Hemlock Ring Blanket Free Knitting Pattern
There is something quietly magical about a lace knitting project that begins as a tiny circle at the center and gradually unfolds into a stunning blanket or table topper. The Hemlock Ring Blanket is exactly that kind of project — one of those rare patterns that manages to be both deeply satisfying to knit and breathtaking to behold once finished. If you have been searching for a free knitting pattern that will challenge your skills just enough to keep things interesting without overwhelming you, you have found it. This guide will walk you through everything you need to know to cast on your first Hemlock Ring Blanket, from materials and gauge to stitch-by-stitch explanations and finishing tips.
Whether you are a seasoned knitter looking for your next heirloom piece or an adventurous intermediate knitter ready to try lace for the first time, this pattern is a wonderful choice. Originally published by Jared Flood, the Hemlock Ring Blanket has become a beloved classic in the knitting community, and for good reason. Its combination of simple lace repeats, circular construction, and elegant finished look makes it one of the most rewarding blankets you can put on your needles.
What Is the Hemlock Ring Blanket?
The Hemlock Ring Blanket takes its name and its visual inspiration from the graceful ring patterns found in the cross-section of a hemlock tree. The concentric circles and radiating lines of the tree’s growth rings translate beautifully into knitted lace, creating a blanket that looks intricate from a distance but is built from surprisingly manageable stitch patterns.
The blanket is worked entirely in the round, starting with a small number of stitches cast on at the center and increasing outward through a series of lace sections. The construction method means there are no seams to sew and no wrong-side rows to navigate — just round after round of satisfying progress. When you reach the final border, the piece is finished with a traditional old-shale or feather-and-fan edging that frames the whole design in a wave of soft, undulating texture.
This is a pattern that photographs beautifully, ages gracefully, and works up in a range of sizes depending on how many lace repeats you add. Many knitters use it as a lap blanket, a table topper, a decorative throw, or even a shawl. The versatility alone makes it worth learning.
Materials You Will Need
Before you cast on, gathering the right materials will set you up for success. Here is what you need to get started.
Yarn: The original pattern calls for a worsted weight yarn, and this is a great choice for a blanket that will see regular use. Look for something with good stitch definition so the lace pattern reads clearly. Natural fibers like wool, cotton, and linen all work beautifully. A wool-cotton blend gives you the best of both worlds — the elasticity of wool makes the lace stretchy and easy to block, while cotton adds drape and a lovely matte finish. For a full-size blanket, plan on approximately 900 to 1,200 yards of worsted weight yarn. Lighter fingering or DK weight yarns will produce a more delicate, drapey fabric and will require more yardage.
Needles: You will need a set of circular needles in a size appropriate for your chosen yarn. For worsted weight, a US size 7 or 8 (4.5mm or 5.0mm) needle works well. Because the blanket starts with just a handful of stitches, you may also want a set of double-pointed needles or a very short circular needle (16 inches or less) for the first few rounds before your stitch count grows large enough to use a longer cable. Many knitters use the magic loop method on a single long circular needle to avoid switching between needle types.
Notions: A removable stitch marker or locking marker for the beginning of round is essential. You will also want a tapestry needle for weaving in your ends when finished, and blocking wires and T-pins for the finishing process. A row counter is helpful for keeping track of where you are in the lace pattern, especially when you are new to the stitch sequence.
Gauge
Gauge is somewhat flexible for a blanket like this because the finished dimensions are not critical in the way they would be for a garment. That said, working to a consistent gauge will give you a more even fabric and a better sense of how large your finished blanket will be.
A rough gauge of 18 stitches and 24 rows over 4 inches in stockinette stitch with worsted weight yarn is a reasonable target. Because lace is almost always blocked after knitting, your finished gauge will open up significantly once the piece is wet and stretched out. Do not skip blocking — it is the step that transforms a puckered, scrunched-looking piece of circular knitting into a flat, beautiful blanket.
Abbreviations and Stitch Guide
Before diving into the pattern instructions, it helps to familiarize yourself with the abbreviations used throughout. Here is a quick reference.
k — knit
p — purl
yo — yarn over
k2tog — knit two stitches together (a right-leaning decrease)
ssk — slip, slip, knit (a left-leaning decrease)
sl1 — slip one stitch purlwise
pm — place marker
sm — slip marker
rep — repeat
RS — right side
WS — wrong side
CO — cast on
BO — bind off
The main stitch patterns used in the Hemlock Ring Blanket are yarn-over increases paired with decreases to create the lace effect. Every yarn over adds a stitch, and every decrease removes one, keeping the stitch count even within each lace section. The balance of increases and decreases is what creates those beautiful open holes and diagonal lines that define the hemlock ring motif.
Cast On and Center Setup
The blanket begins with a simple circular cast on at the center. One of the most popular methods for this kind of project is the Emily Ocker circular cast on, which creates a tight, nearly invisible center with no hole. If you are not familiar with this cast on, it is well worth the few minutes it takes to learn — it creates a far more polished center than a traditional long-tail or loop cast on.
To work the Emily Ocker circular cast on, make a loop with your yarn, draw loops through the center of that loop using a crochet hook, and slip them onto your needle. Cast on 8 stitches using this method, divide them over your needles, join to work in the round, and place a marker at the beginning of round. Pull the tail tight once you have worked the first round to close the center hole completely.
If you prefer a more familiar start, you can alternatively cast on 8 stitches onto a double-pointed needle, knit a short i-cord for 2 to 3 rows, and then arrange the stitches to begin working in the round. Either approach works — what matters is that you start with a tidy, manageable center from which you will increase outward.
Pattern Instructions
Setup Round: Knit all stitches.
Round 1 (Increase Round): Yo, k1 — repeat to end of round. You now have 16 stitches.
Round 2: Knit all stitches.
Round 3: Yo, k1 — repeat to end of round. You now have 32 stitches.
Round 4: Knit all stitches.
Round 5: Yo, k1 — repeat to end of round. You now have 64 stitches.
At this point you have completed the center section and are ready to begin the first lace section. The lace is worked in 8-stitch repeats, so your stitch count should always be a multiple of 8 as you add new sections.
Lace Section 1 — Round 1: K2tog, yo, k1, yo, ssk, k3 — repeat to end of round.
Lace Section 1 — Round 2 and all even rounds: Knit all stitches.
Lace Section 1 — Round 3: K2tog, yo, k1, yo, ssk, k3 — repeat to end of round.
Lace Section 1 — Round 5: K1, yo, sl1, k2tog, psso, yo, k4 — repeat to end of round.
Lace Section 1 — Round 7: K1, yo, sl1, k2tog, psso, yo, k4 — repeat to end of round.
Work the plain increase round once more to double your stitch count before beginning the next section. Continue this pattern of working lace sections separated by increase rounds, adding more repeats of the lace pattern as your stitch count grows.
The full pattern by Jared Flood includes several distinct lace sections that progress from the center outward, each one slightly larger and more visually complex than the last. The outermost section features the iconic old-shale border, which is one of the oldest lace patterns in the traditional knitting repertoire.
Old Shale Border — one complete repeat:
Round 1: Knit all stitches.
Round 2: Purl all stitches.
Round 3: K2tog 3 times, (yo, k1) 6 times, k2tog 3 times — repeat to end.
Round 4: Knit all stitches.
Work the old shale repeat 3 to 5 times depending on how deep you want the border to be. More repeats create a deeper wave and a more substantial edge.
Bind Off
The bind off for a lace blanket deserves almost as much attention as the rest of the knitting. A standard bind off is often too tight and will prevent the blanket from lying flat after blocking. Instead, use a stretchy bind off method.
One excellent option is the yarn-over bind off: knit one stitch, yarn over, knit one, pass the yarn over and the stitch over the last stitch worked. This creates a very stretchy, open edge that will allow the old-shale border to wave and scallop beautifully once blocked.
Another popular choice is the Russian bind off, where you knit two stitches together through the back loop, slip the resulting stitch back to the left needle, and repeat. Both methods produce a much more elastic edge than a traditional bind off and are worth trying before you commit to finishing your blanket.
Blocking Your Hemlock Ring Blanket
Blocking is the single most transformative step in finishing any lace project. Before blocking, a knitted lace piece can look almost unrecognizable — small, puckered, and difficult to read. After blocking, the stitches open up, the lace motifs become clear and crisp, and the blanket takes on its full, beautiful dimensions.
To block your Hemlock Ring Blanket, soak it in cool water with a small amount of wool wash or gentle dish soap for about 20 minutes. Gently squeeze out the water without wringing or twisting the fabric, then roll it in a clean towel to absorb the excess moisture. It should be damp but not dripping when you lay it out.
Place the blanket on a blocking mat or a clean carpeted surface. If you have blocking wires, thread them through the outer edge of the old-shale border to help create a smooth, even circle. Use T-pins to pin the scallops of the border at even intervals, stretching the lace gently outward as you go. Work your way around the entire circumference, checking that the blanket is roughly circular and that the center lies flat.
Allow the blanket to dry completely before removing the pins — this can take anywhere from several hours to a full day depending on the fiber content and the humidity in your space. Once dry and unpinned, the blanket should hold its shape beautifully.
Tips for Success
A few things will make your experience with this pattern smoother and more enjoyable.
Read the pattern through completely before casting on. Understanding the overall structure — center, lace sections, old-shale border — will help you follow along without confusion as you move from one section to the next.
Use stitch markers generously. Even if the pattern only calls for one beginning-of-round marker, adding markers every 8 or 16 stitches to separate your lace repeats will make it much easier to catch mistakes and stay on track.
Knit a small swatch of the lace pattern before starting the blanket. Even though gauge is flexible here, working through the lace stitch sequence a few times on scrap yarn will help your hands understand the rhythm of the pattern before you are working on the actual project.
If you make a mistake, do not panic. Lace errors are often fixable without ripping back entire rounds. Learn to read your knitting — understanding what a yarn over looks like, what a decrease looks like — and you will be able to find and fix small errors in place.
Consider your yarn weight and the intended use of your blanket before casting on. A fingering weight blanket will be more delicate and take longer to knit but will produce a lighter, more elegant fabric suitable for displaying or gifting. A worsted weight blanket will knit up faster, feel more substantial, and hold up better to daily use as a couch throw or lap blanket.
Why Knitters Love This Pattern
The Hemlock Ring Blanket has remained a community favorite for well over a decade, and the reasons are easy to understand once you have worked a few rounds. The circular construction is deeply satisfying — there is something meditative about watching a small center grow outward into a large, round piece without any seaming or shaping to worry about. The lace pattern is repetitive enough to become almost automatic once you have worked a few rounds, but varied enough across the different sections to stay interesting.
The finished object is also genuinely beautiful in a way that makes it a wonderful gift or a treasured heirloom. It photographs exceptionally well, which has helped it become one of those patterns that appears again and again in knitting communities and social media feeds, inspiring new generations of knitters to cast on.
There is also the very real pleasure of working on something that connects you to a long tradition of circular lace knitting. Patterns like old shale have been knitted in coastal Scotland and elsewhere for centuries. When you work these stitches, you are participating in a living tradition that extends back far beyond our current moment, passed down through hands and memory and shared community.
Final Thoughts
The Hemlock Ring Blanket is everything a great knitting pattern should be: free to access, well-designed, forgiving enough for intermediate knitters, and rewarding enough for experienced ones. The finished piece is a genuine showstopper that looks far more complicated than it is to make, and the process of knitting it — round by round, section by section — is pleasurable from start to finish.
If you have been hesitant to try lace knitting, this is the pattern to change your mind. The combination of simple repeating stitches, circular construction, and a dramatic blocking transformation makes it one of the most satisfying projects you can undertake. Cast on, take your time with the center, let yourself settle into the rhythm of the lace, and trust the blocking. The result will be something you will be proud to use and proud to give.
Grab your yarn, find your needles, and let the rings begin to grow.
