How to Crochet a Hamster Amigurumi | Free Step-by-Step Pattern
If you’ve been looking for a cute, beginner-friendly amigurumi project that doesn’t take weeks to finish, a crocheted hamster might be exactly what you need. These chubby little creatures are absolutely perfect for amigurumi because their naturally round shape translates beautifully into the magic ring and single crochet technique that forms the foundation of nearly every amigurumi project. Whether you’re making this as a gift, a toy, or just a fun desk companion, this free step-by-step pattern will walk you through every detail from start to finish.
Before we dive in, let’s talk about what makes this pattern special. The hamster in this tutorial has a plump body, rounded cheek pouches, tiny ears, stubby arms and legs, and a sweet embroidered face. It’s worked mostly in the round using continuous spiral rounds, which means no seaming and no complicated stitch counts to keep track of beyond what’s listed here. If you can work a magic ring and single crochet stitches, you can make this hamster.
Materials You Will Need
Getting your materials together before you start makes the whole process smoother and more enjoyable. Here’s everything you’ll need for this project.
Yarn: You’ll need a small amount of worsted weight yarn (also called size 4 yarn) in three colors. The main body color is a warm sandy beige or light brown — think classic hamster coloring. You’ll also need a soft cream or off-white for the belly and cheek pouches, and a tiny bit of pink for the ears and nose area. Exact yardage is low since this is a small project; roughly 50 to 60 yards of the main color, 20 yards of cream, and just a few yards of pink will be more than enough.
Hook: A 3.5mm crochet hook is ideal when working with standard worsted weight yarn for amigurumi. Amigurumi generally benefits from going down a hook size or two compared to what the yarn label recommends, because the tighter gauge creates a denser fabric that prevents stuffing from showing through.
Stuffing: Polyester fiberfill stuffing is the standard choice. You’ll need enough to firmly stuff the body and head, plus a small amount for the cheek pouches.
Safety Eyes: Two 9mm black safety eyes. If you’re making this hamster for a child under three years old, embroider the eyes instead using black yarn or thread for safety reasons.
Yarn Needle: A blunt tapestry or yarn needle for sewing pieces together and weaving in ends.
Stitch Markers: At least two locking stitch markers to mark the beginning of each round, since we’re working in continuous spirals.
Scissors: A sharp pair for clean cuts.
Optional but helpful: a stuffing tool or the eraser end of a pencil for pushing fiberfill into small spaces like the ears and arms.
Abbreviations and Stitch Guide
This pattern uses standard US crochet terminology. Here’s a quick reference for every abbreviation you’ll see throughout the instructions.
MR — Magic Ring (also called a magic circle)
ch — chain
sl st — slip stitch
sc — single crochet
inc — invisible increase (work 2 sc in the same stitch)
dec — invisible decrease (insert hook through the front loops of the next two stitches and work them together as one sc)
BLO — back loop only
FLO — front loop only
st — stitch
sts — stitches
R — Round
( ) — work the stitches inside the parentheses the indicated number of times
The invisible increase and invisible decrease are worth practicing before you start if you’re new to them. The invisible decrease in particular creates a much neater result than a standard sc2tog and is strongly recommended for amigurumi.
Pattern Notes
Work in continuous spiral rounds unless otherwise stated. Do not join or turn at the end of each round unless the pattern specifically says to. Place a stitch marker at the first stitch of each round and move it up as you work.
Stuff pieces firmly as you go rather than waiting until the end. This is especially important with the body and head, since the opening closes quickly once you start decreasing.
When attaching safety eyes, position them before closing the piece completely so you can see clearly and adjust placement to your liking.
The finished hamster will measure approximately 4 inches tall and 3.5 inches wide at the widest point of the body when made with worsted weight yarn and a 3.5mm hook.
The Free Pattern
Head
The head and body are worked separately and sewn together at the end, which makes it easy to stuff each one properly and position the face before assembly.
Start with your main beige or brown yarn.
R1: MR, 6 sc in ring (6 sts)
R2: inc in each st around (12 sts)
R3: (sc 1, inc) repeat around (18 sts)
R4: (sc 2, inc) repeat around (24 sts)
R5: (sc 3, inc) repeat around (30 sts)
R6: (sc 4, inc) repeat around (36 sts)
R7: (sc 5, inc) repeat around (42 sts)
R8 through R13: sc in each st around (42 sts) — 6 rounds even
R14: (sc 5, dec) repeat around (36 sts)
R15: (sc 4, dec) repeat around (30 sts)
Before continuing, attach safety eyes. Position them between rounds 10 and 11, approximately 8 to 9 stitches apart from each other. This spacing gives the hamster a wide-eyed, adorable look. Push the backs onto the posts firmly to lock them in place.
R16: (sc 3, dec) repeat around (24 sts)
Stuff the head firmly now. Add stuffing a little at a time and check from the outside that the shape is round and smooth. Keep adding a bit more stuffing than you think you need, as it will compress slightly over time.
R17: (sc 2, dec) repeat around (18 sts)
R18: (sc 1, dec) repeat around (12 sts)
R19: dec around (6 sts)
Fasten off, leaving a long tail. Use your yarn needle to close the remaining gap by weaving through the front loops of the remaining 6 stitches and pulling tight. Weave in the end on the inside.
Cheek Pouches (Make 2)
The cheeks are one of the most charming details of this hamster. They’re worked in cream or off-white yarn and lightly stuffed before being sewn onto the sides of the face.
Switch to cream yarn.
R1: MR, 6 sc in ring (6 sts)
R2: inc in each st around (12 sts)
R3: (sc 1, inc) repeat around (18 sts)
R4 through R6: sc in each st around (18 sts) — 3 rounds even
R7: (sc 1, dec) repeat around (12 sts)
Stuff lightly — not too firm, because you want a natural, doughy look.
R8: dec around (6 sts)
Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Close the gap the same way as the head.
Set the cheeks aside. You’ll sew them onto the head in the finishing section.
Body
Switch back to your main beige or brown yarn.
R1: MR, 6 sc in ring (6 sts)
R2: inc in each st around (12 sts)
R3: (sc 2, inc) repeat around (18 sts) — wait, let’s start with:
Actually, let’s build the body from the bottom up for a nice round, flat-bottomed hamster shape.
R1: MR, 6 sc in ring (6 sts)
R2: inc in each st around (12 sts)
R3: (sc 1, inc) repeat around (18 sts)
R4: (sc 2, inc) repeat around (24 sts)
R5: (sc 3, inc) repeat around (30 sts)
R6: (sc 4, inc) repeat around (36 sts)
R7: (sc 5, inc) repeat around (42 sts)
R8 through R16: sc in each st around (42 sts) — 9 rounds even
This creates the roomy belly that makes your hamster look wonderfully round and chunky.
R17: (sc 5, dec) repeat around (36 sts)
R18: (sc 4, dec) repeat around (30 sts)
R19: (sc 3, dec) repeat around (24 sts)
Stuff the body now. Fill it generously and shape it so the bottom is relatively flat and the top is nicely domed. This will help the body sit upright and attach cleanly to the head.
R20: (sc 2, dec) repeat around (18 sts)
R21: (sc 1, dec) repeat around (12 sts)
R22: dec around (6 sts)
Fasten off, leaving a very long tail — about 18 to 20 inches — for sewing the head to the body. Close the gap as before.
Ears (Make 2)
The ears are simple and small. You have two options: work them flat or in the round. This pattern works them flat for a slightly cupped, realistic ear shape.
Switch to pink yarn.
R1: MR, 6 sc in ring (6 sts)
Switch to main beige or brown yarn.
R2: inc in each st around (12 sts)
R3: sc in each st around (12 sts)
Sl st to the first st of the round to close. Fasten off, leaving a tail for sewing. Do not stuff the ears.
If you want a more defined inner ear, you can use the pink yarn for rounds 1 and 2 and switch to beige for round 3 only.
Arms (Make 2)
Use main beige or brown yarn.
R1: MR, 5 sc in ring (5 sts)
R2: inc in each st around (10 sts)
R3 through R6: sc in each st around (10 sts) — 4 rounds even
R7: dec, sc 8 (9 sts)
R8: dec, sc 7 (8 sts)
Stuff lightly — just a pinch of fiberfill so the arms have a little substance but remain flexible enough to pose.
Flatten the top of the arm and sc across through both layers (4 sts) to close. Fasten off, leaving a tail for sewing.
Legs (Make 2)
Use main beige or brown yarn.
R1: MR, 6 sc in ring (6 sts)
R2: inc in each st around (12 sts)
R3: sc in each st around, working in BLO (12 sts) — this creates a slight ridge at the foot’s edge
R4 through R7: sc in each st around (12 sts) — 4 rounds even
R8: (sc 2, dec) repeat around (9 sts)
R9: (sc 1, dec) repeat around (6 sts)
Stuff lightly. Flatten and close the same way as the arms (sc across through both layers — 3 sts). Fasten off, leaving a tail for sewing.
Tail (Optional)
Hamsters have a tiny, adorable little nub of a tail. If you want to include it, here’s a quick one.
Use cream or pink yarn.
R1: MR, 5 sc in ring (5 sts)
R2: sc in each st around (5 sts)
R3: sc in each st around (5 sts)
Fasten off, leaving a tail for sewing. Do not stuff.
Assembly
Now comes the deeply satisfying part: putting your hamster together. Lay all your pieces out on a flat surface before you start sewing so you can visualize the finished hamster and plan placement.
Head to Body: Place the head on top of the body, aligning the center of the bottom of the head with the center top of the body. Use the long tail you left on the body to sew the two pieces together, working through the stitches around the neck line. Sew all the way around, adding more stuffing through the opening if needed before you close it completely. The seam should be nearly invisible if you work through matching stitches on each piece.
Cheek Pouches: Position the cheeks on either side of the face, just below and slightly in front of the eyes. They should rest roughly at round 12 to 14 of the head. Use the tails to sew them on with a ladder stitch, sewing through the outer edges of the cheek and into the head surface in a circular motion. The goal is for the cheeks to appear naturally puffed out and flush against the face.
Ears: Position the ears on top of the head, roughly 4 to 5 stitches apart from each other, sitting right about at round 3 or 4 from the magic ring. Flatten the bottom of each ear slightly and sew them down with the tails, using a whipstitch around the bottom edge. Make sure both ears sit at the same angle — take a step back and look at the hamster from straight on to check before you fasten off.
Arms: Sew the arms to the sides of the body at approximately rounds 3 to 4 from the top of the body (near the neck join). Position them so they angle slightly forward and downward. Use the tails and a ladder stitch for a clean attachment.
Legs: Sew the legs to the underside and sides of the lower body, toward the front. They should sit wide apart so the hamster can “sit” upright. The BLO ridge at the foot creates a nice little paw detail that faces outward.
Tail: If you made the tail, sew it to the very back and center of the lower body.
Face Embroidery
With a yarn needle and a short length of pink or light brown yarn, embroider a small nose just below the center of where the eyes are, between the two cheek pouches. A simple Y or V shape of 3 to 4 stitches works beautifully. You can also add a tiny curved smile below the nose using the same or a slightly darker yarn.
If you’re embroidering the eyes instead of using safety eyes, use black yarn to make two small circles or cross-shaped satin stitches, and add a tiny white highlight stitch in each eye for sparkle.
Tips for Success
A few things that make a real difference in the finished result: tension consistency is the biggest one. Try to keep your stitches even throughout, and if your tension is particularly loose, don’t be afraid to drop down to a 3.0mm hook. Amigurumi fabric really does benefit from being worked tightly.
Second, blocking isn’t necessary for amigurumi the way it is for garments or flat pieces, but if your finished hamster looks a little lumpy after assembly, a gentle steam from a few inches away (not directly touching the yarn) can help smooth things out.
Finally, take your time with the assembly. The sewing phase is where beginners tend to rush, and the result often looks wonky when pieces aren’t properly centered and evenly spaced. Pin everything in place with regular straight pins before sewing a single stitch. Step back. Adjust. Sew only when you’re happy with the placement.
Variations and Customization Ideas
Once you’ve made one hamster, you’ll probably want to make a whole colony. Here are some fun ways to personalize this pattern. You can change the colorway entirely — a gray hamster, a white hamster, or even a fantasy-colored purple or teal hamster all look wonderful with this silhouette. Adding a tiny accessory like a miniature bow made from ribbon, a crocheted hat worked in a 3mm hook with fingering weight yarn, or a tiny piece of “food” (a little carrot or sunflower seed) held in the arms takes the finished piece from adorable to utterly irresistible.
You can also adjust the size by changing your yarn weight. Working this same pattern in fingering weight yarn with a 2.0mm hook will produce a tiny hamster barely two inches tall, while chunky yarn on a 5.5mm hook gives you a palm
