Step-by-Step Guide: How to Knit the Diagonal Basketweave Stitch

If you’ve ever admired a knitted fabric that looks like it was woven by hand — rich with texture, full of movement, and somehow even more beautiful in person than in photographs — there’s a good chance you were looking at a diagonal basketweave stitch. This classic knitting technique creates an interlocking pattern of raised and recessed squares that run at a 45-degree angle across the fabric, giving finished projects an almost three-dimensional quality that knitters and non-knitters alike find irresistible.

Whether you’re a beginner who has mastered knit and purl stitches and is looking for your first texture project, or an experienced knitter searching for a new stitch pattern to add to your repertoire, the diagonal basketweave is one of those techniques that rewards the time you put into learning it. The finished fabric is thick, squishy, and reversible, making it ideal for a wide range of projects from cozy scarves and blankets to decorative pillows and stylish bags.

This comprehensive guide will walk you through everything you need to know: the materials required, the abbreviations used, how to read the stitch pattern, row-by-row instructions, and tips for troubleshooting common mistakes. By the time you reach the end, you’ll be ready to cast on your first diagonal basketweave project with confidence.

What Is the Diagonal Basketweave Stitch?

The diagonal basketweave stitch is a knitting pattern that simulates the look of woven fabric, specifically the kind of over-under weave you’d find in a traditional wicker or rattan basket. The “diagonal” part of its name refers to the way the woven squares travel across the fabric at an angle, rather than sitting in straight horizontal or vertical rows.

The stitch is worked using only knit and purl stitches, which makes it technically accessible to anyone who has completed a beginner knitting course or project. However, the magic lies in the specific sequence of these stitches across multiple rows, which creates the illusion of raised ridges crossing over and under one another at precise intervals.

One of the most appealing characteristics of this stitch is its reversibility. The wrong side of the fabric displays an equally attractive mirror image of the front, making it perfect for items like scarves, throws, and dishcloths where both sides are visible. The fabric also has very little curl at the edges, which is a common frustration with many knitting patterns, so you won’t need to worry about adding border stitches to keep things flat.

Materials You’ll Need

Before you cast on, gather the following supplies. Having everything ready before you start will make your knitting experience smoother and more enjoyable.

Yarn: Any weight of yarn will work for the diagonal basketweave stitch, but medium weight (worsted or aran) is ideal for beginners because the stitches are large enough to see clearly and work quickly. Choose a smooth, light-colored yarn when you’re learning so you can easily see each stitch. Once you’re comfortable with the pattern, you can experiment with darker colors or more textured fibers.

Needles: Use the needle size recommended on your yarn label as a starting point. For worsted weight yarn, this is typically a US size 7 to 9 (4.5mm to 5.5mm) needle. The stitch pattern works well on both straight and circular needles.

Scissors and a tapestry needle: You’ll need these for weaving in ends when your project is complete.

A row counter: Because the diagonal basketweave repeats over multiple rows, a row counter — whether a physical counter that clips onto your needle or an app on your phone — will help you keep track of where you are in the pattern.

Stitch markers (optional): If you’re working a large project or incorporating the basketweave into a wider pattern, stitch markers can help you keep track of the stitch repeat boundaries.

Abbreviations and Terminology

Throughout this guide, the following abbreviations are used. If you’re unfamiliar with any of them, review a beginner’s guide to knitting abbreviations before proceeding.

k — knit
p — purl
st(s) — stitch(es)
RS — right side
WS — wrong side
rep — repeat
sl — slip (move a stitch from left needle to right needle without working it)
yo — yarn over
CO — cast on
BO — bind off

Understanding the Stitch Repeat

The diagonal basketweave stitch is based on a repeat of 8 stitches and 8 rows. This is the fundamental unit of the pattern — the building block that tiles across and up your fabric to create the full basketweave effect.

This means that for a swatch or project worked flat (back and forth), you’ll want to cast on a multiple of 8 stitches. For example, 16, 24, 32, 40, or 48 stitches. If you’d like a small border on each side, you can add 2 extra stitches (one on each side) to the multiple of 8 and work those edge stitches in garter stitch (knit every row) or slip them for a clean selvage edge.

For a practice swatch, casting on 24 stitches (three full repeats) is a great starting point. It gives you enough fabric to see the full pattern take shape without committing too many yards of yarn.

Reading the Pattern Chart

Many knitting patterns for the diagonal basketweave provide a visual chart in addition to written row-by-row instructions. If you’re working from a chart, here’s what to know:

Charts are read from the bottom up, just as your knitting grows from the cast-on edge upward. Right-side rows are read from right to left, and wrong-side rows are read from left to right. Each square on the chart represents one stitch. A blank square typically represents a knit stitch on the right side (and a purl on the wrong side), while a dot or dash in the square represents a purl stitch on the right side (and a knit on the wrong side).

That said, written instructions are often easier for beginners to follow, so this guide will provide both explanations of the logic and row-by-row written instructions.

Step-by-Step Instructions for the Diagonal Basketweave Stitch

The pattern below is worked flat, back and forth on straight or circular needles. The stitch count is a multiple of 8.

For your practice swatch, cast on 24 stitches.

Setting Up

Cast on your stitches using your preferred method. The long-tail cast on is a good choice for this pattern because it creates a neat, stretchy edge that complements the texture of the basketweave fabric.

The 8-Row Repeat

Row 1 (RS): k4, p4; rep from to end.

Row 2 (WS): k4, p4; rep from to end.

Row 3 (RS): k4, p4; rep from to end.

Row 4 (RS): k4, p4; rep from to end.

Row 5 (RS): p1, k4, p3; rep from to end.

Row 6 (WS): k3, p4, k1; rep from to end.

Row 7 (RS): p2, k4, p2; rep from to end.

Row 8 (WS): k2, p4, k2; rep from to end.

Row 9 (RS): p3, k4, p1; rep from to end.

Row 10 (WS): k1, p4, k3; rep from to end.

Row 11 (RS): p4, k4; rep from to end.

Row 12 (WS): p4, k4; rep from to end.

Row 13 (RS): p4, k4; rep from to end.

Row 14 (WS): p4, k4; rep from to end.

Row 15 (RS): k1, p4, k3; rep from to end.

Row 16 (WS): p3, k4, p1; rep from to end.

Row 17 (RS): k2, p4, k2; rep from to end.

Row 18 (WS): p2, k4, p2; rep from to end.

Row 19 (RS): k3, p4, k1; rep from to end.

Row 20 (WS): p1, k4, p3; rep from to end.

Rows 1 through 20 form one complete diagonal cycle. Repeat these 20 rows until your piece reaches the desired length, then bind off in pattern on a right-side row.

Understanding Why the Diagonal Works

It helps to understand what’s actually happening in the pattern so you can knit it more intuitively and correct mistakes more easily when they arise.

Rows 1 through 4 establish the first set of vertical basketweave columns: columns of knit stitches alternating with columns of purl stitches in groups of four. This creates the classic ribbed or woven appearance.

Starting at Row 5, the purl stitches begin to “shift” one stitch to the left with each subsequent row. Because purl stitches recede into the fabric while knit stitches stand forward, this shift causes the raised columns to appear to travel diagonally across the fabric. By Row 11, the columns have shifted four stitches, and the blocks are now exactly opposite to where they started.

Rows 11 through 14 hold the second position, and then Rows 15 through 20 shift the pattern back to the original position, completing the diagonal cycle. The result is a fabric where each block of four stitches appears to weave over and under its neighbors as your eye travels diagonally across the fabric — exactly like a woven basket.

Once you understand this logic, you’ll find it much easier to “read” your knitting and know exactly where you are in the pattern even if you lose count of your rows.

Tips for Success

Use a lifeline. A lifeline is a length of smooth, contrasting-color yarn threaded through all the live stitches at the end of a correctly completed repeat. If you make a mistake several rows later and need to rip back, you can rip down only to the lifeline rather than all the way to the cast-on edge. Thread the lifeline at the end of Row 20 each time you complete a full repeat.

Count your stitches regularly. The diagonal basketweave doesn’t involve any increases or decreases, so your stitch count should always remain the same. Getting into the habit of counting at the end of each row will help you catch mistakes early before they cascade into larger problems.

Mark your right side. On the first row, place a removable stitch marker or a small piece of yarn on the right side of your work. Because the fabric is reversible, it can be easy to lose track of which side is which, and working a wrong-side row as a right-side row will throw off the diagonal shift.

Don’t pull too tight. The alternating knit and purl sections need a little flexibility to create the characteristic raised ridges of the basketweave. If you’re a tight knitter, try going up half a needle size to keep the fabric supple and even.

Practice on a small swatch first. Even experienced knitters benefit from knitting a small swatch before beginning a larger project. It gives you a chance to check your gauge, see how the pattern looks in your chosen yarn, and get comfortable with the row sequence before you commit to a full project.

Troubleshooting Common Mistakes

The diagonal isn’t appearing. The most common cause is working wrong-side rows as right-side rows. Double-check that you’re beginning right-side rows from the right end of the needle (where your working yarn is attached after casting on) and wrong-side rows from the left end.

The pattern looks like straight vertical columns instead of diagonal blocks. This usually means the purl shift isn’t happening, which could mean you’ve been working the same row over and over. Use a row counter and double-check the row number before beginning each row.

There’s a jog or interruption in the diagonal. This often happens when you’ve accidentally added or dropped a stitch. Count your stitches, and if the count is off, use a crochet hook to rip back to the most recent correctly knitted row (or to your lifeline) and re-work from there.

The fabric is puckering or not lying flat. This is usually a tension issue. Try loosening your grip on the yarn and needles slightly, or switch to a larger needle size. Blocking your finished piece by wetting it, pinning it to your desired dimensions, and allowing it to dry will also help the fabric relax and lie flat.

Project Ideas Using the Diagonal Basketweave Stitch

Once you’ve mastered the stitch pattern, you’ll find that it adapts beautifully to a wide range of projects.

Scarves and cowls are the most natural fit. The reversible nature of the fabric means both sides of a scarf are equally attractive, and the thick, dense structure creates wonderful warmth. Try a simple rectangle scarf in a bulky yarn for a weekend project, or work up a generous infinity cowl in a soft merino wool.

Throw blankets and lap blankets showcase the full repeating diagonal pattern to spectacular effect. Work the basketweave across a wide cast-on and simply keep going until you have the size you want. The pattern is repetitive enough to work up quickly while still being engaging enough to keep you interested.

Dishcloths and washcloths are a classic use for textured stitch patterns, and the diagonal basketweave is especially suited to this purpose. The raised ridges give the cloth a gentle scrubbing texture, and the tight fabric holds up well to heavy use and repeated washing. Work these in 100% cotton for best results.

Pillowcases and cushion covers are another great use. Because the fabric has minimal curl and excellent structure, it makes a beautiful pillow front. Pair it with a simple stockinette back and add a zipper or button closure.

Bags and totes benefit from the dense, stable structure of the basketweave stitch. Work the pattern in a sturdy cotton or linen yarn to create a reusable market bag or a stylish project bag for your knitting supplies.

Finishing Your Project

When you’ve reached the desired length for your project, bind off on a right-side row using a standard bind off or an elastic bind off such as the sewn bind off or the Jeny’s Surprisingly Stretchy Bind Off. For the best appearance, try to bind off in pattern — knitting over knit stitches and purling over purl stitches as they appear on the needle.

After binding off, weave in all yarn ends securely using your tapestry needle. Run the tail through several stitches in one direction, then double back through a few stitches in the opposite direction to lock the end in place, and trim close to the fabric.

Block your finished piece by wetting it thoroughly in cool water, gently pressing out the excess water (don’t wring or twist), laying it flat on a blocking mat or clean towel, pinning it to the finished dimensions, and allowing it to dry completely away from direct sunlight or heat. Blocking opens up the stitch pattern, evens out any tension inconsistencies, and gives your finished project a polished, professional look.

Final Thoughts

The diagonal basketweave stitch is one of those patterns that seems more complex than it actually is. Once you understand the underlying logic — that you’re simply shifting a column of purl stitches one position to the left every two rows — the pattern becomes almost automatic, and you’ll find your hands moving through the rows with an easy, meditative rhythm.

It’s a stitch that photographs beautifully, works up into heirloom-quality fabric, and earns genuine admiration from anyone who sees or touches the finished piece. And because it requires only the two most fundamental knitting stitches, it’s genuinely achievable at almost any skill level.

Cast on your practice swatch, take it one row at a time, and don’t be discouraged if the diagonal effect isn’t immediately obvious in the first few rows — it takes a full repeat or more for the pattern to truly reveal itself. When it does, that moment of recognition, when the woven diagonals suddenly come into focus across the fabric, is one of the quiet satisfactions that makes knitting such a deeply rewarding craft.

Happy knitting.