Crochet Cow Amigurumi | Free Pattern | Step-by-Step Tutorial
There is something undeniably charming about a handmade stuffed animal sitting on a shelf, tucked into a gift bag, or nestled in the hands of a child who loves it more than anything. Amigurumi, the Japanese art of crocheting small stuffed figures, has taken the crafting world by storm, and among all the adorable animals you can make, the cow holds a very special place. With its round body, big eyes, and black-and-white patches, a crochet cow amigurumi manages to be both simple and completely irresistible.
This free crochet cow amigurumi pattern is designed for anyone who already knows the basics of crochet. If you can work a magic ring, single crochet, increase, decrease, and slip stitch, you have everything you need to finish this project. The full step-by-step tutorial below walks you through every piece of the cow from the body and head to the ears, horns, legs, and tail, so you never have to guess what comes next.
Materials You Will Need
Before you start crocheting, gather everything on this list. Having your supplies ready saves you from stopping mid-project to dig through your craft bins.
Yarn: Worsted weight yarn in white and black. You will use white as your main color and black for the spots, hooves, and nose details. A small amount of pink is optional for the inner ears and the nose.
Hook: A 3.5 mm or 4 mm crochet hook works well with worsted weight yarn for a tight, firm fabric that keeps the stuffing inside.
Safety eyes: 12 mm black safety eyes. These give your cow a polished, professional look and are very secure once attached. If you are making this for a child under three, embroider the eyes instead.
Polyfill stuffing: A good-quality polyester fiberfill will keep your cow looking plump and cute for years. Do not skimp here. Well-stuffed amigurumi hold their shape much better than loosely stuffed ones.
Yarn needle: A blunt tapestry needle for sewing pieces together and weaving in ends.
Stitch markers: These are a lifesaver in amigurumi because you always work in continuous rounds without closing them. A stitch marker at the beginning of each round tells you exactly where you are.
Scissors: Sharp enough to give you a clean cut.
Abbreviations Used in This Pattern
This pattern uses standard US crochet terminology.
MR — Magic ring
SC — Single crochet
INC — Increase (two single crochets in the same stitch)
DEC — Invisible decrease (insert hook through front loops of next two stitches, yarn over, pull through both loops, yarn over, pull through both loops on hook)
SL ST — Slip stitch
CH — Chain
FLO — Front loops only
BLO — Back loops only
ST — Stitch
( ) — Work instructions inside parentheses into the same stitch
[ ] x — Repeat instructions inside brackets the number of times indicated
Gauge and Finished Size
With a 4 mm hook and worsted weight yarn, the finished cow stands approximately 7 to 8 inches tall when seated. Gauge is not critical for amigurumi, but keep in mind that a tighter tension produces a firmer fabric and prevents the stuffing from showing through.
A Note on Working in Rounds
All amigurumi pieces are worked in continuous spiraling rounds unless otherwise stated. Do not join rounds with a slip stitch or chain one unless the pattern specifically tells you to. Place a stitch marker in the first stitch of each round and move it up as you go. This is the method that gives amigurumi their seamless, professional look.
Part One: The Body
The body is crocheted from the bottom up. Use white yarn throughout this section.
Round 1: MR, 6 SC into ring. (6 sts)
Round 2: INC in each st around. (12 sts)
Round 3: [SC 1, INC] x6. (18 sts)
Round 4: [SC 2, INC] x6. (24 sts)
Round 5: [SC 3, INC] x6. (30 sts)
Round 6: [SC 4, INC] x6. (36 sts)
Round 7: [SC 5, INC] x6. (42 sts)
Round 8: [SC 6, INC] x6. (48 sts)
Rounds 9–20: SC in each st around. (48 sts) — This is 12 rounds of even single crochet. These rounds form the tall, barrel-shaped body of your cow.
Round 21: [SC 6, DEC] x6. (42 sts)
Round 22: [SC 5, DEC] x6. (36 sts)
Round 23: [SC 4, DEC] x6. (30 sts)
Begin stuffing the body firmly now. Continue adding stuffing as you close the piece.
Round 24: [SC 3, DEC] x6. (24 sts)
Round 25: [SC 2, DEC] x6. (18 sts)
Round 26: [SC 1, DEC] x6. (12 sts)
Round 27: DEC x6. (6 sts)
Fasten off, leaving a short tail. Use your yarn needle to weave through the front loops of the remaining 6 stitches and pull tight to close. Weave in the end. Set the body aside.
Part Two: The Head
The head is the most important piece because the face tells the whole story of your cow’s personality. Use white yarn.
Round 1: MR, 6 SC into ring. (6 sts)
Round 2: INC in each st around. (12 sts)
Round 3: [SC 1, INC] x6. (18 sts)
Round 4: [SC 2, INC] x6. (24 sts)
Round 5: [SC 3, INC] x6. (30 sts)
Round 6: [SC 4, INC] x6. (36 sts)
Round 7: [SC 5, INC] x6. (42 sts)
Rounds 8–16: SC in each st around. (42 sts)
Round 17: [SC 5, DEC] x6. (36 sts)
Round 18: [SC 4, DEC] x6. (30 sts)
Attach your safety eyes now, between rounds 12 and 13, about 8 to 10 stitches apart. This is the best time to do it because you still have easy access to the inside of the head. Once the eyes are clicked into place, you cannot remove them without special tools.
Round 19: [SC 3, DEC] x6. (24 sts)
Begin stuffing the head firmly.
Round 20: [SC 2, DEC] x6. (18 sts)
Round 21: [SC 1, DEC] x6. (12 sts)
Round 22: DEC x6. (6 sts)
Fasten off and close as with the body. Leave a long tail for sewing the head to the body later. Set aside.
Part Three: The Snout
The snout gives your cow that sweet, boxy muzzle. Use pink or a very light cream yarn if you have it, or simply use white.
Round 1: MR, 6 SC into ring. (6 sts)
Round 2: INC in each st around. (12 sts)
Round 3: [SC 1, INC] x6. (18 sts)
Round 4: [SC 2, INC] x6. (24 sts)
Rounds 5–7: SC in each st around. (24 sts)
Fasten off, leaving a long tail. Do not stuff the snout. It looks best when it is gently filled only by the act of sewing it flat against the face. Before sewing, use black yarn to embroider two small oval nostrils on the front of the snout. Two or three horizontal stitches per nostril, placed about 4 stitches apart, create a cute, classic cow nose.
Part Four: The Legs (Make 4)
All four legs are worked the same way. Use black yarn for the hoof and switch to white for the upper leg.
Round 1: With black yarn, MR, 6 SC into ring. (6 sts)
Round 2: INC in each st around. (12 sts)
Rounds 3–5: SC in each st around. (12 sts)
Switch to white yarn.
Round 6: Working in BLO, SC in each st around. (12 sts) — Working through the back loops only creates a defined ridge that marks the line between hoof and leg beautifully.
Rounds 7–12: SC in each st around. (12 sts)
Fasten off on two of the legs, leaving only a short tail for weaving in. Leave a long tail on the other two for sewing. Stuff the legs lightly, just enough to give them a little shape without making them stiff. If the back legs are too stuffed, the cow will not sit properly.
Part Five: The Ears (Make 2)
Cow ears are flat and wide, which means you work them in rows, not rounds. Use white yarn.
Row 1: CH 7, starting from the second chain from the hook, SC in each ch across. (6 sts) CH 1, turn.
Row 2: INC, SC 4, INC. (8 sts) CH 1, turn.
Row 3: INC, SC 6, INC. (10 sts) CH 1, turn.
Rows 4–6: SC in each st across. (10 sts) CH 1, turn.
Row 7: DEC, SC 6, DEC. (8 sts) CH 1, turn.
Row 8: DEC, SC 4, DEC. (6 sts) CH 1, turn.
Fasten off, leaving a long tail. Pinch the bottom of the ear slightly so that the two bottom corners overlap a little, giving the ear a natural cupped shape. This pinch is what makes the ears look lifelike rather than stiff and flat. If you want pink inner ears, cut a small oval from pink felt and glue it to the center of the ear, or embroider a few pink stitches down the middle.
Part Six: The Horns (Make 2)
Round 1: With cream or off-white yarn, MR, 4 SC into ring. (4 sts)
Round 2: INC in each st around. (8 sts)
Rounds 3–6: SC in each st around. (8 sts)
Fasten off, leaving a long sewing tail. These horns are small, short, and stubby, which keeps your cow looking cute rather than intimidating. Do not stuff the horns. They hold their shape fine when they are sewn tightly against the head.
Part Seven: The Tail
Round 1: With white yarn, MR, 4 SC into ring. (4 sts)
Rounds 2–8: SC in each st around. (4 sts)
Fasten off, leaving a long sewing tail. For the tuft at the end, cut 4 to 5 short lengths of black yarn, fold them in half, and use a crochet hook to pull them through the tip of the tail as a fringe. Trim the fringe so it is about half an inch long and a little fluffy.
Part Eight: The Black Spots
This is one of the most creative parts of making a cow amigurumi because every cow has her own unique markings. There are two ways to add spots. The first is to crochet flat oval or irregular shapes in black yarn and sew them onto the body. The second is to work the spots directly into your rounds using the intarsia or tapestry crochet method, which is more advanced.
For beginners, the sewn-on method is far easier and looks just as good. To make a spot, start with a magic ring, work 6 single crochets into it, then increase in each stitch for one or two rounds until you have a small oval about the size you want. Fasten off, leave a long tail, and sew it flat against the body. Make two or three spots in different sizes and place them wherever feels right to you. One classic look is a large spot on the back, a smaller one near the hip, and one on the head near the ear.
Part Nine: Assembling Your Cow
Assembly is where your separate pieces transform into a real cow, and it is worth taking your time here. A carefully assembled amigurumi looks polished and intentional. A rushed one can look lopsided and sad.
Attaching the head: Position the head on top of the body with the face pointing forward. The bottom of the head should sit flat against the top of the body. Use the long yarn tail and your tapestry needle to sew around the neck opening, stitching through both the head and body in a neat circle. Pull firmly as you go so there is no gap. When you have gone all the way around, knot the thread securely on the inside and bury the tail in the body.
Attaching the snout: Center the snout on the lower half of the face, between the eyes and the bottom of the head. Sew around the entire edge, stuffing it lightly with a little polyfill just before you close the seam. This tiny amount of stuffing makes the snout pop forward realistically.
Attaching the ears: Position each ear on either side of the head, with the pinched base against the head. The ears should sit just above where the horns will go, roughly at round 8 or 9 from the top of the head. Sew each ear securely, stitching back and forth through the base of the ear and into the head several times to make sure they cannot be pulled off.
Attaching the horns: Place the horns on top of the head, just in front of the ears and slightly toward the center. Sew them down firmly through the open base of each horn and into the head. If you want the horns to curve inward slightly, angle them as you sew and pin them in place before making your final stitches.
Attaching the legs: The front two legs attach to the lower sides of the body, about halfway up. The back two legs attach at the base of the body, near the bottom edge, positioned so the cow can sit upright without falling backward. Pin all four legs in place before sewing any of them, and check the balance of your cow by sitting it on a flat surface. Adjust as needed, then sew each leg using the long tail, stitching through the opening of the leg and into the body multiple times.
Attaching the tail: Sew the tail to the back lower center of the body. A few firm stitches through the opening are enough.
Adding the spots: Sew your black spot pieces flat against the body and head wherever you like. There is no wrong answer. Let your instincts guide you and remember that every cow is one of a kind.
Tips for a Beautiful Finished Cow
Tension matters more in amigurumi than in most other crochet projects. A tight, even tension means the stuffing stays inside where it belongs and the surface of your cow looks smooth and dense. If you can see the stuffing peeking through your stitches, try a smaller hook or work more tightly.
The invisible decrease is worth learning if you have not already. It creates a much flatter, neater decrease than the standard single crochet decrease, which can leave a visible bump. The invisible decrease is worked by inserting your hook through the front loops only of the next two stitches together.
Burying your yarn tails inside the stuffing rather than weaving them out through the fabric gives a cleaner finish. After knotting your tail securely on the inside, thread it onto your needle and push the needle deep into the stuffing, then bring it out somewhere else and cut the yarn close to the surface. The tail will retract into the stuffing and disappear.
