Halloween Witch Doll Crochet Pattern: Cute Amigurumi PDF Guide

There is something magical about crocheting a tiny Halloween witch doll from scratch. The moment you finish that last stitch and hold your little amigurumi witch in your hands — pointy hat, broom, and all — is genuinely one of the most satisfying experiences a crafter can have. Whether you are a seasoned amigurumi maker or someone who has just learned the basics of single crochet and slip stitch, this Halloween witch doll crochet pattern is designed to guide you every step of the way toward creating an adorable, spooky-cute project that is perfect for the season.

This pattern is beginner-friendly with intermediate-level finishing touches, meaning even newer crocheters can achieve beautiful results. By the end of this post, you will have everything you need to create your own cute amigurumi witch doll, and I have included tips on how to save it as a printable PDF so you can craft anywhere — at the kitchen table, on the couch, or curled up with a cup of pumpkin spice while Halloween decorations twinkle around you.

Why Amigurumi Witch Dolls Are the Perfect Halloween Project

Amigurumi — the Japanese art of crocheting small stuffed creatures and characters — has taken the crafting world by storm over the past couple of decades. The word itself comes from the Japanese words “ami” (knitted or crocheted) and “nuigurumi” (stuffed doll). These little figures are charming, portable, and incredibly gift-worthy.

A Halloween witch amigurumi checks every box for a seasonal project. She is festive without being frightening, which means she is as appropriate for a child’s Halloween basket as she is sitting on your mantle next to a row of pumpkins. She takes far less time to make than a full-size Halloween quilt or costume, and because she is made in the round with no sewing machine required, she is a true hands-only craft.

Witch dolls also allow for tremendous creativity. You can keep yours traditional with a black dress and green skin, or go pastel and whimsical with lavender yarn and a striped hat. You can add a tiny broomstick, a miniature black cat companion, or a little cauldron. The possibilities are as wide as your yarn stash.

Materials You Will Need

Before diving into the pattern itself, gather your supplies. Having everything within reach before you begin makes the process much smoother.

Yarn: Worsted weight (size 4) yarn works beautifully for this pattern and gives your witch a sturdy, well-defined shape. You will need black for the dress, hat, and shoes; green (or any skin tone you prefer) for the head and hands; a contrasting color like purple, orange, or dark teal for the hat band and dress details; and small amounts of white or cream for the eyes and face details. If you want to add hair, pick up some yarn in brown, black, or even white for a dramatic silvery look.

Hook: A 3.5mm (size E/4) or 4.0mm (size G/6) crochet hook pairs perfectly with worsted weight yarn for amigurumi, as working with a slightly smaller hook than the yarn recommends gives you a tighter fabric that holds stuffing in without gaps.

Safety Eyes: 9mm or 12mm black safety eyes give your witch doll a polished, professional look. If you are making this for a child under three years old, embroider eyes with black yarn instead for safety.

Polyester Fiberfill: A small bag of stuffing is all you need. Stuff your pieces firmly but not so tightly that the yarn stretches and gaps show.

Tapestry Needle: For weaving in ends and sewing pieces together.

Stitch Markers: Amigurumi is worked in continuous rounds, so a stitch marker placed in the first stitch of each round saves you from losing your place.

Optional Extras: Craft wire (for posable limbs), a small twig or wooden dowel for the broomstick, brown yarn for the broom bristles, and a little ribbon or fabric scrap for a bow at the hat or waist.

Understanding the Pattern Abbreviations

This pattern uses standard US crochet terminology. Here is a quick reference:

MR = Magic ring (also called magic circle). This is the best way to start amigurumi pieces because it closes completely, leaving no hole in the center.

ch = chain

sc = single crochet

inc = increase (two single crochets in the same stitch)

dec = invisible decrease (insert your hook through the front loop only of the next two stitches, then complete as one single crochet — this creates a smooth, nearly invisible decrease)

sl st = slip stitch

BLO = back loop only

FLO = front loop only

[ ] x = repeat the instructions inside the brackets the number of times indicated

All pieces are worked in continuous rounds unless otherwise noted. Do not join rounds with a slip stitch or chain unless the pattern specifically says to do so.

The Pattern: Halloween Witch Amigurumi Doll

This pattern creates a doll approximately 7 to 8 inches tall when finished, depending on your tension and yarn weight.

Head

Start with your green (or skin-tone) yarn.

Round 1: MR, 6 sc into ring. (6 stitches)

Round 2: [inc] x6. (12 stitches)

Round 3: [sc, inc] x6. (18 stitches)

Round 4: [sc x2, inc] x6. (24 stitches)

Round 5: [sc x3, inc] x6. (30 stitches)

Round 6: [sc x4, inc] x6. (36 stitches)

Rounds 7–13: sc in each stitch around. (36 stitches, 7 rounds)

Round 14: [sc x4, dec] x6. (30 stitches)

Round 15: [sc x3, dec] x6. (24 stitches)

Attach your safety eyes between rounds 9 and 10, approximately 8 to 9 stitches apart. This is also the time to embroider any nose or rosy cheek details you want. A tiny pink or red stitch for the nose and two small circles of pink blush (created with a cotton swab and pink chalk or blush cosmetic) give your witch a sweet, animated expression.

Round 16: [sc x2, dec] x6. (18 stitches)

Begin stuffing the head firmly at this point. Continue adding stuffing as you close up.

Round 17: [sc, dec] x6. (12 stitches)

Round 18: [dec] x6. (6 stitches)

Fasten off, leaving a short tail. Use your tapestry needle to weave through the remaining 6 front loops and pull tight to close. Weave in the end.

Body

Switch to black yarn.

Round 1: MR, 6 sc. (6)

Round 2: [inc] x6. (12)

Round 3: [sc, inc] x6. (18)

Round 4: [sc x2, inc] x6. (24)

Round 5: [sc x3, inc] x6. (30)

Rounds 6–12: sc in each stitch around. (30 stitches, 7 rounds)

At round 10, you can switch to your accent color (purple, for example) for one or two rounds to create a striped effect on the dress. Simply drop the black yarn, pick up your accent color, and continue. Carry the black yarn loosely inside the work or cut and rejoin.

Round 13: [sc x3, dec] x6. (24 stitches)

Round 14: sc in each stitch around. (24)

Round 15: [sc x2, dec] x6. (18 stitches)

Round 16: sc in each stitch around. (18)

Stuff the body firmly, shaping it as you go. You want a nice rounded bottom that tapers slightly toward the top (the neck area).

Round 17: [sc, dec] x6. (12 stitches)

Round 18: [dec] x6. (6 stitches)

Fasten off and close as you did the head. Set aside.

Arms (Make Two)

Using green yarn:

Round 1: MR, 6 sc. (6)

Round 2: [inc] x6. (12)

Rounds 3–4: sc in each stitch around. (12)

Switch to black yarn.

Rounds 5–12: sc in each stitch around. (12)

Lightly stuff the top two-thirds of the arm, leaving the hand end (green section) a little flatter and more flexible. Flatten the top of the arm and sc across both layers (through 6 stitches) to close it flat — this makes sewing the arms to the body much easier and gives them a natural hanging position.

Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing.

Legs and Shoes (Make Two)

Using black yarn for shoes:

Round 1: MR, 6 sc. (6)

Round 2: [inc] x6. (12)

Round 3: [sc, inc] x6. (18)

Rounds 4–5: sc in each stitch around. (18)

Round 6: [sc, dec] x6. (12) — this begins shaping the ankle

Switch to green yarn (or leave in black for stocking-covered legs):

Rounds 7–14: sc in each stitch around. (12)

Stuff the foot and lower leg firmly. Close the top of the leg flat as you did with the arms, closing across 6 stitches.

Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing.

The Witch Hat

The hat is one of the most satisfying pieces to make. Using black yarn:

Round 1: MR, 4 sc. (4)

Round 2: [inc] x4. (8)

Round 3: sc in each stitch around. (8)

Round 4: [sc, inc] x4. (12)

Round 5: sc in each stitch around. (12)

Round 6: [sc x2, inc] x4. (16)

Round 7: sc in each stitch around. (16)

Round 8: [sc x3, inc] x4. (20)

Round 9: sc in each stitch around. (20)

Round 10: [sc x4, inc] x4. (24)

Round 11: sc in each stitch around. (24)

Now create the brim of the hat. You will work in the front loop only for a clean ridge effect:

Round 12 (BLO): [sc x3, inc] x6. (30)

Round 13: [sc x4, inc] x6. (36)

Round 14: [sc x5, inc] x6. (42)

Round 15: sc in each stitch around. (42)

Sl st to join and fasten off. Add a band of your accent color by joining it to the brim ridge (the unused back loops from round 12) and working one round of sc around. Fasten off and weave in ends. You can also glue or sew a tiny ribbon bow or a small felt buckle shape to the band for extra charm.

Do not stuff the hat. It stays its natural shape when placed on the head.

Hair (Optional but Recommended)

Cut approximately 30 to 40 strands of yarn in your chosen hair color, each about 8 to 10 inches long. Fold each strand in half and use your crochet hook to pull the looped center through a stitch on the doll’s head, then draw both tails through the loop and pull snug — this is a lark’s head knot, the same technique used for fringe. Work your way around the top and sides of the head. Trim and style the hair as desired. For a classic witch look, make the hair long and slightly wild. For a cuter style, trim it into a sleek bob.

Assembling Your Witch Doll

Assembly is where everything comes together, and taking your time here makes an enormous difference in the final result.

Sew the head to the body first, aligning the center of the face with the center front of the body. Use your long yarn tail and tapestry needle to whipstitch all the way around with small, even stitches. Pull firmly but not so tightly that you pucker the fabric.

Pin the arms to the upper sides of the body before sewing to find the perfect placement. They should sit about one to two rows below the neck join. Sew through the flattened top of each arm and into the body, going around the edge several times for a strong join.

Attach the legs to the bottom of the body, positioning them slightly forward so your witch can “sit” if you want her to, or straight down for a standing pose. Stuff any additional fiberfill into the body through the neck opening before you finalize the head attachment.

Place the hat on top of the head, over the hair if you added it, and sew it down with a few stitches at the brim to keep it secure. You do not need to sew all the way around — just a few anchor points will hold it in place while still looking natural.

Making the Broomstick

A tiny broomstick completes the classic witch aesthetic. Find a small twig about 4 to 5 inches long, or cut a wooden skewer to size. Cut about 20 to 25 strands of brown or tan yarn, each about 3 inches long. Bundle them together and tie them around one end of the stick with a tight knot of a contrasting yarn color (this becomes the broom binding). Fan the strands out slightly and trim the ends so they are even. You can also add a few strands of raffia if you have it on hand for a more textured, realistic look. Attach the broom to one of your witch’s hands with a stitch or two, or simply tuck it under her arm.

Tips for a Perfect Amigurumi Finish

A few small habits make a big difference in amigurumi quality. Always use a stitch marker — even experienced makers lose count without one. Work your decreases as invisible decreases rather than standard decreases whenever possible, since they dramatically smooth out the surface of your doll. Stuff your pieces as you go rather than all at once at the end, since it is much easier to achieve even, firm stuffing in stages. And take your time with the face — the placement and expression of the eyes and embroidered details are what give an amigurumi its personality, so try a few arrangements before committing.

When weaving in ends, weave through several stitches in different directions and give the yarn a gentle tug to make sure it is secure before trimming closely.

Saving This Pattern as a PDF

To save this post as a printable PDF for your craft bag or binder, use your browser’s print function (Ctrl+P on Windows or Cmd+P on Mac) and select “Save as PDF” as the destination. You can also use a free browser extension like Print Friendly to remove ads and unnecessary images before saving, giving you a clean, easy-to-read document. Many crafters keep a dedicated binder of their favorite amigurumi patterns organized by season, and this Halloween witch makes a perfect addition to any fall collection.

Variations and Customization Ideas

One of the great joys of amigurumi is how easy it is to personalize a base pattern. Here are a few ideas to spark your creativity.

Change the skin color entirely — a classic green witch is iconic, but a natural skin tone with rosy cheeks gives a storybook feel, and a soft lavender or pale blue creates an otherworldly, fantastical character. Try orange yarn for a pumpkin-witch mashup that is especially fun for Halloween baskets.

Add a tiny stuffed black cat sitting at the witch’s feet by working a simple small-scale amigurumi cat in black yarn using the same basic construction method. The two make a wonderful set.

Embroider a tiny star or moon onto the witch’s dress with metallic gold or silver thread for a touch of sparkle. This is especially striking under holiday lighting.

Make a family of witches in different sizes by going up or down a hook size and adjusting your yarn weight. A big sister, little sister, and tiny baby witch trio is an absolutely irresistible Halloween display.

A Final Word on This Crochet Pattern

This Halloween witch doll crochet pattern is more than just a fun seasonal project — it is the kind of handmade item that becomes a keepsake. Children remember the toys made just for them. Friends remember the gifts that someone sat down and created by hand. And