Free Crochet Treasure Chest Storage Basket Pattern – 3 Video Tutorials Included

If you’ve been looking for a crochet project that’s equal parts functional and absolutely charming, you’ve landed in the right place. This free crochet treasure chest storage basket pattern is one of those projects that looks impressive but is completely achievable for anyone who’s comfortable with basic crochet stitches. Whether you’re crocheting for a child’s bedroom, a playroom, a nursery, or just want a whimsical way to corral all the little odds and ends around your home, this treasure chest basket is going to become one of your favorite makes.

I’m sharing everything you need here — the full written pattern, materials list, stitch counts, and three helpful video tutorials to walk you through the trickiest parts. Bookmark this page and come back to it whenever you need a reference, because this is your one-stop shop for this pattern.

Why You’ll Love This Pattern

Before we dive into the stitches, let me tell you why this particular project has become such a hit in the crafting community.

First, it’s genuinely useful. Unlike some decorative crochet pieces that sit on a shelf and look pretty but don’t do much, this treasure chest basket actually holds things. Small toys, stuffed animals, yarn stash, art supplies, baby accessories — it can handle all of it. The structured shape keeps it upright and open, so it’s easy to toss things in and pull them back out.

Second, it’s sized just right. The finished basket measures approximately 12 inches wide, 8 inches deep, and 8 inches tall (with the lid open). It’s substantial enough to be useful but not so enormous that it feels overwhelming to make.

Third, and most importantly for little ones — it looks like an actual treasure chest. Kids absolutely love it. There’s something about that rounded lid and chunky shape that sparks the imagination, and it makes tidying up feel like an adventure rather than a chore.

Finally, this is a free pattern. No strings attached. Read it here, watch the video tutorials, and make as many treasure chests as you like. You can even sell items you make from this pattern — just please don’t copy and sell the pattern itself.

Materials You’ll Need

Getting your materials together before you start will make the whole process smoother. Here’s what you’ll need to gather:

Yarn: Approximately 400–500 yards of bulky weight yarn (size 5 or 6) for the main body. You’ll also want a small amount of a contrasting color for any decorative details like a clasp or trim. A sturdy cotton or cotton-blend yarn works beautifully here because it gives the basket structure, but an acrylic will also work well and tends to be more budget-friendly. Avoid anything too stretchy or soft — you want the finished piece to hold its shape.

Hook: A 6.0mm or 6.5mm crochet hook. If your stitches tend to run tight, go up half a size. The exact hook size matters less than your gauge, so don’t be afraid to swatch.

Notions: A yarn needle for weaving in ends, scissors, and stitch markers to keep track of your rounds. If you want the basket to be extra firm, you can purchase a plastic canvas or foam insert to place in the bottom — this is optional but really does make a difference in how structured the final piece looks.

For the hinge detail: A small length of leather cord or thick twine to thread through the back of the basket where the lid meets the body. This creates a simple hinge effect that keeps the lid attached and allows it to open and close. It’s a clever little detail that makes the whole thing look so much more polished.

Gauge

18 stitches and 20 rows = 4 inches in single crochet using a 6.0mm hook and bulky weight yarn.

Gauge matters more for this project than it might for a garment, because you want the basket to be stiff and structured. If your swatch is coming out too loose and floppy, try a smaller hook or switch to a yarn with less give. If it’s too stiff and difficult to work with, go up a size.

Pattern Notes

This pattern is worked in continuous rounds for the base and body of the basket. The lid is worked in rows and then seamed. All rounds are worked in the back loop only unless otherwise stated — this is what gives the basket its clean, ribbed look and also adds to its structural integrity.

When the pattern says “join and turn,” you’re completing a round with a slip stitch to the first stitch, chaining one or two as instructed, and turning your work. This only happens at certain transition points, so pay attention to those notes.

Abbreviations used in this pattern follow US crochet terminology. If you’re used to UK terms, note that a US single crochet is the equivalent of a UK double crochet, and so on.

Abbreviations:
ch = chain, sc = single crochet, dc = double crochet, hdc = half double crochet, sl st = slip stitch, blo = back loop only, flo = front loop only, inc = increase (2 sc in same stitch), dec = invisible decrease, rnd = round, rep = repeat, st = stitch, sp = space.

Video Tutorial 1: Crocheting the Base and Body

Before you read through the full written pattern, I highly recommend watching Video Tutorial 1. It covers the foundation of the basket — the oval base and the first several rounds of the body — and seeing these steps in real time will help you understand how the shape comes together. Pay special attention to how the oval base is started, because this is where a lot of beginners run into confusion. An oval base is different from a flat circle, and getting those initial chain and increases right will make everything else fall into place.

The video also demonstrates how to maintain consistent tension as you work in the round and how to use your stitch markers effectively so you never lose your place. Once you’ve watched through to the end of the body section, come back here and follow along with the written instructions.

The Pattern: Basket Body

Oval Base:

Ch 16. Starting in the second chain from the hook:

Rnd 1: sc in next 14 ch, 3 sc in last ch, working on the opposite side of the foundation chain, sc in next 13 ch, 2 sc in last ch, do not join, place stitch marker to indicate beginning of round. (32 sts)

Rnd 2: 2 sc in first st, sc in next 13 sts, 2 sc in each of next 3 sts, sc in next 13 sts, 2 sc in each of last 2 sts. (38 sts)

Rnd 3: sc in next st, 2 sc in next st, sc in next 13 sts, (sc in next st, 2 sc in next st) 3 times, sc in next 13 sts, sc in next st, 2 sc in last st. (44 sts)

Rnd 4: sc in next 2 sts, 2 sc in next st, sc in next 13 sts, (sc in next 2 sts, 2 sc in next st) 3 times, sc in next 13 sts, sc in next 2 sts, 2 sc in last st. (50 sts)

Rnd 5: sc in next 3 sts, 2 sc in next st, sc in next 13 sts, (sc in next 3 sts, 2 sc in next st) 3 times, sc in next 13 sts, sc in next 3 sts, 2 sc in last st. (56 sts)

Body:

Rnd 6: Working in blo only for this round (this creates the “floor” edge of the basket), sc in each st around. (56 sts)

Rnds 7–22: sc in blo of each st around. (56 sts)

After Rnd 22, join with a sl st to the first stitch and fasten off. Leave a long tail for seaming if needed. Your basket body is complete.

Video Tutorial 2: Crocheting the Lid

The lid is the part of this project that really makes it look like a treasure chest. It has that beautiful rounded, dome-like top that people associate with old-fashioned chests, and achieving that shape is actually simpler than it looks. Video Tutorial 2 walks you through the entire lid construction, including how to work the increases that create the curve and how to seam the side panels cleanly.

Watch the section on shaping the rounded top a couple of times before you attempt it — once you see the logic of where the increases are placed, the whole thing clicks immediately. The video also covers how to create a clean, flat edge along the bottom of the lid so that it sits properly on top of the basket body.

The Pattern: Lid

The lid is worked in rows. Ch 50.

Row 1 (RS): sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across. Ch 1, turn. (49 sts)

Rows 2–6: sc in each st across. Ch 1, turn. (49 sts)

Row 7 (begin shaping): 2 sc in first st, sc in each st across to last st, 2 sc in last st. Ch 1, turn. (51 sts)

Row 8: sc in each st across. Ch 1, turn.

Row 9: 2 sc in first st, sc across to last st, 2 sc in last st. Ch 1, turn. (53 sts)

Row 10: sc in each st across. Ch 1, turn.

Row 11: 2 sc in first st, sc across to last st, 2 sc in last st. Ch 1, turn. (55 sts)

Rows 12–16: sc in each st across. Ch 1, turn. (55 sts)

Row 17 (begin decreasing): dec over first 2 sts, sc across to last 2 sts, dec over last 2 sts. Ch 1, turn. (53 sts)

Row 18: sc in each st across. Ch 1, turn.

Row 19: dec over first 2 sts, sc across to last 2 sts, dec over last 2 sts. Ch 1, turn. (51 sts)

Row 20: sc in each st across. Ch 1, turn.

Row 21: dec over first 2 sts, sc across to last 2 sts, dec over last 2 sts. Ch 1, turn. (49 sts)

Rows 22–26: sc in each st across. Ch 1, turn. (49 sts)

Fasten off, leaving a long tail for seaming.

Fold the lid panel in half so the shorter ends meet. Seam the side edges together using whip stitch or mattress stitch, leaving the bottom edge open. This open edge is where the lid will attach to the basket body.

Attaching the Lid: The Hinge Detail

This is where the magic happens. Once your lid is seamed and shaped, you’ll attach it to the back edge of the basket body using a simple hinge made from leather cord or thick twine.

Thread your cord through the back loops along the bottom edge of the lid and then through the top edge of the back wall of the basket body, creating a loose but secure connection. Make sure the cord is long enough to allow the lid to open fully and lay back without straining. Tie secure knots on each end and trim any excess.

This hinge method is wonderfully low-tech, extremely durable, and gives the basket a rustic, handcrafted look that feels very intentional. Children can open and close it freely without worrying about breaking a hinge mechanism.

Video Tutorial 3: Assembly, Finishing, and Decorative Details

Video Tutorial 3 is all about bringing everything together. It covers attaching the lid, working the decorative clasp detail on the front of the basket, and adding any optional embellishments like a lock shape, studs, or a braided handle on the front.

The clasp is made from a small rectangle of sc worked in a contrasting color and then sewn onto the front of the basket. It’s purely decorative but it’s the detail that makes the whole piece read unmistakably as a treasure chest. The video shows a couple of different approaches to this clasp, from a simple flat rectangle to a slightly dimensional piece that really pops off the surface.

The tutorial also shows how to weave in your ends invisibly so the inside of the basket looks as tidy as the outside, and how to block the finished piece if needed to help it hold its shape.

Decorative Clasp Pattern

Using your contrasting color yarn and a slightly smaller hook (5.0mm works well here):

Ch 9.

Row 1: sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across. Ch 1, turn. (8 sts)

Rows 2–6: sc in each st across. Ch 1, turn.

Row 7: sl st in first st, sc in next 6 sts, sl st in last st. Fasten off.

Sew this rectangle to the center front of the basket, about 1 inch down from the top edge. Use a few stitches of your main color to create a simple “lock” shape below it if desired — just a small vertical stitch with a loop at the bottom does the trick beautifully.

Tips for a Perfect Finish

A few things will make a big difference in how your finished basket looks and performs.

Working tightly is key. This pattern benefits from stitches that are firm and close together rather than loose and airy. If you find your basket is soft and collapsing on itself, don’t hesitate to rip back and try a smaller hook. A basket that holds its shape is worth the extra effort.

Block if needed. If you’re using cotton yarn, a light steam block after finishing will help the basket sit flat and the lid to curve evenly. Acrylic yarns don’t respond to steam the same way, but you can still do a wet block by dampening the piece and pinning it into shape while it dries.

Add a base insert. A piece of plastic canvas cut to fit the oval base and slipped inside before you start loading the basket with toys or yarn will give it a firmness that stays even when the basket is full and heavy.

Use stitch markers liberally. Especially on the oval base, markers at the corners of the oval will keep your increases in the right place and prevent the base from spiraling or warping.

Sizing Variations

Once you understand the structure of this pattern, it’s easy to scale up or down. For a mini treasure chest — perfect for jewelry, tiny keepsakes, or as a gift box — work the same pattern with a lighter weight yarn and a corresponding smaller hook. A size 3 cotton yarn with a 3.5mm hook will give you a basket roughly half the finished size of the original.

For a jumbo version that could hold a full stash of yarn or a pile of children’s books, try a super bulky yarn (size 6 or even 7) with a 9mm or 10mm hook. You may need to add a few extra increase rounds to the base and extend the body height by several additional rounds, but the structure of the pattern remains the same.

Gifting and Selling

This treasure chest basket makes an incredible gift. Fill it with small toys or candy for a child’s birthday. Use it as a gift basket and let the basket itself become part of the present. Make a set of them in different colors for a nursery — one for diapers, one for wipes, one for hair accessories — and label them with embroidered initials or fabric tags.

If you’d like to sell items made from this free pattern, you’re welcome to do so. Please link back to this post if you share photos or list the items online, and describe the items as “handmade from a free pattern.” I love seeing what people make, so tag your photos and share them — there’s nothing more motivating than seeing a pattern brought to life in different colors and yarns.

Final Thoughts

There’s something genuinely delightful about finishing a project like this and seeing it come together from a simple chain into an actual treasure chest. It’s the kind of make that people notice and ask about, and it’s even more satisfying to say “I made that.” Whether you’re a seasoned crocheter looking for a fun weekend project or a relative beginner ready to try your first three-dimensional piece, this treasure chest storage basket is worth every stitch.

Work through the three video tutorials in order, keep this written pattern open alongside them, and don’t be afraid to pause, rewind, and rework anything that doesn’t feel right. Crochet is forgiving, and even a basket that takes a couple of tries to get right is going to become something you’re proud of.

Happy crocheting, and may your treasure chest always be full.