
7 Dice Drawstring Bag Free Knitting Pattern: A Fun and Functional Project for Every Knitter
If you’ve ever played tabletop role-playing games, board games, or any hobby that requires a collection of dice, you know the struggle of keeping them organized. Dice end up scattered across tables, lost in couch cushions, and rattling around in the bottom of bags. A handmade drawstring bag is the perfect solution — and knitting one yourself adds a personal, crafted touch that no store-bought pouch can replicate. This free knitting pattern for a 7 dice drawstring bag is designed to hold a standard RPG dice set (the classic d4, d6, d8, d10, d10 percentile, d12, and d20), making it ideal for dungeon masters, board game enthusiasts, or anyone who wants a charming little knitted pouch for small treasures.
This pattern is beginner-friendly, works up quickly, and requires minimal materials. Whether you’re a seasoned knitter looking for a fun weekend project or someone just moving past their first scarf, this bag is a wonderful skill-builder that you’ll actually use. Let’s dive into everything you need to know.
Why Knit a Dice Bag?
Before we get into the pattern itself, it’s worth talking about why a knitted dice bag is such a satisfying project. First, it’s small. Unlike a sweater or blanket, this bag can be completed in a few hours or over the course of a couple of evenings, which makes it incredibly rewarding for knitters who crave that sense of completion. Second, it’s highly customizable. You can use yarn in your favorite colors, your character’s signature hues, or the colors of your gaming group. Third, it’s genuinely useful. A snug drawstring bag with a bit of natural give from the knitted fabric protects dice from scratching and keeps them gathered in one place.
There’s also something magical about handing a fellow gamer a dice bag you made by hand. It’s a gift that communicates both creativity and care, and it costs very little to make.
Materials You’ll Need
One of the best things about this pattern is how minimal the supply list is. Here’s what you’ll need to gather before you cast on:
Yarn: Approximately 50–75 yards of worsted weight yarn (Category 4). This is about half a skein or less of most standard skeins, which means you can easily use yarn from your stash. Any fiber works well — wool gives the bag a bit of natural stretch and structure, cotton creates a firmer bag that holds its shape, and acrylic is durable and machine washable. For a first attempt, a smooth yarn in a solid color is easiest because it lets you see your stitches clearly.
Needles: US size 7 (4.5mm) double-pointed needles (DPNs), a set of four or five. You can also use a short circular needle (9 or 12 inches) if you prefer magic loop or a small circular method. If you’re a loose knitter, try a size 6; if you’re a tight knitter, try a size 8. Gauge isn’t critical for this project, but tension affects the final size, so adjust accordingly.
Notions: A yarn needle for weaving in ends, scissors, a stitch marker, and about 24 inches of cord, ribbon, or I-cord for the drawstring. You can knit your own I-cord drawstring with leftover yarn, which gives the bag a fully coordinated look.
Gauge: Approximately 18–20 stitches over 4 inches in stockinette stitch. Again, gauge isn’t critical here, but if your bag is coming out much smaller than the finished measurements below, go up a needle size.
Finished Measurements: The finished bag measures approximately 4 inches wide and 5 inches tall (before the drawstring channel), which is just right for a standard 7-piece polyhedral dice set. If you want a larger bag, simply cast on more stitches and add more rounds.
Pattern Notes and Abbreviations
Before starting, here are the abbreviations used throughout this pattern:
CO = Cast on, K = Knit, P = Purl, K2tog = Knit two stitches together (a right-leaning decrease), SSK = Slip, slip, knit (a left-leaning decrease), PM = Place marker, SM = Slip marker, Rnd = Round, RS = Right side, YO = Yarn over, Rep = Repeat, St(s) = Stitch(es)
This bag is worked in the round from the bottom up. The base is closed with a simple gathered cast-on method (no seaming required), and the top features a simple eyelet round for the drawstring. This pattern is written for knitting in the round on double-pointed needles, but notes are included for magic loop.
The Pattern: 7 Dice Drawstring Bag
Step 1: Cast On and Begin the Base
Using your preferred cast-on method, CO 36 stitches. If you’re using DPNs, distribute the stitches evenly across three or four needles (12 stitches per needle if using three, or 9 stitches per needle if using four). Join to work in the round, being careful not to twist your stitches. Place a stitch marker to indicate the beginning of the round.
If you prefer to avoid the twisted-join problem, you can work the first two rounds flat and then join — just seam those two rows when you weave in your ends.
Rounds 1–4: Knit all stitches. (36 sts)
These first rounds form the base of the bag. When you finish, the knitting will look like a small flat circle or tube. This is correct — the bottom will be closed in a moment.
Closing the Base:
After completing Round 4, cut a tail of about 12 inches. Thread the tail onto your yarn needle. Remove the stitches from your knitting needles, threading the yarn needle through each stitch as you remove it. Once all stitches are on the yarn, pull the tail firmly to cinch the base closed. Push the needle through to the inside of the bag and secure with a knot. Weave in this end later.
If you prefer a sturdier base, you can work a few more rounds before closing, or use Judy’s Magic Cast-On to begin with stitches already distributed in the round with no hole at the bottom.
Step 2: Knit the Body
Rejoin your yarn (or simply continue if you haven’t cut it) and pick up 36 stitches around the closed base. Alternatively, CO 36 stitches using the long-tail method and join in the round as described above, leaving the base open to be closed after the fact — either method works.
Body Rounds 1–30: Knit every round. (36 sts)
That’s it for the main body — just 30 rounds of plain stockinette in the round. This straightforward approach creates a smooth, stretchy tube that shows off the yarn color beautifully. The simplicity is intentional, making this a perfect project for knitting while watching a movie or chatting with friends.
If you’d like to add texture, consider these easy variations for the body:
For a ribbed bag, alternate K2, P2 for every round. This creates a tighter, more structured pouch with lovely vertical texture.
For a seed stitch bag, alternate K1, P1 on round one, then P1, K1 on round two. This creates a bumpy, non-rolling texture that looks especially charming in natural fiber yarns.
For a striped bag, change colors every 5 rounds. Since you’re working in the round, the color changes are seamless and create crisp horizontal bands.
For a colorwork bag, this size is small enough to accommodate a simple two-color motif using stranded knitting. A small repeating motif like diamonds, stars, or geometric shapes adds an impressive look for a minimal investment of technique.
Step 3: Create the Drawstring Channel
The drawstring channel is worked with a simple eyelet round sandwiched between two rounds of purl stitches, which creates a visual break and a tidy channel for the cord.
Round 31: Purl all stitches. (36 sts)
Round 32 (Eyelet Round): K2, YO, K2tog — repeat from to to end of round. (36 sts — the yarn overs replace the decreased stitches, so stitch count remains the same)
This creates 9 evenly spaced eyelets around the bag. Your drawstring will be threaded through these holes.
Round 33: Purl all stitches. (36 sts)
The two purl rounds frame the eyelets and create a slight ridge that reinforces the drawstring channel. This is both functional and decorative.
Step 4: Knit the Cuff
After the drawstring channel, work a small cuff that will fold over the top of the bag when the drawstring is pulled closed. This cuff adds a finished look and helps the bag stay neatly closed.
Rounds 34–40: Knit all stitches. (36 sts)
Seven rounds of stockinette create a cuff about an inch tall. If you’d like a longer cuff, simply add more rounds here.
Bind Off: Using a stretchy bind-off method, bind off all 36 stitches. The best stretchy bind-off for this project is the standard bind-off worked very loosely, or the “knit 2, pass the first over” method done with needle a size or two larger than you’ve been knitting with. A stretchy bind-off matters here because the cuff needs to open wide enough to reach in and grab your dice.
Step 5: Add the Drawstring
You have several options for the drawstring:
Option 1 — Store-bought cord or ribbon: Cut a length of satin ribbon, leather cord, suede lace, or decorative cord to approximately 20–24 inches. Using a yarn needle, blunt tapestry needle, or even a bobby pin, thread the cord through the eyelets all the way around the bag. Tie the ends in a knot or bow.
Option 2 — Knitted I-cord: Using two double-pointed needles and leftover yarn (or a contrasting color for a fun pop), cast on 3 stitches. Knit 3, then without turning your work, slide the stitches to the other end of the needle and knit again, pulling the yarn snugly across the back. Repeat this for about 20 inches. Bind off and thread through the eyelets as above. I-cord drawstrings have a beautiful handmade quality and coordinate perfectly with the bag.
Option 3 — Braided or twisted cord: Cut three lengths of yarn about 60 inches long. Fold each in half and braid or twist them together until you have a cord of about 20 inches. Knot the ends to secure. This creates a chunky, rustic drawstring with real character.
Step 6: Finishing
Weave in all remaining ends using your yarn needle. Give the bag a gentle blocking if desired — particularly if you used wool — by wetting it, gently squeezing out excess water, reshaping it, and laying it flat to dry. Blocking evens out the stitches and gives the bag a more polished, professional finish. For cotton or acrylic yarn, blocking is less critical but can still improve the drape and appearance.
Fill the bag with your 7 dice set, pull the drawstring closed, and admire your work.
Tips for Customizing Your Dice Bag
One of the great joys of knitting your own accessories is the freedom to personalize every detail. Here are some ideas for making this pattern uniquely yours.
Color story: Match the bag to your tabletop character. A brooding warlock deserves a deep purple or midnight blue bag. A cheerful bard might carry a bright teal or sunshine yellow pouch. A stoic paladin could use cream with gold accents. The yarn color tells a story before the first die is ever rolled.
Embellishments: After finishing the bag, you can add embroidered details — a simple star, a rune, or an initial worked in duplicate stitch or surface embroidery. Small buttons, charms, or beads can be sewn onto the cuff for decoration. A tassel made from leftover yarn adds a festive flair.
Sizing up: To make a bag that holds two or more dice sets, simply increase your cast-on to 48 stitches and add 15 more rounds to the body. The eyelet round formula adjusts easily — just make sure your eyelet repeat divides evenly into your stitch count.
Lining: For a more polished bag that protects especially precious dice, cut a small piece of felt or fabric to line the inside. A few hand stitches secure the lining without any sewing machine required.
Gifting Ideas
A handmade dice bag makes a wonderful gift for the gamer in your life — and because it works up so quickly, you can easily make several at once in a production-line style (cast them all on, work through the body rounds, then finish them off one by one). Consider making a personalized set for every member of your gaming group, each in a different color so everyone’s dice bag is easy to identify on the table.
These bags also make beautiful gifts for children learning to play games, for teachers who use dice in their classrooms, or for anyone who collects small treasures like gemstones, crystals, or jewelry. The pattern is so versatile that the finished bag transcends its original purpose.
Troubleshooting Common Issues
The bag is too tight or too small: Try going up one needle size. Even half a millimeter can make a noticeable difference in gauge and finished size.
The base has a small hole: This is common when knitting in the round from a cast-on. Thread a yarn tail through the hole and pull it snug, then weave in the end carefully. Alternatively, use Judy’s Magic Cast-On, which eliminates this problem entirely.
The stitches at the base look loose or uneven: This is a tension issue common when knitting the first few rounds on DPNs. It tends to even out as you go, and blocking afterward smooths out most unevenness.
The drawstring won’t thread through the eyelets easily: Make sure your yarn-overs in the eyelet round were actually worked as overs and not twisted. If the holes are still small, try a thinner drawstring or use a bobby pin instead of a tapestry needle to thread it through.
Final Thoughts
This 7 dice drawstring bag free knitting pattern is exactly the kind of project that reminds you why you love knitting in the first place. It’s fast, fun, functional, and completely customizable. Whether you’re making it for yourself, for a friend, or as a last-minute gift, the finished bag carries a warmth that mass-produced pouches simply can’t match.
The pattern itself is flexible enough to grow with you as a knitter. Start with plain stockinette and a solid color, then work your way up to stripes, texture stitches, or even simple colorwork as your skills and confidence build. Each bag you make will be a little different from the last — a reflection of the yarn you chose, the hands that made it, and the adventures it will accompany.
Cast on, roll for initiative, and enjoy the making.