Bindle Bag Knitting Pattern: Your Complete Guide to Crafting the Perfect Wanderer’s Tote
There is something deeply satisfying about a bag that tells a story before you even open it. The bindle bag — that beloved symbol of the wandering spirit, the tied bundle slung over a shoulder — translates beautifully into knitting, becoming a project that is as enjoyable to make as it is to carry. Whether you are a seasoned knitter looking for a weekend project or an intermediate crafter ready to stretch your skills, this bindle bag knitting pattern will walk you through everything you need to create a sturdy, charming, and thoroughly functional tote that carries both your essentials and a little bit of adventure.
In this guide, you will find a full bindle bag knitting pattern complete with materials, gauge, step-by-step instructions, finishing tips, and customization ideas. By the end, you will have a bag that looks handmade in the very best sense of the word.
What Is a Bindle Bag?
Before we dive into needles and yarn, it is worth appreciating where this design comes from. Traditionally, a bindle was a simple bundle of belongings tied to the end of a stick, carried by travelers, drifters, and anyone who needed to pack light and move fast. The classic image — a knotted cloth bag dangling from a stick over a hobo’s shoulder — has become a kind of folk icon, representing freedom, simplicity, and resourcefulness.
The knitted bindle bag takes that spirit and turns it into something wearable and practical. It typically features a gathered or drawstring top, a rounded or slightly structured base, and a long strap that can be worn over the shoulder or crossbody. Some versions lean whimsical, with playful stripes or novelty yarn; others are more refined, knitted in solid neutral tones with clean finishing. The pattern below sits comfortably in the middle — approachable, adaptable, and genuinely useful.
Materials You Will Need
Getting your materials right before you cast on will make the whole process smoother. Here is what this bindle bag knitting pattern calls for.
Yarn: Approximately 300–400 yards of worsted weight yarn (Category 4). A sturdy cotton or a cotton-acrylic blend works beautifully here because it holds its shape, washes well, and has a satisfying structure when knitted at the recommended gauge. Wool is also a lovely choice if you prefer a softer drape and are comfortable with hand-washing. For a beginner-friendly and budget-conscious option, look for a basic cotton worsted at your local craft store. You can use a single color or plan a striped design — we will talk about colorwork options later.
Needles: US size 7 (4.5mm) straight or circular needles, 16 inches or longer. You can also use double-pointed needles if you prefer to work the base in the round, though the pattern below keeps things simple with flat knitting joined at the seams.
Additional supplies: A tapestry or yarn needle for seaming and weaving in ends, stitch markers, a ruler or measuring tape, scissors, and optionally a wooden dowel or piece of driftwood about 12–14 inches long if you want to make a display-worthy bindle with the full stick-and-knot aesthetic.
Optional lining: A quarter yard of fabric in a coordinating color will make the bag sturdier and more polished on the inside. A medium-weight cotton canvas or quilting cotton works well.
Gauge
Gauge matters more in bag-making than many knitters expect, because a looser fabric will sag and lose its shape over time while a tighter fabric may feel stiff and inflexible.
For this pattern, aim for 18 stitches and 24 rows over 4 inches in stockinette stitch using worsted weight yarn and US size 7 needles. Swatch before you begin, and do not skip blocking your swatch — wet blocking a cotton or cotton-blend swatch gives you the most accurate measurement.
If your gauge is off, adjust your needle size accordingly. Going up a needle size will loosen your gauge; going down will tighten it. Getting gauge right here will ensure that your finished bag measures approximately 12 inches wide by 14 inches tall (before gathering), with a base diameter of about 5 inches.
Abbreviations
CO — Cast on
BO — Bind off
K — Knit
P — Purl
K2tog — Knit two stitches together (a right-leaning decrease)
SSK — Slip, slip, knit (a left-leaning decrease)
M1 — Make one (a lifted increase)
PM — Place marker
SM — Slip marker
RS — Right side
WS — Wrong side
St(s) — Stitch(es)
Rep — Repeat
Rnd(s) — Round(s)
Pattern Instructions
Part One: The Base
The base of the bindle bag is worked flat in a modified oval shape, then seamed together to create a rounded bottom that gives the bag its characteristic standing structure.
CO 12 sts using the long-tail cast on method. This gives you a clean, firm edge that will hold up well under the weight of the bag’s contents.
Row 1 (RS): K across. (12 sts)
Row 2 (WS): P across.
Row 3: K1, M1, K to last st, M1, K1. (14 sts)
Row 4: P across.
Row 5: K1, M1, K to last st, M1, K1. (16 sts)
Row 6: P across.
Continue in stockinette, working a M1 increase at each end of every RS row until you have 26 stitches on your needle, ending with a WS row.
Work even in stockinette (knit RS rows, purl WS rows) for 10 rows without any increases.
Now begin decreasing to mirror the increases:
Row 1 (RS): K1, K2tog, K to last 3 sts, SSK, K1. (24 sts)
Row 2 (WS): P across.
Continue decreasing in this way on every RS row until 12 sts remain. BO all sts.
This piece forms your oval base. Set it aside.
Part Two: The Body
The body of the bag is worked flat as a rectangle, then seamed along one side to form a tube, which is then attached to the base.
CO 54 sts.
Row 1 (RS): K across.
Row 2 (WS): P across.
Work in stockinette stitch until the piece measures 13 inches from the cast on edge, ending with a WS row.
At this point, if you want to add a textured band near the top of the bag, work 6 rows of seed stitch (alternating K1, P1 on RS rows and P1, K1 on WS rows) for a neat, non-rolling border. This is optional but adds a lovely finished look.
Eyelet Row for Drawstring: On the next RS row, work as follows:
K2, K2tog, YO, K2; rep from to last 2 sts, K2.
Work 3 more rows in stockinette or seed stitch, then BO loosely. A loose bind off is important here — if the top edge is too tight, the drawstring will not gather smoothly.
Part Three: Seaming the Body
Fold the body piece so the two short edges meet, with right sides facing each other. Using your tapestry needle and a length of yarn, seam the two edges together using mattress stitch for an invisible join. Mattress stitch is worked by picking up the bars between stitches on each edge alternately, pulling the yarn through every few stitches to tighten. The result is a seam that nearly disappears into the fabric.
Turn the tube right side out and gently flatten it so the seam sits at the center back.
Part Four: Attaching the Base
This is the step that many knitters find a little fiddly, but take your time and it will come together beautifully.
With right sides together, pin the oval base to the bottom of the body tube, distributing the fabric evenly around the circumference. The base is slightly smaller than the body opening — this is intentional, as the gentle gathering at the bottom gives the bag its roomy, rounded shape.
Using your tapestry needle and yarn, sew the base to the body using a whipstitch or backstitch, working slowly and easing the fabric as you go. Once the base is attached, turn the bag right side out and gently reshape it. The bottom should be rounded and stable; the body should flare slightly upward.
Part Five: The Drawstring
Cut two lengths of yarn approximately 60 inches each (or use a purchased cord, ribbon, or twisted cord in a coordinating color). Thread one length through the eyelet row from left to right, and the second from right to left, so each end exits from the same side it entered. Tie the ends of each cord together in an overhand knot or a decorative bow knot.
When you pull both cords simultaneously, the top of the bag gathers closed. For the signature bindle look, leave the cords long enough to tie around a stick or dowel when the bag is gathered up.
Part Six: The Strap
The strap is a simple I-cord worked on two double-pointed needles or a short circular needle.
CO 4 sts. Work I-cord as follows: Knit across, do not turn. Slide sts to the other end of the needle, pull the working yarn firmly behind the work, and knit across again. Repeat until the strap measures 48 inches, or your preferred length for a shoulder or crossbody strap.
BO all sts, leaving a 12-inch tail.
Attach one end of the strap to the upper left side of the bag body, just below the eyelet row, by threading the tail through several stitches in a secure figure-eight pattern. Repeat on the upper right side with the cast-on tail. Weave in all ends thoroughly.
Finishing
Weave in all remaining ends using your tapestry needle, burying the tails inside the fabric rather than just back through the same stitches — this holds them more securely over time. Give the bag a gentle wet block by soaking it in cool water for 10–15 minutes, pressing out excess water with a towel, and shaping it while damp. Allow it to dry completely before use.
If you are adding a fabric lining, cut a piece of fabric to match the body of the bag plus seam allowances, sew the side seam, fold and press the top hem, and slip stitch the lining inside the bag just below the eyelet row.
Customization Ideas
One of the great joys of working from a knitting pattern like this one is that it becomes a framework for your own creativity. Here are some ways to make your bindle bag entirely your own.
Stripes: Work the body in alternating stripes of 4 or 6 rows each using two or three colors. Carry the unused yarn up the side of the work rather than cutting it at each stripe to minimize ends.
Colorwork panels: If you are comfortable with stranded or intarsia colorwork, consider knitting a small motif into the center front of the bag body — a simple leaf, star, or geometric shape works beautifully.
Textured stitches: Swap out the stockinette body for a textured stitch pattern like seed stitch, moss stitch, or a simple rib. Keep in mind that heavily textured stitches can affect your gauge, so swatch accordingly.
Size adjustments: To make a smaller version suitable for children or for carrying just keys and a phone, cast on 36 stitches for the body and reduce the height to 9 inches. For a generously oversized market bag, cast on 72 stitches and work the body to 16 inches.
Fringe or tassels: Add a fringe along the base or tassels at the ends of the drawstring for a boho-inspired look.
Button closure: Skip the drawstring entirely and add a flap and button for a more structured, top-closing style.
Yarn Substitution Tips
The pattern calls for a worsted weight cotton or cotton blend, and while this is the recommended choice for structure and durability, you have real flexibility here. A wool-acrylic blend like Lion Brand Wool-Ease will give you a slightly softer, stretchier fabric that is still very sturdy. A 100% cotton like Paintbox Simply DK (using a slightly smaller needle) offers excellent stitch definition and a crisp, clean look. If you want something more rustic and earthy, a single-ply linen or linen-blend will age beautifully with use and develop a wonderful patina over time.
Avoid very slippery yarns like pure silk or bamboo for this project unless you are experienced with them — they are harder to seam neatly and the fabric tends to shift more than is ideal for a structured bag.
Care Instructions for Your Finished Bag
Cotton and cotton-blend bags can generally be machine washed on a gentle cycle in cool water. Reshape while damp and lay flat or hang to dry. Avoid the dryer if your yarn is a cotton-wool blend, as wool can felt with heat and agitation. If you have used a 100% wool yarn, hand wash in cool water with a gentle soap, press dry, and block flat.
If your bag has a fabric lining, check the lining fabric’s care instructions as well — most quilting cottons are machine washable, but it is worth confirming before your first wash.
Why Knit Your Own Bag?
In a world full of mass-produced totes and fast-fashion accessories, there is something quietly radical about knitting your own bag. It is slower, more intentional, and more personal than anything you will find on a store shelf. You chose the yarn — maybe it was the color of autumn leaves, or the particular way it felt between your fingers, or the fact that it came from a small indie dyer whose newsletter you have been reading for years. You put in the hours. You learned how to seam a base and thread a drawstring and weave in your ends without fraying the yarn.
The finished bindle bag carries all of that with it, even when no one else knows. And that, honestly, is what makes handknitted accessories so enduring.
Final Thoughts
This bindle bag knitting pattern is designed to be accessible enough for a knitter who has mastered the basics — casting on, knitting, purling, and simple increases and decreases — while offering enough detail and structure to keep more experienced knitters engaged. The finished bag is sturdy, roomy, and full of character. It works as a market bag, a beach tote, a project bag for your yarn and needles, or yes, tied to a stick for a camping trip where you want to lean fully into the wanderer aesthetic.
Cast on, take your time, and enjoy the process. The best part of any knitting pattern is not the finished object — it is every row between the first stitch and the last.
