How to Sew a DIY Floor Pillow: A Step-by-Step Tutorial

There is something deeply satisfying about sitting on something you made yourself. A floor pillow is one of those projects that looks impressive, feels luxurious, and is genuinely approachable for sewists of almost any skill level. Whether you want extra seating for a movie night, a cozy reading nook addition, or a playful accent for a kids’ room, a large DIY floor pillow checks every box. Best of all, you get to choose exactly the fabric, size, and filling that suits your space.

In this tutorial, I am going to walk you through the entire process from choosing your fabric all the way to fluffing the finished pillow and dropping it in your favorite corner. I will cover the tools you need, how to measure and cut, different closure options, tips for sewing thick fabric, and how to get that perfectly plump, professional-looking result. Grab your fabric and let’s get into it.

Why Make a Floor Pillow Instead of Buying One?

Before we dive into the how-to, let me make the case for the DIY version. Store-bought floor pillows tend to fall into two camps: inexpensive ones that go flat after a few months of use, and high-quality ones with a price tag that makes you wince. When you sew your own, you control the quality of every component. You pick a durable, beautiful fabric. You stuff it as firmly as you like. You choose a closure that holds up over time. And you can coordinate it perfectly with your existing décor because you are not limited to whatever colorways a retailer decided to stock that season.

Floor pillow sewing is also an excellent practice project. Because the pieces are large and the seam allowances are generous, it is forgiving for beginners. At the same time, working with scale and heavier fabrics teaches skills that carry over to furniture upholstery, cushion covers, and other home décor sewing.

What Size Should a Floor Pillow Be?

The most common sizes for floor pillows are 24 inches square, 26 inches square, and 30 inches square. A 24-inch pillow works beautifully as a decorative accent or for small children. A 26-inch pillow is a versatile everyday size that suits most adults for casual seating. A 30-inch pillow is generous and plush, perfect for lounging.

For this tutorial, I will be working with a 26-inch finished square, which is a crowd-pleasing size for most homes. The instructions are easy to scale up or down — simply adjust your measurements accordingly.

Supplies You Will Need

Gather everything before you start cutting so the project moves along without interruption.

Fabric: You will need approximately 1.5 yards of a 54-inch-wide home décor fabric, or 2 yards of a 44-inch-wide quilting cotton if you prefer a lighter look. I strongly recommend a medium-to-heavyweight fabric for floor pillows. Canvas, denim, indoor-outdoor fabric, linen blend, and upholstery fabric all work beautifully. Avoid very stretchy knits or delicate silks, which will not hold up to the stress of regular use.

Filling: You have several good options. A pre-made pillow insert sized to match your finished pillow is the easiest route. For a 26-inch pillow, use a 28-inch insert (always go two inches larger than the finished size for a firm, full look). Alternatively, you can fill the pillow with two to three pounds of polyester fiberfill, shredded memory foam, or a combination of the two. Memory foam shreds give great support and hold their shape longer than fiberfill alone.

Matching thread: Choose a thread that matches your fabric. For heavy-duty fabrics, an all-purpose polyester thread works well. If you are using upholstery weight fabric, consider upholstery thread for the stress seams.

A zipper (optional but recommended): A 22-inch zipper makes it easy to remove the cover for washing and allows you to adjust the filling over time. I will cover both zippered and no-zipper versions below.

Sewing machine: A basic sewing machine handles most floor pillow fabrics just fine. If you are using very thick upholstery fabric, make sure your machine has a denim or heavy-duty needle installed.

Rotary cutter, cutting mat, and quilting ruler or fabric scissors: Accuracy matters when cutting large pieces, and a rotary cutter makes it much easier to get clean, straight edges.

Pins or fabric clips: Clips are easier than pins on thick fabrics because they grip without distorting the layers.

Iron and ironing board: Pressing your seams is non-negotiable if you want a polished result.

Seam ripper: For inevitable corrections.

Chalk or a fabric marker: For marking your fabric before cutting.

Step One: Wash and Press Your Fabric

Before you cut a single piece, wash and dry your fabric if the care label allows it. Home décor and canvas fabrics sometimes have a bit of shrinkage in them, and you want that to happen before you sew, not after. Once the fabric is dry, press it well so you are working with a smooth, flat surface. Wrinkled fabric leads to inaccurate cuts.

Step Two: Cut Your Fabric Pieces

For a 26-inch finished floor pillow, you will cut two 27-inch squares. That extra inch on each side accounts for a half-inch seam allowance on all four edges.

Fold your fabric in half and use your ruler and rotary cutter or scissors to cut both pieces at once, keeping the layers aligned. Double-check that both squares are exactly the same size before moving on. Even a quarter-inch difference will show up in the finished pillow, so take your time here.

If you are using a directional print: Make sure both pieces are cut so that the pattern runs in the same direction when the pillow is assembled. This is easy to overlook when you are excited to get cutting.

If you want to get fancy with a flange or border: Cut your pieces at 29 inches and plan to stitch a decorative border line two inches in from the finished edge after the pillow is assembled. This detail adds a beautiful tailored look with almost no extra effort.

Step Three: Choose Your Closure

There are three popular closure options for floor pillows. Each has its merits.

The invisible zipper closure is the most professional-looking option. The zipper is hidden in one seam and virtually disappears when the pillow is closed. It allows you to remove the cover easily for washing. This is my top recommendation.

The lapped zipper closure is slightly more visible but easier to sew. If you are new to zippers, this is a good starting point.

The envelope closure requires no zipper at all. The back of the pillow is made from two overlapping pieces of fabric, creating a pocket opening. It is the fastest method and works well, though the overlap can sometimes gape open with heavy use. For a floor pillow that will see a lot of action, a zipper is worth the extra ten minutes.

For this tutorial, I will walk through the envelope closure since it is the most beginner-friendly, and then I will explain how to add a zipper if you want to upgrade.

Step Four: Sew the Envelope Back (No-Zipper Version)

If you are making an envelope closure, you will cut your back piece differently. Instead of one 27-inch square, cut two rectangles: each one should measure 27 inches wide by 17 inches tall.

Fold and press a double half-inch hem along one long edge of each rectangle. This hemmed edge will be the overlapping center of the back. Stitch the hem in place on both pieces.

Lay one rectangle face-up on your work surface, hemmed edge toward the center. Lay the second rectangle face-up on top of it, hemmed edge overlapping toward the center in the opposite direction, so together they form a 27-inch square. The two hemmed edges should overlap in the middle by about 7 inches. Baste the overlapping edges together at the top and bottom so the back piece behaves like a single unit when you sew the pillow together.

Step Five: Add a Zipper (Optional Upgrade)

If you are going the zipper route, here is a simple method using a standard zipper foot.

Place your front and back fabric pieces right sides together. Mark the seam where you want the zipper — the bottom edge of the pillow is the most natural location. Sew this seam using a regular stitch for the first two inches from each end, then switch to a long basting stitch for the middle 22 inches. Press the entire seam open.

Center your closed zipper face-down over the pressed-open seam, with the zipper pull about an inch from one end. Pin it in place. Using your zipper foot, stitch around all four sides of the zipper tape, keeping your stitching as close to the zipper teeth as possible without crowding them. Flip the fabric over, and from the front side, use a seam ripper to carefully remove the basting stitches that were holding the seam closed. The zipper will open smoothly.

A 22-inch zipper fits perfectly in a 26-inch seam because you have a little buffer on each end for secure stitching.

Step Six: Pin the Front and Back Together

Place your front piece right side up on your work surface. Place the back piece (or assembled envelope back) right side down on top of it, so the right sides are facing each other. The raw edges should align all the way around.

Pin or clip every few inches around the entire perimeter. Pay special attention to the corners, which tend to shift. If you are using an envelope closure, make sure the opening is facing inward and that your basting stitches are keeping the overlapping panels in place.

Step Seven: Sew the Perimeter

Using a half-inch seam allowance, sew around all four sides of the pillow. Take it slowly at the corners. When you reach each corner, stop with your needle down in the fabric, lift the presser foot, pivot the fabric 90 degrees, lower the foot, and continue.

For extra durability, sew the seam twice, or use a reinforced stitch on your machine. Floor pillows take a beating, and double-stitched seams are worth the extra pass.

If you are making an envelope closure rather than a zippered version, leave a 10-inch opening on one side instead of sewing all the way around. You will use this opening to turn the cover right side out and insert the filling.

Corner tip: For sharp, neat corners on the finished pillow, cut diagonally across each corner seam allowance after sewing, being careful not to cut through your stitching. This removes bulk and allows the corners to lie flat when the pillow is turned right side out.

Step Eight: Turn and Press

Turn the pillow cover right side out through the zipper opening or the envelope overlap. Use a blunt tool like a chopstick or a point turner to gently push out the corners from the inside. Do not use scissors or anything sharp, which can poke through the fabric.

Press the entire cover thoroughly. This step makes an enormous difference in the finished look. Take your time pressing the seam edges from the outside, coaxing them into sharp, even lines. If you have an envelope closure with a turning gap, press the raw edges of that gap inward a half inch so they are ready to slip-stitch closed after stuffing.

Step Nine: Add a Flange (Optional Detail)

A flange is a flat border that frames the pillow and gives it a designer look. After turning the cover right side out and pressing, stitch a straight line two inches in from every edge, all the way around the pillow cover before you insert the filling. Use a walking foot if you have one, which helps feed both layers of fabric evenly and prevents shifting. Mark your two-inch border with chalk or a quilting ruler before stitching so the line is consistent.

Step Ten: Fill the Pillow

Insert your pillow form or begin adding your loose filling. If you are using a premade pillow insert, fold it slightly to get it through the opening and then smooth it out inside the cover. Work the corners of the insert into the corners of the cover.

If you are using polyester fiberfill or shredded memory foam, add the filling in handfuls, distributing it evenly and pushing it into the corners as you go. Pack it generously — the filling will compress with use, so err on the side of firm. You can always remove some filling later if the pillow ends up too stiff, but it is harder to add more after the cover is closed.

For the most luxurious floor pillow, combine a base layer of shredded memory foam in the bottom third of the pillow with polyester fiberfill on top. This gives you the support of memory foam with the soft, cloud-like surface of fiberfill.

Step Eleven: Close the Opening

If you used an envelope closure, the pillow closes itself when the filling pushes the overlapping panels together. Give it a gentle shake to distribute the filling, and you are done.

If you have a zippered pillow, simply zip it closed. Test the zip a few times to make sure the pull glides smoothly and the cover lies flat on both sides.

If you left a turning gap and are using a plain seam closure, fold the raw edges in neatly and slip-stitch the opening closed by hand. Use a matching thread and small stitches for an invisible result.

Styling Your DIY Floor Pillow

Now comes the fun part. Floor pillows are remarkably versatile. Stack two or three in a corner to create an inviting reading nook. Arrange a cluster of different sizes around a low coffee table for casual entertaining. Layer them with a chunky knit throw and a small side table for a laid-back living room vibe. A single oversized floor pillow in an entryway makes a surprisingly stylish and practical spot for pulling on shoes.

For a cohesive look, choose a fabric that pulls one color from your existing room palette. A floor pillow in a solid linen or canvas coordinates with almost anything, while a bold geometric or botanical print can serve as a statement piece that ties together other accents in the room.

Caring for Your Floor Pillow

If you made a zippered or envelope closure cover, remove it and machine wash it on a gentle cycle in cold water. Tumble dry on low or hang to dry. Most home décor fabrics hold up beautifully to regular washing.

Fluff the filling periodically by picking up the pillow and giving it a good shake and a few firm kneads. This redistributes compressed filling and keeps the pillow looking full and inviting. If you used shredded memory foam, it may need a bit more coaxing to redistribute compared to fiberfill.

Over time, all pillow filling compresses. When your floor pillow starts to feel flat, unzip the cover and add a fresh handful or two of fiberfill to plump it back up. This is one of the great advantages of making your own — you can easily refresh it and it will feel brand new again.

A Few Extra Tips for Success

Invest in a walking foot if you do not already have one. It makes sewing through multiple layers of thick fabric dramatically easier and prevents the skipped stitches and uneven feeding that can frustrate sewists working with canvas or upholstery fabric.

Always test your stitch length and tension on a scrap of your actual fabric before starting on the real pieces. Heavy fabrics often need a slightly longer stitch length (3.0 to 3.5mm) for the best result.

If your machine is struggling with the thickness at the corners, use a hump jumper or fold a piece of scrap fabric to the same thickness and place it behind the presser foot as a ramp. This keeps the foot level and prevents uneven stitching.

Do not skip the pressing steps. I know it feels tedious when you just want to stuff the pillow and see the final result, but pressing is what separates a handmade project from a homemade-looking project. Each press takes thirty seconds and makes a visible difference.

Finally, label the zipper pull side with a small piece of masking tape before you turn the cover right side out if you used a zipper — it is surprisingly easy to forget which way the zipper opens once the cover is flipped, and fumbling around for the pull inside a stuffed pillow is an avoidable frustration.

Making your own floor pillow is one of those sewing projects that earns compliments out of proportion to the effort it took. People see a large, beautifully upholstered cushion and assume it was expensive and complicated. You will know that it took you an afternoon, cost a fraction of the retail price, and was completely within your abilities. That is the best kind of DIY project, and once you have made one, you will almost certainly want to make a whole set.