Reversible Elf-burgh Bonnet Hat Knitting Pattern: Your Complete Guide to a Magical, Two-Sided Winter Hat
There is something undeniably enchanting about a hat that can be worn two ways. Double the warmth, double the style, and double the satisfaction of finishing a project that genuinely earns its place in your knitting basket. The Reversible Elf-burgh Bonnet Hat is exactly that kind of pattern — a whimsical, structured bonnet-style hat with a pointed tip and a snug, framing brim that channels old-world charm while remaining completely wearable in the modern wardrobe. Whether you are a seasoned knitter looking for a rewarding weekend project or an intermediate knitter ready to stretch your skills, this pattern delivers a deeply satisfying experience from cast-on to bind-off.
This guide will walk you through everything you need to know: the materials, the techniques, the stitch-by-stitch pattern instructions, finishing details, and tips for customizing your hat for different sizes and yarn weights. Pull up your favorite chair, brew something warm, and let’s get started.
What Is an Elf-burgh Bonnet Hat?
The Elf-burgh Bonnet draws inspiration from the pointed hats of medieval and folk traditions — think gnomes tucked into forest hollows, elves working in candlelit workshops, and the soft woolen bonnets worn by villagers in cold northern climates centuries ago. The “burgh” in the name nods to the old Scottish word for a town or settlement, lending a slightly historical, storytelling quality to the design.
What makes this particular version special is its reversibility. The hat is knitted in the round with two separate fabric layers that are joined at the brim, so when you flip it inside out, you reveal a completely different color or texture. You can match your outfit, your mood, or simply choose whichever side happens to feel right on a given morning.
The pointed tip is shaped through gentle decreases that begin midway through the crown, pulling the fabric into a soft, conical peak. The brim is slightly flared and structured enough to frame the face beautifully, giving the hat that characteristic bonnet silhouette that sets it apart from a standard beanie.
Materials You Will Need
Before casting on, gather the following supplies. Having everything ready before you begin makes the knitting process feel seamless and enjoyable.
Yarn: You will need two complementary yarns — one for the outer layer (Side A) and one for the inner layer (Side B). Choose yarns of similar weight for the best results. A worsted-weight yarn works beautifully for this pattern, offering warmth, structure, and relatively quick knitting. Approximately 150–200 yards of each color will be sufficient for an adult medium size. If you want a thicker, cozier hat, a bulky yarn knit on slightly larger needles is a wonderful alternative.
Wool blends are ideal for this pattern because they hold the pointed shape of the crown without collapsing, block beautifully, and provide excellent insulation. Alpaca blends give a wonderfully soft inner layer if you prefer something next-to-skin comfortable. Plant-based yarns like cotton or bamboo blends are lovely for transitional weather but may not hold the pointed tip as crisply.
Needles: A set of US size 7 (4.5mm) circular needles, 16 inches in length, plus a set of double-pointed needles (DPNs) in the same size for the crown decreases. If you prefer the magic loop method, a 32-inch or longer circular needle works perfectly throughout.
Additional Supplies: Stitch markers (at least 4), a tapestry needle for weaving in ends, scissors, and a tape measure. A row counter is optional but helpful for keeping track of your rounds during the crown shaping.
Gauge
Getting the right gauge ensures your hat fits correctly and that the reversible construction lies flat without bunching or pulling.
Gauge: 20 stitches and 28 rounds = 4 inches in stockinette stitch, worked in the round, using US size 7 needles.
Take time to knit a gauge swatch before beginning, especially since this hat is sized by head circumference. An adult medium hat is sized for a 21–22 inch head circumference. Adjust needle size as needed to match gauge — going up a needle size if your stitches are too tight, or down a size if they are too loose.
Sizes
This pattern is written for three sizes. The instructions for larger sizes appear in parentheses.
Small (Child, ages 4–10): 18–19 inch head circumference
Medium (Adult average): 21–22 inch head circumference
Large (Adult large): 23–24 inch head circumference
Abbreviations
Throughout this pattern, the following abbreviations are used. If you are newer to reading knitting patterns, reviewing these before beginning will make the instructions flow much more naturally.
CO — cast on
BO — bind off
k — knit
p — purl
k2tog — knit two stitches together (a right-leaning decrease)
ssk — slip, slip, knit (a left-leaning decrease)
pm — place marker
sm — slip marker
rnd — round
rep — repeat
RS — right side
WS — wrong side
MC — main color (Side A, the outer layer)
CC — contrasting color (Side B, the inner layer)
Pattern Instructions
Casting On and Setting Up the Double Layer
The reversible construction of this hat is achieved by knitting both fabric layers simultaneously on the same needles, with one layer sitting inside the other. This is accomplished using a technique called double knitting, modified here to create two fully separate tubes that are connected only at the brim edge.
Step 1 — Long-Tail Cast On
Using MC and the long-tail cast on method, CO 100 (110, 120) stitches. Join to work in the round, being careful not to twist your stitches. Place a stitch marker to indicate the beginning of the round.
Step 2 — The Brim Joining Round
The brim is the only point where the two layers connect, so it needs to be worked carefully. For the first 6 rounds, work a k2, p2 ribbing pattern. This creates a slightly elastic brim that grips the head gently and creates a defined edge between the outer bonnet and the lining.
Round 1–6: k2, p2 to end of round.
After 6 rounds of ribbing, you will divide your stitches to begin working the two separate layers.
Step 3 — Separating the Layers
On the next round, you will use a backward loop cast on to add stitches for the inner layer (CC), then arrange all stitches so that MC stitches and CC stitches alternate on your needle. This setup round is the most technical part of the pattern, and it is worth reading through it slowly before beginning.
Separation Round: k1 MC, then using CC yarn, CO 1 stitch using backward loop — repeat to end of round. You now have 200 (220, 240) stitches on your needles, alternating between MC and CC stitches.
From this point forward, every time you encounter an MC stitch, you will knit it with MC yarn, bringing the CC yarn to the back. Every time you encounter a CC stitch, you will knit it with CC yarn, bringing the MC yarn to the back. This creates two separate stockinette tubes on the same needle — one in MC and one in CC.
Work in this double-knitting arrangement for 4.5 (5, 5.5) inches from the brim separation round, or until the body of the hat reaches the desired depth before crown shaping begins.
Crown Shaping — The Elf Point
This is where the magic happens. The pointed crown is shaped through evenly spaced decreases that draw the top of the hat into a soft cone. Because you are working with two separate layers, each decrease round will include decreases for both the MC layer and the CC layer.
Divide your stitches evenly into 8 sections by placing markers every 25 (27–28, 30) stitches. You will work a k2tog at the end of each section on the MC stitches, and a ssk at the beginning of each section on the CC stitches, maintaining the double-knitting separation between layers.
Decrease Round: k to 2 stitches before marker (in MC), k2tog MC, sm, ssk CC, continue in pattern to next marker — repeat 8 times total.
Plain Round: Work one plain round between each decrease round for the first 4 decrease rounds, then begin working decrease rounds every round until 16 (16, 16) stitches remain — 8 MC and 8 CC.
At this point, cut the CC yarn leaving a 12-inch tail. Thread the CC tail onto a tapestry needle and draw it through all CC stitches, pulling snugly to close the inner layer’s tip. Do the same with the MC yarn for the outer layer’s tip.
Finishing the Pointed Tip
The pointed tip is one of the most charming details of this hat, and finishing it cleanly makes a noticeable difference in the final appearance. After closing both layers’ tip stitches, turn the hat inside out to check that the inner tip is tucked neatly and not pulling to one side. Use a few small stitches with the tapestry needle to tack the inner and outer tip together from the inside, which prevents the tip from flopping over.
If you want a more pronounced, stiffened point — especially beautiful for dressing up the hat for seasonal occasions — you can insert a small amount of polyfill stuffing or a folded square of stiff interfacing into the tip cavity before tacking it closed. This gives the hat a truly sculptural, fairytale quality.
Finishing the Brim
Weave in all ends securely, ensuring that the MC and CC yarn tails at the separation round are woven in on their respective sides so they remain invisible from both the outside and the inside.
Block the hat by soaking it in cool water, gently pressing out excess moisture, and placing it on a hat form or an inflated balloon to dry. Blocking evens out the stitches, softens the fabric, and helps the double-knitted body lie flat and smooth on both sides.
How to Wear the Reversible Elf-burgh Bonnet
The beauty of this hat is its versatility. Wearing it with the MC (outer) layer facing out gives you the look of your primary color choice — perhaps a rich forest green, a deep burgundy, or a natural undyed wool. Reaching up, grasping the pointed tip, and pulling the hat through itself reverses it completely, now showing the CC (inner) layer in all its glory.
The brim sits beautifully either way because the ribbing creates a symmetrical, polished edge on both sides. Wear it pushed back on the head for a relaxed, casual look, or pull it down snugly over the ears for full warmth on the coldest days. The pointed tip can stand upright, bend whimsically to one side, or be folded over and tacked with a small brooch or wooden button for a different silhouette entirely.
Yarn Color Pairing Ideas
Choosing the right color combination makes this hat feel truly special. Here are some pairing ideas that work exceptionally well for the two-sided design.
A deep charcoal gray paired with a warm mustard yellow gives a sophisticated, autumnal combination that suits a wide range of skin tones. Forest green and cream feel naturally festive without being overtly themed to any single holiday. Navy blue and burnt orange create a bold, energetic contrast that younger wearers tend to love. For something more subtle, try two shades of the same color family — a dusty rose and a deeper mauve, for example, or a pale sky blue against a rich teal — for a tonal effect that feels elegant and understated.
Textural pairings are another wonderful option. Knitting one layer in a smooth, plied wool and the other in a slightly fuzzy mohair blend creates an interesting sensory contrast between the two sides. Just be sure both yarns are a similar weight so that one layer does not stretch or distort the other.
Customization Tips
Adjusting the Length: If you prefer a longer hat that drapes slightly past the ears, simply work more rounds in the body section before beginning the crown decreases. Adding one inch of length adds approximately 7 rounds at worsted gauge.
Adding Embellishments: A small pom-pom at the very tip, made in a third complementary color, is a delightful addition. Since the hat is reversible, choose a pom-pom that complements both sides — a natural cream or a deep neutral often works beautifully for this purpose.
Colorwork on the Body: If you are a more experienced knitter, consider adding a simple stranded colorwork band just above the brim — a row of small snowflakes, geometric diamonds, or simple Nordic-style motifs. This adds visual interest to the outer layer and gives the hat a wonderfully artisanal character.
Adjusting for Bulky Yarn: To knit this hat in a bulky yarn, use US size 10 or 10.5 needles, cast on 72 (80, 88) stitches, and expect gauge to run approximately 14 stitches per 4 inches. The finished hat will be noticeably thicker and warmer, which is wonderful for genuinely cold climates.
Gifting the Elf-burgh Bonnet
This hat makes a genuinely memorable handmade gift. Its playful silhouette appeals to children and adults alike, and the reversible feature means the recipient effectively receives two hats in one. Consider making a matching set in coordinating colors — perhaps a parent and child pair with the child’s hat in the smaller size and the parent’s in medium — using colors that complement each other so the set looks intentional when worn together.
Pair the finished hat with a handwritten card describing how to reverse it, so the recipient understands the full magic of what they are holding. Tuck it into a kraft paper bag with a small skein of yarn in one of the hat’s colors for an extra thoughtful touch.
Troubleshooting Common Issues
The two layers are sticking together: This usually means the yarn from one layer is accidentally crossing over during double knitting. Slow down on the next round and check that you are consistently bringing the opposite yarn to the back before knitting each stitch. After a few careful rounds, the separation becomes second nature.
The pointed tip is floppy: This is most commonly caused by loosening tension during the final decrease rounds. Try switching to DPNs earlier in the crown shaping to maintain tension on fewer stitches, and make sure to pull the yarn firmly when working the final decrease rounds.
The brim is flaring outward: Brim flare typically means the cast-on was too loose or the needle size is slightly large for the yarn. Try going down half a needle size for the brim ribbing only, or use a smaller needle for the cast-on alone before switching to your project needle for the body.
Uneven join at the brim: The separation round is the trickiest technical moment in this pattern. If your join looks uneven after blocking, a few small, invisible stitches with matching thread on the inside of the brim will tidy it up beautifully.
A Note on the Joy of Reversible Knitting
There is a particular kind of satisfaction in double knitting that single-layer projects simply cannot replicate. You are, in effect, knitting two garments simultaneously — each stitch you make contributes to two separate fabrics that are only revealed fully when the project is complete. It requires a degree of concentration, especially at first, but the rhythm of it becomes meditative surprisingly quickly. Many knitters who try double knitting for the first time describe a moment, usually somewhere in the middle of the body section, where the pattern clicks and the fingers move almost automatically.
The Reversible Elf-burgh Bonnet Hat is the perfect vehicle for experiencing that joy. It is large enough to give you plenty of practice with the technique before the critical moments of the crown shaping, and small enough to complete in a few dedicated knitting sessions rather than months of work. It rewards patience and attention to detail, and it repays you with a finished object that genuinely delights people whenever they see it.
Whether you are knitting it for yourself, for someone you love, or simply for the pleasure of making something beautiful and a little bit magical, this pattern is a wonderful addition to your collection. Cast on with good yarn, take your time with the details, and enjoy every stitch.
Happy knitting, and may your points always be perfectly shaped.
