Easy Drawstring Pouch Free Crochet Pattern
There is something deeply satisfying about crocheting a small project that you can finish in a single afternoon and immediately put to use. The drawstring pouch is exactly that kind of project — practical, quick, and endlessly customizable. Whether you are brand new to crochet or you have been crocheting for years, this easy drawstring pouch pattern is the kind of thing you will come back to again and again. You can make one to hold your earbuds, another to keep your crystals organized, one as a gift bag, and another to stash your spare change. The possibilities are genuinely endless, and the best part is that this pattern is completely free.
In this post, I am going to walk you through everything you need to know to crochet your own drawstring pouch from start to finish. I will cover the materials you need, the stitches used, the step-by-step instructions, tips for customizing the size, and ideas for how to use your finished pouch. So grab your hook and your favorite yarn, and let’s get started.
Why You’ll Love This Drawstring Pouch Pattern
Before we dive into the actual pattern, let me tell you a little bit about why this particular design has become such a staple in my crochet rotation.
First, it works up fast. Most pouches of a standard size — think palm-sized, perfect for a little gift or a coin purse — take less than two hours to complete. If you are using bulky yarn, you can knock one out in about 45 minutes. That makes this pattern perfect for last-minute gifts, charity donations, craft fairs, or just a relaxing evening project.
Second, it uses very little yarn. This is an excellent stash-buster. If you have leftover yarn from bigger projects, those small balls that are not quite enough for anything substantial are absolutely perfect for this pouch. You can even make striped versions using multiple colors, and each stripe only uses a few yards.
Third, the pattern is beginner-friendly. The body of the pouch is worked in simple single crochet stitches in the round. There is no complicated shaping, no tricky stitch counts to track, and no confusing pattern repeats. If you can chain, single crochet, and work in a magic ring or chain ring, you have everything you need.
Finally, the finished pouch is genuinely beautiful and useful. With the right yarn and a little care, these pouches look handmade in the best possible way. They make thoughtful gifts, and people always ask where you bought them when they see them sitting on your shelf.
Materials You Will Need
One of the best things about this pattern is how minimal the supply list is. Here is everything you need to gather before you start.
Yarn: This pattern works with any weight of yarn, which is part of what makes it so versatile. For a small coin-purse style pouch, worsted weight yarn is ideal and gives you a sturdy, structured result. For a softer, more delicate pouch — perfect for jewelry or as a sachet — a DK or fingering weight yarn gives a lovely result. For a chunky, rustic drawstring bag, try bulky or super bulky yarn. You will need approximately 50 to 100 yards for a small pouch, and up to 200 yards for a medium bag depending on your yarn weight and the size you want to make.
Crochet Hook: Match your hook size to your yarn. A good general guideline is a 5mm (H/8) hook for worsted weight yarn, a 3.5mm (E/4) hook for DK weight, and a 6mm or larger hook for bulky yarn. That said, gauge is not critical for this project. The pouch will simply be a little larger or smaller depending on your tension, so use whatever hook feels comfortable to you with your chosen yarn.
Scissors: A small, sharp pair for cutting your yarn ends.
Tapestry Needle: For weaving in your ends once the pouch is finished.
Stitch Marker: Optional but helpful for keeping track of the beginning of each round when working in the round.
Drawstring Cord: This can be a length of ribbon, a purchased cord, a strand of leather lace, or even a chain of crochet stitches in the same or contrasting yarn. You will need a length approximately twice the circumference of your pouch opening, plus a few extra inches for tying a bow or knot.
Abbreviations Used in This Pattern
This pattern uses standard US crochet abbreviations.
ch — chain
sl st — slip stitch
sc — single crochet
sc2tog — single crochet two together (a decrease stitch)
MR — magic ring (also called a magic circle)
st — stitch
sts — stitches
rnd — round
Gauge
Gauge is not critical for this project. As a general reference, working in single crochet with worsted weight yarn and a 5mm hook, 14 stitches and 16 rows equals approximately 4 inches (10 cm). Your finished pouch will simply be proportionally larger or smaller depending on your gauge and yarn weight.
Pattern Notes
This pouch is worked in continuous rounds from the bottom up. Unless otherwise noted, do not join at the end of each round — simply continue working in a spiral. Place a stitch marker at the beginning of each round and move it up as you work to keep your place.
The drawstring channel is created by working a row of chain spaces near the top of the pouch, and the drawstring is threaded through those spaces once the pouch is finished.
This pattern is written for a small pouch approximately 4 inches wide and 4 inches tall, made with worsted weight yarn and a 5mm hook. Instructions for sizing up or down are included at the end of the pattern.
Step-by-Step Pattern Instructions
Foundation: Starting the Base
Round 1: Make a magic ring. Ch 1 (does not count as a stitch). Work 6 sc into the magic ring. Pull the tail to close the ring. Place a stitch marker in the last stitch to mark the beginning of your rounds. (6 sts)
Round 2: Work 2 sc in each stitch around. (12 sts)
Round 3: Sc 1, 2 sc in next st. Repeat from to around. (18 sts)
Round 4: Sc 2, 2 sc in next st. Repeat from to around. (24 sts)
Round 5: Sc 3, 2 sc in next st. Repeat from to around. (30 sts)
Round 6: Sc 4, 2 sc in next st. Repeat from to around. (36 sts)
At the end of Round 6, you should have a flat circular base with 36 stitches. If you want a larger pouch, you can continue adding rounds to the base in the same pattern — each additional round adds 6 stitches. For a smaller pouch, stop at Round 4 or 5.
Building the Walls
Now you will begin working in the back loops only for one round to create a crisp edge where the base meets the sides of the pouch. This step is optional but gives the pouch a more structured, defined bottom.
Round 7 (Turning Round): Working in back loops only, sc in each stitch around. (36 sts)
From Round 8 onward, work through both loops as usual.
Rounds 8 through 20: Sc in each stitch around. (36 sts each round)
This gives you approximately 4 inches of height on the walls of the pouch. Work more or fewer rounds depending on how tall you want your pouch to be. Keep in mind that the drawstring channel will add a small amount of additional height at the top.
Creating the Drawstring Channel
The drawstring channel is worked by alternating chain spaces with single crochet stitches. This creates evenly spaced eyelets through which you will thread your drawstring cord.
Round 21: Sc 1, ch 2, skip 2 sts. Repeat from to around, ending with a sl st to the first sc of the round to join. (12 ch-2 spaces)
Note that this is one of the few rounds where you join with a slip stitch rather than working in a continuous spiral. This keeps the channel neat and even.
Round 22: Ch 1, sc in each stitch and 2 sc in each ch-2 space around. Join with sl st to first sc. (36 sts)
Rounds 23 and 24: Ch 1, sc in each stitch around. Join with sl st to first sc at the end of each round.
Finishing: Fasten off and weave in all ends using your tapestry needle.
Threading the Drawstring
Cut a length of cord, ribbon, or yarn approximately 24 to 30 inches long for a palm-sized pouch (adjust for larger sizes). If you are using yarn as your drawstring, you can either fold a long strand in half and use it doubled for extra strength, or crochet a chain of approximately 60 to 70 stitches and use that as your cord.
Attach a safety pin or a small piece of tape to one end of your drawstring to use as a makeshift needle. Starting at any eyelet in Round 21, thread the drawstring in and out through each of the 12 ch-2 spaces all the way around the pouch until you come back out through the starting eyelet. Pull both ends of the cord to gather the top of the pouch, and tie a bow or knot to secure it.
If you want two drawstrings for a more secure closure — particularly useful for larger bags — cut two lengths of cord. Thread the first one all the way around starting from the left side of the pouch. Thread the second one all the way around starting from the right side. When you pull and tie both cords, they will cinch the pouch closed from both directions.
Finishing Touches
Take a moment to weave in all your ends securely. For a pouch that will be used often, it is worth weaving your ends through several stitches in different directions to make sure they will not work loose over time.
If your yarn is a natural fiber like cotton, linen, or wool, you may want to lightly block your finished pouch. Simply wet it with cool water, gently squeeze out the excess (do not wring), and reshape it over a rounded form — a small bowl works perfectly — and allow it to dry flat. Blocking softens the fabric, opens up the stitch work, and helps the pouch hold a beautiful shape.
Sizing Up or Down
One of the most useful things about this pattern is how easy it is to adjust the size. Here are a few quick guidelines.
For a tiny pouch (perfect for jewelry, a tooth fairy gift, or a small sachet), use fingering weight yarn with a 2.25mm to 3mm hook. Work only through Round 3 or 4 for the base, and work 10 to 12 rounds for the walls before creating the drawstring channel. You will end up with a sweet little pouch about 2 inches across.
For a medium bag (great for a cosmetics bag, a crochet hook case, or a project bag for small accessories), use bulky weight yarn with a 6mm to 8mm hook. Continue the base increases through Round 9 or 10 (ending with 60 to 66 stitches), and work 15 or more rounds for the walls. This creates a bag that is roughly 7 to 9 inches across — large enough to be genuinely useful as an everyday bag.
For a large market bag or gift bag, use super bulky yarn and a large hook, work a wide base, and simply keep going with the wall rounds until your bag is as deep as you want it to be. The drawstring channel works exactly the same way at any size — just make sure you have enough eyelets to accommodate the cord going in and out all the way around.
Customization Ideas
Plain single crochet makes a beautiful, clean-textured fabric, but there are so many ways to make this pattern your own.
Stripes are the easiest customization. Simply change colors at the beginning of any round to create horizontal stripes. You can carry the unused color up the inside of the work if the stripes are only one or two rounds wide, or fasten off and rejoin for wider stripes.
Textured stitches can replace the plain single crochet in the wall section. Half double crochet gives a slightly taller, softer fabric. A moss stitch (also called a granite stitch) — alternating single crochet and chain-one spaces — creates a lovely open texture that is especially pretty in a fine cotton yarn. A simple bobble or puff stitch accent row adds a playful, dimensional touch.
Embellishments can be added after the fact. A small crocheted flower or leaf stitched to the front of the pouch dresses it up for gifting. Wooden beads threaded onto the ends of the drawstring add weight and a beautiful finishing detail. Embroidery worked in a contrasting thread can add initials, a small motif, or a simple border.
Ideas for Using Your Finished Pouch
Once you have made one of these pouches, you will start seeing uses for them everywhere. Here are some favorite ideas to inspire you.
A set of coordinating pouches in different sizes makes a beautiful and practical gift for someone who likes to stay organized. Fill one with bath salts or dried lavender for a spa-inspired gift. Use one as a jewelry roll for travel by placing a small piece of felt or velvet inside to protect delicate pieces. Keep one by the front door to hold your keys and spare change. Gift a handmade pouch filled with chocolates or small sweets as a party favor or holiday gift. Use a larger version as a knitting or crochet notions pouch to hold your stitch markers, tapestry needles, and scissors.
A Few Final Tips for Beginners
If this is one of your first crochet projects worked in the round, here are a few things that will make the process smoother.
Always use a stitch marker at the beginning of each round. It is easy to lose count when working in a spiral, and the stitch marker saves you from having to recount all the time.
Keep your tension even but not too tight. A common beginner habit is to pull the yarn too tight, which makes the fabric stiff and makes it hard to insert your hook into the stitches. Aim for a fabric that has a little give to it but is not so loose that it looks floppy.
Do not be discouraged if your base curls up slightly. This is normal with single crochet, especially in the first few rounds. The back-loop-only round (Round 7) helps counteract this, and once the walls start building up, the base will naturally flatten out.
Take your time weaving in ends. It is the least glamorous part of any crochet project, but it makes a real difference in how polished and long-lasting your finished pouch will be.
There you have it — a complete, free crochet pattern for an easy drawstring pouch that you can make in an afternoon and use for years to come. Whether you make one for yourself or a dozen as gifts, I hope this project brings you as much enjoyment as it has brought me. Happy crocheting!
