Knitted Traveling Cable Fingerless Gloves [FREE Pattern]

There is something deeply satisfying about a pair of fingerless gloves that actually fits the way you want it to, moves with your hands, and still looks impressive enough to wear out in public. The traveling cable design does all of that and more. The cables shift and twist across the hand in a way that looks complex but, once you understand the basic technique, becomes almost meditative to knit. This is a pattern you will want to make more than once — for yourself, for gifts, for anyone who admires them on your hands and immediately asks where you got them.

This free pattern is written for intermediate knitters who are comfortable with basic cable techniques. If you have never cabled before, do not let that stop you. Cables look intimidating but they are really just stitches worked out of order, and this pattern is a wonderful place to build that confidence.

Let’s get into everything you need to know before you cast on.

Why Fingerless Gloves?

Fingerless gloves have become a staple in the handknitting world for good reason. They keep your hands and wrists warm while leaving your fingers free for typing, texting, holding a coffee cup, or doing anything else that requires that little bit of dexterity that a full mitten or glove takes away. They are faster to knit than full gloves, which means they are a genuinely rewarding project — you can finish a pair in a weekend if you have a few solid hours to sit down with your needles.

The traveling cable design specifically adds a texture that makes these gloves look far more elevated than a basic ribbed cuff. The cable travels diagonally across the back of the hand, giving the glove a sense of movement and visual interest that photographs beautifully and holds up just as well in person.

Materials You Will Need

Before you start, gather everything together. There is nothing worse than getting three inches into a project and realizing you are missing something.

Yarn: Approximately 100–120 yards of a worsted weight yarn (one skein should be more than enough for both gloves). Look for a yarn with some elasticity — a wool or wool blend will give your cables good definition and help the gloves keep their shape over time. Superwash merino is an excellent choice if you want easy care. Cotton and cotton blends can work but tend to give you softer cable definition.

Needles: US size 7 (4.5mm) double-pointed needles, or a 9-inch circular needle if you prefer magic loop. If you find your knitting runs tight, size up. If it runs loose, size down. Always trust your gauge swatch over the needle size written on the pattern.

Cable needle: Any cable needle style will work — the hooked style, the straight style, or even a spare dpn in a pinch. Use whatever you feel most comfortable holding.

Stitch markers: You will need at least three — one for the beginning of round and two for marking the cable panel.

Tapestry needle: For weaving in ends at the finish.

Measuring tape

Gauge

Gauge: 20 stitches and 28 rows = 4 inches in stockinette stitch on US size 7 needles.

Please swatch. I know every knitter has heard this a thousand times and many of us skip it anyway, but gauge matters especially with gloves. A small difference in your gauge translates directly into a glove that is either too tight to get over your knuckles or too loose to stay on your wrist. Knit a swatch, wash and dry it the way you intend to wash the finished gloves, and measure it before casting on.

Sizing

This pattern is written in two sizes: Small/Medium and Large/Extra-Large.

Small/Medium is designed to fit a hand circumference of 7 to 8 inches measured around the widest part of the palm, excluding the thumb. Large/Extra-Large is designed for a hand circumference of 8.5 to 9.5 inches. The finished glove has approximately half an inch of negative ease, meaning it should feel snug and supportive on the hand.

All numbers for Large/Extra-Large are written in parentheses throughout the pattern. Where only one number appears, it applies to both sizes.

Abbreviations

CO — cast on
K — knit
P — purl
K2tog — knit two together (a right-leaning decrease)
M1L — make one left (a left-leaning increase)
M1R — make one right (a right-leaning increase)
PM — place marker
SM — slip marker
BOR — beginning of round
C4F — cable four front: slip two stitches to cable needle and hold in front, knit two, then knit two from cable needle
C4B — cable four back: slip two stitches to cable needle and hold in back, knit two, then knit two from cable needle
Rnd — round
St(s) — stitch(es)
Rep — repeat

Pattern Notes

These gloves are worked in the round from the bottom cuff upward. The traveling cable panel runs along the back of the hand. The thumb gusset is worked along the palm side and the thumb stitches are placed on hold before the hand continues to the finger opening edge.

The cable in this pattern travels diagonally by shifting one stitch to the left every few rounds using a combination of a cable cross and a decrease-increase pair. This is what gives it that moving quality rather than a straight vertical cable. Take a moment before you start to read through the cable section description a couple of times so you have a clear picture of the movement before your needles are in motion.

The Pattern

Cuff

CO 40 (48) stitches. Join to work in the round, being careful not to twist. PM for BOR.

Work 2×2 rib (K2, P2) for 2.5 inches. This creates a stretchy, neat cuff that will hug the wrist nicely without cutting off circulation.

Setting Up the Cable Panel

Round 1 (Setup): K10 (14), PM, K8, PM, K to end of round.

The 8 stitches between your two markers are your cable panel. The remaining stitches on either side form the palm and the rest of the hand back.

Round 2: K to first marker, SM, work Cable Setup Row across 8 stitches as follows — P1, K4, P1, K2 — SM, K to end.

Wait — let’s simplify this. For the cable panel, you will be working on a background of reverse stockinette (purl stitches on the right side) to make the cable pop forward visually. The setup round establishes this background.

Revised Setup Round: K to first marker, SM, P1, K4, P1, K2, SM, K to end.

This places your 4-stitch cable on a reverse stockinette background with 1 purl stitch framing each side.

Traveling Cable Pattern

The cable travels to the left across the panel over a series of rounds. Here is the full traveling cable sequence for the 8-stitch panel, which you will work between your markers.

Rounds 1–3: P1, K4, P1, K2.

Round 4 (Cable Cross Round): P1, C4F, P1, K2.

Rounds 5–7: P1, K4, P1, K2.

Round 8 (Travel Round): P1, C4F, M1L, K1, K2tog, P1, K1. This shifts the cable one stitch to the left.

Repeat this 8-round sequence until the cable has traveled across the panel to your desired position, then begin traveling it back to the right by substituting C4B for C4F and reversing the travel direction. The beauty of the traveling cable is that you can keep it moving across the back of the hand continuously, or you can hold it in one spot by simply repeating the first 7 rounds without the travel round.

For a clean, elegant look, work the cable traveling left for two full sequences, then travel it back right for two full sequences. This creates a subtle zigzag path across the back of the hand that reads as dynamic without being chaotic.

Thumb Gusset

The thumb gusset begins on the palm side of the glove after the cuff and setup rounds are complete.

Begin the gusset on the first stitch of the round (palm side). Place a new marker after the BOR marker, then place another marker 2 stitches later to mark the gusset stitches.

Gusset Round 1: SM, M1R, K2, M1L, SM, work to end in established pattern.

You now have 4 gusset stitches between your gusset markers.

Gusset Rounds 2–3: Work even in pattern, working gusset stitches as knit stitches.

Gusset Round 4: SM, M1R, K to next marker, M1L, SM, work to end.

Continue this way, adding 2 stitches to the gusset every 3 rounds, until you have 14 (16) gusset stitches between the markers. This will take roughly 18 to 21 rounds total, depending on your size.

Placing the Thumb Stitches on Hold

Work to the first gusset marker, remove marker, place the 14 (16) gusset stitches on a length of waste yarn or a stitch holder, remove the second gusset marker, CO 2 stitches over the gap using backward loop cast on, and continue working in the round in established pattern.

You now have 40 (48) stitches again on your needles, with the thumb stitches safely waiting on the holder.

Hand

Continue working the cable panel in established pattern and all other stitches in stockinette until the piece measures approximately 1 inch less than the desired length from thumb opening to finger opening. For most people, this means working until the glove reaches just below the first knuckle of the index finger. Try the glove on as you go — this is the great advantage of working in the round on dpns or a short circular.

Finger Opening Edge

Work 0.75 (1) inch of 2×2 rib across all stitches to create a neat, stretchy edge at the finger opening.

Bind off in rib: K2, slip both stitches back to left needle, K2tog through back loop, K1, repeat from to end, working purl stitches as purl throughout. This bind-off mirrors the rib and keeps the edge stretchy so it sits comfortably just below your fingers without digging in.

Thumb

Pick up the held 14 (16) thumb stitches onto your needles. Pick up and knit 4 stitches from the CO stitches over the thumb gap, placing a marker in the center of these picked-up stitches for your BOR. You will have 18 (20) stitches on your needles.

Work 5 rounds of 2×2 rib across all thumb stitches. Bind off in rib.

Weave in all ends, closing any small gaps at the thumb join with your tapestry needle as needed.

Finishing

Block your gloves by soaking them in cool water with a small amount of wool wash, gently squeezing out excess water without wringing, and laying them flat on a blocking mat or towel. Shape them to the correct dimensions and allow to dry completely. Blocking does remarkable things for cables — it evens out the stitches and lets the cable structure open up and show itself properly.

Tips for Success

Read the cable section before you start. Even if you are an experienced knitter, traveling cables have a slightly different rhythm than vertical cables. Walk through the logic of the travel round with your hands before you put yarn on your needles.

Use stitch markers generously. The more clearly you mark the beginning of round, the gusset, and the cable panel, the fewer mistakes you will make and the fewer rounds you will have to rip back.

Work both gloves at the same time if possible. If you are working on dpns, you can work two sets at once by alternating between them after each round. This eliminates second glove syndrome — that peculiar knitter’s affliction where the first glove is finished and beautiful and the second one never quite gets started.

Keep a row counter. The traveling cable has an 8-round repeat, and losing your place in the sequence is the most common source of mistakes. A simple row counter app on your phone or a physical click counter on your needle takes all the stress out of it.

Try it on constantly. Unlike sweaters or blankets, gloves let you try them on while they are still on the needles. Do this. It is one of the great pleasures of glove knitting and it will save you from finishing a glove that does not fit.

Yarn Suggestions

If you are looking for yarn recommendations, any smooth worsted weight with good stitch definition will serve this pattern beautifully. Malabrigo Rios is a wonderful superwash merino option with a gorgeous color range and excellent durability. Cascade 220 Superwash is a reliable, affordable classic that comes in an enormous range of colors and holds up beautifully to repeated wear. Lion Brand Wool-Ease is a budget-friendly option that is widely available and gives solid cable definition. For a luxury treat, Madelinetosh Tosh Merino Light held double would give these gloves a beautiful halo and extraordinary softness.

Avoid highly plied or tightly spun yarns that have no give — they make cable crosses stiff and awkward to work. Also avoid very loosely spun singles or yarns with a lot of halo (like a standard mohair) as they make it difficult to see what you are doing in the cable panel.

Making These Your Own

One of the best things about a pattern like this is how much room there is for personalization once you understand the structure. You can change the width of the cable panel, add a second traveling cable on the palm side for a more textured look, lengthen the cuff into a gauntlet style, or experiment with the rate at which the cable travels. If you want to add color, a simple stripe in the stockinette sections of the cuff pairs beautifully with a solid cable panel.

You can also adjust the length of the finger opening edge or skip the rib altogether and work a simple i-cord bind-off for a more polished, delicate look at the top of the glove.

If you make a pair from this pattern, share your finished gloves and tag your work so others can see how the traveling cable looks in different yarns and colorways. Seeing how different fiber choices and color decisions change the personality of a design is one of the most inspiring parts of being part of a knitting community.

Happy knitting — may your cables always cross cleanly and your gauge always be true.