Herringbone Bag Knitting Pattern – A Mama In A Stitch Guide
There is something deeply satisfying about knitting a bag from scratch. Unlike a sweater or a pair of socks, a finished bag lives outside your body — it travels with you, holds your things, becomes a small but constant companion in daily life. And when that bag features a herringbone stitch pattern, it becomes something else entirely: a tactile piece of textile art that people will stop to ask about at the grocery store, at school pickup, and anywhere else you carry it.
This herringbone bag knitting pattern is designed for knitters who are comfortable with the basics and ready to take on a project with a little more visual complexity. The herringbone stitch creates a dense, interlocking diagonal texture that is both gorgeous and practical — sturdy enough for an everyday tote, beautiful enough to use as a market bag, a project bag, or even a stylish everyday carry. Whether you are looking for a new favorite accessory or a meaningful handmade gift, this pattern delivers on every level.
Let’s walk through everything you need to know, from the materials and gauge to the stitch pattern and finishing details.
Why Herringbone Stitch Is Perfect for Bags
The herringbone stitch has a long history in woven textiles — you have likely seen it in tweed coats, upholstery, and tile floors. When translated into knitting, it creates a similar interlocking V-shape that mimics the skeletal structure of a herring fish, which is where the name originates. Each stitch creates a visual zigzag that builds into a bold, diagonal pattern across the fabric.
What makes this stitch particularly well-suited to bags is its density. Because of the way the stitches interlock, herringbone knitting produces a thicker, more structured fabric than a simple stockinette or garter stitch would. This means that the finished bag holds its shape beautifully without needing a stiff interfacing or an internal lining (though you can absolutely add one if you prefer). The fabric also has a slight stretch resistance, which is a real advantage for a bag that needs to hold its form when loaded with a water bottle, a wallet, and everything else a busy parent or creative person carries.
Beyond structure, herringbone stitch is simply visually stunning. The pattern rewards the eye, giving a handknit piece an elevated, almost architectural quality that elevates it far above the average tote. If you want to make a bag that looks intentional and sophisticated, this is the stitch to learn.
Materials You Will Need
Before you cast on, gather your supplies. Having everything ready before you begin will make the process much smoother and more enjoyable.
Yarn: You will need approximately 400–500 yards of a worsted weight yarn (Category 4) for a medium-sized bag. Cotton, cotton-blend, or linen yarn is highly recommended for this project because these fibers offer durability and structure, and they wash well — an important consideration for a bag that will see regular use. A tightly twisted yarn will show the herringbone pattern more crisply than a fluffy or loosely spun yarn. Popular choices include Lion Brand 24/7 Cotton, Paintbox Simply DK (held double), or any 100% cotton worsted you love working with.
Needles: US Size 7 (4.5mm) circular needles, at least 24 inches long. Circular needles are used here not because you are working in the round (you are working flat), but because the needle length gives you room to hold the stitches comfortably as the fabric grows wider. If you have a preference for a firmer fabric, size down to a US 6 (4.0mm). If you prefer a slightly drapier result, size up to a US 8 (5.0mm).
Notions: You will also want a tapestry needle for weaving in ends, stitch markers, scissors, and a tape measure. Optional but recommended: a row counter to keep track of your pattern repeats, especially when you are still learning the herringbone rhythm. If you plan to add interior structure or a lining, a half yard of fabric in a coordinating print and a sewing needle and thread will round out your supplies.
Handles: You can knit integrated handles as part of this pattern (detailed below), or purchase a set of bamboo, wooden, or leather bag handles to sew on after finishing. Pre-made handles are widely available online and at craft stores and can give your bag a polished, boutique feel with very little extra effort.
Gauge
Gauge matters more for bags than many knitters realize. While it is true that a slightly loose or tight gauge rarely ruins a bag the way it might ruin a fitted garment, your finished dimensions will vary significantly if your gauge is far off from what is listed here.
Gauge: 18 stitches and 24 rows = 4 inches in herringbone stitch on US 7 needles with worsted weight cotton yarn.
Always knit a swatch before beginning, and measure it flat and unblocked. If you are getting more stitches per inch, try going up a needle size. If you are getting fewer, try going down a needle size.
Understanding the Herringbone Stitch
If you have never worked herringbone stitch before, take a few minutes to practice before you dive into the full bag. The stitch is not difficult, but it has a unique motion that may feel unfamiliar at first. Once you get the rhythm, it flows beautifully.
The herringbone stitch is worked by knitting two stitches together but only slipping one stitch off the left needle, then working the remaining stitch on the left needle by itself before slipping it off. This creates the characteristic interlocking effect. On the purl side, you work a similar motion in reverse.
Here is the stitch pattern broken down row by row:
Setup Row (RS): Knit across normally. This is your base row.
Row 1 (RS – Herringbone Row): Insert the right needle into the first two stitches on the left needle as if to knit two together, knit them together, but slip only the first stitch off the left needle (leave the second stitch on the left needle). Knit into the remaining stitch on the left needle normally and slip it off. Repeat from to across to the last stitch, knit the last stitch normally.
Row 2 (WS – Purl Herringbone Row): Insert the right needle into the first two stitches as if to purl two together, purl them together, but slip only the first stitch off the left needle. Purl the remaining stitch normally and slip it off. Repeat from to across to the last stitch, purl the last stitch normally.
Repeat Rows 1 and 2 for the herringbone pattern.
A note about stitch count: the herringbone stitch naturally wants an even number of stitches plus one at each end as an edge stitch. This pattern is written with that consideration in mind, so your stitch counts will reflect that structure.
The Pattern
Finished Measurements
This pattern is written for a finished bag that measures approximately 13 inches wide by 14 inches tall (before handles), with a 3-inch gusset for depth. These dimensions make for a generous everyday tote. If you want a smaller bag, reduce your cast-on by 10 stitches on each side and work fewer rows. If you want a larger bag, add 10 stitches and more rows.
Cast On
Using US 7 needles and your chosen worsted weight cotton yarn, cast on 61 stitches using the long-tail cast on method. The long-tail cast on provides a sturdy, slightly elastic edge that will hold up well at the bottom of the bag.
If you are making a larger bag, cast on 71 stitches. For a smaller bag, cast on 51 stitches. All stitch counts in this pattern are odd numbers to accommodate the edge stitch structure of the herringbone pattern.
Bottom Panel
Work the Setup Row: Knit across all 61 stitches. This creates your foundation row.
Next, work 8 rows in garter stitch (knit every row). This garter section at the bottom of the bag adds structure and prevents the base from sagging over time. It also creates a clean visual line that separates the base from the herringbone body.
Main Body
Begin the herringbone stitch pattern as described above, working Row 1 and Row 2 alternately. Continue in herringbone pattern until the main body of the bag measures 11 inches from the top of the garter base (approximately 66 rows, depending on your gauge). End with a wrong side row completed.
At this point, you should have a beautiful slab of interlocking diagonal texture building up on your needles. The fabric will feel dense and satisfying, with a slightly padded quality that is characteristic of well-worked herringbone.
Top Edging and Handle Options
Once the main body has reached 11 inches, work 6 rows in garter stitch to create a clean, firm top edge. On the 7th row, you will either begin the handle section (for knitted handles) or bind off to prepare for sewn-on handles.
If using sewn-on handles: Bind off all 61 stitches loosely in knit on the next right side row. Use a stretchy bind off if your tension tends to be tight. Block the piece, seam the sides, and attach your handles following the manufacturer’s instructions using a tapestry needle and a length of yarn threaded through the handle holes or sewn around the handle base.
If knitting integrated handles: After the 6 garter rows, divide your stitches for the handles as follows. On the right side, knit 8 stitches, bind off the center 45 stitches, knit the remaining 8 stitches. You will now work each set of 8 handle stitches separately. For each handle strap: work in garter stitch (knit every row) on these 8 stitches for 16 inches, or until the strap reaches your desired length. Bind off loosely. Once both straps are complete, seam their ends together or to the opposite side of the bag top to form a loop handle.
Making the Second Panel
The bag is constructed from two identical panels seamed together, with an optional gusset. Work the second panel exactly as the first, following all the same instructions from cast on to bind off.
Alternatively, you can work the bag as a single continuous piece by casting on for the back panel, completing it, picking up stitches along the bottom, and working the front panel upward. This method reduces the number of seams and can feel more intuitive for knitters who dislike seaming.
Gusset (Optional)
For a bag with interior depth, pick up and knit stitches along one side edge of the assembled bag. Cast on 14 stitches (for a 3-inch gusset based on your gauge) and work in garter stitch for the full height of the bag. Seam this gusset strip to both side edges of the bag, then seam the bottom of the gusset to the bag base. Repeat on the other side. This step does require some patience, but it transforms a flat tote into a three-dimensional bag that stands upright and carries significantly more.
Seaming and Assembly
Once both panels are complete, block each piece before seaming. Wet blocking works especially well for cotton yarn: soak the panels in cool water for 10–15 minutes, gently press out the excess water in a towel (do not wring), and lay flat to dry. Blocking evens out your stitches and allows the herringbone pattern to relax into its full, beautiful texture. The difference between an unblocked and blocked herringbone panel is genuinely remarkable.
Once dry, seam the two panels together along both side edges and the bottom edge using mattress stitch or whip stitch. Mattress stitch creates an invisible seam on the right side of the fabric, which gives a clean, professional finish. Use a length of matching yarn approximately three times the length of the seam you are joining.
Customization Ideas
One of the great pleasures of knitting your own bag is the ability to make it entirely your own. Here are a few ideas to inspire you.
Color blocking is a beautiful way to use up partial skeins. Work the bottom garter section in one color and transition to a second color for the herringbone body. The garter stripe provides a natural visual break between colors.
Adding a pocket is easier than it sounds. Simply knit a small rectangular panel in garter or seed stitch, seam three sides to the inside of the bag, and you have a slip pocket for your phone, keys, or notions.
Varying the yarn weight changes the character of the bag entirely. A bulky weight yarn worked on larger needles produces a chunky, casual bag that knits up in an afternoon. A DK weight yarn worked on smaller needles creates a finer, more tailored piece that could easily double as a clutch or a travel bag.
Adding fringe or tassels at the bottom edge gives the bag a boho quality that pairs beautifully with the herringbone texture. Cut lengths of yarn twice your desired fringe length, fold in half, and use a crochet hook to loop them through the cast-on edge.
Tips for Working Herringbone Stitch
A few practical notes that will help you along the way.
It is easy to lose your place in the herringbone pattern, particularly in the early rows when you are still learning the rhythm. Using a row counter is genuinely helpful here. If you ever find yourself uncertain whether you are on a right side or wrong side row, look at the fabric — if the bold diagonal lines are facing you, you are on the right side.
Tension control is important in herringbone stitch. The technique of working two stitches together before slipping only one off the needle can cause the fabric to draw in slightly if you knit tightly. If you notice your fabric pulling horizontally, consciously relax your tension on the right needle as you work. Some knitters find it helpful to go up half a needle size specifically for this stitch.
Counting rows as you go will save you frustration later. The herringbone pattern has a distinctive look from both the right and wrong sides, and a simple tally mark on a sticky note can keep you honest about where you are in the overall pattern.
Finishing Touches
After seaming, weave in all your ends thoroughly using a tapestry needle. Cotton yarn can work its way loose over time, so it is worth weaving each end in two directions (once along the path of the yarn, and then back at a slight angle) to secure it firmly.
Give the assembled bag a final light blocking to help the seams lie flat. If you have added handles, stitch them securely with multiple passes of yarn so they can withstand the weight of a full bag.
If you would like an interior lining, cut two pieces of fabric slightly larger than your bag panels, sew them together along three sides with a half-inch seam allowance, fold down the top edge, and slip stitch the lining to the interior of the bag along the top edge. A lining not only adds a lovely finished quality but also prevents small items from slipping through any gaps in the knit fabric.
A Project Worth Making
This herringbone bag is the kind of project that rewards you at every stage — in the meditative rhythm of working the stitch, in the growing pleasure of watching the pattern emerge row by row, and in the deep satisfaction of carrying something beautiful that you made entirely with your own hands. It is a project that teaches you a versatile and visually striking stitch technique, results in a genuinely useful object, and produces a finished piece you will be proud to show and to give.
Whether this is your first textured bag pattern or your twentieth, the herringbone stitch has a way of making every knitter feel like they have accomplished something special. Cast on, settle in, and enjoy every single row.
If you make this bag, share it on social media with the tag #MamaInAStitch — I would love to see your finished projects and the beautiful yarn choices you make along the way. Happy knitting.
