Plush Teddy Bear Crochet Pattern | Easy Chenille Amigurumi Bear & Soft Crochet Toy

If you’ve been searching for the coziest, squishiest crochet project to sink your hooks into, you’ve found it. This plush teddy bear crochet pattern is everything you want in a handmade toy — soft to the touch, beginner-friendly in structure, and absolutely irresistible once it’s finished. Whether you’re making it as a gift for a new baby, a comfort companion for a toddler, or just a decorative piece for your own shelf, this chenille amigurumi bear is the kind of project that makes people stop and ask, “Did you really make that yourself?”

Let’s walk through everything you need to know — from materials and yarn selection to every stitch, every round, and every finishing detail that makes this bear look like something you’d find in a boutique toy shop.

Why Chenille Yarn Is the Secret to the Softest Crochet Toys

Before we get into the pattern itself, it’s worth talking about yarn — specifically why chenille yarn is such a game-changer for amigurumi and soft crochet toys.

Traditional amigurumi is usually worked in cotton or acrylic yarn, which gives the finished piece a firm, structured look. That’s great for detailed designs where you need clean stitch definition. But for a teddy bear? You want softness. You want something that feels like a hug, that a child can squish against their cheek, that has that plush, velvety texture we associate with the best stuffed animals.

Chenille yarn delivers exactly that. Its looped pile construction creates a surface that’s soft and slightly raised, mimicking the look and feel of velvet or velour plush fabric. When you crochet with chenille, the individual stitches become less visible, and the finished piece looks smooth, plush, and professionally made. It’s the closest you can get to a store-bought stuffed animal using a crochet hook and your own two hands.

One thing to keep in mind: chenille yarn can be a little slippery and the stitches are harder to see than with cotton or smooth acrylic. This is why this pattern is designed with simple, consistent stitch counts that make it easy to stay on track even when you can’t see every loop as clearly. Using stitch markers is strongly recommended, especially if you’re new to working with this type of yarn.

Materials You’ll Need

To make this plush teddy bear, gather the following before you begin:

Yarn: Approximately 200–250 yards of bulky chenille yarn (size 5 or 6) in your bear’s main color. Popular color choices include warm caramel, soft taupe, classic teddy brown, cream, and dusty rose. You’ll also want a small amount of a contrasting color for the snout if you’d like it in a lighter shade.

Hook: A 5.0mm or 5.5mm crochet hook. The slightly smaller hook than what the yarn label may suggest helps keep your stitches tight so the stuffing doesn’t show through.

Stuffing: Polyfill stuffing, enough to firmly fill all pieces. Don’t be shy with the stuffing — a well-stuffed bear holds its shape beautifully and feels much more satisfying to hold.

Safety eyes: Two 12mm or 15mm black safety eyes. Always use safety eyes only for toys intended for children old enough that they won’t chew or pull at small parts (typically over 3 years). For toys intended for babies or very young children, embroider the eyes instead using black yarn.

Embroidery floss or yarn: Black, for the nose and mouth details.

Yarn needle: For sewing pieces together and weaving in ends.

Stitch markers: To mark the beginning of each round.

Scissors.

Abbreviations and Stitch Guide

This pattern uses standard US crochet terminology.

MR — Magic ring (also called magic circle)
ch — Chain
sl st — Slip stitch
sc — Single crochet
inc — Increase (2 sc in the same stitch)
dec — Invisible decrease (insert hook through front loops only of next 2 stitches, yarn over and pull through both loops, yarn over and complete stitch)
st(s) — Stitch(es)
BLO — Back loop only
FLO — Front loop only

All pieces are worked in continuous rounds (no joining or turning) unless otherwise noted. Place a stitch marker in the first stitch of each round and move it up as you work.

The Pattern

Head

The head is the star of the show — big, round, and squishy. We work it from the top down.

Round 1: MR, 6 sc into ring. (6 sts)
Round 2: Inc in each st around. (12 sts)
Round 3: *Sc 1, inc* repeat around. (18 sts)
Round 4: *Sc 2, inc* repeat around. (24 sts)
Round 5: *Sc 3, inc* repeat around. (30 sts)
Round 6: *Sc 4, inc* repeat around. (36 sts)
Round 7: *Sc 5, inc* repeat around. (42 sts)
Round 8: *Sc 6, inc* repeat around. (48 sts)
Rounds 9–17: Sc in each st around. (48 sts) — work these 9 rounds even without increasing.
Round 18: *Sc 6, dec* repeat around. (42 sts)
Round 19: *Sc 5, dec* repeat around. (36 sts)

At this point, insert safety eyes between rounds 12 and 13, spaced about 12 stitches apart. If you’re embroidering eyes, note the position and continue.

Round 20: *Sc 4, dec* repeat around. (30 sts)
Round 21: *Sc 3, dec* repeat around. (24 sts)

Begin stuffing the head firmly now, and continue stuffing as you close it.

Round 22: *Sc 2, dec* repeat around. (18 sts)
Round 23: *Sc 1, dec* repeat around. (12 sts)
Round 24: Dec around. (6 sts)

Fasten off, leaving a short tail. Use your yarn needle to close the remaining opening by weaving through the front loops of the remaining stitches and pulling tight. Weave in the end.

Snout

The snout is worked in a slightly lighter shade if desired, or the same color for a classic look.

Round 1: MR, 6 sc into ring. (6 sts)
Round 2: Inc in each st around. (12 sts)
Round 3: *Sc 1, inc* repeat around. (18 sts)
Rounds 4–5: Sc in each st around. (18 sts)

Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Lightly stuff the snout before attaching it. Center the snout on the face between the eyes, slightly below them, and sew it on securely. Once attached, embroider the nose with a few horizontal stitches of black embroidery floss across the top center of the snout, and add a small downward Y-shape for the mouth just below.

Ears (Make 2)

Round 1: MR, 6 sc into ring. (6 sts)
Round 2: Inc in each st around. (12 sts)
Round 3: *Sc 1, inc* repeat around. (18 sts)
Rounds 4–5: Sc in each st around. (18 sts)

Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Do not stuff the ears — keep them flat. Fold each ear slightly in half to create a natural curve, and pin to the head at rounds 4–5, positioned on the upper sides of the head. Sew securely into place.

Body

The body is worked from the bottom up.

Round 1: MR, 6 sc into ring. (6 sts)
Round 2: Inc in each st around. (12 sts)
Round 3: *Sc 1, inc* repeat around. (18 sts)
Round 4: *Sc 2, inc* repeat around. (24 sts)
Round 5: *Sc 3, inc* repeat around. (30 sts)
Round 6: *Sc 4, inc* repeat around. (36 sts)
Rounds 7–14: Sc in each st around. (36 sts)
Round 15: *Sc 4, dec* repeat around. (30 sts)
Round 16: *Sc 3, dec* repeat around. (24 sts)
Round 17: Sc in each st around. (24 sts)
Round 18: *Sc 2, dec* repeat around. (18 sts)

Begin stuffing the body firmly before closing.

Round 19: *Sc 1, dec* repeat around. (12 sts)
Round 20: Dec around. (6 sts)

Fasten off and close the same way as the head. Leave a long tail before fastening off — you’ll use it to attach the head to the body.

Arms (Make 2)

Round 1: MR, 6 sc into ring. (6 sts)
Round 2: Inc in each st around. (12 sts)
Round 3: *Sc 1, inc* repeat around. (18 sts)
Rounds 4–5: Sc in each st around. (18 sts)
Round 6: *Sc 4, dec* repeat around. (15 sts)
Rounds 7–14: Sc in each st around. (15 sts)

Stuff the arm lightly — you want it to have a little body but still be flexible and squishy. Fasten off, leaving a long tail. Flatten the top of the arm and sew it closed, then attach each arm to the sides of the body at about round 15, with the rounded paw end pointing slightly forward.

Legs (Make 2)

Round 1: MR, 6 sc into ring. (6 sts)
Round 2: Inc in each st around. (12 sts)
Round 3: *Sc 1, inc* repeat around. (18 sts)
Round 4: Sc in BLO around. (18 sts) — this creates a ridge that defines the bottom of the paw.
Rounds 5–7: Sc in each st around. (18 sts)
Round 8: *Sc 4, dec* repeat around. (15 sts)
Rounds 9–18: Sc in each st around. (15 sts)

Stuff each leg firmly so it holds its shape. Fasten off, leaving a long tail. Flatten the top of the leg and sew it closed (the seam should run front to back so the paw faces forward). Attach the legs to the bottom of the body, positioned so the bear can sit upright with its legs extending forward.

Assembling Your Bear

Assembly is where the magic happens and where patience pays off. Take your time with this step — good assembly makes the difference between a bear that looks handmade in the best possible way and one that looks slightly off.

Start by pinning all pieces in place before you sew anything. Use straight pins or locking stitch markers to test the positioning of the head, arms, and legs. Step back and look at your bear from different angles. Adjust the placement of the ears, the angle of the arms, and the position of the legs until you’re happy with how it looks.

When you sew the head onto the body, use the yarn tail from the body’s closing round and a fresh length of yarn to work through both the head and body with your yarn needle, going around the entire join at least twice for security. A bear’s head takes a lot of love (read: being grabbed and swung around by small children), so make it sturdy.

Use the ladder stitch technique when sewing pieces together — this creates an almost invisible seam. Insert your needle into the body, come up a stitch or two away, then insert into the edge of the piece you’re attaching, come up again, and alternate back and forth. When you pull the yarn gently, the two pieces draw together seamlessly.

Finishing Touches

Once all pieces are assembled, there are a few final touches that elevate your bear from cute to absolutely stunning.

Embroider the face carefully — use black embroidery floss and a thin needle for precise work. A classic teddy bear nose is a small filled oval or triangle sitting at the top center of the snout, with a simple inverted Y below it for the mouth. You can make the expression slightly different by placing the mouth’s lower arms at different angles — a wider V gives a cheerful look, a more subtle curve gives a gentle, sleepy expression.

If you want to add extra plush texture to your finished bear, use a pet slicker brush or a stiff-bristled toothbrush to gently brush the surface of the chenille yarn after assembly. This raises the pile slightly and gives the bear an even softer, fluffier appearance — almost like a real plush toy.

Weave in all ends very securely. Chenille yarn can be slippery, so weave each end in at least two directions and consider adding a small knot at the base before weaving.

Tips for Making This Pattern Your Own

One of the best things about a basic amigurumi bear pattern is how easily it becomes a canvas for creativity. Here are a few ideas for variations:

Color combinations: Try a two-tone bear with a lighter snout, inner ears, and paw pads. Use contrast yarn just for those pieces and it completely transforms the look.

Size variations: Work the same pattern with a lighter weight chenille (size 3 or 4) and a smaller hook for a miniature bear. Scale up with an even chunkier chenille for an oversized, cuddly version.

Accessories: A tiny crocheted bow tied around the neck or ear, a small crocheted scarf in a contrasting color, or even a little crown made from a simple chain loop can make your bear feel completely unique.

Personalization: Embroider a small initial on the bear’s chest in a coordinating color for a truly personalized gift.

Baby-safe version: Skip the safety eyes entirely, embroider all facial features with yarn, and use polyester fiberfill certified safe for children’s toys. This makes the bear appropriate for babies and very young children.

Caring for Your Chenille Crochet Bear

Because this bear is made with chenille yarn, care instructions matter. Most chenille acrylic yarns are machine washable on a gentle or delicate cycle in cold water, but always check the specific yarn’s label before washing. Lay the bear flat to dry rather than putting it in the dryer — the heat can flatten the pile and cause the chenille to lose its softness. If the pile flattens over time from use and washing, a gentle brush with a slicker brush will revive it.

A Project Worth Every Stitch

This plush teddy bear crochet pattern is the kind of project you’ll come back to again and again. Once you’ve made one, you’ll find yourself reaching for that chenille yarn to make them in every color, for every person you love, for every baby shower and birthday and “just because” moment that calls for something handmade and heartfelt.

There’s something genuinely special about giving someone a toy you made with your own hands. It’s not just a stuffed animal — it’s hours of care stitched into something soft and lasting. And when you make it with chenille yarn, the result is so smooth, so velvety, so undeniably snuggly that people can hardly believe it came from a crochet hook.

So pull out your hook, cut your first length of chenille yarn, and make that magic ring. Your bear is waiting