How to Crochet a Phone Case: A Step-by-Step Tutorial for Beginners and Beyond
There is something deeply satisfying about crafting something both beautiful and practical. A crocheted phone case sits right at that intersection — it protects your phone, shows off your creativity, and makes a wonderful handmade gift. Whether you are brand new to crochet or have a few projects under your belt, this tutorial will walk you through everything you need to know to make your very own custom phone case from scratch.
By the end of this guide, you will have a finished phone case that fits your device snugly, looks polished, and can be customized in any color or stitch pattern you love. Let’s dive in.
Why Crochet a Phone Case?
Before we get into the how, let’s talk about the why. Store-bought phone cases are everywhere, and many of them are perfectly functional. But a crocheted phone case offers something no mass-produced product can: it is entirely yours.
Crochet phone cases are soft and cushioning, which means they can absorb minor bumps and drops better than you might expect. The texture of yarn provides a grip that many smooth plastic cases lack, so your phone is actually less likely to slip out of your hand. Beyond the practical benefits, a handmade case is a conversation starter. People will ask where you got it, and you get to say you made it yourself.
They also make incredible gifts. A phone case crocheted in someone’s favorite color or with their initials worked in is a thoughtful, personalized present that costs very little to make but means a great deal to receive.
And honestly? Crochet phone cases are a fantastic beginner project. They are small, quick to finish, require minimal yarn, and give you practice with foundational techniques like working in the round, increasing, and finishing edges cleanly.
What You Will Need
Gathering your materials before you start is always a good idea. Here is a full list of what you will need for this project.
Yarn: Choose a cotton yarn for best results. Cotton holds its shape well, has very little stretch (which means your phone won’t slide out), and feels smooth and clean in your hand. A weight of DK or worsted works well for most adult-sized phones. Avoid very bulky yarns for your first attempt, as they can make the case too thick to fit comfortably in a pocket.
Crochet Hook: Match your hook size to your yarn. A 3.5mm to 4.5mm hook is a good range for DK to worsted cotton. Check the yarn label for the recommended hook size, and feel free to adjust if your tension runs tight or loose.
Scissors: Any pair will do, though small, sharp embroidery scissors make it easier to weave in ends neatly.
Tapestry Needle or Yarn Needle: You will use this to weave in your starting and ending yarn tails. A blunt needle with a large eye works best with yarn.
Stitch Markers: These are optional but very helpful when you are working in the round and need to keep track of where your round begins and ends.
Your Phone: Keep it nearby so you can measure as you go. Every phone is a slightly different size, and you will want to check the fit periodically throughout the project.
Optional extras: Buttons, snaps, or a small zipper if you want a closure. Embroidery floss or contrast yarn if you want to add decoration. A piece of thin interfacing if you want to stiffen the bottom.
Understanding the Basic Stitches
If you are a complete beginner, here is a quick overview of the stitches used in this pattern. If you already know these, feel free to skip ahead.
Chain (ch): The foundation of most crochet projects. You create a chain by making a slip knot, inserting your hook, pulling up a loop, and pulling that loop through the loop already on your hook. Repeat for the length specified in the pattern.
Single Crochet (sc): The most basic stitch. Insert your hook into a stitch, pull up a loop (you now have two loops on your hook), yarn over, and pull through both loops. One single crochet made.
Slip Stitch (sl st): Used to join rounds or move across stitches without adding height. Insert your hook, yarn over, and pull through both loops in one motion.
Working in the Round: Instead of turning your work at the end of each row, you keep going in the same direction. This creates a seamless tube — exactly what you want for a phone case.
Getting Your Gauge Right
Gauge matters more than beginners often realize. If your stitches are too loose, your phone will fall out. If they are too tight, the case will be stiff and hard to use. Before you start the actual pattern, crochet a small gauge swatch.
Chain about 15 stitches and work 10 rows of single crochet. Lay this flat without stretching it and measure how many stitches fit into 2 inches and how many rows fit into 2 inches. Compare this to the yarn label’s suggested gauge and adjust your hook size if needed. Going up a hook size creates larger, looser stitches. Going down creates smaller, tighter ones.
For a phone case, erring slightly on the tighter side is generally better, because you want a bit of structure and security.
Taking Your Phone’s Measurements
Measure your phone’s width and height in inches or centimeters. Write these down. You will also want to note the thickness, especially if you have a bulky phone.
For this tutorial, we are working with measurements that suit a typical modern smartphone — roughly 3 inches wide and 6 inches tall. If your phone is significantly different in size, I will explain exactly how to adjust the pattern as we go.
The Pattern: Classic Single Crochet Phone Case
This pattern creates a simple, clean phone case worked from the bottom up in the round. It has a smooth finish, stretches just slightly to accommodate your phone, and can be embellished as much or as little as you like.
Abbreviations used:
ch = chain, sc = single crochet, sl st = slip stitch, st = stitch, rnd = round
Pattern notes: This pattern is worked in continuous rounds unless otherwise noted. Use a stitch marker to mark the first stitch of each round so you always know where you are.
Step One: Creating the Foundation
Start with a slip knot and chain 19. This number of chains creates a case bottom roughly 3 inches wide with worsted weight cotton and a 4mm hook. If your phone is wider, add 2 chains for every additional half inch. If it is narrower, subtract in the same proportion.
Round 1: Starting in the second chain from the hook, sc in each chain across until you reach the last chain. Work 3 sc in the last chain (this creates the curved bottom of the case). Now rotate your work and continue along the other side of the foundation chain, sc in each remaining loop across. Work 2 sc in the very first chain you started from to close the oval. Place your stitch marker here. You should have approximately 38 stitches total.
This creates the oval-shaped bottom of your case. If you hold it up and look at it, you can see the rounded shape that will become the base of your phone pouch.
Step Two: Working the Body
Now you will work in continuous rounds of single crochet straight up, without any increases or decreases. This creates the sides and main body of the case.
Rounds 2 through 30 (approximately): Sc in each stitch around, placing a stitch marker at the beginning of each round to keep your place.
Keep checking the height against your phone. You want to stop when the case reaches the bottom edge of your phone’s camera or, if your phone has no camera on the bottom portion, when the case covers about three-quarters of the phone’s height. You are leaving room for the top opening.
For most phones, this works out to about 28 to 32 rounds, but your gauge and phone size will determine the exact number. Trust the measurement over the round count.
Step Three: Finishing the Top Edge
Once the body reaches the right height, it is time to finish the top edge. There are a few options here depending on the look you want.
Option A — Simple Single Crochet Edge: Sc around the top opening once more, then sl st to the first sc of that round. Cut your yarn, pull the tail through the loop on your hook, and pull snug. This creates a clean, flat edge.
Option B — Slip Stitch Edge: Instead of sc, work a sl st in each stitch around the top. This creates a slightly tighter, more defined edge that holds its shape well and looks very polished.
Option C — Crab Stitch (Reverse Single Crochet) Edge: This is a decorative edge worked in the opposite direction from your usual crochet. After finishing your last full round, do not turn. Instead, insert your hook into the stitch to the right (if you are right-handed), pull up a loop, and complete a single crochet. Move to the next stitch to the right and repeat all the way around. This creates a pretty twisted rope-like edge and is my personal favorite for phone cases because it gives the opening a structured, finished feel.
Step Four: Adding a Closure (Optional)
If you want your phone to stay securely inside the case, adding a closure is a great idea. Here are three easy options.
Button and Loop: Sew a button to the front of the case near the top edge. On the back, use your yarn and hook to chain about 8, then sl st back into the edge to create a small loop. Adjust the loop length so it fits snugly over the button without straining.
Snap Closure: Sew the two halves of a small magnetic or sew-on snap to the inside of the front and back top edges. This gives a clean, modern look with no visible hardware on the outside.
Fold-Over Flap: Before finishing the top edge, continue crocheting another 10 to 12 rounds beyond the phone’s height. Then decrease gradually by sc2tog (single crochet two together) across every round until you have a small triangular flap. Fold it over and attach a button or snap.
Step Five: Weaving In Your Ends
Thread your tapestry needle with one of the yarn tails and weave it through several stitches in different directions on the inside of the case. Pulling it through at least 4 or 5 stitches in a zigzag pattern ensures it won’t come undone with use. Trim the excess close to the fabric. Repeat for all remaining tails.
Customization Ideas
One of the greatest joys of making your own phone case is that you can make it look exactly the way you want. Here are some ideas to inspire you.
Color blocking: Switch yarn colors at any point during the body rounds to create bold horizontal stripes. To change colors, finish the last sc of the old color until you have two loops on your hook, then pull through with the new color. Carry the old color loosely up the inside or cut and weave in after each color block.
Variegated yarn: Use a self-striping or hand-dyed variegated yarn and let the color do all the work for you. These yarns create beautiful gradients and random color effects with zero extra effort.
Textured stitches: Once you are comfortable with the basic pattern, try swapping out some of the single crochet rounds for half double crochet or a shell stitch. Half double crochet (hdc) creates a slightly taller, softer fabric, and a shell stitch edge or accent band adds beautiful texture.
Embroidery: After finishing the case, use a tapestry needle and embroidery floss to stitch flowers, initials, small geometric shapes, or any design you like onto the surface of the case. This works beautifully with the tight single crochet fabric as a canvas.
Appliqué: Crochet a small motif separately — a tiny heart, a daisy, a star — and sew it onto the finished case. This is a wonderful way to personalize a case you are gifting to someone.
Wrist strap: Chain 30, sl st back to the base of the case at one of the bottom corners to create a small wrist loop. Reinforce it by working a few extra sl sts back and forth over the attachment point.
Troubleshooting Common Problems
The case is too loose and my phone slides around. This usually means your gauge was too loose. Try reworking the pattern with a hook that is one size smaller, or switch to a cotton yarn with less stretch.
The case is too tight and I can’t get my phone in. Your gauge is too tight. Move up a hook size or try adding 2 extra chains to your foundation.
The sides are curling inward. This is very common with single crochet and usually resolves itself once the case is blocked (dampened and allowed to dry flat). Alternatively, switch to half double crochet for the body, which has a more natural tendency to lie flat.
My rounds are spiraling visibly. This is normal with continuous rounds. The jog between rounds is a natural result of the technique. If it bothers you, you can use the “join and turn” method instead — sl st to close each round, ch 1, and begin the next round. This creates a subtle seam but eliminates the visible spiral.
The bottom looks uneven. The oval foundation can be a little tricky at first. Make sure you are working 3 sc into the turning chain and 2 sc into the first chain of your foundation to create even curves on both ends. Blocking the finished case will also smooth out any irregularities.
Caring for Your Crocheted Phone Case
Cotton yarn is generally machine washable, but to keep your phone case looking its best, a gentle hand wash in cool water is ideal. Press it gently between two clean towels to remove excess water, then reshape it and allow it to air dry flat. Avoid wringing or twisting the fabric, as this can distort the shape.
If the case stretches out over time from regular use, a quick wash and dry will usually help it recover its shape.
A Note on Yarn Choices Beyond Cotton
While cotton is the recommended fiber for this project, you have options. A cotton-acrylic blend gives you a little more stretch and softness while retaining much of cotton’s structure. Pure acrylic is very affordable and comes in an enormous range of colors, though it tends to stretch more than cotton, so you may need to work a tighter gauge. Linen or bamboo yarns are beautiful and have excellent stitch definition, though they can be a little stiffer at first and soften significantly with washing.
Avoid wool or alpaca for a phone case unless they are tightly spun and the case has a very firm gauge. These fibers tend to be too stretchy and may felt unexpectedly if the case gets wet.
Final Thoughts
A crocheted phone case is the kind of project that reminds you why you fell in love with crochet in the first place. It comes together quickly, gives you immediate and practical results, and opens the door to so much creativity. Once you have made one, you will want to make them for everyone you know — in every color, with every texture, for every occasion.
Keep your finished case as a marker of your progress, gift one to a friend, or sell them at a craft fair. However you use it, you made something with your hands that is genuinely useful and genuinely beautiful, and that is always worth celebrating.
Happy crocheting.
