Norwegian Mittens for Mimi: Free Knitting Pattern
There is something quietly magical about a pair of hand-knitted mittens. They carry warmth in the most literal sense, yes, but also something harder to name — the warmth of time spent, of yarn chosen with care, of a pattern followed stitch by stitch until two small wearable pieces of art emerge from your needles. If you have been searching for a free knitting pattern that honors the rich tradition of Scandinavian colorwork while still being approachable enough for an intermediate knitter, then this Norwegian Mittens for Mimi pattern is exactly what you have been looking for.
This pattern is designed with love, crafted to produce a pair of mittens that feature classic Norwegian-style stranded colorwork, a snug and flattering fit, and enough creative room to make them your own. Whether you are knitting these mittens as a gift for someone special or treating yourself to a deeply satisfying project, this guide will walk you through every detail you need to get started, work through the pattern, and finish with a pair of mittens you will be genuinely proud of.
A Brief History of Norwegian Colorwork Knitting
Before we dive into the pattern itself, it is worth pausing to appreciate where this style of knitting comes from. Norwegian knitting, often called Selbu knitting after the town of Selbu in central Norway, has a history stretching back to the mid-nineteenth century. The distinctive patterns — snowflakes, eight-pointed stars, reindeer, geometric diamonds — became internationally recognized symbols of Norwegian craft culture, worn by everyone from farmers and fishermen to royalty.
Traditional Selbu mittens are always worked in two colors, most commonly black and white or natural undyed wool tones, using a technique called stranded colorwork or Fair Isle knitting (though Fair Isle technically refers to a Scottish tradition). The technique involves carrying two yarn colors across the back of the work, knitting with one color at a time and creating the characteristic floats on the wrong side.
The “Mimi” in this pattern’s name is a nod to the spirit of the knitter — someone with personality, warmth, and a love of things made well. These mittens are designed with a slightly updated silhouette and a flexible color approach, so you can stick with classic black and cream or go bold with whatever palette calls to you.
What You Will Need
Yarn
For a pair of adult mittens in a medium size, you will need approximately 100 grams of fingering-weight or sport-weight wool yarn in your main color (MC) and approximately 60 grams in your contrasting color (CC). Traditional Norwegian patterns call for 100% wool, and for good reason — wool’s natural loft, elasticity, and moisture-wicking properties make it ideal for cold-weather accessories. Look for a yarn with some grip to it, as this helps the floats stay tidy and gives the colorwork sharp definition.
Some excellent yarn choices include Rauma Finullgarn (a classic Norwegian fingering weight), Sandnes Garn Peer Gynt, or any worsted-ish single-ply or two-ply wool you love working with. If you prefer something more readily available, Lion Brand Fishermen’s Wool or Cascade 220 both work beautifully.
Needles
You will need a set of double-pointed needles (DPNs) in US size 2 (2.75mm) and US size 3 (3.25mm), or the equivalent in metric. You can also work these on two circular needles or with the magic loop method if you prefer — the pattern works for any small-circumference knitting method.
Other Supplies
A stitch marker, a yarn needle for weaving in ends, a small length of scrap yarn for placing the thumb stitches on hold, and a ruler or gauge swatch are all you will need beyond the yarn and needles.
Gauge
Getting gauge right is especially important in colorwork mittens. Because you are working with two strands of yarn, the fabric tends to pull in slightly, and an off gauge can mean the difference between a mitten that fits and one that goes straight to the gift pile for a child.
With the larger needles (US 3 / 3.25mm) in stranded colorwork, you should aim for 28 stitches and 36 rounds to 4 inches (10 cm). With the smaller needles in stockinette, aim for 30 stitches and 38 rounds to 4 inches.
Knit a gauge swatch before you begin. It is not glamorous advice, but it is honest advice, and your finished mittens will thank you for it.
Sizing
This pattern is written for an adult medium, which fits most women’s hands and smaller men’s hands comfortably.
Hand circumference approximately 7.5 inches (19 cm)
Hand length from wrist to tip of middle finger approximately 7 inches (18 cm)
Thumb length approximately 2.5 inches (6 cm)
To size up, simply add stitches in multiples of the pattern repeat (which is 8 stitches wide) and adjust the length instructions accordingly. To size down, reduce stitches in the same way.
The Pattern
Abbreviations
CO = cast on
MC = main color
CC = contrasting color
k = knit
k2tog = knit two together (right-leaning decrease)
ssk = slip, slip, knit (left-leaning decrease)
pm = place marker
sm = slip marker
M1R = make one right
M1L = make one left
dpn = double-pointed needle
rnd = round
rep = repeat
Cast On and Cuff
Using smaller DPNs and MC, cast on 56 stitches using a long-tail cast on. Divide evenly across four needles (14 stitches per needle) and join to work in the round, being careful not to twist.
Work in k2, p2 ribbing for 2.5 inches (approximately 22 rounds). The ribbing forms a snug, stretchy cuff that holds the mitten close to the wrist, which is both warm and traditional in Norwegian construction.
After completing the ribbing, switch to your larger needles.
Wrist Pattern
Rounds 1–16: Begin the lower wrist colorwork chart. This section features a classic diagonal diamond lattice worked in MC and CC. The 8-stitch repeat is worked 7 times around (56 stitches total).
The chart reads as follows. Each round is worked from right to left, as you are always working in the round.
Wrist Chart (8-stitch repeat, 16 rounds)
Round 1: k6 MC, k2 CC rep to end
Round 2: k1 MC, k2 CC, k5 MC rep to end
Round 3: k2 MC, k2 CC, k4 MC rep to end
Round 4: k3 MC, k2 CC, k3 MC rep to end
Round 5: k4 MC, k2 CC, k2 MC rep to end
Round 6: k5 MC, k2 CC, k1 MC rep to end
Round 7: k6 MC, k2 CC rep to end
Round 8: k7 MC, k1 CC rep to end
Round 9: k6 MC, k2 CC rep to end
Round 10: k5 MC, k2 CC, k1 MC rep to end
Round 11: k4 MC, k2 CC, k2 MC rep to end
Round 12: k3 MC, k2 CC, k3 MC rep to end
Round 13: k2 MC, k2 CC, k4 MC rep to end
Round 14: k1 MC, k2 CC, k5 MC rep to end
Round 15: k2 CC, k6 MC rep to end
Round 16: k1 CC, k7 MC rep to end
This creates a chevron or braided diamond effect that is characteristic of Norwegian wrist patterning. After completing the 16 rounds, work 2 rounds in MC only before beginning the thumb gusset.
Thumb Gusset
The thumb gusset is worked on the palm side of the right mitten (left-hand side of the work for the left mitten). It is placed after the first stitch of the round.
Round 1 (setup): k1, pm, M1R in MC, k1 CC, M1L in MC, pm, knit to end of round. You now have 3 stitches between the gusset markers.
Continue working the body of the mitten in a two-color check or seed pattern (alternating single stitches of MC and CC in a checkerboard arrangement) while increasing inside the gusset markers as follows:
Increase round: k1, sm, M1R, knit across gusset stitches in alternating colors, M1L, sm, knit to end.
Repeat the increase round every 3rd round until you have 19 stitches between the gusset markers (approximately 8 increase rounds total).
On the next round, work to the first gusset marker, remove marker, place the 19 gusset stitches on a length of scrap yarn, remove second marker, cast on 1 stitch over the gap using backward loop cast on in MC, and continue knitting to end of round. You are back to 56 stitches on the needles.
Hand and Main Colorwork Chart
This is the heart of the pattern — the main snowflake or star panel that gives Norwegian mittens their iconic look.
Work the following 24-round chart across all 56 stitches. The 8-stitch repeat is worked 7 times around.
Main Chart (8-stitch repeat, 24 rounds)
Round 1: knit all in MC
Round 2: k1 MC, k3 CC, k1 MC, k3 CC rep
Round 3: k2 MC, k1 CC, k1 MC, k1 CC, k3 MC rep
Round 4: k3 MC, k1 CC, k4 MC rep
Round 5: k2 MC, k1 CC, k1 MC, k1 CC, k3 MC rep
Round 6: k1 MC, k3 CC, k1 MC, k3 CC rep
Round 7: knit all in MC
Round 8: k4 CC, k4 MC rep
Round 9: k1 MC, k2 CC, k2 MC, k2 CC, k1 MC rep
Round 10: k2 MC, k1 CC, k4 MC, k1 CC rep (yes, the repeat slightly shifts — center the motif carefully here)
Round 11: k1 MC, k2 CC, k2 MC, k2 CC, k1 MC rep
Round 12: k4 CC, k4 MC rep
Round 13: knit all in MC
Round 14: k1 MC, k3 CC, k1 MC, k3 CC rep
Round 15: k2 MC, k1 CC, k1 MC, k1 CC, k3 MC rep
Round 16: k3 MC, k1 CC, k4 MC rep
Round 17: k2 MC, k1 CC, k1 MC, k1 CC, k3 MC rep
Round 18: k1 MC, k3 CC, k1 MC, k3 CC rep
Round 19: knit all in MC
Round 20: k2 MC, k4 CC, k2 MC rep
Round 21: k1 MC, k2 CC, k2 MC, k2 CC, k1 MC rep
Round 22: k3 CC, k2 MC, k3 CC rep
Round 23: k1 MC, k2 CC, k2 MC, k2 CC, k1 MC rep
Round 24: k2 MC, k4 CC, k2 MC rep
After completing the 24-round chart, you may choose to work a second complete repeat for extra hand length, or move directly into the crown decreases depending on your hand measurement.
Crown Decreases
The crown is shaped with paired decreases that taper the mitten to a rounded point — a softer finish than a traditional flat top, and easier to work.
Switch to MC only for the crown.
Setup round: k14, pm, k28, pm, k14.
Decrease round: k to 2 sts before marker, k2tog, sm, ssk rep twice, k to end. You decrease 4 stitches per decrease round.
Work decrease round every other round twice, then every round until 8 stitches remain. Break yarn, thread through remaining stitches, pull tight, and secure on the inside.
Thumb
Return the 19 held thumb stitches to your DPNs. Pick up and knit 3 stitches from the gap at the base of the thumb (over the cast-on stitch). You will have approximately 22 stitches.
Work the thumb in a simple two-color check (alternating MC and CC every stitch in a checkerboard) for approximately 2 inches, or until the work reaches just below the tip of the thumb.
Decrease for the thumb tip as follows: k2tog around until 8 stitches remain. Break yarn and draw through stitches as for the mitten top.
Second Mitten
Work the second mitten exactly as the first, but place the thumb gusset on the opposite side (after the 28th stitch of the round rather than the 1st) to create a left-hand mitten that mirrors the right.
Finishing
Weave in all ends carefully using a yarn needle. For colorwork knitting, it is best to weave ends into the floats on the wrong side rather than into the knit fabric itself — this prevents the ends from showing through on the right side.
Block your mittens by soaking them in cool water with a small amount of wool wash, gently pressing out excess water in a towel, and reshaping them to the correct dimensions before laying flat to dry. Blocking will even out the tension in the colorwork and make the pattern pop.
Tips for Success with Norwegian Colorwork
Working stranded colorwork for the first time can feel a little intimidating, but a few simple habits make it much easier. First, always carry the MC and CC consistently — keep one color always over your left index finger and the other always over the right, or use whatever hold ensures you always pick up the same color from the same position. This keeps the floats tidy and the pattern crisp.
Second, try not to pull your floats too tight. Tugging the carried yarn snug after every stitch is a common beginner mistake that makes colorwork pull in and the fabric lose its stretch. Let the floats travel loosely across the back — you can spread the working stitches on your right needle to help with this.
Third, catch long floats. Any float that travels more than 5 stitches should be caught by twisting the carried yarn around the working yarn once on the back of the work. This prevents long loops inside the mitten that can catch on fingers.
Finally, if your gauge feels uncomfortably tight when working with two strands, go up a needle size. The beauty of mittens is that a little extra size is easy to compensate for with good finishing and blocking.
Personalizing Your Mimi Mittens
One of the greatest pleasures of knitting your own mittens is the freedom to make choices that store-bought accessories never offer you. You might choose a rich burgundy and cream palette for a vintage Scandinavian look, or go for a stormy charcoal and pale blue to evoke a winter sky. Deep forest green and natural undyed cream makes a pair that feels like the Norwegian woods themselves.
You can also swap out the main colorwork chart for any traditional Selbu star or snowflake pattern — there are many wonderful charted designs available in knitting books and online. As long as the repeat fits your stitch count, the construction stays exactly the same.
Adding a length of ribbing at the base before the thumb gusset will make the mitten more of a gauntlet style. Working the cuff in the CC instead of the MC gives a different look to the finished piece. Small embellishments like a sewn-on button or a strand of decorative yarn worked into the ribbing are easy additions that make each pair uniquely yours.
A Pattern Worth Returning To
Norwegian Mittens for Mimi is the
