Portland Raglan Dog Sweater: Free Knitting Pattern for Every Pup
There is something deeply satisfying about knitting a sweater for your dog. You choose the yarn, you control the fit, and when your pup trots out the door looking cozy and stylish, you get to say you made that. The Portland Raglan Dog Sweater is one of those patterns that rewards the effort in every possible way. It is a seamless, top-down raglan construction — the kind that knitters love because it works up fast, fits beautifully, and gives you almost no finishing work at the end. Whether your dog is a wiry little terrier or a barrel-chested bulldog, this pattern is built to be adjusted, and this guide will walk you through every single step.
Let us get into it.
Why the Raglan Construction Works So Well for Dogs
Before you cast on a single stitch, it helps to understand why a raglan is such a smart choice for canine knitwear. A raglan sweater gets its name from the diagonal seam lines that run from the underarm to the neckline, creating a continuous piece of fabric that drapes naturally over rounded shoulders. Dogs have a similar challenge — their front legs sit at an angle from their body, and their shoulders are wide relative to their neck. A traditional set-in sleeve can feel restrictive and often pulls awkwardly. A raglan, by contrast, moves with the dog.
Working top-down means you begin at the neck and knit outward and downward, increasing at four raglan points along the way. This gives you a garment that you can try on your dog as you go, checking the sleeve depth and body circumference before you ever commit to binding off. For pet knitters, that kind of live fitting is invaluable because dogs cannot ask you to make the armhole a little deeper.
The Portland Raglan is also worked in the round, so there are no seams running up the sides where they could rub against your dog’s skin. This is particularly important for dogs with short or sensitive coats.
About the Portland Raglan Style
The name Portland is a nod to the Pacific Northwest spirit — practical, a little artsy, and built to handle rain. This sweater features a clean stockinette body with optional seed stitch borders at the neck, hem, and leg openings. There is a short belly band section that can be made as wide or narrow as you like, and the neckline sits high enough to keep a dog warm without restricting their breathing or movement. Think of it as the canine equivalent of a classic crewneck pullover: unfussy, versatile, and just stylish enough to turn heads at the dog park.
Materials You Will Need
Yarn: Approximately 150 to 500 yards of worsted weight yarn, depending on your dog’s size. A washable wool or wool-blend works beautifully — look for something machine-washable if you are knitting for a dog who loves mud. Cascade 220 Superwash, Paintbox Simply DK held double, and Lion Brand Wool-Ease are all excellent choices. Avoid anything too scratchy or that pills excessively, because dogs cannot take off a sweater if they are uncomfortable.
Needles: US Size 7 (4.5mm) 16-inch or 24-inch circular needles, plus a set of double-pointed needles or a longer circular for magic loop if you prefer. You may want a second shorter circular or a set of DPNs for the neck section, which starts quite small.
Notions: Stitch markers (at least four), a tapestry needle for weaving in ends, locking stitch markers or scrap yarn for holding stitches, measuring tape, scissors.
Gauge: 20 stitches and 26 rows per 4 inches in stockinette stitch. Gauge matters more for dog sweaters than many knitters expect — a garment that is even half an inch off in circumference can be the difference between a sweater that fits and one that your dog refuses to wear because it is too tight across the chest.
Sizing and How to Measure Your Dog
This pattern is written in five sizes, which we will call XS, S, M, L, and XL for convenience.
To measure your dog, you will need three numbers: neck circumference, chest circumference (the widest point just behind the front legs), and back length (from the base of the neck to the base of the tail). It also helps to measure the leg depth — the distance from the top of the shoulder to where the leg meets the body — because this determines when you set off the sleeve stitches.
Here are approximate finished measurements for each size:
XS suits dogs with a chest of 10 to 12 inches, such as Chihuahuas or small toy breeds. Back length approximately 8 inches.
S suits dogs with a chest of 13 to 16 inches, such as small terriers, Dachshunds, or miniature Dachshunds. Back length approximately 10 to 12 inches.
M suits dogs with a chest of 17 to 20 inches, such as Cocker Spaniels, Beagles, or French Bulldogs. Back length approximately 12 to 14 inches.
L suits dogs with a chest of 21 to 26 inches, such as Border Collies, Labradoodles, or medium mixed breeds. Back length approximately 14 to 18 inches.
XL suits dogs with a chest of 27 to 32 inches, such as Labradors, Golden Retrievers, or larger breeds. Back length approximately 18 to 22 inches.
Because every dog is shaped differently, view these as starting points rather than guarantees. The beauty of working top-down is that you can measure as you go.
Abbreviations and Stitch Guide
CO: Cast on
k: Knit
p: Purl
k2tog: Knit two stitches together (right-leaning decrease)
ssk: Slip, slip, knit (left-leaning decrease)
M1R: Make one right (right-leaning increase)
M1L: Make one left (left-leaning increase)
pm: Place marker
sm: Slip marker
BO: Bind off
RS: Right side
WS: Wrong side
St st: Stockinette stitch
Seed st: Alternate knit and purl stitches, reversing them each row so that knits sit over purls and purls sit over knits
The Pattern
Neckband
Using the smaller needle or a tighter cast-on method, cast on the following number of stitches:
XS: 32 sts | S: 36 sts | M: 40 sts | L: 48 sts | XL: 56 sts
Join to work in the round, being careful not to twist. Place a beginning-of-round marker.
Work in seed stitch for 6 rounds (or 8 rounds for L and XL) for the neckband. Seed stitch in the round is simply: [k1, p1] around on odd rounds, [p1, k1] around on even rounds.
Setting Up the Raglan
Next round (setup): This round establishes the four raglan sections — two sleeve sections and two body sections. Work as follows:
k2 (right back raglan marker), pm, k to marker position for right sleeve, pm, k across the back, pm, k to left sleeve marker, pm, k to end.
For each size, the stitch distribution after setup should look like this (Back sts / Sleeve sts / Front sts / Sleeve sts):
XS: 8 / 4 / 8 / 4 (plus 4 raglan sts, 2 on each side) — 32 total
S: 10 / 4 / 10 / 4 — 36 total
M: 12 / 4 / 12 / 4 — 40 total
L: 14 / 6 / 14 / 6 — 48 total
XL: 16 / 8 / 16 / 8 — 56 total
The raglan stitch sits between each marker and is always worked as a single knit stitch. Increases happen on each side of all four raglan stitches.
Raglan Increase Round
Round 1 (increase): Knit to 1 st before marker, M1R, k1 (raglan st), sm, k1, M1L; repeat from 3 more times, knit to end of round.
This increases 8 stitches per round — 2 at each of the four raglan points.
Round 2: Knit all stitches.
Repeat these two rounds until you reach the following total stitch counts:
XS: 80 sts (after approximately 6 increase rounds)
S: 100 sts (after approximately 8 increase rounds)
M: 120 sts (after approximately 10 increase rounds)
L: 144 sts (after approximately 12 increase rounds)
XL: 168 sts (after approximately 14 increase rounds)
At this point, try the work on your dog if you can. The sleeve depth — the distance from the neckband to the marker — should reach just to where the front leg begins. If you need more depth, work additional increase rounds.
Separating the Sleeves
When the sleeve depth is correct, it is time to set the sleeve stitches aside and join the body into one continuous piece.
Separation round: Knit across the back to the first sleeve marker. Remove marker. Place the sleeve stitches onto a holder or scrap yarn — this is the right sleeve. Using backward loop cast-on, cast on the following stitches for the underarm:
XS: 4 sts | S: 4 sts | M: 6 sts | L: 6 sts | XL: 8 sts
Continue knitting across the front to the next sleeve marker. Remove marker. Place the second sleeve stitches onto a holder. Cast on the same number of underarm stitches. Knit to the end of the round.
You now have only the body stitches on your needle, plus the cast-on underarm stitches. The total body stitch counts should now be approximately:
XS: 40 sts | S: 52 sts | M: 64 sts | L: 78 sts | XL: 94 sts
Knitting the Body
Knit in the round in stockinette stitch until the body measures the following from the underarm:
XS: 4 inches | S: 5 inches | M: 6 inches | L: 8 inches | XL: 10 inches
Or until the body reaches the hips of your dog — measure as you go, because back length varies enormously between individual dogs even of the same size class.
Belly Band: Many dogs — particularly those with deep, narrow chests like Whippets or Dachshunds — benefit from a belly panel that keeps the sweater anchored without constricting the belly. After the body reaches approximately two-thirds of its desired length, you can work short rows across the back only for an additional inch or two to create extra length along the spine. This is optional but highly recommended for long-bodied breeds.
Work seed stitch for 8 rounds (or 10 rounds for L/XL) for the hem. Bind off loosely in pattern.
Finishing the Leg Openings
Return the sleeve stitches to your needles. Pick up and knit the underarm cast-on stitches, joining them to the held sleeve stitches. Place a marker for the beginning of the round.
For a simple, tidy leg band: Work in seed stitch for 6 rounds, then bind off loosely in pattern. The leg bands should be snug enough to stay put without binding — check that you can easily slide two fingers between the band and your dog’s leg.
For XS and S sizes, you may find the leg sections easier to work on DPNs or magic loop.
Weaving In and Blocking
Weave in all ends thoroughly, especially the underarm join, which sees the most stress. Soak the finished sweater in cool water with a small amount of wool wash, press out the water in a towel without wringing, and block to your dog’s measurements. Allow to dry flat, then do a final fit check before giving it to your dog to wear.
Customizing the Portland Raglan
One of the joys of a simple pattern like this is how much room it leaves for creative decisions.
Color and stripes: Because you are working in the round, adding a stripe is as simple as switching yarn at the beginning of a round. Self-striping or hand-dyed yarn creates beautiful results with zero extra effort.
Cable panel: If you want a more textured look, substitute a 6-stitch cable panel down the center of the back for the same number of stockinette stitches. A simple 2×2 cable crossing every 6 rounds looks elegant and works up quickly.
Colorwork: The body section of this sweater is an excellent canvas for a simple Fair Isle yoke or a small motif chart on the back. Keep colorwork to the body rather than the sleeve area, which needs to be stretchy.
Longer body: For cold-weather dogs or hairless breeds, simply continue knitting the body past the hip to create a longer, more protective coat.
Tips for Getting the Best Fit
Dogs are not cooperative fitting models. Getting the proportions right is partly about careful measurement and partly about knowing your dog. A few things to keep in mind as you work through this pattern.
Dogs who are barrel-chested, like Bulldogs and Pugs, often need a few extra increase rounds beyond what the standard size calls for. The chest circumference matters more for these breeds than the back length, so prioritize that measurement when deciding where to stop increasing.
Deep-chested, narrow dogs like Greyhounds and Whippets need the opposite adjustment — fewer increases for circumference, but a much longer body. The belly band short-row option was designed with exactly these breeds in mind.
Puppies grow fast. If you are knitting for a young dog, consider sizing up and adjusting the body length so the sweater lasts through at least one growth spurt.
Always try the sweater on the dog before binding off. A live garment is much easier to adjust than a finished one.
Yarn Recommendations for the Pacific Northwest Climate
Portland winters are famously damp rather than deeply cold. That means you want a yarn that insulates even when wet, which rules out most pure cottons and acrylics. Superwash merino wool hits all the right notes — it is soft against skin, it regulates temperature, it dries reasonably quickly, and it can go in the washing machine on a gentle cycle, which is essential for anything a dog wears regularly.
For smaller dogs who spend a lot of time outdoors, a wool-nylon blend adds durability. For dogs who are prone to overheating but still need a layer on chilly mornings, a fine mohair held together with a single strand of fingering weight creates a beautifully lightweight fabric.
Caring for a Hand-Knit Dog Sweater
Hand-knit items last significantly longer when they are washed gently and dried flat. Turn the sweater inside out before washing to protect the surface, and use a mesh bag if machine washing. Avoid the dryer entirely — the heat can shrink wool and break down the fibers over time. Store the sweater folded rather than hung, which can stretch it out of shape.
Check the leg openings every few weeks and make sure they are not becoming tight as your dog’s coat thickens in winter. A quick tug test — being able to slide two fingers under the band comfortably — takes only a moment and can prevent discomfort before it becomes a problem.
Final Thoughts
The Portland Raglan Dog Sweater is a genuinely satisfying knit. It is accessible enough for a confident beginner who has worked in the round before, and interesting enough to hold the attention of an experienced knitter who wants a quick, functional project. The seamless construction means a comfortable garment, the adjustability means a well-fitting one, and the clean design means it will look just as good in photographs as it does on your actual dog.
Cast on, check your gauge, measure your pup twice, and enjoy the process. There is no better way to spend a rainy Portland evening than knitting something warm for a creature who has absolutely no idea how much work went into it and will love it completely anyway.
