How to Make a Quick Herringbone Knitted Blanket

There is something deeply satisfying about finishing a knitted blanket. It takes patience, yes, but when you finally pull it off the needles and spread it across your couch, you feel that particular kind of pride that only handmade things can give you. The herringbone stitch is one of my absolute favorites for blankets because it creates this gorgeous, textured zigzag pattern that looks incredibly intricate but is actually surprisingly manageable once you get into the rhythm of it. If you have been wanting to try something beyond basic stockinette but are not quite ready to tackle a full lace project, the herringbone stitch is the perfect next step.

This guide will walk you through everything you need to know to make a cozy, beautiful herringbone knitted blanket from start to finish. I will cover materials, gauge, the stitch pattern itself, how to keep your edges tidy, and all the little tips I have picked up along the way. Whether you are a confident beginner or an intermediate knitter looking for a satisfying project, this blanket is for you.

What Is the Herringbone Stitch in Knitting?

Before we dive into the how-to, let me explain what makes the herringbone stitch so special. The herringbone pattern gets its name from the skeleton of a herring fish, where the bones fan out from the spine in alternating diagonal lines. In knitting, this translates to a series of slipped and worked stitches that create interlocking diagonal columns of texture across your fabric.

Unlike woven herringbone, knitted herringbone is created by working two stitches together but only slipping one stitch off the needle at a time. This simple trick creates the distinctive interlocked look that gives the stitch its name. The resulting fabric has a beautiful loft and body to it, making it ideal for blankets and throws. It is slightly denser than standard stockinette, which means your blanket will feel substantial and warm without being stiff or heavy.

One thing to know going in: the herringbone stitch uses slightly more yarn than a basic stitch pattern. Keep this in mind when buying yarn and always err on the side of buying an extra skein. Running out of yarn mid-blanket is one of knitting’s cruelest surprises.

Materials You Will Need

Getting the right materials before you start will make the whole process smoother and more enjoyable. Here is what you need for a throw-sized herringbone blanket, roughly 40 by 54 inches when finished.

Yarn: You will need approximately 1,200 to 1,400 yards of bulky or super bulky yarn (weight 5 or 6). Look for a yarn that has good stitch definition so the herringbone pattern shows up clearly. Wool blends, acrylic blends, and cotton-acrylic blends all work beautifully. I personally love using a soft merino blend for this project because the finished blanket is both lovely to look at and cozy to snuggle under. If you want to make the project go even faster, you can hold two strands of worsted weight yarn together, which gives you a similar gauge to a bulky yarn and opens up a world of color combination possibilities.

Needles: You will need a 10mm (US size 15) circular knitting needle, at least 32 inches long. Even though this is a flat project knitted back and forth, circular needles give you the flexibility to hold a large number of stitches without straining, which matters a lot when you have a full blanket width on your needle. If you prefer straight needles and have extra-long ones, those will work too.

Other tools: A tapestry needle for weaving in ends, stitch markers to mark the edges if you like, scissors, and a tape measure. A row counter app on your phone or a physical row counter is helpful for keeping track of where you are in the pattern repeat.

Understanding Gauge

Gauge is your best friend in knitting, even when it feels like a nuisance. For this blanket, you are aiming for roughly 10 to 11 stitches and 14 to 15 rows over a 4-inch square in the herringbone stitch. However, because blankets do not need to fit a body precisely the way a sweater does, gauge is a little more forgiving here. The more important thing is that your finished fabric feels right: not too stiff, not too loose.

Knit a small gauge swatch before you begin. Cast on about 20 stitches and work the herringbone pattern for at least 4 inches. Wash and block the swatch the same way you plan to treat the finished blanket. Measure your swatch after blocking and compare it to the gauge above. If you have more stitches per inch than expected, go up a needle size. If you have fewer, go down a needle size. This small step at the start can save you a lot of frustration later.

How to Cast On

For a throw-sized blanket, cast on 100 stitches. If you want a narrower lap blanket, 80 stitches works well. For a wider bed-sized blanket, try 140 stitches. The herringbone stitch works over any even number of stitches, so as long as your cast-on number is even, you can customize the width freely.

Use a long-tail cast on for a neat, elastic edge. It creates a firm foundation row that holds up well over time and looks tidy when you fold the blanket over a couch arm. If you are not familiar with the long-tail cast on, a quick video tutorial will have you mastering it in just a few minutes.

The Herringbone Stitch Pattern Explained

The herringbone stitch in knitting uses a technique called “knitting two stitches together but only dropping one.” Here is a breakdown of what that means in practice, written out row by row.

Key abbreviations:
K2tog-but-slip-1: Insert your right needle into the next two stitches as if to knit them together, knit them together, but only slip the first stitch off the left needle, leaving the second stitch on.

P2tog-but-slip-1: Insert your right needle into the next two stitches as if to purl them together, purl them together, but only slip the first stitch off the left needle, leaving the second stitch on.

Row 1 (Right Side): Slip the first stitch purlwise with yarn in back. K2tog-but-slip-1; repeat from to the last stitch, K1.

Row 2 (Wrong Side): Slip the first stitch purlwise with yarn in front. P2tog-but-slip-1; repeat from to the last stitch, P1.

Repeat these two rows for the entire blanket. That is it. Two rows, repeated over and over, create the full herringbone pattern. Once you work the first ten rows or so, your hands will find the rhythm and it will feel natural and even meditative.

A note about tension: try to keep your tension consistent but not too tight. The herringbone stitch has a natural tendency to pull slightly because you are working two stitches together repeatedly. If you find your fabric is pulling in or feeling stiff, consciously loosen your grip a little as you work. Taking breaks and stretching your hands is also a good idea during a bigger project like a blanket.

Tips for Keeping Your Edges Tidy

The slipped first stitch in each row is your secret weapon for beautiful edges. Slipping the first stitch instead of knitting or purling it creates a neat chain of loops along both side edges of your blanket, which makes seaming easier and gives the finished piece a polished look. Make sure to always slip this first stitch purlwise (insert the needle as if to purl, move the yarn to the correct side, then slide the stitch over without working it).

Some knitters also like to add a simple garter stitch border on all four sides to prevent the blanket from rolling. If you want to do this, here is a simple approach:

Cast on 106 stitches instead of 100. Knit 6 rows in plain garter stitch (knit every row) before beginning the herringbone pattern. On every subsequent row, knit the first 3 stitches and the last 3 stitches in garter, working the herringbone pattern only over the middle 100 stitches. When the blanket reaches your desired length, end with 6 rows of garter stitch before binding off.

This border adds a little time to the project but gives the blanket a really finished, intentional look. Whether you add it or not is purely a matter of personal preference.

Adding Color or Stripes

One of the easiest ways to personalize your herringbone blanket is to work it in stripes. Because the herringbone pattern has such strong diagonal movement built in, stripes interact with it beautifully, sometimes emphasizing the herringbone direction, sometimes creating interesting optical effects.

For a simple stripe sequence, try working 20 rows in your main color, then switching to a contrast color for 10 rows, then back to the main color. This creates a bold, graphic look. For something more subtle, try a tonal palette with three shades of the same hue, switching every 30 rows.

When you change colors, cut the old yarn leaving a 6-inch tail and join the new yarn at the beginning of a right-side row. Weave in your ends carefully along the side edge or through the backs of the stitches so they do not peek through to the right side. A tapestry needle with a blunt tip makes this much easier.

How Long Will This Take?

One of the things I love about this pattern is that it is genuinely quick for a blanket project. Working with bulky yarn on large needles means you cover ground fast. Most knitters with moderate experience can expect to finish a throw-sized blanket in about two to three weeks of casual evening knitting, or in a concentrated weekend if you are really in the zone.

If you are using super bulky yarn held doubled, the blanket can come together even faster. There is something wonderfully gratifying about watching the rows stack up quickly, especially compared to the patience required by finer gauge projects.

Finishing Your Blanket

When your blanket has reached your desired length, approximately 54 inches for a throw, it is time to bind off. Use a stretchy bind-off method to keep the top edge elastic and consistent with the cast-on edge. A simple option is the standard bind-off worked loosely, but if you tend to bind off tightly, try using a needle one or two sizes larger for just the bind-off row.

After binding off, weave in all your ends securely. Take your time with this step. Ends that are not properly woven in have a way of working themselves loose after washing, which is very frustrating after all the work you have put in.

Blocking is the final and truly transformative step. Blocking means wetting the finished blanket (either by soaking it in cool water or by steam blocking with an iron held just above the fabric) and then laying it flat to dry in the shape you want. For a herringbone blanket, blocking does several things: it evens out any tension inconsistencies, opens up the stitch pattern so the herringbone texture really pops, and sets the final dimensions of the piece.

To block, soak the blanket in cool water for about 20 minutes until fully saturated. Gently squeeze out excess water (do not wring or twist). Lay the blanket flat on a clean surface, towels, or blocking mats. Gently stretch it to the desired dimensions, smoothing out any ripples. Pin the edges if needed, especially if you want very crisp straight edges. Allow it to dry completely, which can take 24 to 48 hours depending on the thickness of your yarn and the humidity in your home.

Once dry, your blanket will look and feel noticeably different. Fuller, softer, more polished. Blocking truly is the secret to professional-looking handknits.

Caring for Your Herringbone Blanket

How you care for your blanket depends on the fiber content of your yarn. Always check the yarn label before washing. Most superwash wool and acrylic blends are machine washable on a gentle cycle in cool water, while non-superwash wool should be hand washed to prevent felting. Lay the blanket flat to dry rather than putting it in the dryer, which can cause some fibers to shrink or felt even when machine washing is listed as acceptable.

Store your blanket folded in a cool, dry place. If your blanket is made from a natural fiber like wool, consider storing it with cedar balls or lavender sachets to discourage moths.

Why I Love This Project for Gift-Giving

A herringbone knitted blanket makes one of the most heartfelt handmade gifts you can give someone. It looks complex and luxurious, so recipients are always genuinely impressed, but the straightforward two-row repeat means you can actually complete one in a reasonable amount of time without sacrificing the rest of your life. I have made these for baby showers, housewarming gifts, holiday gifts, and just-because gifts, and they are always received with the kind of genuine delight that makes the effort feel completely worthwhile.

If you are knitting one as a gift, consider choosing yarn in the recipient’s favorite colors, or pick a classic neutral like cream, oatmeal, dove grey, or natural tan that will work with any home decor. A simple handwritten tag with care instructions is a thoughtful finishing touch.

Final Thoughts

The herringbone knitted blanket is one of those projects that checks every box: it is beautiful, tactile, warm, customizable, and achievable. The two-row repeat is easy enough to memorize after just a few rounds, which means you can knit while watching a film or having a conversation without constantly consulting your notes. And the finished result genuinely looks like something you would find in a boutique home goods store, which is a lovely feeling.

If this is your first time working the herringbone stitch, be patient with yourself during the first ten rows. It feels a little unfamiliar at first because you are not dropping both stitches off the needle the way you normally would. But once it clicks, it really clicks, and you will probably find yourself reaching for this pattern again and again.

Gather your yarn, get your needles ready, and cast on. Your coziest blanket yet is waiting to be made.