Simple Crochet Tote Bag Pattern with Crochet Handles

There is something deeply satisfying about carrying a bag you made yourself. Whether you’re heading to the farmers market, the beach, or a weekend craft fair, a handmade tote has a charm that no store-bought bag can replicate. This simple crochet tote bag pattern is designed for intermediate beginners — someone who knows how to single crochet and double crochet but doesn’t want to wrestle with complicated stitch counts or confusing construction. The finished bag is sturdy, roomy, and fully functional, complete with crochet handles that hold up under real-world use.

This pattern walks you through every step, from choosing your yarn to fastening off your last stitch. By the time you finish, you’ll have a beautiful tote bag that looks polished, holds its shape, and can handle a full grocery run without stretching out of shape.

Materials You’ll Need

Before you cast on, gather everything in one place so you’re not hunting through drawers mid-project.

Yarn: You’ll want approximately 400–500 yards of a worsted weight cotton yarn (size 4). Cotton is ideal for tote bags because it’s strong, washable, and doesn’t stretch excessively the way acrylic can. Popular choices include Lion Brand 24/7 Cotton, Paintbox Simply DK Cotton, or Cascade Ultra Pima. A neutral like cream, tan, or sage works beautifully, but of course, pick any color that makes you happy.

Hook: A 5.0mm (H/8) crochet hook works well with most worsted weight cotton yarns and produces a fabric that’s firm enough to hold its shape. If your gauge runs loose, drop down to a 4.5mm hook.

Other supplies: A yarn needle for weaving in ends, scissors, and a set of stitch markers will make this project much easier. Optional but useful: a small piece of stiff interfacing or a piece of canvas cut to size for the bag bottom, if you want extra structure.

Finished Measurements

The finished tote measures approximately 14 inches wide by 13 inches tall, not including the handles. The handles add another 10–12 inches, giving you plenty of room to sling the bag over your shoulder. This is a generous tote — big enough to carry a library book haul, a set of knitting projects, or a week’s worth of produce.

Gauge

14 double crochets and 8 rows = 4 inches using a 5.0mm hook and worsted weight cotton.

Gauge is more flexible with a bag than with a garment, but it does affect the final size. If you want a smaller bag, use a tighter gauge or a lighter weight yarn. If you want something bigger, use bulky cotton rope or a size 5 yarn with a 6.0mm hook.

Abbreviations

Here is a quick reference for all the stitches and terms used in this pattern.

ch — chain
sl st — slip stitch
sc — single crochet
dc — double crochet
hdc — half double crochet
st(s) — stitch(es)
sp — space
rep — repeat
RS — right side
WS — wrong side
BLO — back loop only
FLO — front loop only

Understanding the Construction

This tote is worked in a simple, practical way that avoids seaming wherever possible. You’ll begin by crocheting a flat rectangle for the bottom of the bag, then work around the perimeter of that rectangle to build up the sides. Working in the round creates a seamless body, and the texture stitch on the sides gives the finished bag a satisfying ridged look that adds both visual interest and structural stability.

The handles are crocheted separately as long, firm strips, then sewn onto the bag with a square stitch for durability. If you’ve ever had a bag handle tear away from the body, you’ll appreciate the extra reinforcement this method provides.

Part One: The Bag Bottom

Start by creating your foundation chain.

Chain 37. Turn your work.

Row 1: Starting in the second chain from the hook, sc across. You should have 36 sc. Ch 1, turn.

Rows 2–16: Sc across each row. Ch 1, turn at the end of each row.

At the end of Row 16, do not turn and do not fasten off. You’ve just made a flat rectangle that forms the base of your bag. It should measure roughly 10 inches by 4.5 inches. Now you’re going to work around the outside of this rectangle to begin the bag body.

Part Two: The Bag Body

This section is worked in continuous rounds. Place a stitch marker at the beginning of each round so you don’t lose your place.

Round 1 (Setup round):

Working along the long edge of your base rectangle, sc evenly down the side, placing 3 sc into each corner stitch to allow the corners to lay flat. Continue sc across the short end, 3 sc in the corner, sc along the remaining long side, 3 sc in the corner, and sc across the final short end, 3 sc in the corner. Join with a sl st to the first sc of the round.

You should have approximately 100 stitches at the end of this round, depending on exactly how many stitches you pick up along each side. Don’t panic if your count is slightly different — just keep it consistent going forward and adjust your stitch count to an even number if needed.

Rounds 2–20 (Textured Body):

These rounds use a back loop only single crochet (BLO sc), which creates the classic ridged texture you see on many market bags. It’s a small adjustment that makes a big difference visually.

Ch 1 (this does not count as a stitch throughout this pattern). Working in the BLO, sc in each stitch around. Sl st to join. Repeat this round for a total of 20 rounds.

At this point your bag body should measure approximately 10 inches tall from the base rectangle.

Rounds 21–23 (Top Band):

To create a clean, polished top edge, switch to working in both loops for the final three rounds.

Ch 1, sc in each stitch around. Sl st to join. Repeat for three rounds total.

Do not fasten off after Round 23. You’ll use this live yarn to work the handle placement round next.

Part Three: Handle Placement Round

Before attaching the handles, you need to decide where they’ll sit. For a standard tote with two handles, you want two sets of placement points, each centered on the front and back panels of the bag.

To find your center: count the total number of stitches around and divide by two. This gives you the midpoint of the front panel and the midpoint of the back panel. Mark those midpoints with stitch markers.

For each handle attachment, you’ll want two anchor points separated by about 3–4 inches (roughly 10–12 stitches apart) on either side of the midpoint.

Once you’ve marked your four anchor points on the front and four on the back, continue as follows.

Round 24 (Edging Round):

Ch 1, sc in each stitch around, working normally until you reach your first pair of anchor points. At those stitches, work 2 sc together (decrease) to create a very slight pucker that helps the handle sit neatly. Repeat at each of the four anchor pairs. Sl st to join. Fasten off and weave in end.

Part Four: Crocheting the Handles

The handles are worked as separate flat strips, then folded lengthwise and slip stitched together before being attached to the bag. This creates a thick, rounded handle that feels comfortable in your hand and holds up well over time.

Make 2 handles.

Chain 65. Turn.

Row 1: Sc in the second chain from the hook and in each chain across. 64 sc. Ch 1, turn.

Rows 2–5: Sc in each stitch across. Ch 1, turn.

After Row 5, fasten off, leaving a tail of about 12 inches for sewing.

Folding and joining the handle:

Fold the strip lengthwise so the long edges meet. With your yarn needle and the long tail, sl st or whip stitch along the open long edge to close the strip into a rounded tube. Weave in the short end at the fold but leave the 12-inch tail free — you’ll use it for attaching.

If you prefer a braided or twisted handle for a slightly different look, you can make three narrower strips (chain 65, work 2 rows sc) and braid them together. This is optional but makes for a very satisfying finished handle with a slightly more artisan appearance.

Part Five: Attaching the Handles

This is the step that makes the difference between a bag that lasts and one that falls apart. Take your time here.

Position the first handle so the two ends land on your anchor points on the front panel of the bag. Pin or hold them in place with stitch markers. Thread your yarn needle with a fresh length of yarn (about 18 inches) in your bag color.

To attach each handle end, work a square of stitches: sew down through the body of the bag and up through the handle, working in a square pattern roughly 1 inch by 1 inch. Go around this square multiple times until you feel confident the handle isn’t going anywhere. If you want an extra decorative touch, work an X stitch through the center of the square after completing the border.

Repeat this process for both ends of both handles, checking that each handle is sitting at the same height and the same distance from the center seam. Nothing is more frustrating than a finished bag where one handle is noticeably longer than the other.

Part Six: Finishing Touches

Once both handles are attached, weave in any remaining yarn ends securely. For cotton yarn, it’s worth weaving each tail in at least three directions — forward, back, and around a strand — to make sure nothing works loose after washing.

Optional bag bottom insert: If you want your tote to keep its shape and stand upright on its own, cut a piece of rigid plastic canvas or heavy cardboard to fit the inside bottom. Trim it slightly smaller than the base so it sits inside without puckering. Some crafters sew a simple fabric sleeve for the insert so it can be removed before washing.

Washing: Cotton totes can be machine washed on a gentle cycle in cold water. Reshape and lay flat to dry. Avoid the dryer, which can shrink cotton significantly.

Tips for Customizing This Pattern

One of the great joys of making your own bag is the ability to customize it exactly the way you want.

Change the color: Work the bottom in a contrasting color, then switch to your main color for the body. You can add a third color for the top band and handles. Earthy neutrals with a pop of mustard or terracotta are a perennially popular combination.

Add a pocket: Before assembling the bag, crochet a simple rectangle (ch 21, work 15 rows of sc) and sew it to the inside of the back panel. Add a button closure if you like. This is especially handy for a keys pocket.

Try a different stitch: The BLO sc creates one type of ridge texture, but you could also try the moss stitch (alternating sc and ch 1 spaces), the linen stitch, or a simple dc body for a more open, airy feel. Keep in mind that more open stitches mean less structure, which works better for a market bag than a tote you plan to carry heavy items in.

Adjust the size: To make a smaller bag, simply use a shorter foundation chain and work fewer rounds on the body. To make a larger bag, add to both. The handle length can stay the same for a smaller bag, but a larger bag benefits from slightly longer handles — add 5–8 chains for each size increase.

Frequently Asked Questions

What’s the best yarn for a crochet tote bag?

Cotton is hands-down the most popular choice because it’s durable, washable, and holds its shape well. Linen blends are also excellent if you want a slightly more refined look. Avoid 100% acrylic for bags you plan to use heavily, as it tends to stretch out over time. If you prefer a chunkier look, cotton rope (sometimes called macramé cord) in a 3mm or 5mm thickness makes gorgeous, very sturdy totes worked on larger hooks.

How long will this project take?

Most intermediate crocheters finish this tote in about 8–12 hours of working time. The body works up quickly once you settle into the BLO rhythm, and the handles are simple and fast. This is a great project to take to a weekend crochet-along or knock out over a few evenings.

Can I sell bags made from this pattern?

Yes, bags made from this pattern are absolutely yours to sell. Whether you’re selling at a local craft market, on Etsy, or to friends and family, you’ve put in the time and materials and the finished object belongs to you entirely.

My handles are twisting — what went wrong?

Handle twist usually happens when the strip isn’t folded evenly before being sewn closed. If you pin one end and fold carefully down the length before you stitch, this is much easier to control. If it still wants to twist, a little blocking (dampening and laying flat to dry) usually solves the problem.

Can I use this pattern for a beginner?

It’s marketed toward intermediate beginners, meaning someone who has worked a few projects before, but a motivated complete beginner can absolutely tackle it. The main skills required are chain, single crochet, and double crochet. If you’re brand new to crochet, consider practicing those three stitches on a swatch first, then dive in.

A Few Final Thoughts

Making a crochet tote bag is one of those projects that earns its place at the top of every beginner-to-intermediate crafter’s list for a very good reason: it’s practical, it’s portable, it’s customizable, and the finished result is something you’ll actually use every single day. There is a particular pleasure in reaching into your handmade bag for your keys or pulling out a library book and noticing the texture of the stitches under your fingers.

This pattern was designed to be generous with instructions rather than sparse, because nobody enjoys getting halfway through a project and realizing they’re not sure what comes next. If you work through each section in order without skipping ahead, you’ll find that the whole thing comes together quite logically — the bottom supports the sides, the sides build up to the handles, and the handles tie the whole structure together.

Don’t be afraid to personalize. The measurements, colors, and stitch choices given here are starting points. Your version might have different proportions or a different texture stitch, and that’s exactly as it should be. The best crochet patterns are ones that give you just enough structure to succeed while leaving room for your own creative decisions.

Happy crocheting, and enjoy your new tote.