Free Knitting Pattern: Faux Fur Heart Pillow
There is something deeply satisfying about making something soft, beautiful, and completely functional with your own two hands. A faux fur heart pillow sits at that perfect intersection of cozy and charming — the kind of home accent that looks like it came from a boutique but actually came from your needles and a few hours of happy crafting. Whether you are knitting this as a gift for Valentine’s Day, a bedroom refresh, or just because you love the idea of a plush, heart-shaped cushion sitting on your couch, this pattern is here to walk you through every step.
This free knitting pattern is written for knitters with some basic experience under their belt — you should be comfortable with casting on, knitting, purling, and basic shaping — but it is not so complex that intermediate crafters will feel overwhelmed. The faux fur yarn does most of the heavy lifting in terms of visual drama, so even simple stockinette stitch becomes something lush and dimensional the moment you start working with it.
Let’s dive into everything you need to know before you cast on your first stitch.
Why Faux Fur Yarn Makes Such a Stunning Pillow
Faux fur yarn has had a moment in the knitting world for good reason. It mimics the look and feel of real fur without any of the ethical concerns, and it comes in a wide variety of colors and pile lengths. For a heart pillow, it adds a tactile quality that regular yarn simply cannot replicate. Running your hand across the finished surface feels indulgent and plush, and the slight shimmer that many faux fur yarns carry gives the pillow a soft glow that photographs beautifully.
One thing to keep in mind is that faux fur yarn can be trickier to work with than your everyday worsted weight. The fibers obscure your stitches, which makes it harder to see where you are in the pattern and nearly impossible to count rows visually. This is actually one of the reasons this pattern leans on simple stockinette — there are no elaborate cables or lace elements to track. The yarn itself is the star, and your job is simply to shape it into something wonderful.
If you have never worked with faux fur yarn before, do yourself a favor and swatch a few inches before starting the actual pillow. Get comfortable with how the yarn feeds from the ball, how the fibers brush against your fingers, and how the fabric drapes off your needles. That twenty-minute investment will make the rest of the project much more enjoyable.
Materials You Will Need
Before you begin, gather everything so your crafting session stays focused and flow-inducing rather than interrupted by supply runs.
For the yarn, you will need approximately 200 to 250 yards of bulky or super bulky faux fur yarn for the front panel, and an additional 200 to 250 yards of the same or a coordinating solid color yarn for the back panel. Many knitters choose to make the back panel from a soft, plain yarn in a matching or complementary color — think a creamy white back with a blush pink fur front, or a charcoal gray solid behind a deep burgundy fur. This keeps the pillow comfortable to lean against (faux fur on your neck for hours is not always ideal) while giving the front that luxurious, eye-catching look.
You will need a pair of US size 13 (9 mm) knitting needles or the size required to achieve gauge with your chosen yarn. Some faux fur yarns work best on slightly larger needles to allow the fibers room to puff out and express themselves fully, so check the yarn label and be willing to size up one or two steps if the fabric feels stiff or dense.
Additional materials include a heart-shaped pillow insert in your desired size — 14 inches or 16 inches works beautifully for a decorative throw pillow — along with a tapestry needle for seaming, stitch markers, a measuring tape, scissors, and a few yards of waste yarn or stitch holders if you prefer to hold stitches rather than bind off during shaping.
Understanding the Construction
This pillow is knitted in two flat panels: a front panel worked in faux fur yarn and a back panel worked in your solid or coordinating yarn. Both panels are shaped to approximate a heart using increases, decreases, and a central divide at the top of the heart to create the characteristic dip between the two lobes.
Once both panels are complete, they are seamed together on three sides, the pillow insert is tucked inside, and the final edge is seamed closed. This construction method means there are no complicated short rows or provisional cast-ons to worry about. The shaping is accomplished through a combination of simple increases along the sides and decreases worked near the top, followed by a split that allows each lobe to be worked separately.
The finished pillow will measure approximately 14 inches across at the widest point and 13 inches tall from the bottom point to the top of the lobes, which fits a standard heart pillow insert very comfortably. If you want a larger or smaller pillow, the gauge section below will help you adjust.
Gauge
With faux fur yarn on US 13 needles: 9 stitches and 12 rows = 4 inches in stockinette stitch.
Gauge matters more here than you might expect, because the shaping math is built around these numbers. If your gauge is looser, your pillow will come out larger; if it is tighter, it will come out smaller. Swatch, measure, and adjust your needle size accordingly. Block your swatch by laying it flat and allowing it to fully rest before measuring — faux fur yarn can spring back more than expected when it comes off the needles.
Abbreviations Used in This Pattern
CO = cast on, K = knit, P = purl, K2tog = knit two together (right-leaning decrease), SSK = slip, slip, knit (left-leaning decrease), M1L = make one left (left-leaning increase), M1R = make one right (right-leaning increase), RS = right side, WS = wrong side, st(s) = stitch(es), rep = repeat, PM = place marker, SM = slip marker.
The Pattern: Front Panel (Faux Fur)
The heart is worked from the bottom point upward, which is a beautifully intuitive construction because you begin with just a handful of stitches at the tip and watch the piece grow outward and upward into the full, rounded bottom of the heart before dividing for the lobes.
Cast On: CO 3 stitches.
Row 1 (RS): K1, M1R, K1, M1L, K1. You now have 5 stitches.
Row 2 (WS): Purl across.
Row 3: K1, M1R, knit to last stitch, M1L, K1. You now have 7 stitches.
Continue in this manner, working the increase row on every right side row and purling all wrong side rows, until you have 32 stitches on your needles. At this point the bottom section of the heart is nicely established and you will see that characteristic rounded curve beginning to form.
Work 4 rows even in stockinette (no increases) to create the wide, flat midsection of the heart.
Divide for Lobes: On the next right side row, knit the first 16 stitches, then place the remaining 16 stitches on a holder or waste yarn. You will now work only on the first 16 stitches to form the left lobe.
Left Lobe Shaping:
Row 1 (WS): Purl across.
Row 2 (RS): K1, M1R, knit to last 3 stitches, K2tog, K1.
Repeat these two rows 4 more times. This creates a subtle outward curve on the outer edge of the lobe while the inner edge (which will become the center dip) starts to slope inward.
Work 2 rows even.
Next decrease row (RS): SSK, knit to last 2 stitches, K2tog. You now have 14 stitches.
Repeat the decrease row every RS row 5 more times until 4 stitches remain.
Bind off remaining 4 stitches.
Return to held stitches for the right lobe. Rejoin yarn with RS facing.
Right Lobe Shaping:
Row 1 (RS): K1, SSK, knit to last stitch, M1L, K1.
Row 2 (WS): Purl across.
Repeat these two rows 4 more times, mirroring the left lobe shaping.
Work 2 rows even.
Next decrease row (RS): SSK, knit to last 2 stitches, K2tog. You now have 14 stitches.
Repeat the decrease row every RS row 5 more times until 4 stitches remain.
Bind off remaining 4 stitches.
The Pattern: Back Panel (Solid Yarn)
Work the back panel exactly as you worked the front panel, substituting your solid or coordinating yarn. The construction, stitch counts, and shaping are identical. The only difference is the yarn, which gives the back a smooth, clean finish that contrasts beautifully with the plush front.
Some knitters prefer to work the back panel in seed stitch or a simple rib for extra texture, which is a completely valid creative choice. Just be aware that these stitch patterns can pull in slightly, so you may need to adjust your needle size or add a stitch or two to maintain the same overall dimensions.
Finishing and Seaming
This is where the pillow comes to life, and a little patience here goes a long way toward a professional-looking result.
Lay both completed panels flat, right sides facing outward, and align them carefully. The faux fur front can be a little temperamental about lying flat — use blocking pins to hold the pieces in position if needed, or simply hold them together with a few locking stitch markers while you seam.
Thread your tapestry needle with a length of your solid yarn (it seams more neatly than faux fur) and use a mattress stitch or whip stitch along the outer edges of the heart, starting at the bottom point and working up one side, across the top of the first lobe, down into the center dip, back up the second lobe, and then partway down the other side — leaving an opening of about 5 to 6 inches at the lower side edge for inserting the pillow form.
Insert your heart pillow form, taking a moment to adjust it so the stuffing fills the lobes and point evenly. A heart pillow insert can sometimes settle unevenly, so spend a little time coaxing it into shape before you close up the seam. Finish seaming the opening closed with the same stitch, weave in all your ends securely (faux fur yarn ends in particular should be woven in multiple directions to keep them from working loose), and trim any excess.
Turn the pillow over and give the faux fur side a gentle brush with a wide-tooth comb or a pet slicker brush. This restores the pile and makes any areas that got flattened during seaming look lush and full again. A few strokes in different directions will lift the fibers and give your finished pillow that just-bought look.
Customization Ideas
One of the best things about a simple pattern like this is how much room it leaves for personal expression.
You can completely transform the look by switching yarn colors. A deep jewel tone like emerald green or sapphire blue in faux fur makes a dramatic statement piece, while a classic white or cream reads as clean and romantic. For a more playful pillow, try a multicolored faux fur with flecks of different hues — they tend to look wonderfully wild and bohemian.
If you want to add embellishment, the solid back panel is a great canvas. A simple embroidered initial in the center, a row of blanket stitch around the border in a contrasting color, or even a few sewn-on buttons can add personality without competing with the texture of the front.
For a smaller version perfect as a sachet or ornament, simply cast on fewer stitches and use a fingering weight faux fur yarn with much smaller needles. Stuff it with polyester fiberfill and a handful of dried lavender for a fragrant keepsake.
If you are making a set of matching pillows for a bed or couch, consider varying the scale rather than the color — a large 16-inch heart pillow flanked by two smaller 10-inch versions in the same yarn creates a cohesive, styled look that feels intentional and gathered rather than mismatched.
Troubleshooting Common Issues
The most common frustration with faux fur knitting is losing track of your place in the pattern because the stitches are so difficult to see. The best solution is to count stitches at the end of every single row during the shaping sections, and to use a row counter diligently. Do not trust your eyes to tell you whether you have increased or decreased correctly — use your stitch count as your compass.
If the edges of your heart are looking wavy or ruffled rather than smooth, you may be working the increases too loosely or your tension is varying across the row. Try consciously keeping your tension even and consistent, and remember that blocking the finished panels before seaming can smooth out a lot of minor inconsistencies.
If you find seaming the faux fur awkward, a helpful trick is to separate the fibers gently along the edge stitches with your fingertip before inserting the tapestry needle. This makes the stitches easier to identify and helps you achieve a cleaner seam line.
Caring for Your Finished Pillow
Faux fur yarn is typically made from synthetic fibers, which means it responds well to gentle hand washing or a delicate machine cycle in a mesh laundry bag with cold water. Avoid hot water and high heat drying, both of which can melt or mat the fibers permanently. Lay the pillow flat to air dry and give it a gentle brush once it is fully dry to restore the pile.
Spot cleaning with a damp cloth and a tiny drop of mild dish soap handles most small stains without requiring a full wash.
A Note on Gift Giving
A handmade faux fur heart pillow is one of those gifts that carries obvious intention and effort. It is the kind of thing people keep for years, not because it is particularly fragile or precious in a monetary sense, but because someone made it for them with care and time. If you are making this as a gift, consider tucking a small handwritten tag inside the seam opening before closing it up — a date, a name, a little note — so the recipient has something personal to discover when they one day check the care label.
That hidden note is the kind of detail that transforms a lovely handmade object into a genuinely meaningful one, and it costs you nothing but a moment of thought and a scrap of paper.
Happy knitting. May your faux fur be fluffy, your seams be tidy, and your finished heart pillow find a spot on something cozy.
