Easy Pink Pig Amigurumi Pattern 🐷 Beginner Crochet Plush Tutorial

If you’ve been scrolling through crochet boards and falling in love with those adorable little stuffed animals made from yarn, you’ve landed in exactly the right place. This easy pink pig amigurumi pattern is perfect for beginners who want to dive into the world of amigurumi crochet without feeling overwhelmed. With just a few basic stitches, some pink yarn, and a little patience, you’ll have a plump, squishy piggy sitting on your shelf — or in the arms of someone you love — by the end of this tutorial.

Whether you’re making this as a gift for a baby shower, a child’s birthday, or simply because pigs are undeniably one of the cutest things on the planet, this pattern walks you through every step in plain, simple language. No complicated stitch counts. No confusing charts. Just a relaxing, satisfying crochet project that builds your skills while delivering major cuteness.

Let’s get into it.

What Is Amigurumi?

Amigurumi is the Japanese art of crocheting or knitting small stuffed animals and characters. The word itself comes from the Japanese words “ami” (meaning knitted or crocheted) and “nuigurumi” (meaning stuffed doll). These little plushies have taken the crafting world by storm because they’re small, portable, quick to make, and absolutely adorable.

Most amigurumi is worked in continuous rounds rather than flat rows, which gives the finished piece that smooth, seamless look. If you’ve crocheted before but never tried working in the round, this pig tutorial is a fantastic introduction. The pig shape is forgiving and simple — mostly spheres and ovals — so it’s a great confidence-builder.

Materials You’ll Need

Before you pick up your hook, gather everything on this list so you’re not pausing mid-project to search for supplies.

Yarn: You’ll need a light worsted weight or DK weight yarn in pink. A single 100g skein is more than enough for one pig. You’ll also want a small amount of dark brown or black yarn for the eyes and nostrils, and a tiny bit of white yarn if you want to add eye highlights.

Hook: A 3.5mm or 4.0mm crochet hook works well with worsted yarn for amigurumi. You want to crochet tighter than usual so the stuffing doesn’t show through the gaps. If your tension is naturally loose, drop down to a 3.0mm hook.

Stuffing: Polyfill stuffing (polyester fiberfill) is the go-to for amigurumi. You’ll need a moderate amount — roughly a small handful for the body, a little less for the head, and tiny pinches for the ears.

Safety eyes: 9mm or 12mm black safety eyes look great on a pig this size. These are the plastic eyes with a washer that locks them in place from the inside. If you’re making this pig for a child under three years old, skip the safety eyes and embroider the eyes instead for safety.

Tapestry needle: For weaving in yarn ends and sewing pieces together.

Stitch markers: Optional, but highly recommended for keeping track of the beginning of each round. A simple piece of contrasting yarn works just as well.

Scissors.

Abbreviations Used in This Pattern

This pattern uses US crochet terms.

MR = Magic ring (also called magic circle)
ch = chain
sl st = slip stitch
sc = single crochet
inc = increase (2 single crochets in the same stitch)
dec = invisible decrease (insert hook into the front loop of the next two stitches and single crochet them together)
st = stitch
rnd = round
BLO = back loop only
FLO = front loop only

A Note on Gauge and Tension

Amigurumi doesn’t require a specific gauge the way a wearable garment does, but your tension does matter. You want your stitches close enough together that the stuffing won’t peek through. Do a quick test swatch by working a few rounds in a circle and holding it up to the light. If you can see daylight through the gaps, tighten your tension or switch to a smaller hook.

Pink Pig Amigurumi Pattern

Part One: The Body

The body is a classic amigurumi sphere shape — you increase for the first half and decrease for the second half to create a round, plump belly.

Round 1: Start with a magic ring. Work 6 sc into the magic ring. Pull the ring closed. (6 stitches)

Round 2: Inc in each st around. (12 stitches)

Round 3: Sc 1, inc repeat around. (18 stitches)

Round 4: Sc 2, inc repeat around. (24 stitches)

Round 5: Sc 3, inc repeat around. (30 stitches)

Round 6: Sc 4, inc repeat around. (36 stitches)

Round 7: Sc 5, inc repeat around. (42 stitches)

Rounds 8–14: Sc in each st around. (42 stitches — 7 rounds even)

Round 15: Sc 5, dec repeat around. (36 stitches)

Round 16: Sc 4, dec repeat around. (30 stitches)

Round 17: Sc 3, dec repeat around. (24 stitches)

At this point, stuff the body firmly with polyfill. Add stuffing as you go for the remaining rounds so you can keep filling it up right to the end.

Round 18: Sc 2, dec repeat around. (18 stitches)

Round 19: Sc 1, dec repeat around. (12 stitches)

Round 20: Dec around. (6 stitches)

Cut yarn, leaving a long tail. Use your tapestry needle to weave through the remaining 6 front loops, pull tight to close the hole, and weave in the end. Set the body aside.

Part Two: The Head

The head is made the same way as the body but grows slightly larger before decreasing, giving your pig a rounder, chunkier face.

Round 1: Start with a magic ring. Work 6 sc into the magic ring. (6 stitches)

Round 2: Inc in each st around. (12 stitches)

Round 3: Sc 1, inc repeat around. (18 stitches)

Round 4: Sc 2, inc repeat around. (24 stitches)

Round 5: Sc 3, inc repeat around. (30 stitches)

Round 6: Sc 4, inc repeat around. (36 stitches)

Round 7: Sc 5, inc repeat around. (42 stitches)

Round 8: Sc 6, inc repeat around. (48 stitches)

Rounds 9–16: Sc in each st around. (48 stitches — 8 rounds even)

Round 17: Sc 6, dec repeat around. (42 stitches)

Round 18: Sc 5, dec repeat around. (36 stitches)

Round 19: Sc 4, dec repeat around. (30 stitches)

Now is the time to attach your safety eyes. Position them between rounds 13 and 14, with about 8 to 10 stitches between them. Insert the posts through the fabric, place the washers on the inside, and press firmly until they click into place. Once the washers are on, the eyes cannot be safely removed, so double-check the placement before locking them in.

Stuff the head firmly.

Round 20: Sc 3, dec repeat around. (24 stitches)

Round 21: Sc 2, dec repeat around. (18 stitches)

Round 22: Sc 1, dec repeat around. (12 stitches)

Round 23: Dec around. (6 stitches)

Close and weave in the end the same way as the body.

Part Three: The Snout

The snout is a flat oval shape and is one of the most charming parts of any pig amigurumi. It gives your pig that classic piggy nose look.

Round 1: Magic ring with 6 sc. (6 stitches)

Round 2: Inc in each st around. (12 stitches)

Round 3: Sc 1, inc repeat around. (18 stitches)

Rounds 4–5: Sc in each st around. (18 stitches)

Sl st to finish, leaving a long tail for sewing. Do not stuff the snout — it should remain flat. Using your black yarn and a tapestry needle, embroider two small oval nostrils on the front of the snout before sewing it onto the head. Place the nostrils in the center of the snout, about 4 stitches apart.

Sew the snout onto the face, centered below the eyes, and just slightly toward the bottom of the head. Use your tapestry needle and the long yarn tail to stitch the snout down all the way around its edge so it lies flat and secure.

Part Four: The Ears

Make two ears.

Round 1: Magic ring with 6 sc. (6 stitches)

Round 2: Inc in each st around. (12 stitches)

Round 3: Sc 1, inc repeat around. (18 stitches)

Round 4: Sc in each st around. (18 stitches)

Fold the ear in half and sl st across the opening to close it flat. Leave a long tail. Do not stuff. Repeat for the second ear.

Pin the ears to the top of the head with a slight fold inward — this gives them that floppy, realistic pig ear look. Position them roughly in line with the eyes, on either side of the head. Once you’re happy with their placement, sew them on securely.

Part Five: The Legs (Make Four)

Round 1: Magic ring with 6 sc. (6 stitches)

Round 2: Inc in each st around. (12 stitches)

Rounds 3–7: Sc in each st around. (12 stitches — 5 rounds even)

Stuff lightly. Flatten the opening and sc across to close (this gives each leg a flat base). Leave a long tail. Make all four legs before sewing them on.

Attach the two front legs toward the top sides of the body, and the two back legs toward the bottom sides. The legs should face slightly forward and outward, so your pig looks like it’s standing sturdily.

Part Six: The Tail

Cut about a 30cm length of pink yarn. Fold it in half and attach it to the back of the body using a slip knot through one of the stitches. Twist the yarn together tightly, then let it curl back on itself to form a corkscrew tail. Secure the end with a small knot and trim any excess. This is honestly one of the most satisfying steps of the whole project.

Assembly

Now for the fun part — putting your pig together and watching it come to life.

Start by sewing the head onto the body. Use your tapestry needle and pink yarn to stitch through both pieces firmly, going around the entire base of the head. Make sure the snout is facing forward and the face looks centered before you pull the stitches tight. A well-attached head makes for a much sturdier finished toy.

Once the head is on, attach the legs. As noted above, place the front legs on either side of the body in the upper third, and the back legs in the lower third. Adjust positioning by pinning with stitch markers or straight pins first so you can step back and look at the overall silhouette before committing.

Finally, attach the tail at the back center of the body, just above the midpoint.

Weave in all remaining ends with your tapestry needle, trimming close but not too close — leave just a little tail so nothing unravels.

Finishing Touches and Customization Ideas

Once your pig is assembled, you can add a few extra details to personalize it.

If you want rosy cheeks, use a pink blush makeup brush or a small amount of chalk pastel (pink or salmon colored) and lightly dust the cheeks on either side of the snout. This gives your pig a blushing, storybook quality that is almost impossibly cute.

You can also use white yarn to add tiny stitch highlights to the eyes — just a single stitch in the upper corner of each eye gives the impression of light catching the eye, making the pig look more expressive and alive.

For a farmyard scene, consider making your pig in different sizes. Use a thicker yarn with a bigger hook for a mama pig, and a thinner yarn with a smaller hook for piglets. The pattern scales beautifully.

Want a holiday version? Try making your pig in white yarn with a red scarf (a short crocheted rectangle attached around the neck), or in pastel colors for Easter. You could even add tiny crocheted wings with white yarn for a “when pigs fly” joke gift.

Beginner Tips for Amigurumi Success

If this is your first amigurumi project, here are a few things that will make the experience much smoother.

Use stitch markers religiously. It’s very easy to lose track of where your round begins, and once you’re a few stitches off, the math cascades into a mess. Mark the first stitch of every round and move the marker as you go.

The magic ring (also called the magic circle) is the foundation of most amigurumi. If it feels tricky at first, watch a short video tutorial — seeing the hand movements in real time makes it click much faster than reading about it. Once you have it, you’ll use it forever.

Don’t rush the decreases. The invisible decrease (working into the front loops only of two consecutive stitches) creates a much cleaner finish than a standard decrease, which leaves a small visible hole. It takes slightly more focus but makes a big difference in the final look of your amigurumi.

Stuff as you go rather than trying to cram stuffing in at the end. For pieces like the body and head, add stuffing every few decrease rounds so you can fill the piece evenly without distorting the shape.

If your yarn has a lot of stretch, consider using a slightly smaller hook. Stretchy yarn tends to let the white stuffing peek through the stitches, which interrupts the look of the finished piece.

Caring for Your Pig Amigurumi

If you’re giving this pig as a gift or making it for a child, it’s worth knowing how to clean it. Hand washing in cool water with a gentle soap is the safest option for most acrylic and cotton yarns. Gently press out the excess water (don’t wring) and lay flat to dry. For acrylic yarn, you can often machine wash on a gentle cycle in a mesh laundry bag, but check your yarn label first.

If the pig loses its shape after washing, you can restuff it once dry by making a small opening at a seam, adding more polyfill, and stitching it closed again with a tapestry needle.

Why You’ll Love Making This Pattern

Amigurumi pigs are one of those projects that feel completely achievable from the very first round. There’s no complicated shaping, no tricky stitch patterns, and no stressful seaming. Every piece is made using the same basic technique — increasing to build up, working even to stabilize, and decreasing to close — and once you understand the logic, you can apply it to almost any amigurumi shape you want to try next.

Beyond the technique, there’s something genuinely joyful about ending a crochet session holding a tiny pig that you made from scratch. It’s a tangible, loveable thing that took a handful of materials and a few hours of your time. That’s a pretty wonderful feeling.

Whether you finish this pig in one long afternoon or spread it across a few evenings, you’ll be rewarded with a plush that looks far more impressive than the effort it took. That’s the magic of amigurumi — and once you start, you won’t be able to stop at just one.

Happy crocheting! 🐷