Crochet Recycled Old T-Shirts Rug Free Pattern: Turn Your Old Clothes Into a Beautiful Handmade Rug
If you’ve been staring at a pile of old t-shirts in the corner of your closet wondering what to do with them, this project is your answer. Making a crochet rug from recycled t-shirts is one of the most satisfying, eco-friendly, and budget-friendly crafts you can take on, whether you’re a beginner or a seasoned crocheter. In this free pattern guide, you’ll learn everything you need to know — from cutting your t-shirt yarn (also called “tarn”) to finishing off a gorgeous, durable rug you’ll actually want to show off in your home.
This pattern is worked in continuous rounds to create a classic oval or round rug, and because you’re working with thick fabric strips instead of commercial yarn, the whole project comes together faster than you might expect. Let’s dive in.
Why Crochet a T-Shirt Rug?
Before we get into the how, let’s talk about the why — because there are so many good reasons to make this project.
Old t-shirts that are too worn to donate or too stained to wear are the perfect raw material for this rug. Soft cotton jersey is naturally flexible, washable, and durable, which makes it ideal for a floor rug that gets daily use. Rather than sending those shirts to a landfill, you’re giving them a second life that could last for years or even decades.
T-shirt rugs are also incredibly cost-effective. If you have a drawer or bag of old shirts at home, your material cost is essentially zero. Even if you supplement your collection by picking up t-shirts from thrift stores, you can usually find them for a dollar or two each, which makes this one of the most affordable handmade rug projects out there.
From a craft perspective, the chunky texture of t-shirt yarn creates a rug with a beautiful, slightly rustic, boho aesthetic that works in almost any room — a bathroom, a bedroom, a hallway, a kitchen, or even a nursery. You can keep it monochrome, mix complementary colors, or go wild with as many colors as you have shirts. The creative freedom is completely yours.
What You’ll Need
Materials:
The number of t-shirts you need will depend on how big you want your finished rug to be. As a general rule, a small rug (roughly 20 by 30 inches) requires around 8 to 12 adult-sized t-shirts, while a medium rug (roughly 24 by 36 inches) needs 15 to 20 shirts. Larger rugs require proportionally more. Aim for 100% cotton or mostly cotton shirts — synthetic fabrics like polyester stretch less predictably and can feel stiff or slippery underfoot.
For your hook, you’ll want a large one. A size 16mm or even a 20mm crochet hook works well with t-shirt yarn strips about 1 to 1.5 inches wide. If you’re new to working with t-shirt yarn and find the tension difficult to manage, go up a hook size. Many crafters prefer ergonomic hooks with a large grip for this kind of project, since the thicker material requires more hand pressure.
You’ll also need a pair of sharp fabric scissors, a seam ripper (optional, but handy), and a large flat surface to work on when you’re cutting your strips.
Preparing Your T-Shirts (Making Tarn):
One of the most satisfying parts of this project is turning your old shirts into yarn. Here’s the most popular method for cutting continuous strips:
Lay your t-shirt flat on a table and cut off the hem at the very bottom. Then cut across the shirt, parallel to the hem, making strips about 1 to 1.5 inches wide. Stop each cut about one inch before you reach the side seam, so you don’t cut all the way through. After you’ve cut all your strips this way, fold the shirt so that you can see the small connected sections at the side seam. Then make diagonal cuts between each connecting section — essentially cutting at an angle from the bottom of one slit to the top of the next — so that the entire shirt unravels into one long, continuous strip.
Once you give this strip a gentle tug along its length, the fabric will naturally curl inward on itself, forming a rounded, yarn-like strand. Roll each finished strip into a ball so it’s easy to work with.
If you have shirts in several colors, prep them all before you start crocheting so you can plan your color arrangement. You can join strips together with a simple knot tucked on the wrong side of your work, or use the slip knot join method for a cleaner result.
Understanding the Stitch
This pattern uses primarily the single crochet stitch, which is perfect for rug-making because it creates a tight, dense fabric that holds its shape well under foot traffic. If you’re familiar with basic crochet, you’re already set. If you’re new, here’s a quick refresher:
To make a single crochet, insert your hook into the stitch, pull up a loop (you’ll have two loops on your hook), then yarn over and pull through both loops. That’s one single crochet complete.
For this rug, you’ll be working in a continuous spiral, meaning you don’t join your rounds with a slip stitch or chain up at the end of each round. Instead, you just keep going around, which creates a smooth, seamless surface without any visible round-change lines. Place a stitch marker in the last stitch of each round so you can count your progress.
The Free Pattern
Finished Size: Approximately 20 by 30 inches (small rug). Instructions for sizing up are included.
Hook: 16mm or 20mm
Yarn: T-shirt strips approximately 1 to 1.5 inches wide
Stitch Abbreviations:
- ch = chain
- sc = single crochet
- sl st = slip stitch
- st(s) = stitch(es)
- inc = increase (2 sc in the same stitch)
- BLO = back loop only
Foundation Chain
Chain 11. This beginning chain becomes the flat center of your oval rug, and the number of chains you start with determines the final proportions. A chain of 11 gives you a rug that is roughly twice as long as it is wide. For a more circular rug, chain 3 or 4. For a longer, more rectangular rug, chain 15 or more.
Round 1
Starting in the second chain from your hook, work 1 sc in each chain across until you reach the last chain (you’ll have 10 sc made). In that last chain, work 3 sc (this creates the first curved end of your oval). Now rotate your work and single crochet back along the other side of the foundation chain, working 1 sc in each of the remaining 9 chains. In the very last stitch (which is the same stitch you started in), work 3 sc to create the second curved end. You should have 24 stitches total. Place your stitch marker in the last stitch.
Round 2
Work 1 sc in each of the first 10 stitches. In each of the next 3 stitches (the curved end), work an increase (2 sc in each stitch). Work 1 sc in each of the next 9 stitches. Work an increase in each of the last 2 stitches of the round. You should have 30 stitches total.
Round 3
Work 1 sc in each of the first 10 stitches. Work 1 sc in the next stitch, then increase in the following stitch — repeat this pattern across the curved end (3 times total). Work 1 sc in each of the next 9 stitches. Work 1 sc in the next stitch, then increase — repeat across the second curved end (3 times). You should now have 36 stitches.
Round 4
Work 1 sc in each of the first 10 stitches. Work 2 sc, then increase — repeat across the curved end (3 times). Work 1 sc in each of the next 9 stitches. Work 2 sc, then increase — repeat across the second curved end (3 times). You should have 42 stitches.
Continuing the Pattern
The logic from here is straightforward: each round you add 6 stitches total (3 increases distributed across each curved end). The increases are always spread out evenly across the two short ends of the oval, while the long straight sides continue with one single crochet in each stitch, adding no extra stitches.
As a general rule for each subsequent round, the increase spacing goes up by one stitch each time. So Round 5 will have increases every 3 stitches in the curved ends, Round 6 every 4 stitches, and so on. Work each round until your rug is the size you want.
For a 20 by 30 inch rug, you’ll work approximately 10 to 12 rounds total, depending on how tightly you crochet and how wide your fabric strips are. Check your size by laying the rug flat as you go.
Switching Colors
When you want to introduce a new color (or when one strip of t-shirt yarn runs out and you need to join a new one), do so at the end of a stitch. Work up to the last pull-through of your single crochet, then drop your current strand and pull the new color through to complete that stitch. Leave a tail of about 4 inches on both strands, which you’ll weave in later. For a cleaner join, some crafters prefer to do color changes at the beginning of a straight side section so any color-change bump is less visible.
Final Round and Finishing
For the last round, work in BLO (back loop only). This creates a subtle ridge that acts as a neat finished edge, giving your rug a more polished look. Some crafters also like to finish with a round of reverse single crochet (also called crab stitch) around the outer edge, which creates a twisted, rope-like border.
To fasten off, cut your strip leaving a tail of about 6 inches. Pull the tail all the way through the last loop, then use your crochet hook or a large-eye tapestry needle to weave the end back through several stitches on the wrong side of the rug to secure it.
Weave in all remaining ends on the wrong side, pulling them under at least 3 or 4 stitches in different directions so they stay secure through washing and foot traffic.
Tips for a Flat, Even Rug
One of the most common questions from first-time rug makers is: why is my rug curling up at the edges? This almost always comes down to tension. T-shirt yarn is stretchy, and if you crochet too tightly, the fabric will pull inward and cup upward. The fix is simple — loosen your tension, go up a hook size, or both.
Another way to ensure your rug lies flat is to block it. Wet the finished rug thoroughly, lay it flat on a clean surface, gently stretch it into the shape you want, and let it dry completely. For a t-shirt rug, this blocking process is very forgiving since cotton relaxes beautifully when damp.
If your rug still has a slight tendency to curl at the edge, you can sew a non-slip rug pad to the back, which solves two problems at once — it keeps the rug flat and prevents it from sliding around on hard floors.
Sizing Up Your Rug
If you want a larger rug, the pattern scales very simply. Just start with a longer foundation chain and continue working more rounds. Here are some rough guides:
For a 24 by 36 inch rug, start with a chain of 15 and work approximately 14 to 16 rounds. For a 30 by 48 inch rug, start with a chain of 20 and work 18 to 22 rounds. These measurements are approximate since the actual dimensions will vary depending on your tension and the width of your fabric strips. The best approach is to measure your rug frequently as you work and stop when it reaches your target size.
You can also make a perfectly round rug by starting with just a magic ring or a chain of 3 joined into a ring, then working increases evenly around every round. A round rug uses more t-shirts than an oval of the same diameter, so plan accordingly.
Washing and Care
One of the great advantages of t-shirt rugs is that they’re completely machine washable. Because the rug is made from cotton t-shirt material, it handles washing machines well. Turn the rug inside out if possible, place it in a mesh laundry bag to protect the edges, and wash on a gentle cycle with cold water. Tumble dry on low or lay flat to air dry — air drying is better for preserving the rug’s shape over time.
Color and Design Ideas
Part of what makes this project so fun is the endless design possibilities. Here are a few approaches to inspire you:
A monochromatic rug made entirely from white or grey shirts creates a clean, minimal look that works beautifully in a bathroom or modern bedroom. A rainbow rug, with each round worked in a different color, is playful and bold and makes a perfect kids’ room rug. An ombre effect, gradually shifting from dark to light or one hue to another, is surprisingly easy to achieve by sorting your shirts into color groups and working each group for two or three rounds before transitioning. A striped rug can be created by alternating two colors every few rounds.
You can also plan color placement ahead of time by laying your t-shirt yarn balls out and roughly sketching the color scheme on paper before you pick up your hook.
A Note on Sustainability
Every t-shirt rug you make keeps a small amount of textile waste out of a landfill. The fashion industry is one of the most resource-intensive industries in the world, and while one rug won’t solve that problem, it represents a meaningful, tangible act of creativity over consumption. You’re not just making a rug — you’re practicing a philosophy of making things last longer, valuing what you already own, and finding beauty in what might otherwise be discarded.
If you run out of your own old shirts, check with family and friends who might have bags of old clothes they’re trying to clear out. Thrift stores are another great source, and many will sell shirts by weight if you’re buying in bulk. It’s possible to gather more than enough material for a large rug for just a few dollars.
Final Thoughts
This crochet recycled t-shirt rug pattern is proof that beautiful, functional, handmade home goods don’t have to be expensive or complicated. With a pile of old shirts, a large crochet hook, and an afternoon or two of your time, you can create something genuinely useful and uniquely yours. No two t-shirt rugs are ever exactly the same, which means yours will always be one of a kind.
If you make this rug, consider sharing a photo and tagging your work so others in the crafting community can see your version and be inspired to try it themselves. Happy crocheting!
