Free Lion Amigurumi Pattern with Video Tutorial: Crochet Your Own Adorable Lion Step by Step
If you have been searching for a free lion amigurumi pattern that is beginner-friendly, detailed, and comes with a video tutorial to guide you every step of the way, you have landed in exactly the right place. Amigurumi — the Japanese art of crocheting small stuffed animals and characters — has taken the crafting world by storm, and the lion is one of the most beloved designs you can make. With its fluffy mane, expressive eyes, and cuddly body, a crocheted lion makes the perfect gift for children and adults alike, or a wonderful addition to your own collection.
In this post, you will find everything you need to complete your lion from start to finish: a full written pattern, tips on materials and tools, guidance on reading amigurumi patterns, notes on safety for children, and a video tutorial walkthrough to help you follow along visually. Whether you are picking up a crochet hook for the first time or you have been crocheting for years and want a satisfying weekend project, this pattern is written with you in mind.
Let’s get started.
What Is Amigurumi and Why Make a Lion?
Amigurumi (編みぐるみ) literally translates to “knitted stuffed toy” in Japanese, though the craft most commonly uses crochet rather than knitting. The style is characterized by disproportionately large heads, small bodies, and tiny expressive limbs that give the finished toy its unmistakable charm. Amigurumi projects are typically worked in continuous rounds rather than rows, which creates a seamless, tidy fabric perfect for stuffed toys.
The lion is a particularly satisfying amigurumi subject because it combines several fun techniques: basic body shaping, ear placement, limb attachment, and the always-rewarding mane. That mane — whether you make it with loops, fringe, or a simple textured round — is the feature that transforms a round crocheted ball into something unmistakably regal. The finished lion can sit proudly on a shelf, serve as a soft toy for a toddler, or become a thoughtful handmade gift for any occasion.
Materials and Tools You Will Need
Before you begin, gather everything listed below so you can work through the pattern without interruption.
Yarn: You will need a worsted weight yarn (Category 4) in two colors — a golden yellow or tan for the body, and a darker brown or caramel for the mane. You can also add a small amount of cream or white yarn for the muzzle. Approximately 150–200 yards of your main color and 50–75 yards of your mane color should be more than enough for a finished lion that measures about 6–7 inches tall.
Hook: A 3.5mm (E) or 4mm (G) crochet hook works well with worsted weight yarn for amigurumi. Using a slightly smaller hook than the yarn label recommends helps create a tighter fabric that will hold your stuffing in without gaps showing through.
Polyfill stuffing: Standard polyester fiberfill is ideal. Use enough to give your lion a firm, rounded shape without overstuffing, which can distort the crocheted fabric.
Safety eyes: Two 12mm black safety eyes are recommended for a finished toy intended for adults or older children (6 and up). If you are making this lion for a baby or toddler under 3 years old, embroider the eyes with black yarn instead, as safety eyes — despite the name — can pose a choking hazard for very young children.
Yarn needle: A blunt tapestry or yarn needle for sewing pieces together and weaving in ends.
Stitch markers: Helpful for marking the beginning of each round, especially as the stitch count increases.
Scissors: For cutting yarn and trimming the mane.
Understanding the Pattern: Key Abbreviations and Stitches
This pattern is written using standard US crochet terminology. Here is a quick reference guide for the abbreviations used throughout.
MR — Magic ring (also called magic circle). This is how most amigurumi pieces begin, creating a tight, adjustable center with no hole.
ch — Chain
sl st — Slip stitch
sc — Single crochet
inc — Increase (2 single crochets worked into the same stitch)
dec — Decrease (invisible decrease: insert hook into the front loop only of the next two stitches and single crochet them together)
BLO — Back loop only
FLO — Front loop only
st(s) — Stitch(es)
Rnd — Round
( ) × — Work the instructions inside the parentheses the specified number of times
Important Notes Before You Begin
Amigurumi is almost always worked in continuous rounds — meaning you do not join at the end of each round with a slip stitch the way you might in other crochet projects. Instead, you work in a continuous spiral. Using a stitch marker at the first stitch of each round will save you from losing count.
The invisible decrease is strongly recommended over the standard sc2tog (single crochet two together) because it creates a much neater finish on the outside of your work. To do an invisible decrease, insert your hook through the front loop only of the next stitch, then through the front loop only of the following stitch, yarn over and pull through both loops, yarn over and pull through the remaining two loops on your hook.
At the end of this post you will find a link to the video tutorial, which demonstrates all of the key techniques including the magic ring, invisible decrease, mane attachment, and assembly.
Free Lion Amigurumi Pattern
Part One: The Head
Start with your main color (golden yellow or tan).
Rnd 1: MR, 6 sc into the ring. (6 sts)
Rnd 2: Inc in each st around. (12 sts)
Rnd 3: (sc 1, inc) × 6. (18 sts)
Rnd 4: (sc 2, inc) × 6. (24 sts)
Rnd 5: (sc 3, inc) × 6. (30 sts)
Rnd 6: (sc 4, inc) × 6. (36 sts)
Rnd 7: (sc 5, inc) × 6. (42 sts)
Rnd 8: (sc 6, inc) × 6. (48 sts)
Rnds 9–16: sc in each st around. (48 sts — 8 rounds even)
Rnd 17: (sc 6, dec) × 6. (42 sts)
Rnd 18: (sc 5, dec) × 6. (36 sts)
At this point, attach your safety eyes between rounds 12 and 13, spacing them about 10–12 stitches apart. If you are embroidering eyes instead, you will add those after the head is complete and stuffed.
Rnd 19: (sc 4, dec) × 6. (30 sts)
Rnd 20: (sc 3, dec) × 6. (24 sts)
Begin stuffing the head firmly with polyfill. Continue stuffing as you close.
Rnd 21: (sc 2, dec) × 6. (18 sts)
Rnd 22: (sc 1, dec) × 6. (12 sts)
Rnd 23: dec × 6. (6 sts)
Fasten off, leaving a long tail. Use your yarn needle to close the remaining hole by threading through the front loops of all 6 remaining stitches and pulling tight. Weave in the end.
Part Two: The Muzzle
Using cream or white yarn (or your main color if you prefer).
Rnd 1: MR, 6 sc. (6 sts)
Rnd 2: Inc in each st around. (12 sts)
Rnd 3: (sc 1, inc) × 6. (18 sts)
Rnds 4–5: sc in each st around. (18 sts)
Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Do not stuff the muzzle. Flatten it slightly and sew it to the front of the head, centered below the eyes. Use a small amount of polyfill to give it just a bit of dimension if you like. Embroider a small nose on top using brown or black yarn, and add a simple mouth line beneath.
Part Three: The Body
Using your main color.
Rnd 1: MR, 6 sc. (6 sts)
Rnd 2: Inc in each st around. (12 sts)
Rnd 3: (sc 1, inc) × 6. (18 sts)
Rnd 4: (sc 2, inc) × 6. (24 sts)
Rnd 5: (sc 3, inc) × 6. (30 sts)
Rnd 6: (sc 4, inc) × 6. (36 sts)
Rnds 7–16: sc in each st around. (36 sts — 10 rounds even)
Rnd 17: (sc 4, dec) × 6. (30 sts)
Rnd 18: (sc 3, dec) × 6. (24 sts)
Begin stuffing the body.
Rnd 19: (sc 2, dec) × 6. (18 sts)
Rnd 20: (sc 1, dec) × 6. (12 sts)
Stuff firmly. Do not close the body yet — you will attach it to the head after completing the limbs.
Part Four: The Arms (Make Two)
Using your main color.
Rnd 1: MR, 6 sc. (6 sts)
Rnd 2: Inc in each st around. (12 sts)
Rnds 3–10: sc in each st around. (12 sts — 8 rounds even)
Fasten off, leaving a long tail. Stuff lightly — arms can be left a little flat if you prefer a softer, floppy look. Sew the open end closed by flattening and working a row of single crochets or by whipstitching. Set aside.
Part Five: The Legs (Make Two)
Using your main color.
Rnd 1: MR, 6 sc. (6 sts)
Rnd 2: Inc in each st around. (12 sts)
Rnd 3: (sc 1, inc) × 6. (18 sts)
Rnds 4–6: sc in each st around. (18 sts — 3 rounds even)
Rnd 7: (sc 1, dec) × 6. (12 sts)
Rnds 8–13: sc in each st around. (12 sts — 6 rounds even)
Stuff lightly and fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing.
Part Six: The Ears (Make Two)
Using your main color.
Rnd 1: MR, 6 sc. (6 sts)
Rnd 2: Inc in each st around. (12 sts)
Rnd 3: sc in each st around. (12 sts)
Fasten off, leaving a long tail. Do not stuff. Flatten and sew to the top of the head, one on each side, spaced evenly. The ears sit naturally closer to the sides of the head than the very top.
Part Seven: The Tail
Using your main color.
Rnd 1: MR, 4 sc. (4 sts)
Rnds 2–12: sc in each st around. (4 sts — 11 rounds even)
Fasten off, leaving a long tail. At the very tip of the tail, cut a small bundle of your mane color yarn, fold it in half, and pull it through the end of the tail with your hook to create a little tuft. Trim neatly.
Assembly
Now comes the satisfying part — putting your lion together.
First, finish closing the body by sewing it directly to the head. Place the head on top of the body, making sure the face points forward, and use your yarn needle and a length of yarn to stitch all the way around the join. Take your time here — a neat seam makes a huge difference in the finished look.
Next, sew the legs to the bottom sides of the body. Position them so the lion can sit in a stable, slightly spread position. Pin them in place before sewing if it helps you check the balance.
Sew the arms to either side of the body, just below where the head meets the body. They should angle slightly downward and forward.
Attach the tail to the back of the body at the bottom, weaving in the end securely.
Finally, sew the ears onto the top of the head if you have not already done so.
Making the Mane
The mane is the most distinctive feature of your lion, and there are several ways to create it. Here are two popular approaches.
Loop mane: Using your mane color yarn and working in the rounds surrounding the face (roughly rounds 8–16 of the head), use your hook to pull loops of yarn through each stitch around the outer edge of the face. Each loop should be about 1.5–2 inches long. Once all loops are pulled through, you can leave them loopy for a curly effect, or cut each loop and fluff the strands with your fingers for a fuller, shaggier look. A light brushing with a pet slicker brush will give you a beautifully fluffy mane.
Fringe mane: Cut lengths of mane color yarn about 4–5 inches long. Fold each length in half and pull the folded end through a stitch around the face frame using your hook, then pull the cut ends through the loop and tighten. This is the same technique used to add fringe to scarves. Work this fringe stitch into every stitch around the face frame, then trim to a uniform length and fluff as needed.
Both methods work beautifully, and the video tutorial demonstrates both so you can decide which you prefer before committing.
Video Tutorial Walkthrough
To help you follow this pattern more easily, a full video tutorial is available on YouTube that walks through each section of the lion pattern in real time. The video covers how to start a magic ring cleanly, how to work the invisible decrease, how to attach safety eyes securely, how to sew pieces together for a neat finish, and how to create and style both the loop mane and the fringe mane.
Watching the video alongside the written pattern is the best way to approach this project if you are newer to amigurumi, since seeing how the fabric should look at each stage helps you catch any mistakes early. Even experienced crocheters often find video tutorials helpful when trying a new technique, like the loop mane.
You can find the video tutorial by searching “Free Lion Amigurumi Pattern Video Tutorial” on YouTube, or by checking the pinned links on this blog’s social media pages.
Tips for a Beautiful Finished Lion
A few extra notes that will make a real difference in the quality of your finished toy.
Tension matters a great deal in amigurumi. If your stitches are too loose, the stuffing will show through and the shape will look less defined. If you find this happening, try going down a hook size.
When stuffing, add the filling gradually and test the shape as you go. You want the finished pieces to feel firm and hold their shape, but not so packed that the fabric pulls and distorts.
Use the same dye lot for all of your main color yarn. Even subtle dye lot differences can be noticeable on a finished toy, especially in good lighting.
Block your finished lion by lightly misting it with water and shaping it with your hands, then letting it dry flat. This relaxes the yarn and evens out any uneven stitches, giving the whole toy a polished, professional look.
If you are making this lion as a gift for a child under 3, embroider all features rather than using any attached embellishments. Use yarn that is securely knotted and woven in multiple times so nothing can come loose.
Variations and Customization Ideas
One of the best things about making your own amigurumi is that no two lions ever look exactly alike, and you have full creative control over colors and finishing details.
Try a white or cream lion for a more unusual look, or use a gradient yarn that shifts from gold to orange for a sunset effect. Make the mane shorter and tidier for a juvenile lion cub, or big and dramatic for a full-grown king of the savanna. Add
