Scrap Yarn Bag Free Crochet Pattern + Video
If you’ve been crocheting for any length of time, you already know the joy — and the guilt — that comes with a growing stash of scrap yarn. Those little leftover balls and partial skeins from finished projects pile up fast, and it feels wasteful to throw them away but overwhelming to figure out what to do with them. That’s exactly why this scrap yarn bag pattern exists. It’s colorful, practical, completely customizable, and best of all, it’s free.
This pattern is perfect for beginners who want to practice working with color changes and for intermediate crocheters who are ready to create something bold and functional at the same time. The finished bag is sturdy enough to carry books, groceries, or craft supplies, and the striped design means every single version of it will look completely unique depending on the scraps you use.
Let’s get into everything you need to know to make your own scrap yarn bag from start to finish.
What Is a Scrap Yarn Bag?
A scrap yarn bag is exactly what it sounds like — a crocheted bag made from leftover yarn scraps. Rather than using a single coordinated skein or a purchased color-matched set, you work through your yarn stash in whatever order you like, changing colors when one length runs out and picking up the next. The result is a one-of-a-kind striped or color-blocked tote that no one else in the world has.
Beyond being beautiful, this project is also an excellent stash buster. If you’ve been staring at a bin of mismatched yarn wondering what to do with it, this is your answer. Because the bag is worked in simple rows or rounds (depending on the construction method), it doesn’t require complex stitch counting or careful color planning. You just keep going until you run out of one color, then grab another.
The bag style in this tutorial is a classic rectangular tote with flat sides, a reinforced base, and two sturdy handles. It’s roomy, practical, and surprisingly quick to make once you get into the rhythm of it.
Materials You’ll Need
Before you pick up your hook, gather everything on this list. The beauty of this pattern is that you don’t need to match anything — contrast and variety are the whole point.
Yarn: Worsted weight yarn scraps in as many colors as you like. You’ll need approximately 300 to 400 yards total for a medium-sized tote. Cotton yarn is ideal for bags because it holds its shape well and doesn’t stretch out too much over time, but acrylic works beautifully too. Avoid very fuzzy or textured yarns for this project, as they can make it harder to see your stitches and will affect the bag’s durability.
Hook: A size 5mm (H/8) crochet hook works well for worsted weight yarn. If you tend to crochet tightly, go up to a 5.5mm. If you crochet loosely, stick with the 5mm or even drop to a 4.5mm to keep the fabric firm enough not to stretch out when loaded with items.
Scissors: A small, sharp pair for cutting yarn at each color change.
Yarn needle: For weaving in ends, which you’ll have quite a few of with this project.
Stitch markers: Optional but helpful for keeping track of the beginning of each round if you’re working in the round.
Measuring tape: To check your dimensions as you go.
Yarn Tips for the Best Results
Since this is a scrap yarn project, you’re likely mixing brands, fiber contents, and yarn weights that are close to but not exactly the same. Here are a few tips to keep things looking polished.
Try to stick within the same weight category as much as possible. If you’re using worsted as your base, a few DK or bulky strands can sneak in without causing major problems, but too much variation will make the fabric uneven and the bag lumpy.
Cotton and acrylic scraps can absolutely be mixed. The slight difference in drape is barely noticeable in the finished bag, and the varied texture actually adds character.
When it comes to color order, you have two options. You can plan your color sequence ahead of time by laying out your yarn scraps and deciding on an order before you begin. Or you can work completely spontaneously, grabbing whatever scrap is closest when it’s time to change colors. Both approaches work, and spontaneous color changes often produce the most interesting results.
Don’t worry about having exactly the same amount of each color. Some stripes will be wider and some will be narrower, and that variation is part of what makes the bag look handmade and special.
Gauge
Gauge is more important for wearable garments than for bags, but you still want your bag to turn out the right size. With worsted weight yarn and a 5mm hook, aim for approximately 14 single crochet stitches and 16 rows to equal 4 inches. If your gauge is slightly off, your finished bag will be slightly larger or smaller, which is fine for this type of project.
Finished Dimensions
The finished bag measures approximately 14 inches wide by 12 inches tall (not including handles), with a base depth of about 3 inches. You can adjust these dimensions easily by changing your starting chain length or working more or fewer rows.
Abbreviations Used in This Pattern
Ch — chain
Sl st — slip stitch
Sc — single crochet
Hdc — half double crochet
St — stitch
Sts — stitches
Rep — repeat
Blo — back loop only
Flo — front loop only
RS — right side
WS — wrong side
The Pattern
Base of the Bag
The bag is constructed by starting with a flat oval base and then working up the sides in joined rounds. This method creates a bag with a natural flat bottom that stands on its own.
Chain 36. This is your starting chain. If you want a wider bag, add more chains in multiples of 2. If you want a narrower bag, subtract chains in the same way.
Round 1: Starting in the second chain from the hook, sc across to the last chain (35 sc), work 3 sc into the last chain to turn the corner, then continue working sc along the opposite side of the foundation chain back to the beginning, work 3 sc into the first chain, join with sl st to the first sc. You should have 76 stitches total.
Round 2: Ch 1, sc in each st around, working 3 sc into each of the 4 corner stitches (the center stitch of each 3-sc group from the previous round). Join with sl st. (88 sts)
Round 3: Ch 1, sc in each st around, again working 3 sc into each corner stitch. Join. (100 sts)
Rounds 4–5: Ch 1, sc in each st around without any increases. Join. This firms up the base and gives it some structure.
At the end of Round 5, do not cut your yarn if you’re continuing in the same color for the sides. If you’re switching to a new scrap color here, cut, fasten off, and join your next color with a sl st.
Sides of the Bag
Working in joined rounds without any increases or decreases, you’ll build the walls of the bag. The key to keeping the sides straight (rather than spiraling in or out) is to work in the back loop only for the first round after the base, which creates a clean visual fold line between the base and the sides.
Round 1 of sides (BLO round): Join new color if needed, ch 1, sc in the blo of each st around. Join with sl st. (100 sts)
Rounds 2 onward: Ch 1, sc in both loops of each st around. Join with sl st.
Continue in this manner, changing colors whenever you finish a scrap or simply whenever you feel like a change, until the sides of the bag measure approximately 11 to 12 inches from the fold line.
Changing colors: When you want to change colors, finish your last stitch of the current color by pulling through the final two loops with the new color. This creates a clean transition. Cut the old yarn leaving a 6-inch tail, and continue with the new color. Alternatively, you can carry the yarn along the inside of the bag for very short color changes, but for most scrap yarn projects it’s easier to simply cut and rejoin.
Texture variation (optional): For added visual interest, you can alternate between single crochet, half double crochet, and even rows of slip stitch worked in the front loop only to create ridged texture stripes. This is completely optional and doesn’t affect the structure of the bag.
Top Edging
Once you’ve reached your desired height, you’ll work a simple border along the top to stabilize and finish the opening.
Round 1: Join a color you’d like to feature prominently (or just continue with whatever color you ended on), ch 1, sc in each st around. Join.
Round 2: Ch 1, sc in each st around. Join.
Round 3: Ch 1, working from left to right instead of the usual right to left, work a reverse single crochet (also called crab stitch) in each st around. Join and fasten off. This creates a neat, rope-like edge that adds strength and a professional finish.
Handles
You’ll make two handles. Each one is a simple chain with single crochet worked over it for thickness and durability.
Handle (make 2):
Ch 71 (or adjust for your preferred handle length — longer chains = longer handles, shorter chains = shorter handles that sit on the shoulder more firmly).
Row 1: Starting in the second chain from hook, sc across. (70 sc)
Row 2: Ch 1, turn, sc across.
Row 3: Ch 1, turn, sc across.
Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing.
Fold the handle in half lengthwise if you’d like extra thickness, and whipstitch the long edges together using your yarn needle. This creates a firmer, more structured handle that holds its shape better over time.
Attaching handles:
Lay the bag flat and fold it in half to find the center front and center back. Mark a point approximately 3 inches to the left and 3 inches to the right of center on both the front and back panels. These are your four attachment points.
Using the long tails and your yarn needle, stitch each end of each handle firmly to the bag at these points, sewing through multiple layers and going over the stitching several times for strength. The handles need to bear the weight of the bag’s contents, so don’t be shy about reinforcing this attachment.
Video Tutorial
If you’re a visual learner, a full video tutorial walks through every step of this pattern in real time, including how to work the oval base, how to make a clean color change, and how to attach the handles securely. Watching the video alongside the written pattern is especially helpful for beginners who haven’t made color changes before or who want to see the blo round in action.
The video is available on the DIY Magazine YouTube channel and is linked directly in this post. Pause and rewind as many times as you need — there’s no rush, and every step is shown slowly and clearly.
Finishing and Care
Once your handles are attached, weave in all your yarn ends using your yarn needle. With a scrap yarn project, you’ll have quite a few ends to deal with — a good movie or podcast is your best friend during this part. Weave each tail through several stitches in multiple directions to secure it, then trim the excess close to the fabric.
If your bag feels a little stiff from all the tension of single crochet, give it a gentle wash in cool water, reshape it, and let it dry flat. This will soften the fibers and help the bag relax into a more comfortable shape.
For ongoing care, hand washing or a delicate machine cycle works well for most cotton and acrylic yarn bags. If you used a mix of fibers, treat it according to the most delicate fiber in the blend.
Customization Ideas
One of the best things about this pattern is how easily it adapts to different styles and uses.
For a market tote, use all-cotton yarn and slightly open up the stitch tension so the bag has a bit more breathability. This also makes it lighter to carry.
For a beach bag, choose bright, saturated colors and make the bag a few inches wider and taller than the base pattern. Add a simple mesh-style panel by working alternating chains and single crochets for a row or two to let sand shake out easily.
For a gift bag, use a single color or a curated two-color palette instead of random scraps, add a simple drawstring through the top edge, and you have a beautiful reusable gift wrap alternative.
For a child’s toy bag, make a smaller version with a shorter chain start and fewer rounds on the sides. Work in bright, cheerful colors and attach a simple drawstring closure instead of handles.
You can also add pockets, zipper closures, or a lining made from fabric for a more polished and functional finished bag. A simple rectangle of cotton fabric cut to the inner dimensions of the bag, hemmed, and hand-stitched in place along the top edge is all it takes to create a fully lined bag.
Why Scrap Yarn Projects Matter
Beyond the practical benefits of using up leftover yarn, scrap yarn projects like this bag carry a quiet kind of philosophy. They’re a reminder that beauty doesn’t require perfect coordination or expensive materials. They push us to work with what we have, to trust the process, and to be surprised by the results.
Every scrap in your bag has a story — that blue from the baby blanket you made for your niece, that bright orange from the Halloween decoration project, the soft cream from the dishcloth you crocheted last winter. When you stitch those scraps together, you’re creating something that holds a little bit of all those memories.
That’s the real magic of scrap yarn crochet. It’s not just sustainable crafting. It’s storytelling in fiber.
Share Your Make
Once you’ve finished your bag, share a photo! Tag your project on social media with the hashtag #ScrappyToteDIY so others can see your color combinations and get inspired for their own versions. Seeing how differently this simple pattern turns out in different hands and different stashes is one of the most delightful parts of free community patterns.
If you have questions while working through the pattern, leave a comment below and the community here is always happy to help troubleshoot. Whether you’re stuck on the oval base, confused about a color change, or just want to share your progress, this is the place for it.
Happy crocheting — and happy stash busting.
