The Aveline Rug — Free Crochet Pattern
There is something deeply satisfying about making a rug from scratch. It lives underfoot, quietly anchoring a room, absorbing the texture of daily life while also adding beauty to a space you have intentionally designed. When I designed the Aveline Rug, I wanted to create something that felt both timeless and approachable — a pattern that a confident beginner could finish with pride and that an experienced crocheter could breeze through on a cozy weekend. The result is a chunky, textured rug that works up beautifully in bulky yarn and can be customized to fit almost any room in your home.
Whether you are making this for your entryway, your bathroom, the side of your bed, or a nursery, the Aveline Rug brings that handmade warmth that simply cannot be found in a store. Let me walk you through everything you need to know to make your own.
What Makes the Aveline Rug Special
The Aveline Rug is worked in the round, starting from a central foundation chain and expanding outward in an oval shape. The stitch pattern combines single crochets and slip stitches in a way that creates a firm, dense fabric — exactly what you want from a floor rug. Because of this density, the rug holds its shape beautifully over time and stands up to everyday foot traffic without becoming floppy or misshapen.
The name Aveline comes from the old French word for hazelnut, and I chose it because the neutral, earthy colorways this rug looks best in remind me of exactly that — warm browns, creamy tans, soft grays, and deep charcoals. That said, this pattern is a blank canvas, and I have seen makers bring it to life in bold terracottas, dusty blues, and sage greens to spectacular effect.
This is also a genuinely free crochet pattern, with every stitch count and row-by-row instruction included right here on the page. No purchase required, no email sign-up necessary. Just you, your yarn, and your hook.
Materials You Will Need
Before you cast on — or rather, chain up — let me give you a complete list of materials so you can gather everything ahead of time and settle in without interruption.
Yarn: You will need approximately 400–500 yards of bulky weight yarn (weight category 6) for the small size, or 700–900 yards for the medium size. I recommend a cotton or cotton-blend yarn for rugs because cotton holds up to washing, resists pilling, and lays flat without curling. Some of my favorite options for this project are Lion Brand Re-Up (made from recycled materials, which I love for a floor project), Paintbox Simply Chunky, or Wool and the Gang Billie Jean Yarn. That said, any bulky yarn you love will work beautifully.
Hook: A 9mm crochet hook works well for this pattern, though you should always swatch and adjust to match your gauge. If your rug is coming out stiffer than you like, go up a hook size. If it feels too floppy, go down.
Additional Materials: A yarn needle for weaving in ends, scissors, and a tape measure. If you plan to use this rug in a bathroom or on hardwood floors, I highly recommend picking up a non-slip rug pad or applying a few rows of non-skid fabric paint to the back once the rug is finished.
Gauge
Gauge for rugs is a little more forgiving than it is for garments, but it still matters if you want your finished rug to match a specific size. For this pattern, the gauge is approximately 10 single crochets and 12 rows equals 4 inches, worked in the round with a 9mm hook and bulky weight yarn. Swatch before you begin, especially if you are working toward a specific dimension.
Sizing
The Aveline Rug is written in two sizes:
Small: Approximately 18 inches wide by 28 inches long. This is a great bathroom rug or bedside mat size.
Medium: Approximately 24 inches wide by 36 inches long. This size works beautifully as an entryway rug or a mat beneath a coffee table.
Instructions for the medium size are written in parentheses throughout the pattern. When you see two sets of numbers, the first applies to the small and the number in parentheses applies to the medium.
Abbreviations and Stitches Used
Here is a quick reference guide to the abbreviations used throughout this pattern. All stitches are standard US terminology.
ch — chain
sl st — slip stitch
sc — single crochet
sc2tog — single crochet two together (decrease)
BLO — back loop only
st(s) — stitch(es)
rep — repeat
rnd — round
sp — space
The main stitch used throughout the body of this rug is single crochet worked in the back loop only. Working in the BLO creates a lovely ridged texture on the surface of the rug that gives it a woven, almost ribbed appearance. It also adds thickness, which contributes to that satisfying squishiness underfoot.
Pattern Notes
Before you begin, please read through these notes — they will save you a lot of trouble later.
This rug is worked in continuous rounds unless otherwise noted. I recommend using a stitch marker to keep track of the beginning of each round. Move your marker up as you go.
The foundation of this rug is an oval, created by chaining a set number of stitches, working down one side, working around the end, working back up the other side, and working around the other end. This is sometimes called an oval foundation or magic oval, and it is the same technique used for the soles of amigurumi shoes. If you have never done this before, do not worry — it is intuitive once you begin.
Do not join rounds with a slip stitch unless specifically instructed. Keep working in a continuous spiral.
Tension matters more for a rug than for most projects because you want it to lay flat. If your rug is cupping or curling upward, your tension is too tight — try loosening up or going up a hook size.
The Aveline Rug — Free Crochet Pattern
Foundation Chain
Chain 16 (26).
Round 1
Starting in the second chain from the hook, sc in each ch across to the last ch — 15 (25) sts. Work 3 sc in the last ch (this turns the corner). Now working along the opposite side of the foundation chain, sc in each ch back across — 14 (24) sts. Work 2 sc in the first chain (the same one you started in) to close the oval. Place your stitch marker here. Total sts: 34 (54).
Round 2
Sc in each st around, working 3 sc in the center stitch of each short end (the middle stitch of the 3-sc corners from the previous round). Total sts: 38 (58).
Rounds 3–6 (3–8 for Medium)
Continue working sc in BLO in each stitch around, adding increases at the short ends as follows: on each round, work 2 sc in the stitch directly before the center corner stitch, 3 sc in the center corner stitch, and 2 sc in the stitch directly after the center corner stitch. This gradual increase keeps the oval shape smooth and prevents the ends from becoming too pointed.
After completing Round 6 (8), your rug should measure approximately 10 inches (14 inches) wide.
Rounds 7–18 (9–26 for Medium)
Work sc in BLO in each stitch around without any increases. These straight rounds build up the length of the rug and create the beautiful ridged texture. Keep your tension consistent throughout.
If you would like a longer rug, simply continue working straight rounds until you reach your desired length. For every 2 additional rounds you add, you will use approximately 20–25 extra yards of yarn, so plan accordingly.
Round 19 (27 for Medium)
This is a decorative border round. Sl st in BLO in each stitch all the way around. This creates a crisp, defined edge and helps the outer rim lay flat.
Finishing Round
Sl st in the next stitch to close the round. Cut your yarn, leaving a 6-inch tail. Pull the tail through and weave in all ends securely with your yarn needle.
Finishing Your Rug
Weaving in ends properly is especially important for a rug because it will be pulled, stepped on, and washed regularly. I recommend weaving the tail in at least three different directions, working the needle through several stitches each time. For extra security, you can tie a small knot before weaving.
Once your ends are secured, lay your rug flat on a clean surface and assess whether it needs to be blocked. Cotton rugs generally do not need wet blocking the way wool does, but a light steam or a quick soak-and-lay-flat can help even out any irregularities. If you are using a wool or wool-blend yarn, wet blocking will make a noticeable difference in how beautifully the rug lays.
If your rug is intended for a bathroom or hardwood floor, this is the time to apply non-slip backing. You can purchase iron-on non-skid fabric from most craft stores, or you can use a product like Plasti-Dip or non-skid rug coating spray on the back. Apply it in a few rows of dots or lines across the back, let it dry completely, and your rug will stay exactly where you put it.
Yarn Color Ideas for the Aveline Rug
One of the most fun parts of making this rug is choosing your colorway. Because the stitch pattern creates such lovely texture, it looks especially striking in solid or heathered yarns that let the ridges show clearly. Variegated yarns also work, though they tend to blend into the texture a bit and show less of the patterning.
Here are some color combinations that have worked beautifully for makers who have shared their versions with me.
A warm oatmeal or cream makes the rug feel fresh and Scandinavian, perfect for a bathroom or minimalist entryway. Charcoal or graphite gives it an urban, modern feel that looks stunning on light wood floors. A deep terracotta or rust brings a boho earthiness that works beautifully in a bedroom or living room. Sage green or dusty blue gives the rug a soft, cottagecore quality that feels right at home next to natural wood furniture and linen textiles.
If you would like to stripe the rug, the round structure makes it easy — simply change colors at the beginning of any round and carry your yarn loosely up the inside or cut and rejoin each time. Alternating two neutrals, like cream and tan or ivory and gray, creates a subtle stripe effect that adds visual interest without overwhelming the space.
Caring for Your Aveline Rug
A handmade rug deserves a little extra care to stay looking its best for years to come. If you used a cotton or cotton-blend yarn, your rug is almost certainly machine washable. Turn it over, check the yarn label to confirm, and then wash it on a gentle or delicate cycle in cold water. Lay it flat to dry rather than putting it in the dryer — the heat can cause cotton to shrink slightly, and air drying preserves the shape much better.
If you used a wool yarn, hand wash the rug in cool water with a small amount of wool wash or gentle dish soap. Press out excess water gently — never wring it — and lay it flat to dry completely before using or storing.
Shake out your rug regularly to remove debris, and vacuum it gently on a low setting if needed. Rugs that are used frequently may benefit from a gentle reshaping and air dry every few months to keep them looking neat.
Tips for Success
Here are a few extra tips drawn from my own experience making this rug and from the feedback of people who have made it in my community.
Starting the oval foundation can feel awkward the first time, particularly turning the corner at the end of the foundation chain. Take it slowly, use your fingers to hold the work in place as you go, and do not be afraid to rip back and try again. The foundation really does set the tone for the whole project, and getting it right makes everything else much easier.
If your rug grows wider than expected as you go, your increases may be slightly off. Count your stitches carefully after each of the first six rounds and compare them to the stitch counts given in the pattern. Catching an error early is much easier than trying to fix it after ten rounds.
Rugs can feel tedious in the middle rounds because the stitch counts are high and the design is repetitive. I find it helpful to listen to a podcast or audiobook during those long middle rows, or to set a small goal — finish one round, then take a break — rather than trying to power through the whole rug in a single sitting. The rug will get done, and you will enjoy the process more if you give yourself permission to take it at your own pace.
If you are making multiple rugs for different rooms and want them to coordinate, keep a note of your hook size and the specific yarn brand and colorway so you can replicate your results exactly.
Share Your Make
If you make the Aveline Rug, I would absolutely love to see it. Tag me on Instagram or share your finished photo in the Meghan Makes Do community group. Seeing your version of this pattern — your color choices, your yarn, your floors — is genuinely one of my favorite parts of sharing free patterns.
If you run into any trouble with the pattern or spot an error, please leave a comment below and I will get back to you as quickly as I can. This pattern has been tested, but mistakes do happen, and I am always grateful when sharp-eyed makers catch something that needs correcting.
Happy hooking, and I hope the Aveline Rug brings a little handmade warmth to your home for a very long time to come.
This free crochet pattern was designed and written by Meghan Makes Do. Please do not reproduce or sell this pattern as your own. You are welcome to sell finished items made from this pattern — just give a little credit where it is due. Thank you for supporting independent designers.
