How to Crochet a String Bag Tutorial
If you’ve been looking for a beginner-friendly project that’s both practical and stylish, you’ve come to the right place. A crocheted string bag — sometimes called a market bag, net bag, or mesh bag — is one of those timeless handmade pieces that never goes out of style. It’s eco-friendly, reusable, stretchy enough to carry a surprising amount of groceries, and completely customizable to your taste. Whether you’re a complete beginner picking up your first hook or an intermediate crocheter looking for a satisfying weekend project, this tutorial will walk you through every step of the process.
At Crochet Kingdom, we believe that learning to crochet should feel like an adventure, not a chore. So grab your favorite hook, pour yourself a cup of tea, and let’s make something beautiful together.
Why Crochet a String Bag?
Before we dive into the pattern, let’s talk about why a crocheted string bag deserves a spot on your project list.
First, it’s genuinely useful. Single-use plastic bags are increasingly being phased out around the world, and having a handmade bag ready in your purse or pocket is both practical and planet-friendly. A crocheted string bag rolls up into almost nothing when empty, so it fits easily into a handbag or backpack until you need it.
Second, it’s a great stitch practice project. The open mesh construction you’ll be using in this tutorial teaches you how to work with chain spaces, how to keep consistent tension across rows, and how to shape a bag from a flat base into a three-dimensional object — all skills that will serve you well in future projects.
Third, it’s endlessly customizable. Change the yarn weight, the hook size, the color, or the stitch pattern, and you get an entirely different result. The same basic pattern can produce a delicate lace-like bag in fine cotton or a chunky, bohemian carryall in thick jute twine.
Materials You Will Need
Let’s keep this simple. You don’t need a lot of supplies to get started.
Yarn: For a classic string bag, the best choice is a smooth, cotton or cotton-blend yarn in a DK or worsted weight. Cotton has very little stretch compared to acrylic, which means your bag will hold its shape and won’t deform under the weight of your groceries. A ball of approximately 200 to 250 yards will be more than enough for a standard market-sized bag. Jute twine also works beautifully if you prefer a more natural, rustic look.
Crochet Hook: For DK weight cotton, a 4mm or 4.5mm hook is a good starting point. For worsted weight, go up to a 5mm or 5.5mm hook. The goal with a mesh bag is to work at a slightly looser tension than you might for an amigurumi or a solid garment, so the finished bag has an open, flexible structure.
Scissors: Any pair will do.
Yarn Needle: You’ll need this for weaving in ends at the end of the project.
Stitch Marker: Optional but helpful for marking the beginning of rounds when you’re working in the round.
Understanding the Stitches
This pattern uses a small number of stitches, all of which are suitable for beginners. Here’s a quick rundown of everything you’ll encounter.
Chain (ch): The foundation of almost every crochet project. You make a slip knot, then draw the yarn through the loop on your hook to create each chain stitch.
Slip Stitch (sl st): A very short stitch used mainly to join rounds. You insert your hook, yarn over, and pull through both loops on your hook in one motion.
Single Crochet (sc): The most basic “real” stitch. Insert your hook, yarn over and pull up a loop, yarn over again and pull through both loops.
Double Crochet (dc): Taller than single crochet. Yarn over before inserting your hook, insert your hook into the stitch, yarn over and pull up a loop (you now have three loops on your hook), yarn over and pull through two loops, then yarn over and pull through the remaining two loops.
Chain Spaces (ch-sp): These are the gaps created by chains in a mesh pattern. When the pattern says “work into the chain space,” you insert your hook directly into that gap rather than into a specific stitch.
Gauge
For a string bag, gauge doesn’t need to be exact, but it’s worth doing a quick swatch to make sure your finished bag will be a reasonable size. Using worsted weight cotton and a 5mm hook, aim for roughly 14 double crochets and 8 rows to equal 4 inches in a standard double crochet fabric. If your swatch is tighter than this, go up a hook size. If it’s looser, go down a hook size.
The finished bag in this pattern will measure approximately 13 to 14 inches wide and 15 inches tall when laid flat and not stretched. When loaded with groceries, it stretches considerably more.
Pattern Abbreviations
ch — chain
sl st — slip stitch
sc — single crochet
dc — double crochet
ch-sp — chain space
rep — repeat
st — stitch
rnd — round
The Pattern: How to Crochet a String Bag
Step 1: Create the Base
The bag starts with a flat oval base, which gives it a bit of structure so your groceries don’t all fall to the center point.
Start by making a foundation chain of 16 stitches.
Round 1: Starting in the second chain from the hook, work 1 sc in each of the next 14 chains. Work 3 sc in the last chain (this is the turning corner). Now rotate your work and work 1 sc in each of the 14 remaining loops along the bottom of your foundation chain. Work 3 sc in the final chain (the other turning corner). You should have 34 stitches. Join with a slip stitch to the first sc to close the round.
Round 2: Chain 1 (this does not count as a stitch). Work 1 sc in each of the first 14 stitches. Work 2 sc in each of the next 3 stitches (the corner stitches). Work 1 sc in each of the next 14 stitches. Work 2 sc in each of the final 3 stitches. Join with a slip stitch. You should now have 40 stitches.
Round 3: Chain 1. Work 1 sc in each of the first 14 stitches. Work 2 sc in the first corner stitch, 1 sc in the next, 2 sc in the next, 1 sc in the next, 2 sc in the next. Work 1 sc in each of the next 14 stitches. Repeat the increase pattern for the other end. Join with a slip stitch. You should now have 46 stitches.
Don’t worry if your base lies perfectly flat — that’s exactly what you want. The three rounds of increases create a nicely rounded oval shape.
Step 2: Build the Sides With Mesh
Now comes the fun part. This is where the open mesh structure of the bag really develops, and where you’ll see your string bag starting to look like a string bag.
Round 4 (transition round): Chain 1. Work 1 sc in each stitch around. Join with a slip stitch. This round doesn’t add any increases — you’re just working straight around the edge of the base. This round creates a solid rim that holds the base’s shape as you transition to the mesh body.
Round 5 (begin mesh): Chain 4 (counts as 1 dc plus 1 chain). Skip 1 stitch. Work 1 dc in the next stitch, chain 1, skip 1 stitch. Repeat from to all the way around. Join with a slip stitch to the third chain of your starting chain-4.
You’ve just worked your first mesh round. The chain-1 spaces create those little gaps that give a string bag its characteristic look and stretch.
Rounds 6 through 20: Chain 4 (counts as 1 dc plus 1 chain). Work 1 dc in the next chain space, chain 1. Repeat from to all the way around, working into each chain space rather than into the top of the double crochets. Join with a slip stitch to the third chain of your starting chain-4 at the end of each round.
Repeat this round for a total of 16 mesh rounds (Rounds 5 through 20). This builds the main body of the bag. If you want a taller bag, simply add more rounds here. If you want a shorter, more compact tote style, work fewer rounds — 10 to 12 mesh rounds will give you a nice market bag height.
Step 3: Create the Rim
Once you’ve finished your mesh rounds, you’ll work a solid rim around the top of the bag. This gives the opening structure and makes it easier to attach the handles.
Round 21: Chain 1. Work 1 sc in the top of the first double crochet. Work 1 sc in the chain space. 1 sc in the next dc, 1 sc in the next chain space. Repeat from to all the way around. Join with a slip stitch. You should be back to roughly your original stitch count around the top of the bag.
Round 22: Chain 1. Work 1 sc in each stitch around. Join with a slip stitch.
Round 23: Chain 1. Work 1 sc in each stitch around. Join with a slip stitch.
Three rounds of solid single crochet creates a neat, sturdy top edge that handles the weight of a full bag without stretching out.
Step 4: Make the Handles
The handles are worked as separate chains that are then attached to the rim of the bag. This method is simple and produces strong, comfortable handles.
Fasten off your working yarn after completing the rim and weave in the end securely.
Handle 1: Rejoin your yarn at any point along the rim at the front of the bag. Chain 60 (or more if you want longer handles — 60 chains gives you a comfortable shoulder-length handle). Count approximately 20 stitches across the rim and join your chain to the rim with a slip stitch. This creates the first strap.
Now work back along the handle chain: 1 sc in each chain stitch all the way back to the starting point, and join with a slip stitch. This reinforces the handle and makes it much stronger and more comfortable to carry.
Handle 2: Rejoin your yarn on the opposite side of the bag directly across from Handle 1, and repeat the process.
If you prefer attached handles rather than chains, you can work them directly into the rim by working a series of double crochets down one side of the handle, chaining at the ends, and working back up. The chain handle method above is the most beginner-friendly option, however.
Step 5: Finishing
Weave in all remaining ends very securely using your yarn needle. Because this bag will be stretched and loaded with heavy items, it’s worth weaving each tail in multiple directions and even tying a small knot at the base of each end before weaving, just to be safe.
Give your finished bag a gentle hand wash in cool water and lay it flat to dry. This will even out your tension and give the cotton fibers a chance to bloom slightly, which makes the finished bag feel softer and more supple.
Tips for a Beautiful Finished Bag
Keep your tension consistent. Mesh patterns are very unforgiving of uneven tension because the gaps between stitches make any irregularities visible. If you find your tension varies, try holding your yarn more firmly around your fingers, or switching to a hook with an ergonomic grip that feels more natural in your hand.
Count your stitches regularly. At the end of each mesh round, count the number of double crochets to make sure you haven’t accidentally skipped or added any stitches. It’s much easier to fix a mistake in the round you just worked than to discover a problem five rounds later.
Block your finished bag. Wet blocking — soaking the bag in cool water, pressing out the excess water in a towel, and then stretching it gently to shape before laying it flat to dry — makes a huge difference to the finished appearance. The mesh opens up beautifully, and the whole bag looks more polished and even.
Experiment with yarn. The pattern above works for a wide range of yarn types. Try it in natural jute for a beachy, boho feel. Use a bright, variegated cotton for a cheerful market bag. Work it in undyed linen for something minimalist and elegant. Each yarn will produce a subtly different result, even with identical hook and stitch count.
Customization Ideas
One of the best things about this pattern is how easily it adapts to different styles and uses.
Mini gift bag: Work only 6 to 8 mesh rounds and use a finer yarn to create a small gift bag for wine bottles, candles, or homemade jars of jam. These make wonderful, sustainable gift wrap alternatives.
Beach bag: Scale up with a bulky cotton rope yarn and an 8mm hook for a large, sturdy beach bag that can hold towels, sunscreen, and a good book. Increase the number of base rounds and add more mesh rounds to get the size you want.
Produce bag: Use a very fine crochet thread and a 1.75mm hook to work the same mesh pattern in miniature, creating lightweight produce bags for fruits and vegetables. These are light enough to use for buying loose produce without adding any significant weight at the checkout scale.
Color blocking: Work the base and rim in one color and the mesh body in another for a graphic, modern look. Or change colors every few mesh rounds for a striped effect.
Frequently Asked Questions
What’s the best yarn for a crochet string bag?
Smooth cotton or cotton-blend yarn is the top choice for most crochet string bags. It’s strong, washable, and doesn’t stretch under weight the way acrylic does. 100% cotton in DK or worsted weight is ideal for a beginner’s first string bag.
How do I keep my string bag from getting too floppy?
Work at a slightly tighter tension than the pattern suggests, or go down one hook size. You can also crochet the base rounds tightly and loosen up slightly for the mesh body rounds.
Can I machine wash a crocheted string bag?
Most cotton string bags can survive a gentle machine wash cycle in a mesh laundry bag. However, hand washing in cool water is always the safest option for preserving the shape and texture of your work.
How much yarn do I need for a full-size string bag?
A standard market bag using worsted weight cotton typically uses between 150 and 250 yards of yarn. It’s always better to have a little extra than to run out halfway through the mesh body.
How long does it take to crochet a string bag?
Most experienced beginners can complete a string bag in a single afternoon or evening, perhaps three to five hours of relaxed crocheting. The mesh rounds work up quickly once you get into the rhythm.
Final Thoughts
A crocheted string bag is one of those projects that delivers a huge amount of satisfaction for a relatively small investment of time and materials. By the time you finish your first one, you’ll probably already be planning the next — in a different color, a different yarn, a different size. That’s the magic of crochet. Every project is a learning experience and a small creative act, and this one also happens to make your grocery run a little more beautiful.
We hope this tutorial has given you everything you need to get started. If you make one of these bags, we’d love to see it over at Crochet Kingdom — share your finished project and tag us so we can celebrate your work. Happy crocheting!
