Tunisian Spiral Rug: Free Crochet Pattern and Video Tutorial

If you’ve been looking for a crochet project that’s both satisfying to make and genuinely useful in your home, this Tunisian spiral rug pattern is exactly what you need. It’s one of those designs that looks far more complicated than it actually is, which means you’ll feel like a genius handing it to your friends and family who ask how on earth you made it. The texture is thick, sturdy, and beautiful, and the spiral construction makes the shaping practically automatic. Whether you’re a seasoned crocheter who’s done Tunisian work before or someone who’s dabbled in it but never committed to a full project, this rug is an excellent choice.

Let’s walk through everything you need to know, from materials to method, stitch by stitch.

What Is Tunisian Crochet and Why Is It Perfect for Rugs?

Tunisian crochet is a technique that sits somewhere between traditional crochet and knitting. You use a long hook — often called an Afghan hook — that can hold multiple loops at once, similar to the way stitches sit on a knitting needle. Each row of Tunisian crochet is worked in two passes: the forward pass, where you pick up loops across the row, and the return pass, where you work those loops off the hook from left to right.

The result is a dense, structured fabric with a distinctly woven appearance. That density is exactly what makes Tunisian crochet such a wonderful choice for rugs. Traditional single crochet rugs can sometimes curl at the edges or feel a little floppy underfoot. Tunisian fabric, on the other hand, lies flat almost on its own, and it’s thick enough to hold up under foot traffic without bunching or shifting.

When you add a spiral construction to that, you get a rug that grows outward from the center in a continuous, seamless circle. There are no corners to wrestle with, no seams to sew together, and no weird flat spots where the shaping went a little off. The spiral does all of that work for you, distributing the increases naturally and evenly as you go around and around.

Materials You’ll Need

Before you start, gather everything together so you’re not hunting around mid-project. Here’s what you need for a rug approximately 24 inches in diameter.

Yarn: You’ll want a bulky or super bulky weight yarn in whatever colors you like. For this pattern, approximately 400 to 500 yards of your main color and 100 to 150 yards of a contrast color will give you a finished rug in the size mentioned above. Cotton, cotton-blend, or recycled cotton yarn works beautifully for rugs because it’s washable and durable. T-shirt yarn or chunky cotton rope yarn are popular choices and give a wonderfully thick, cushioned result.

Hook: Use a Tunisian or Afghan crochet hook in a size appropriate for your yarn. For bulky yarn, a size 8mm to 10mm Tunisian hook is ideal. If you can’t find a long Afghan hook, look for a Tunisian hook with a flexible cable extension — these are easier to work with as your piece grows and the stitch count increases.

Other supplies: A stitch marker or two, a yarn needle for weaving in ends, and scissors. A non-slip rug pad cut to size is a wonderful finishing touch once your rug is done.

Understanding the Spiral Construction

A lot of crochet rugs are made in rounds, where you complete one full circle and then start a new one. Spirals are slightly different. Instead of joining each round and starting fresh, you work in a continuous spiral, which means there’s never a seam line and the increases happen gradually rather than all at once.

For this Tunisian spiral rug, the increases are spaced out around eight points of the circle. You’ll place one increase at each of these eight points on every pass, which adds just enough width to keep the rug lying flat without ruffling at the edges. If you add too many increases, the rug will start to ruffle and cup outward. Too few, and it will dome up in the center like a bowl. Eight evenly spaced increases per round is the magic formula for a flat, circular rug.

One thing that makes this pattern forgiving is that slight variations in tension are easily corrected as you go. If you notice the rug starting to cup a little, add an extra increase somewhere. If it’s ruffling, skip an increase. The spiral structure makes those adjustments very easy to incorporate without interrupting the pattern.

Free Crochet Pattern: Tunisian Spiral Rug

Abbreviations Used

• TSS — Tunisian Simple Stitch (the foundation stitch of this rug)
• FwP — Forward Pass (picking up loops)
• RetP — Return Pass (working loops off the hook)
• inc — increase (pick up two loops in the same stitch)
• ch — chain
• sl st — slip stitch

Foundation Ring

To begin your spiral rug, you’ll create a small center ring rather than starting with a flat chain.

Make a slip knot and chain 4. Join with a slip stitch to form a ring.

Round 1 (FwP): Insert your hook into the ring and pull up a loop. Continue picking up loops from the ring — pull up 7 more loops for a total of 8 loops on your hook (including your starting loop). You’ll be inserting into the center of the ring each time, not into chain stitches.

Round 1 (RetP): Work off all loops. Chain 1, then yarn over and pull through 2 loops at a time until one loop remains on your hook.

You now have 8 stitches in your center ring. Place a stitch marker in your working loop or in the first stitch of the round to help you track the beginning of each spiral pass.

Building the Spiral

From this point forward, every forward pass will include 8 increases evenly distributed around the circle. The increases are placed one in every existing stitch in Round 2, and then one in every 8th stitch in Round 3, gradually spacing out as the rug grows.

Round 2 (FwP — Full Increase Round): Pick up 2 loops in every stitch all the way around (this doubles your stitch count to 16).

Round 2 (RetP): Work all loops off your hook with the standard return pass.

Round 3 (FwP): TSS in 1 stitch, inc in next stitch — repeat all the way around. (24 stitches)

Round 3 (RetP): Standard return pass.

Round 4 (FwP): TSS in 2 stitches, inc in next stitch — repeat all the way around. (32 stitches)

Round 4 (RetP): Standard return pass.

Continue this pattern, adding one additional TSS stitch between each increase on every new round. The formula is straightforward: the number of plain TSS stitches between increases equals the round number minus 2. So by Round 10, you’ll have 8 plain TSS stitches between each increase point, giving you 80 total stitches.

This gradual spacing of the increases is what keeps your rug perfectly flat. As the circumference of the rug grows, the increases need to be spaced further apart to match it.

Adding Color

One of the most satisfying things about this rug is how easy it is to add color stripes that follow the spiral. Because you’re working in a continuous spiral, color changes create a beautiful gradual swirl rather than a hard horizontal stripe.

To change colors, simply join your new color at the beginning of a forward pass. Cut your old color (leave a 6-inch tail to weave in) and pull the new color through to begin your FwP. Continue as normal. The color spiral will naturally curve around the rug as you work, giving you that gorgeous pinwheel effect that you’ve probably seen on spiral rugs and always wondered how they did it.

For a two-color spiral design, try working 4 to 6 rounds in your main color, then 2 rounds in your contrast color, alternating as you go. For a more dramatic effect, try 8 rounds in your main color with a single round of contrast in between.

Continuing Until the Desired Size

Keep working outward, following the increase formula above, until your rug reaches the size you want. For a small accent rug or doormat, 18 to 20 inches across is perfect. For a larger bath rug or bedroom rug, aim for 24 to 30 inches. A full living room accent rug can go even larger — just keep going, adding yarn as needed, until you hit your target diameter.

To check your diameter without unrolling your rug, lay it flat on a hard surface and measure across the center. Do this every 5 rounds or so to track your progress.

Finishing the Rug

When your rug has reached the right size, it’s time to bind off cleanly.

Last FwP: Work your final forward pass as normal.

Last RetP: Instead of the standard return pass, work across using slip stitches rather than the chain-and-draw-through method. This creates a firm, clean edge that won’t flare out or roll up at the border.

Cut your yarn, leaving a 6-inch tail, and pull it through the last loop to fasten off. Thread your yarn needle and weave all ends securely into the back of the rug. Because Tunisian fabric is so dense, ends stay put very well once woven in a few inches.

Lay your finished rug flat and give it a light blocking if needed — for cotton yarn, a spritz of water and a gentle press with your hands is usually enough to encourage it to lie completely flat.

Video Tutorial Guide

If you’re a visual learner, watching this technique in action makes a huge difference. Below is a guide to what the video tutorial covers, so you can follow along section by section.

The video tutorial begins with a walkthrough of all materials and a brief explanation of how Tunisian crochet differs from standard crochet. If you’ve never picked up an Afghan hook before, the first few minutes will get you completely up to speed before you ever make your first stitch.

From there, the tutorial demonstrates the foundation ring in real time, showing exactly how to pick up loops from the center and how to work the return pass smoothly. One of the trickiest parts for new Tunisian crocheters is maintaining consistent tension on the return pass, and the video slows down at that point to show you the hand positioning that makes it easiest.

The video then walks through the first four rounds in detail, showing where each increase goes and how to use your stitch markers to keep track of your place in the spiral. After Round 4, the tutorial speeds up slightly but continues to demonstrate the increase points clearly so you can see the spiral taking shape.

Color changes are shown in the video as well, including how to carry the unused color along the inside of the rug to minimize ends (a great tip for rugs with frequent color changes), and how to join a new ball of yarn when you run out mid-round.

The final section of the tutorial covers finishing, including the slip stitch bind off and several methods for weaving in ends on a thick Tunisian fabric. There’s also a short segment on blocking cotton rugs and how to pair your finished rug with a non-slip pad underneath.

Tips for Success

Working in the round with Tunisian crochet takes a little getting used to, but a few practical tips will make the process much smoother.

Keep your tension relaxed on the forward pass. It’s very easy to pull the loops too tightly, which makes the return pass difficult and can cause the rug to pucker. Let each loop sit loosely on your hook as you work across.

Use stitch markers generously. Marking each of your 8 increase points makes it much easier to stay consistent and avoid accidentally shifting your increases around the circle, which can create a slight lopsided shape over time.

Work on a hard, flat surface when possible. Because the rug grows large and heavy, crocheting while sitting with it in your lap can cause you to tension the yarn differently than when the work is supported. Laying it on a table in front of you, especially in the later rounds, keeps things more even.

Don’t skip the non-slip pad. Tunisian crochet fabric is smooth on the back, which means rugs made with this technique can slide on hard floors. A simple non-slip rug pad underneath keeps it safely in place and also adds a bit of extra cushioning underfoot.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I make this rug with regular crochet yarn instead of bulky weight?

Absolutely. The pattern works at any weight — you’ll just need more yards and a smaller hook. A worsted weight rug will take longer and require more yarn, but the finished result will be softer and more flexible, which some people prefer for a bedroom or nursery rug.

What if my rug starts to cup or dome in the center?

This usually means you need a few more increases. Try adding one extra increase at 4 evenly spaced points in your next round and see if that brings the rug back to flat.

What if the edges are ruffling?

Ruffling means you have too many increases. Skip 2 or 3 increase points in your next round to pull the edges back in.

Can I machine wash the finished rug?

This depends on your yarn. Most cotton and cotton-blend yarns are machine washable on a gentle cycle. Check your yarn label before washing, and always air dry flat to help the rug keep its shape.

How long does this rug take to make?

A 24-inch rug in bulky yarn typically takes between 8 and 12 hours of working time, depending on your pace. Many crocheters spread it across a weekend.

Final Thoughts

The Tunisian spiral rug is one of those projects that earns a permanent spot on your favorites list. It’s the kind of thing you’ll make once, give away because someone fell in love with it, and then immediately start making again for yourself. The technique is satisfying in a way that’s hard to put into words — there’s something meditative about the forward-and-return rhythm of Tunisian crochet that makes even large projects fly by.

Once you’ve finished your first one, you’ll start looking at every room in your house differently, thinking about what size and color combination would work perfectly there. A bright striped rug for the kitchen. A soft neutral one for the bathroom. A big, bold statement piece for the entryway. The pattern scales up effortlessly and the color options are truly endless.

Save this pattern, bookmark the video tutorial, and don’t forget to share your finished rug in your favorite crochet community — seeing your finished projects inspires other crafters to pick up their hooks, and there’s nothing better than that.

Happy crocheting.