New Pattern — Duffel Bag for Crochet Today!

There is something deeply satisfying about carrying a bag you made yourself. Every time you set it on the floor of a yoga studio, toss it into the back seat of your car, or haul it through an airport, you get to say — silently or out loud, depending on your personality — “I made this.” The duffel bag is one of those classic, utilitarian shapes that translates beautifully into crochet, and today I am so thrilled to share a brand-new pattern that is practical, stylish, and genuinely fun to make from start to finish.

Whether you are a seasoned crocheter looking for your next satisfying project or an adventurous intermediate maker ready to level up your skills, this duffel bag pattern is designed with you in mind. It works up quickly with a chunky cotton or cotton-blend yarn, it holds its shape beautifully, and the finished bag is sturdy enough to handle real life — gym clothes, weekend gear, a trip to the farmers market, or a carry-on for a short flight.

Let’s dive in.

Why a Crochet Duffel Bag?

Crochet bags have had a serious moment in the fashion world over the past few years, and that momentum is not slowing down. Handmade bags in particular carry a quality and intentionality that mass-produced accessories simply cannot replicate. But beyond aesthetics, there are genuinely practical reasons to crochet your own duffel.

First, you control the size. Store-bought duffel bags come in whatever dimensions the manufacturer decided on, and sometimes those dimensions are just slightly wrong for your life. Too narrow, too shallow, too big, not big enough. When you crochet your own, you scale the pattern up or down to suit exactly what you need.

Second, you control the material. The right yarn choice makes all the difference for a bag that will see real use. Cotton is washable, durable, and gets softer with every wash. A stiff jute gives a more structured look. A cotton-acrylic blend offers a little stretch and a slightly lighter weight. The pattern I am sharing today is written for a chunky cotton, but I will include notes throughout on how to adapt it for different yarn weights.

Third, and maybe most importantly — it is just genuinely enjoyable to make. This pattern uses straightforward stitches, clear construction logic, and a satisfying rhythm that makes it the perfect project for evenings on the couch, a long weekend at home, or a road trip (as the passenger, obviously).

About This Pattern

This duffel bag pattern is an original design created exclusively for Crochet Today! It features a classic cylindrical duffel shape with a flat base, sturdy side handles, a long shoulder strap, and a zipper closure at the top. The body of the bag uses a simple yet textured stitch pattern that adds visual interest without being complicated to execute.

The finished bag measures approximately 20 inches long and 10 inches in diameter, giving you a generous interior that fits a surprising amount of stuff. If you want a smaller gym bag, you can easily reduce the stitch count and row count by 20 percent and end up with something closer to 16 inches long and 8 inches in diameter.

Skill level: Intermediate

Finished dimensions: Approximately 20 inches long × 10 inches in diameter

Gauge: 10 sc × 12 rows = 4 inches in single crochet with suggested yarn and hook

Materials You Will Need

Getting the materials together before you start is one of those habits that makes the whole process smoother. Here is everything you need for this project.

Yarn: Approximately 600–700 yards of chunky weight (size 5) cotton or cotton-blend yarn. The sample shown was made in a warm oatmeal color, but this pattern looks stunning in deep terracotta, forest green, navy, or a classic off-white. Choose a tightly spun yarn rather than a loosely plied one — tight construction means better stitch definition and a more durable finished bag.

Hook: US size K (6.5 mm) crochet hook, or the size needed to match gauge

Notions:

• One 20-inch zipper in a coordinating or contrasting color
• Two D-rings, 1.5 inches wide
• Two swivel clips or lobster clasps, 1.5 inches wide
• Approximately 1 yard of cotton canvas or sturdy cotton webbing, 1.5 inches wide, for the handles and strap reinforcement
• Tapestry needle
• Scissors
• Stitch markers (locking style recommended)
• Optional: A piece of plastic canvas or a thin foam sheet cut to a 6.5-inch circle for the base insert

About the Hardware: The D-rings, swivel clips, and webbing make this bag functional and long-lasting. You can find these at any craft or fabric store, and often at hardware stores as well. If you prefer a handle-only bag without the shoulder strap, you can skip the swivel clips and just attach the handles directly to the body of the bag.

Stitch and Abbreviations Guide

This pattern uses US crochet terminology throughout.

ch — chain
sl st — slip stitch
sc — single crochet
hdc — half double crochet
dc — double crochet
MR — magic ring
blo — back loop only
flo — front loop only
st(s) — stitch(es)
sp — space
rep — repeat
pm — place marker
sm — slip marker

Textured Body Stitch (worked in rounds, multiple of 2 sts):
Round 1: Sc in blo of next st, sc in flo of next st, repeat from to around.
This alternating back-loop / front-loop single crochet creates a subtle ridged texture that adds structure and visual depth to the bag body.

Pattern Instructions

Part One: The Base

The base of this bag is a flat circle worked in continuous rounds of single crochet. Working into the back loop only from a certain point onward creates a clean edge where the sides rise up from the base, which is one of the small details that makes a finished bag look really polished.

Round 1: Using a magic ring, work 6 sc into the ring. Pull ring closed. (6 sts)

Round 2: 2 sc in each st around. (12 sts)

Round 3: Sc in next st, 2 sc in next st, rep around. (18 sts)

Round 4: Sc in next 2 sts, 2 sc in next st, rep around. (24 sts)

Round 5: Sc in next 3 sts, 2 sc in next st, rep around. (30 sts)

Round 6: Sc in next 4 sts, 2 sc in next st, rep around. (36 sts)

Round 7: Sc in next 5 sts, 2 sc in next st, rep around. (42 sts)

Round 8: Sc in next 6 sts, 2 sc in next st, rep around. (48 sts)

Round 9: Sc in next 7 sts, 2 sc in next st, rep around. (54 sts)

Round 10: Sc in next 8 sts, 2 sc in next st, rep around. (60 sts)

Round 11: Sc in next 9 sts, 2 sc in next st, rep around. (66 sts)

Round 12: Sc in next 10 sts, 2 sc in next st, rep around. (72 sts)

Round 13: Sc in next 11 sts, 2 sc in next st, rep around. (78 sts)

Round 14: Sc in next 12 sts, 2 sc in next st, rep around. (84 sts)

At the end of Round 14, you should have a flat circle approximately 6.5 inches in diameter. Place a stitch marker at the beginning of the next round.

Part Two: The Sides

Transition Round: Working in blo only, sc in each st around. (84 sts) This single round worked in back loops only creates the clean corner between the base and the sides.

Rounds 1–5: Sc in each st around, working through both loops. (84 sts)

Rounds 6 through end of body: Begin working the Textured Body Stitch as described in the stitch guide above: sc in blo of next st, sc in flo of next st, rep around.

Continue working the Textured Body Stitch in continuous rounds until the sides measure approximately 9.5 inches from the base transition round. For the finished bag’s 10-inch diameter, this gives you the proportions of a classic duffel shape.

Place a stitch marker at the beginning of the final round of the body to mark it for assembly.

Do not fasten off yet. Continue to the zipper opening preparation.

Part Three: The Zipper Opening

Before finishing the top edge, you will work a reinforcing round and then fasten off cleanly so the zipper can be sewn in by hand or machine.

Final Round: Sc in each st around, working through both loops. (84 sts)

Fasten off, leaving a tail of approximately 12 inches for weaving in.

At this stage, the main body tube is complete. Set it aside and work the second circular end.

Second End Circle: Repeat Parts One and Two (base and sides) for a second identical piece. This will become the other circular end of the duffel bag. The two circles will be joined to the body tube during assembly.

Note: Some duffel bag crochet patterns work the body as one long rectangle and seam it into a tube, then attach circular ends. This pattern instead works two cylindrical halves and joins them, which produces a more even, structured result with less seaming visible on the exterior.

Part Four: Handles and Strap Rings

The top handles are crocheted strips reinforced with cotton webbing on the inside. This construction gives them the stiffness and strength to hold weight without stretching out of shape over time.

For each handle (make 2):

Foundation: Ch 51.

Row 1: Sc in second ch from hook and in each ch across. (50 sts) Ch 1, turn.

Rows 2–6: Sc in each st across. (50 sts) Ch 1, turn.

At the end of Row 6, do not fasten off. Fold the strip in half lengthwise with wrong sides together. Working through both layers, sl st across to close the handle into a firm, double-thickness strip. Fasten off, leaving a long tail.

Cut two pieces of cotton webbing, each 8 inches long. Fold each piece in half and insert it into the handle strip before you sl st it closed. This adds interior structure.

For the D-ring tabs (make 4):

Foundation: Ch 11.

Row 1: Sc in second ch from hook and in each ch across. (10 sts) Ch 1, turn.

Rows 2–5: Sc in each st across. Ch 1, turn.

Fasten off, leaving a long tail. Fold each tab through a D-ring and use the tail to sew the tab closed. These tabs will be sewn onto the body of the bag where the handles attach.

For the shoulder strap:

The shoulder strap is worked as a long single crochet strip, approximately 48 inches long (adjustable to your preferred length).

Foundation: Ch 7.

Row 1: Sc in second ch from hook and in each ch across. (6 sts) Ch 1, turn.

Continue: Sc across in each row until strap measures 48 inches (or desired length).

Fasten off. Attach a swivel clip to each end by folding the strap end through the clip and sewing it securely with a tapestry needle and matching yarn. For added security, sew back and forth several times through both layers.

Part Five: Assembly

This is the part that brings everything together, and it is genuinely exciting to watch the bag take shape.

Step 1: Lay the body tube flat. Using stitch markers, mark four evenly spaced points around one open end of the tube. These marks indicate the top of the bag. Mark the midpoint of each long side — these are your handle placement points.

Step 2: With the tapestry needle and a long length of yarn, sew one circular end piece to each open end of the body tube, using a whipstitch or mattress stitch worked around the entire circumference. Take your time with this step. Even, consistent tension here is what gives the bag its clean, professional finished look. Work with the right sides facing outward so any seam is on the interior.

Step 3: Attach the D-ring tabs. Position one tab on each side of the bag at the handle placement points you marked — so two tabs on each side, spaced about 4 inches apart, forming the anchor points for each handle. Sew each tab securely to the bag body, stitching around all four edges of the tab base.

Step 4: Thread each handle through the two D-ring tabs on its side of the bag. The handle should pass through both D-rings and rest in a comfortable loop above the bag. Secure the handle ends to the tabs by stitching through the handle and tab together several times.

Step 5: Attach the two remaining D-ring tabs (for the shoulder strap) on the same sides of the bag, positioning them approximately 1 inch below the top edge, centered between the handle tabs. These are where the swivel clips of the shoulder strap will attach.

Step 6: Sew in the zipper along the top opening of the bag. This step is easier than it looks. Pin the zipper tape along the inside top edge of the bag, with the zipper pull on the exterior. Using a needle and strong thread in a matching color, sew the zipper tape to the crochet fabric using a whipstitch, working slowly and keeping your stitches small and even. If you have access to a sewing machine, a zipper foot attachment makes this step go even faster.

Finishing Touches

Weave in all remaining ends carefully. For the ends inside the bag body, weave in at least two directions and knot off securely — the interior of a bag experiences a lot of friction, so secure ends are important here.

If you chose to use a base insert (the plastic canvas or foam circle), slip it into the bag now and press it flat against the base. This insert is optional but highly recommended if you plan to use the bag for gym gear or travel, as it keeps the base from bowing inward under weight.

Block the bag lightly if desired. For cotton, a light steam or a damp pressing cloth works well. You do not need to soak and pin the bag like you might a garment — just a light steam to even out the stitch tension and help the bag hold its shape while it dries.

Yarn and Color Inspiration

One of the most fun parts of making this bag is choosing your color story. Here are a few combinations that look absolutely beautiful in this stitch pattern.

A warm camel or oatmeal yarn with tan webbing hardware gives a neutral, goes-with-everything look that suits any wardrobe. Navy or deep cobalt with gold-toned hardware has a nautical, vintage feel that is endlessly chic. A rich terracotta or burnt orange with natural cotton webbing feels earthy and modern at the same time. Soft sage green with cream hardware is fresh and understated in the best possible way. If you want to make a statement, try a variegated cotton yarn — the alternating back and front loop stitch pattern catches color changes beautifully and creates an almost woven appearance.

Tips for Success

Work your base circle tightly. A loose base will cause the bag to lose its shape over time. If you find your base is curling upward as you work, try going down half a hook size for the base section only.

Use locking stitch markers rather than open-ring markers for this project. With circular construction and multiple pieces, you will be moving markers frequently, and locking markers are much easier to manage.

Measure your gauge swatch seriously. Even a half-stitch difference in gauge will change your finished dimensions by an inch or more over the width of the bag.

Do not skip the webbing inside the handles. It is the detail that separates a bag that holds up from a bag that stretches into an unusable shape after a few uses.

If this is your first time sewing in a zipper,