy crocheting, and enjoy every stitch of this sweet little project.