Easy Crochet Lazy Pig Amigurumi Pattern: Cute Step-by-Step Tutorial
If you have ever scrolled through social media and felt your heart melt at a chubby little crocheted pig lounging with its stubby legs in the air, you are not alone. Amigurumi pigs have been a fan favorite in the crochet community for years, and it is easy to see why. They are round, squishy, impossibly cute, and — when you find the right pattern — surprisingly simple to make. This tutorial is designed for crafters who want a satisfying project that comes together quickly without sacrificing any of that irresistible charm.
Whether you are a beginner who has only just learned to single crochet or an experienced maker looking for a relaxing weekend project, this lazy pig amigurumi pattern is exactly what you need. We are going to walk through every single step together, from gathering your materials to sewing on that perfect little curly tail. By the end, you will have an adorably slouchy pig that looks like it just finished a big meal and has absolutely no plans for the rest of the afternoon.
Let us get started.
What Is Amigurumi?
Before we dive into the pattern itself, a quick note for anyone who is new to the world of amigurumi. The word comes from Japan and refers to the art of crocheting or knitting small stuffed animals and creatures. Traditional amigurumi are worked in the round using continuous spiral rounds rather than joined rounds, which gives them that seamless, smooth look. They are typically stuffed with polyester fiberfill and finished with safety eyes, embroidered details, and sewn-on accessories.
Amigurumi are one of the most beginner-friendly types of crochet projects because the individual pieces are small, there is very little shaping involved beyond simple increases and decreases, and you do not need to worry about gauge in the way you would for a garment. If your tension is a little loose or a little tight, your pig might just come out slightly bigger or smaller than expected — and honestly, that is perfectly fine.
Materials You Will Need
To make this lazy pig amigurumi, gather the following supplies before you begin. Having everything ready before you start will make the process much smoother.
Yarn: You will need a light pink (or your favorite pig color) worsted weight yarn as your main color, and a small amount of a slightly darker pink for the inner ears and snout. Some crafters love using a dusty rose or even a peachy coral, and all of those work beautifully. The total amount of yarn is modest — you likely will not use more than 100 grams of your main color.
Hook: A 3.5mm crochet hook is ideal for worsted weight yarn when making amigurumi, as the slightly smaller hook size creates a tighter fabric that keeps the stuffing inside from showing through. If you find your tension is naturally very tight, you may want to go up to a 4mm hook.
Stuffing: Polyester fiberfill is the standard choice. Have a good handful ready — you want your pig to be firm and hold its shape without being so tightly stuffed that the seams pucker.
Safety eyes: Two 12mm black safety eyes work well for this size. If you are making this pig as a gift for a young child, embroider the eyes in black yarn instead, as safety eyes can be a choking hazard for little ones.
Stitch marker: Just one is enough. You will use it to mark the beginning of each round as you work in a continuous spiral.
Yarn needle: A blunt tapestry needle for sewing pieces together and weaving in ends.
Scissors: Nothing fancy required.
Optional: A small piece of wire bent into a tight spiral for the tail, or you can make a crocheted curl as described in the pattern.
Abbreviations and Stitches Used
This pattern uses standard US crochet terminology.
MR — Magic ring (also called magic loop)
ch — Chain
sl st — Slip stitch
sc — Single crochet
inc — Increase (two single crochets worked into the same stitch)
dec — Invisible decrease (insert hook through the front loops of the next two stitches and single crochet them together)
st — Stitch
rnd — Round
BLO — Back loop only
( ) — Work the stitches inside the parentheses the number of times indicated
Pattern Notes
Work in continuous spiral rounds throughout unless otherwise noted. Do not join at the end of each round unless the pattern specifically tells you to. Move your stitch marker up to the first stitch of each new round to keep your place.
The finished pig will be approximately 5 to 6 inches tall when sitting, depending on your tension. The “lazy” pose is achieved by the way the body is constructed — slightly oval and weighted toward the bottom — and by keeping the legs short and stubby so the pig appears to be happily sprawled out.
Let’s Crochet: Step-by-Step Instructions
The Body
The body is the largest piece and the heart of the whole project, so we are going to start here.
Round 1: Make a magic ring and work 6 sc into the ring. Pull the tail to close. (6 sts)
Round 2: Inc in each stitch around. (12 sts)
Round 3: Sc 1, inc repeat around. (18 sts)
Round 4: Sc 2, inc repeat around. (24 sts)
Round 5: Sc 3, inc repeat around. (30 sts)
Round 6: Sc 4, inc repeat around. (36 sts)
Round 7: Sc 5, inc repeat around. (42 sts)
Round 8: Sc 6, inc repeat around. (48 sts)
Rounds 9 through 18: Sc in each stitch around. (48 sts) — work these ten rounds straight with no increases or decreases.
Now we begin shaping the top of the body.
Round 19: Sc 6, dec repeat around. (42 sts)
Round 20: Sc 5, dec repeat around. (36 sts)
Round 21: Sc 4, dec repeat around. (30 sts)
At this point, insert your safety eyes between rounds 12 and 13, spacing them roughly 7 stitches apart. If you are going to embroider the eyes instead, skip this step for now.
Begin stuffing the body firmly. Keep stuffing as you close the piece.
Round 22: Sc 3, dec repeat around. (24 sts)
Round 23: Sc 2, dec repeat around. (18 sts)
Round 24: Sc 1, dec repeat around. (12 sts)
Round 25: Dec around. (6 sts)
Cut yarn, leaving a tail. Use your yarn needle to thread the tail through the front loops of the remaining 6 stitches, pull tight to close the opening, and weave in the end. Set the body aside.
The Head
The head is worked the same way as the body up to a slightly larger size before being decreased, giving it a satisfyingly round shape.
Round 1: Magic ring, 6 sc. (6 sts)
Round 2: Inc in each stitch. (12 sts)
Round 3: Sc 1, inc repeat. (18 sts)
Round 4: Sc 2, inc repeat. (24 sts)
Round 5: Sc 3, inc repeat. (30 sts)
Round 6: Sc 4, inc repeat. (36 sts)
Round 7: Sc 5, inc repeat. (42 sts)
Rounds 8 through 14: Sc around. (42 sts)
Round 15: Sc 5, dec repeat. (36 sts)
Round 16: Sc 4, dec repeat. (30 sts)
Place the safety eyes between rounds 10 and 11, about 8 stitches apart. Stuff the head firmly.
Round 17: Sc 3, dec repeat. (24 sts)
Round 18: Sc 2, dec repeat. (18 sts)
Round 19: Sc 1, dec repeat. (12 sts)
Round 20: Dec around. (6 sts)
Close and secure as before. Leave a long yarn tail for attaching the head to the body.
The Snout
The snout is what gives this little pig its unmistakable personality. Use your slightly darker pink yarn here if you have it.
Round 1: Magic ring, 6 sc. (6 sts)
Round 2: Inc in each stitch. (12 sts)
Round 3: Sc 1, inc repeat. (18 sts)
Round 4: Sc in BLO around. (18 sts)
Round 5: Sc around. (18 sts)
Sl st in next stitch to finish. Cut yarn and leave a long tail. Lightly stuff the snout — just enough to give it a slight puff — and sew it to the front center of the head, centered just below the eyes. Once attached, use black yarn or an embroidery thread to stitch two small oval nostrils on the front of the snout.
The Ears
Make two.
Row 1: Start with a magic ring, ch 1, work 6 sc into ring. Do not pull ring completely closed yet.
Row 2: Ch 1, turn. Inc in each stitch. (12 sts)
Row 3: Ch 1, turn. Sc 1, inc repeat. (18 sts)
Fold the ear in half so the two bottom corners meet, and sl st them together. This gives the ear a natural curved shape. Leave a long tail for sewing.
Attach the ears to the top sides of the head, angling them very slightly forward for that classic pig look. You can position them closer together for a more alert expression or further apart for a sleepier, lazier vibe — given the theme of this pig, a wider, more relaxed placement is perfect.
The Legs
Make four. These are intentionally short and chubby, perfect for a pig who has no intention of standing up anytime soon.
Round 1: Magic ring, 6 sc. (6 sts)
Round 2: Inc in each stitch. (12 sts)
Rounds 3 and 4: Sc around. (12 sts)
Round 5: Working in BLO, sc around. (12 sts) — This creates a slight ridge that mimics a little hoof.
Rounds 6 and 7: Sc around. (12 sts)
Stuff lightly. Flatten the top of the leg and sl st or sc across the opening to close it flat. This makes attaching them much easier. Leave a long tail for sewing.
For the front legs, position them on either side of the lower front of the body, angling outward slightly so the pig looks like it is lounging. For the back legs, attach them near the bottom sides of the body, pointing slightly downward. This positioning is key to achieving that lazy, relaxed silhouette.
The Tail
The curly tail is one of the most delightful details on a pig amigurumi, and it is easier than it looks.
Chain 10. Working back along the chain, work 3 sc into each chain stitch. This will cause the tail to curl in on itself naturally. Fasten off and leave a tail for attaching.
Sew the tail to the back center of the body, just above where the bottom rounds begin. Fluff and arrange the curl so it sits in a perfect little spiral.
Assembling Your Lazy Pig
Now comes the most satisfying part: putting your pig together. Lay out all of your pieces and take a moment to appreciate how far you have come.
Start by attaching the head to the body. Position the head so it sits slightly forward on the body — tilted just a touch downward works really well for the lazy pose, as if the pig is looking at something interesting on the ground (probably food). Use your long yarn tail and the yarn needle to whip stitch around the entire base of the head, sewing it securely to the top of the body. Check the alignment as you go and adjust before you pull the stitches tight.
Next, sew on the snout if you have not already done so, and embroider the nostrils. Then attach the ears, followed by the four legs. Take your time positioning the legs — this is where the personality of your pig really comes through. Sew each one securely using several passes of yarn so they hold up well to being handled and cuddled.
Finally, attach the curly tail to the back of the body.
If you are embroidering the eyes, now is the time to do so. Use black yarn and a small backstitch or satin stitch to create slightly oval or round eyes. Adding a tiny white highlight stitch to each eye gives them a wonderfully bright, expressive look.
Tips for the Best Results
Working amigurumi for the first time or the hundredth time, a few habits will always improve your finished pieces. Use a stitch marker consistently — it saves so much frustration when you are trying to count rounds later. Do not rush the stuffing step; taking the time to stuff each piece evenly before closing makes a huge difference in the final look. If you notice any small gaps or holes in your fabric from loose tension, add a tiny extra bit of stuffing to push those areas out from the inside rather than trying to fix the crochet itself.
When sewing pieces together, waxing your thread or using a doubled strand of yarn adds durability, especially for a toy that might get a lot of love from a child or a pet-curious household.
Blocking is not typically done with amigurumi, but if your pig’s body looks a little lopsided after stuffing, gently reshaping it while the yarn is slightly damp and letting it dry in the position you want can help.
Customizing Your Lazy Pig
One of the joys of amigurumi is how endlessly customizable they are. You can dress your pig in a tiny crocheted flower crown, add a little bow between the ears, or even crochet a tiny blanket for it to burrow under — which would lean into the “lazy” theme in the most delightful way possible.
Changing the yarn color opens up a whole world of options. A lavender pig, a mint green pig, a classic white pig with a pink snout — all of these work beautifully with this same pattern. You could also experiment with the eye style, using felt circles or buttons instead of safety eyes for a different aesthetic, or adding long crocheted eyelashes for extra drama.
If you want to make a family of lazy pigs, try making a few in different sizes by changing your yarn weight and hook size. The same pattern in chunky yarn with a 6mm hook produces a much bigger, even more huggable pig, while fingering weight yarn and a 2.5mm hook creates a tiny pocket-sized version that is almost too cute to handle.
A Few Words About This Pattern’s Accessibility
One thing that makes this pattern special is that it truly is accessible to beginners. The only stitches you need to know are the magic ring, single crochet, increase, and decrease — four techniques that most beginners learn in their very first week of crocheting. There is no complicated colorwork, no complicated shaping, and no frustrating seams that require precise alignment. The pieces go together intuitively, and even if your pig comes out a little lopsided or asymmetrical, that just gives it character.
That said, if you are brand new to crochet, do not skip learning the invisible decrease before you start. It makes a noticeable difference in how smooth and polished the finished amigurumi looks compared to the standard two-stitch decrease. There are excellent video tutorials available for this technique if the written description is hard to follow.
Share Your Lazy Pig
Once your pig is finished, we would absolutely love to see it. Share your photos on social media and tag your creation so other crafters can admire your work. Seeing how different makers interpret the same pattern — different colors, different expressions, different accessories — is one of the most inspiring parts of being part of the crochet community.
If you run into any trouble with a step or have questions about sizing and materials, feel free to leave a comment. Crochet patterns can sometimes be tricky to follow in written form, and there is no shame
