Amigurumi Pig Free Pattern: Your Complete Guide to Crocheting an Adorable Stuffed Piggy
There is something undeniably charming about a chubby little crocheted pig. With its rosy snout, floppy ears, and curly tail, an amigurumi pig has a way of melting hearts the moment it comes off the hook. Whether you are a seasoned crocheter looking for a quick weekend project or a beginner eager to try your first amigurumi animal, this free pattern is designed to walk you through every single step with clarity and confidence.
This amigurumi pig free pattern will produce a finished toy that sits comfortably in the palm of your hand — roughly 4 to 5 inches tall depending on your yarn weight and hook size. It makes a wonderful gift for babies, toddlers, and anyone who simply loves handmade things. Best of all, it uses only basic crochet stitches, so if you know how to magic ring, single crochet, increase, and decrease, you have everything you need to get started.
Pull up a chair, grab your favorite pink yarn, and let’s make something sweet together.
Materials You Will Need
Before diving into the pattern itself, let’s gather everything you need. Having your materials ready before you begin will make the whole process smoother and more enjoyable.
Yarn: Worsted weight yarn in dusty rose or baby pink for the body, ears, and limbs. You will also need a small amount of dark pink or mauve for the snout. Approximately 100 to 150 yards of main color is plenty for one pig.
Hook: A 3.5mm or 4mm crochet hook works beautifully with worsted weight yarn. If you tend to crochet loosely, go down a hook size to keep the stuffing from showing through the stitches.
Safety eyes: Two 9mm or 12mm black safety eyes. If you are making this pig for a child under three years old, embroider the eyes with black yarn instead to eliminate any choking hazard.
Polyfill stuffing: You will need enough to firmly stuff the body, head, and snout. A well-stuffed amigurumi holds its shape much better and looks more polished.
Yarn needle: For sewing pieces together and weaving in ends.
Stitch marker: To mark the beginning of each round. This is essential in amigurumi, since the rounds are worked in a continuous spiral.
Scissors: Sharp scissors for clean yarn cuts.
Pink or blush embroidery floss (optional): For adding rosy cheeks to give your pig extra personality.
Wire or pipe cleaner (optional): For creating the curly tail. You can also simply twist the yarn tightly and let it coil on its own.
Abbreviations Used in This Pattern
This pattern is written using standard US crochet terminology.
MR — Magic ring
ch — Chain
sl st — Slip stitch
sc — Single crochet
inc — Increase (two single crochets in the same stitch)
dec — Invisible decrease (insert hook through the front loops of two consecutive stitches and complete as a single crochet)
BLO — Back loop only
FLO — Front loop only
st(s) — Stitch(es)
rnd — Round
rep — Repeat
Gauge and Sizing
Gauge matters in amigurumi because it affects the density of your fabric. You want tight, closed stitches so the stuffing does not peek through. A rough gauge of 4 stitches and 4 rows per inch in single crochet with worsted weight yarn and a 3.5mm hook is a good target. That said, amigurumi patterns are forgiving — small differences in gauge will simply produce a slightly larger or smaller pig, which is perfectly fine.
The finished pig using the materials listed above will measure approximately 4.5 inches from snout to rump and 3.5 inches tall when seated.
Special Techniques
The Magic Ring: All pieces in this pattern begin with a magic ring. If you are not familiar with this technique, it allows you to start crocheting in the round without leaving a hole in the center of your work. There are countless video tutorials available online that demonstrate it clearly — it is well worth learning before you begin.
Working in a Continuous Spiral: Unlike some crochet projects worked in joined rounds, amigurumi is typically worked in a continuous spiral. This means you do not join at the end of each round or chain up. Instead, you simply continue crocheting and use a stitch marker to keep track of where each round begins.
The Invisible Decrease: Regular decreases in single crochet can leave a visible bump on the surface of your work. The invisible decrease is a slight modification that gives you a much neater finish. Rather than inserting your hook through both loops of two consecutive stitches, you insert through only the front loops of those two stitches before completing the decrease.
Pattern Instructions
Head and Body (worked in one piece, starting from the top of the head)
Rnd 1: MR, 6 sc into ring. (6 sts)
Rnd 2: Inc in each st around. (12 sts)
Rnd 3: Sc 1, inc rep around. (18 sts)
Rnd 4: Sc 2, inc rep around. (24 sts)
Rnd 5: Sc 3, inc rep around. (30 sts)
Rnd 6: Sc 4, inc rep around. (36 sts)
Rnd 7: Sc 5, inc rep around. (42 sts)
Rnds 8–14: Sc in each st around. (42 sts) — 7 rounds even
This is a good point to attach your safety eyes. Position them between rounds 10 and 11, with approximately 8 to 10 stitches between them. Secure the washers on the inside before continuing.
Rnd 15: Sc 5, dec rep around. (36 sts)
Rnd 16: Sc 4, dec rep around. (30 sts)
Rnd 17: Sc 3, dec rep around. (24 sts)
Begin stuffing the head firmly at this point. Continue adding stuffing as you decrease.
Rnd 18: Sc 2, dec rep around. (18 sts)
Now, rather than closing off the head, you are going to continue building the body directly from here, which creates a nicely integrated look.
Rnd 19: Sc 2, inc rep around. (24 sts)
Rnd 20: Sc 3, inc rep around. (30 sts)
Rnd 21: Sc 4, inc rep around. (36 sts)
Rnd 22: Sc 5, inc rep around. (42 sts)
Rnds 23–30: Sc in each st around. (42 sts) — 8 rounds even
Rnd 31: Sc 5, dec rep around. (36 sts)
Rnd 32: Sc 4, dec rep around. (30 sts)
Rnd 33: Sc 3, dec rep around. (24 sts)
Stuff the body firmly now, making sure the bottom is flat enough that your pig can sit without toppling over.
Rnd 34: Sc 2, dec rep around. (18 sts)
Rnd 35: Sc 1, dec rep around. (12 sts)
Rnd 36: Dec rep around. (6 sts)
Fasten off, leaving a short tail. Use your yarn needle to close the remaining hole by running the tail through the front loops of all 6 remaining stitches and pulling tight. Weave in the end.
Snout
Rnd 1: MR, 6 sc. (6 sts)
Rnd 2: Inc in each st. (12 sts)
Rnd 3: Sc 1, inc rep around. (18 sts)
Rnd 4: Sc in BLO around. (18 sts)
Rnd 5: Sc in each st around. (18 sts)
Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Lightly stuff the snout — you want it to have a little dimension without being overly puffy. Using dark pink or mauve yarn and a yarn needle, embroider two small oval nostrils on the front of the snout. Then sew the snout to the face, centered just below the eyes, roughly at round 13 of the head.
Ears (make 2)
Rnd 1: MR, 6 sc. (6 sts)
Rnd 2: Inc in each st. (12 sts)
Rnd 3: Sc 1, inc rep around. (18 sts)
Rnd 4: Sc in each st around. (18 sts)
Fold the ear in half so the two edges meet and slip stitch across to close. Do not stuff the ears. Fasten off, leaving a long tail. Sew the ears to the top of the head at rounds 3 to 5, positioned slightly toward the sides.
Front Legs (make 2)
Rnd 1: MR, 6 sc. (6 sts)
Rnd 2: Inc in each st. (12 sts)
Rnd 3: Sc in BLO around. (12 sts) — this creates a subtle ridge at the hoof line
Rnds 4–10: Sc in each st around. (12 sts)
Stuff lightly. Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Flatten the top of the leg and sew closed. Attach to the sides of the body at approximately rounds 23 to 24, positioned toward the front.
Back Legs (make 2)
Rnd 1: MR, 6 sc. (6 sts)
Rnd 2: Inc in each st. (12 sts)
Rnd 3: Sc 1, inc rep around. (18 sts)
Rnd 4: Sc in BLO around. (18 sts)
Rnds 5–8: Sc in each st around. (18 sts)
Rnd 9: Sc 1, dec rep around. (12 sts)
Stuff firmly. Fasten off, leaving a long tail. The back legs are slightly chunkier than the front legs, giving the pig a cute, well-balanced silhouette. Sew them to the bottom sides of the body at approximately rounds 29 to 31.
Tail
Cut a length of yarn about 12 inches long. Fold it in half and use a crochet hook to pull the folded loop through a stitch at the back of the pig’s body near round 29. Pull the tail ends through the loop to secure it. Then, using your fingers or a yarn needle, twist the yarn tightly in one direction until it begins to coil back on itself. Tie a small knot at the end to hold the curl in place and trim neatly. The result is an adorable little corkscrew tail.
Assembly Tips
Assembling your amigurumi pig is half the fun and also where you can really let your personality shine. Here are a few tips that will make your finished pig look as polished as possible.
Always leave long tails when fastening off your pieces — at least 10 to 12 inches. This gives you plenty of yarn to work with when sewing pieces on without having to splice in extra. Use the same yarn as the piece you are attaching, and sew through both the piece and the body in a looping motion, working all the way around the edge. Pull your stitches snug but not so tight that the fabric puckers.
Positioning is everything in amigurumi. Before you sew anything permanently, pin your pieces in place with straight pins and step back to look at your pig from a distance. Small adjustments in ear angle or eye placement can make a surprising difference in the character’s expression. A pig with ears placed slightly forward looks alert and curious. Ears placed further back give a more relaxed, sleepy expression.
If you would like to add blush to your pig’s cheeks, a small amount of pink or coral chalk-based makeup blush applied with a cotton swab works beautifully. Apply it in soft circular motions on the cheeks, just beside the snout.
Finishing Touches and Variations
Once your pig is fully assembled, take a moment to fluff up the stuffing by gently squeezing and reshaping the body and head. If any area feels flat or lumpy, you can usually redistribute the stuffing by working it with your fingers from the outside.
This pattern is a wonderful base for all kinds of creative variations. Here are a few ideas to inspire you.
Sleeping Pig: Instead of safety eyes, embroider curved lines with black thread to suggest closed eyes. Add long eyelashes with a few straight stitches for a dreamy, sleeping expression.
Piglet Toy Set: Make three or four pigs in different sizes by adjusting your yarn weight. Use bulky yarn for a mama pig and sport weight yarn for tiny piglets. The increase and decrease counts stay the same — only the size changes.
Holiday Pig: Crochet a tiny Santa hat in red and white yarn and stitch it to your pig’s head just behind the ears for a festive Christmas ornament or gift topper.
Spotted Pig: Use a variegated pink and white yarn, or switch between two pink tones every few rounds, to create a pig with natural-looking color variation.
Fairy Tale Pig: Crochet a little bundle of yarn sticks and attach it to one of the front legs for a nod to the classic Three Little Pigs story. Perfect for children who love imaginative play.
Caring for Your Amigurumi Pig
If you are gifting this pig to a child, durability and washability are important. Use a machine-washable yarn such as acrylic or a cotton-acrylic blend so the toy can be laundered easily. Avoid wool unless it is specifically labeled as superwash, as wool can felt and shrink in the wash.
For spot cleaning, a damp cloth with a tiny drop of mild soap works well for removing small marks. If the whole toy needs washing, place it inside a mesh laundry bag and wash on a gentle cold cycle. Reshape the pig while it is damp and allow it to air dry completely before use.
Over time, the polyfill stuffing inside the pig may compress and shift. If this happens, you can carefully open one of the seam areas with a seam ripper, add more stuffing, and sew it closed again. This is easy to do and can breathe new life into a beloved toy.
Why Amigurumi Pigs Make the Perfect Project
There is a reason pigs appear so often in the world of amigurumi. Their round bodies, simple shapes, and expressive faces make them ideal for the medium. Unlike animals with complex features — antlers, wings, long beaks — a pig comes together beautifully with just a handful of pieces. The result is always charming, and the project moves quickly enough to keep you motivated from start to finish.
Pigs also carry a lot of cultural warmth. They are symbols of good luck in many traditions, making them wonderful gifts for birthdays, housewarmings, and new beginnings. A handmade amigurumi pig is the kind of gift that people keep for years, displayed on a shelf or tucked into a beloved corner of a child’s room.
If this is your first amigurumi project, completing a pig will give you all the foundational skills you need to tackle any animal pattern that catches your eye next — a bunny, a bear, an elephant. The techniques are the same; only the shapes change.
Final Thoughts
Crocheting an amigurumi pig is one of those projects that delivers pure joy from the first round to the last. There is something deeply satisfying about watching a ball of yarn transform, stitch by stitch, into a little creature with its own personality and charm. Whether you follow this pattern exactly or use it as a springboard for your own variations, we hope you enjoy every moment of making it.
If you try this amigurumi pig free
