Crochet Makeup Bag Pattern | Striped Cosmetic Pouch Step-by-Step Tutorial

If you’ve been looking for a fun, functional, and genuinely beautiful crochet project, a striped cosmetic pouch might be exactly what you need. This crochet makeup bag pattern is perfect for beginners who have mastered the basics and are ready to try something with a little more purpose, and it’s satisfying enough to keep experienced crocheters coming back to make gift after gift. The finished pouch is sturdy, washable, and fully lined with a zipper closure — meaning it actually holds your makeup without anything falling through the stitches or getting snagged.

In this step-by-step tutorial, you’ll learn how to crochet a striped cosmetic pouch from start to finish, including yarn and hook recommendations, stitch counts, color change techniques, and tips for sewing in the fabric lining and zipper. By the end, you’ll have a handmade makeup bag that looks polished enough to sell at a craft fair or gift to someone you love.

Why Crochet a Makeup Bag?

Before we get into the pattern, let’s talk about why a crochet cosmetic pouch is such a worthwhile project. Store-bought makeup bags are almost always made from synthetic materials — cheap nylon or polyester that doesn’t breathe and can harbor bacteria over time. A handmade crochet bag made from cotton yarn, on the other hand, is breathable, machine washable, and far more durable than you might expect.

There’s also the customization factor. You choose the colors, the stripe pattern, the size. Want a tiny pouch for just your lip products? Adjust the foundation chain. Need something large enough for a full makeup collection? Size it up. Once you understand the structure of this pattern, it becomes endlessly adaptable.

And of course, there’s the simple joy of making something practical with your own hands. This is the kind of project you can start and finish in a weekend, which makes it incredibly satisfying.

Materials You’ll Need

Getting your materials together before you sit down to crochet saves a lot of interruptions. Here’s everything you need for the standard-size pouch, which finishes at approximately 9 inches wide by 5 inches tall.

Yarn: 100% cotton yarn in two or three colors works best for this project. Cotton holds its shape well, is easy to clean, and creates a firm fabric that stands up on its own when stuffed with your products. You’ll need roughly 150 yards of your main color (MC) and about 75 yards each of one or two contrasting colors (CC1 and CC2). Worsted weight is ideal for this pattern.

Hook: A 5.0mm (H/8) crochet hook is recommended for worsted weight cotton. Cotton yarn tends to have less give than acrylic, so if your gauge is typically tight, you may want to go up half a size to a 5.5mm hook.

Lining fabric: About a quarter yard of quilting cotton or lightweight canvas. Choose something that complements your yarn colors.

Zipper: One 9-inch or 10-inch zipper in a coordinating color. Nylon coil zippers are the easiest to work with by hand.

Notions: Fabric scissors, sewing needle and thread (or a sewing machine), pins, a yarn needle for weaving in ends, and stitch markers.

Gauge

Before you begin, check your gauge. For this pattern, you’re aiming for 14 single crochet stitches and 16 rows to equal 4 inches using a 5.0mm hook and worsted weight cotton yarn.

Gauge matters more for functional items like bags than it does for something like a blanket, because the finished size affects whether your lining pieces will fit correctly. If you’re consistently off, adjust your hook size before starting.

Abbreviations Used in This Pattern

• ch — chain
• sc — single crochet
• sl st — slip stitch
• st(s) — stitch(es)
• MC — main color
• CC1 — contrasting color 1
• CC2 — contrasting color 2
• RS — right side
• WS — wrong side

Understanding the Stripe Pattern

This cosmetic pouch uses a simple horizontal stripe sequence that creates a bold, modern look. The stripes are worked in rows, and color changes happen at the beginning of a new row, which keeps the process clean and easy to manage.

The stripe sequence used in this pattern is:

4 rows MC, 2 rows CC1, 4 rows MC, 2 rows CC2, repeat.

You can absolutely change this up. Two-row stripes throughout give a classic equal-stripe look. Single-row stripes create a tighter, more intricate pattern. Feel free to play with it — the construction stays exactly the same regardless of how you arrange your colors.

Pattern Instructions

Part One: Crocheting the Main Body

The bag is worked in two flat rectangular panels that are then joined together. This method makes it easy to add the lining later, and it gives you a neater finished edge than working in the round.

Panel (make 2):

Using MC, chain 33. This gives you a foundation chain of 32 working stitches plus 1 turning chain.

Row 1 (WS): Sc in the second chain from the hook and in each chain across. (32 sc) Chain 1, turn.

Row 2 (RS): Sc in each stitch across. (32 sc) Chain 1, turn.

Rows 3–4: Sc in each stitch across. Chain 1, turn.

After Row 4, you’ve completed your first MC stripe section. Now it’s time to switch to CC1.

Color change technique: Work the last single crochet of your final MC row until you have two loops on the hook. Pull through with CC1 instead of MC to complete the stitch. Drop MC (don’t cut it — you’ll carry it up the side or pick it back up after the CC stripe). Chain 1 in CC1 and turn.

Rows 5–6: Using CC1, sc in each stitch across. Chain 1, turn.

After Row 6, switch back to MC using the same color change method.

Rows 7–10: Using MC, sc in each stitch across. Chain 1, turn.

After Row 10, switch to CC2.

Rows 11–12: Using CC2, sc in each stitch across. Chain 1, turn.

Switch back to MC.

Rows 13–16: Using MC, sc in each stitch across. Chain 1, turn.

Continue this stripe sequence (MC x4, CC1 x2, MC x4, CC2 x2) until your panel measures approximately 5 inches from the foundation chain, ending with a complete stripe section. For most people working at gauge, this will be around 20 rows total, though your row count may vary slightly depending on your tension.

Fasten off and weave in ends. Make a second identical panel.

Part Two: Joining the Panels

Place both panels with wrong sides facing together. The right sides of both panels should be facing outward. Using MC and your yarn needle threaded with a generous length of yarn, or using your hook with a slip stitch seam, join the panels along the bottom edge and both side edges, leaving the top edge open.

If you’re using a slip stitch seam: Insert your hook through the corresponding stitches of both panels simultaneously, draw up a loop, and slip stitch through. This creates a visible seam on the outside, which you can use as a design detail by working it in a contrasting color, or keep it in MC to blend in.

If you prefer an invisible seam, use a whip stitch with your yarn needle, taking care to match stitch for stitch along each edge.

Once all three sides are joined, your pouch body is complete. It should look like a simple rectangular envelope open at the top. Set it aside while you prepare the lining.

Part Three: Making the Fabric Lining

The lining is what transforms this from a decorative item into a truly functional makeup bag. It prevents small items from poking through the stitches, protects the inside from makeup spills, and gives the bag a clean, professional finish.

Cutting your lining pieces:

Lay your crocheted panel flat and measure it. Cut two pieces of lining fabric that are the same width as your panel plus half an inch on each side for seam allowance, and the same height plus half an inch at the top and bottom.

So if your finished panel measures 9 inches wide by 5 inches tall, cut your lining pieces to 10 inches wide by 6 inches tall.

Sewing the lining:

Place your two lining pieces right sides together. Pin along the bottom and both side edges. Using a sewing machine or hand needle and thread, stitch a half-inch seam along the bottom and both sides, leaving the top open. Press the seams open with an iron.

Fold the top raw edge down half an inch toward the wrong side of the fabric and press. This creates a clean finished edge that you’ll use when attaching the lining to the crochet body.

Part Four: Attaching the Zipper

The zipper goes in before the lining is inserted, which makes the whole process much cleaner and easier to manage.

Preparing the zipper opening:

The top edge of your crocheted bag is open. Work a single row of single crochet around the top opening in MC to stabilize it and give yourself a neat edge to sew against. This row also makes it easier to space your stitches evenly when attaching the zipper by hand.

Pinning the zipper:

Open your zipper halfway. Place it face down on the right side of the top edge of the bag, with the zipper tape aligned with the top edge of the crochet. The zipper pull should be on the inside as you pin. Center the zipper so there’s equal overhang on each end if any overhang exists.

Pin the zipper in place along both sides of the top opening (one zipper tape on the front panel, one on the back panel).

Sewing the zipper:

Using a needle and strong thread (upholstery thread or doubled regular thread works well), sew the zipper tape to the crochet using a whip stitch or a running stitch, catching the edge stitches of the crochet to secure the tape. Work slowly and keep your stitches even. The zipper should lie flat and open and close smoothly when you’re done.

If the ends of the zipper extend past the sides of the bag, fold them inward and tack them down before you sew the final seam.

Part Five: Inserting the Lining

With your zipper now attached, it’s time to insert the fabric lining.

Slip the lining inside the bag with the wrong side of the lining facing the wrong side of the crochet (so all the rough sides are hidden in the middle). The folded, pressed top edge of the lining should sit just below the zipper tape on both the front and back.

Pin the lining in place, taking care to keep it smooth and wrinkle-free inside the bag.

Using a needle and thread, hand stitch the lining to the zipper tape using small, neat stitches. You want the lining to cover the raw edge of the zipper tape, giving the interior a clean look. Work your way around the entire top opening, front and back.

Once the lining is stitched in, test the zipper again. It should glide smoothly, and the lining should stay neatly in place.

Finishing Touches

Take a moment to weave in any remaining yarn ends that might be peeking out from your color changes along the side edges. Thread your yarn needle and work each tail through the back side of several stitches in different directions to secure them firmly.

Give the bag a gentle hand wash in cool water with a small amount of mild detergent to freshen it up and relax the stitches, then reshape it and lay it flat to dry. Cotton tends to relax and even out beautifully after its first wash.

If you want to add a small pom pom or tassel to the zipper pull, now is a great time to do that. A little tassel in one of your contrasting colors makes the bag feel more finished and adds a charming handmade touch.

Tips for Success

Cotton yarn can be a little stiff and unforgiving compared to acrylic, especially if you’re newer to working with it. Keep your tension consistent but not overly tight — you want the fabric to be firm without being rigid. If your hands get tired, take a break. Cramping while working with cotton is common, and pushing through usually results in uneven tension.

Carrying your yarn up the side edges rather than cutting and re-joining at every color change saves time and reduces the number of ends to weave in. To carry, simply bring the unused color up along the side as you work, trapping it occasionally under a stitch to keep it tidy. The lining will cover any visible carrying on the inside of the bag.

If you’re making this as a gift and want to add a personal touch, consider embroidering the recipient’s initial on one of the wide MC stripe sections using a contrasting color of embroidery floss. It’s a small addition that makes the gift feel truly special.

Variations to Try

Once you’ve made the standard version of this pattern, there are so many fun directions you can take it.

A taller bag with a gusset at the bottom can stand upright on a bathroom counter, making it perfect for brushes and tools with longer handles. To add a gusset, simply increase the length of your foundation chain by 4 to 6 stitches for the extra width, and join the bottom of the two panels with a narrow rectangular third panel rather than directly to each other.

A mini version of this pouch using fingering weight cotton and a 3.5mm hook makes a perfect lip balm and cards holder — small enough to tuck inside a larger purse. Use the same construction method and just scale down the dimensions.

If you want to skip the lining for a simpler project, use a tighter stitch pattern. Half double crochet worked in the back loop only creates a denser, thicker fabric that’s less prone to small items slipping through. It also gives the bag a wonderful ribbed texture that looks great in bold stripes.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I use acrylic yarn instead of cotton? You can, and the bag will still look beautiful. Acrylic gives a slightly softer, more drapey result and is often easier to work with for beginners. The main tradeoff is that acrylic doesn’t clean as thoroughly as cotton and may not hold its shape quite as crisply over time.

What if I can’t find a 9-inch zipper? A 10-inch zipper works equally well and can simply be trimmed down if needed. To trim a nylon zipper: sew a few tight bar stitches across the coil at the length you need to create a new stop, then cut off the excess about a quarter inch beyond your new stop.

Do I have to use a fabric lining? Technically, no. But it’s strongly recommended. Without a lining, small items like lip liner caps and eyeshadow brushes tend to poke through single crochet fabric, and liquids can seep through in a way that a fabric lining would prevent. If you’re looking for a no-sew shortcut, a fabric glue like Aleene’s can be used instead of hand stitching the lining in place.

How do I wash the finished bag? Turn it inside out and machine wash on a gentle cold cycle, or hand wash in cool water. Lay flat to dry rather than putting it in a dryer, which can cause the cotton to shrink slightly and warp the shape.

Final Thoughts

This crochet makeup bag pattern is one of those projects that balances creative satisfaction with genuine usefulness perfectly. It’s the kind of thing you’ll want to make in every color combination — one for your bathroom, one as a birthday gift, one for your gym bag. The striped cosmetic pouch design is classic enough to never go out of style, but flexible enough to feel personal every time you make it.

If you’re sharing your finished pouch online, use the hashtag so others in the crochet community can see your version. Every maker’s interpretation of a stripe sequence is a little different, and seeing the variety of colors and combinations people come up with is one of the most delightful parts of sharing patterns.

Happy crocheting — and enjoy your beautiful new handmade cosmetic pouch.