Mandala Maryam 🌿 Crochet Doily Tutorial – Rounds 23–24 | 38 Rounds Detailed Pattern

Welcome back, fiber artists and crochet lovers! If you’ve been following along with the Mandala Maryam series, you already know how magical this doily is becoming round by round. Today we’re diving deep into Rounds 23 and 24, two of the most satisfying sections in the entire 38-round journey. Whether you’re joining us mid-project or have been stitching along since the very first round, this post is packed with everything you need — stitch-by-stitch guidance, tips for keeping your tension even, notes on thread selection, and encouragement to push through whenever the lace feels a little tricky.

If you’re new to the Mandala Maryam Crochet Doily, let me give you a quick introduction before we get into the pattern details.

What Is the Mandala Maryam Crochet Doily?

The Mandala Maryam is a stunning 38-round crochet doily inspired by the geometric elegance of mandala art and the delicate beauty of traditional lace. Its name carries a soft, feminine energy, and every round you complete brings more of that beauty to the surface. The design builds outward from a tight center ring, expanding through a series of shells, chains, picots, clusters, and joining techniques that create a layered, floral motif with a rich texture.

At completion, the Mandala Maryam typically measures between 40 and 50 centimeters in diameter, depending on the thread weight and hook size you’re using. It makes a gorgeous centerpiece for a dining table, a dresser topper, a framed textile art piece, or even a beautiful gift for someone who appreciates handmade beauty.

The full 38-round pattern is being shared in a series of detailed blog posts, and in this installment we’re focusing on Rounds 23 and 24. These two rounds introduce some nuanced techniques that are worth slowing down for, so make yourself a cup of tea and get your hook ready.

Materials You’ll Need

Before we jump in, let’s make sure you have everything at hand for this session:

Thread: Size 10 crochet cotton thread is the most popular choice for this doily. White, ecru, and soft ivory all give a classic look, but don’t be afraid to experiment with dusty rose, sage green, or muted lavender for a more modern aesthetic. If you’ve been working with a specific color throughout the project, continue with the same for consistency.

Hook: A steel crochet hook in size 7 (1.65mm) works beautifully with size 10 thread. If you tend to crochet tightly, go up to a 6 or even a 5. If your tension is naturally loose, stay with the 7 or go down to an 8.

Scissors and tapestry needle: You’ll need these for any finishing touches or if you need to cut and rejoin thread at any point.

Blocking board and pins: Rounds 23 and 24 introduce some larger chain spaces and decorative loops that benefit enormously from blocking. Keep your tools nearby.

Stitch markers: Helpful for marking the beginning of each round, especially as the rounds grow longer and it becomes harder to track your progress at a glance.

A Quick Look Back at Rounds 21 and 22

If you’ve just caught up from the last installment, here’s a brief recap. Rounds 21 and 22 established a delicate mesh-like framework with alternating chain spaces and single crochet joins. These rounds created the scaffolding that Rounds 23 and 24 now build upon. You should have a series of evenly spaced chain loops running around the perimeter, and the piece should be sitting flat without any curling or bunching. If yours is curling slightly, that’s normal at this stage — blocking after completing a few more rounds will resolve that.

Understanding the Structure of Rounds 23 and 24

Round 23 is a shell round. It uses the architecture of the previous mesh to anchor large, decorative fan shells separated by chain bridges. This round dramatically increases the visual complexity of the doily and is one of the “wow” moments in the whole project — when you finish it and lay it flat, the piece will look distinctly more elaborate than it did before.

Round 24 is a connector and picot round. Its job is to unify the shells from Round 23 with delicate picot edging and chain arches, creating the visual rhythm that will carry you through the next several rounds. It’s a slightly shorter round in terms of total stitch count, but it requires careful attention to placement because every join must be precise for the pattern to remain symmetrical.

Together, these two rounds are a satisfying partnership. Shell and picot, volume and refinement.

Abbreviations Used in This Pattern

For the sake of clarity throughout this tutorial, here are the abbreviations we’ll be using:

ch — chain
sl st — slip stitch
sc — single crochet
dc — double crochet
tr — treble crochet
ch-sp — chain space
sp — space
rep — repeat
sk — skip
beg — beginning
st — stitch
RS — right side

All stitches are standard US crochet terminology.

Round 23 — The Grand Shell Round

Round 23 is worked into the chain spaces established in Round 22. Take a moment to count your chain spaces before beginning. Depending on your starting round count, you should have a consistent number of spaces evenly distributed around the doily. The pattern is based on multiples, so if you’ve maintained your stitch count correctly from the beginning, everything should align perfectly.

Setup: Join your thread (or continue from Round 22 if you haven’t fastened off) with a slip stitch into any chain space from the previous round.

Beginning cluster: Ch 4 (this counts as your first treble crochet), work 4 more tr into the same ch-sp to complete the first half of your opening fan shell. You should have 5 tr total in this space. Ch 3.

Shell sequence: In the next ch-sp, work a full shell of 9 dc. Ch 3. In the following ch-sp, work another 5 tr (full treble fan). Ch 3. Repeat this alternating pattern — 9 dc shell, ch 3, 5 tr fan, ch 3 — all the way around the doily.

As you work, keep your tension consistent. The treble fans and the double crochet shells have slightly different heights, and that natural variation is what gives this round its unique visual texture. Don’t try to force them to look the same — embrace the difference.

Closing the round: When you’ve completed the last 5 tr fan and ch 3, join with a slip stitch to the top of the ch 4 from the beginning of the round. Do not fasten off. You’ll go directly into Round 24.

Tips for Round 23:

The most common issue in shell rounds is crowding. If your shells look pinched or your chain spaces are pulling inward, your tension may be too tight. Try loosening your grip on the hook and letting the thread flow more freely. You can also go up half a hook size for this round alone if needed, then return to your usual size for Round 24.

The other thing to watch is your chain count between shells. Each ch 3 bridge needs to have exactly 3 chains — not 2, not 4. Even one extra or missing chain will throw off the symmetry in Round 24, so count carefully every time.

Round 24 — The Picot Connection Round

If Round 23 is the drama, Round 24 is the grace. This round travels across the tops of the shells you just created, adding picot points and building chain arches that tie everything together.

Setup: Still working from where you left off at the end of Round 23, slip stitch into the ch 3 space between your beg fan and the first dc shell. You are now positioned at the gateway between two major shell motifs.

Picot over dc shell: Sc into the ch 3 space. Ch 5. Skip to the center dc of the 9 dc shell (the 5th dc). Sc into the center dc. Ch 3, sl st into the top of the same sc just worked (this forms your picot). Ch 5. Sc into the ch 3 space on the other side of the shell.

Arch over treble fan: Ch 7. Skip across the entire 5 tr fan (you are bridging over it completely). Sc into the ch 3 space on the far side of the fan.

Repeat: Continue the sequence — picot over shell, arch over fan — all the way around. Each repetition should feel rhythmic once you’ve done two or three.

Closing Round 24: After your last arch, join with a sl st to the first sc of the round. Fasten off and weave in your ends, or continue directly to Round 25 if you’re on a roll.

Tips for Round 24:

The picot in this round is a “ch 3 picot,” which means you chain 3 and then slip stitch into the base stitch to close the little knot. Some crocheters find picots fiddly at first, but the secret is to keep your ch 3 loose — don’t pull the chain tight before making the slip stitch, or the picot will be too small and barely visible. A well-made picot should stand up slightly like a little loop.

The ch 7 arches over the treble fans need to be long enough to lie flat without pulling. If your arch feels too snug, chain 8 instead. The goal is a gentle, relaxed curve.

Blocking Rounds 23 and 24

Before moving on to Round 25, this is an ideal moment to do a partial block. Wet your doily thoroughly, squeeze out the excess water in a clean towel, and pin it to your blocking board.

For Rounds 23 and 24 specifically, focus your pinning on:

The tips of the treble fans — pin each one open so the five stitches spread out like petals. The arches from Round 24 — pin the center of each arch outward to create a graceful bow shape. The picots — give each one a gentle stretch and pin it in place so it stands proud.

Allow the piece to dry completely before unpinning. You will be stunned by the transformation. Blocking turns “nice” into “extraordinary” with lace crochet, and these two rounds are where that magic is especially visible.

Common Questions About These Rounds

What if my stitch count doesn’t match? First, don’t panic. Count the chain spaces in Round 22 again carefully. If you have the correct number of base spaces, your Round 23 should come out right. If you’ve lost or gained a stitch somewhere in an earlier round, it’s worth deciding whether to rip back or to adjust invisibly by spacing your shells slightly differently. For decorative doilies, minor adjustments that maintain visual symmetry are usually preferable to ripping back many rounds.

Can I change colors between these rounds? Absolutely. Many crocheters add a contrast color in Round 23 to make the shells pop. A soft gold, a sage green, or a blush pink can look stunning against a white base. If you change colors, join the new color at the beginning of Round 23 and work that round entirely in the new shade. For Round 24, you can either continue in the same contrast color or return to your base color for a more subtle effect.

What if I’m using a heavier thread weight? If you’re working with size 3 thread instead of size 10, your doily will be significantly larger and the stitches will be much more visible. The pattern instructions remain the same, but your finished diameter will increase. Some people love a chunky, bold doily made in heavier thread — it works beautifully as a table runner topper or a wall hanging.

Staying Motivated Through a 38-Round Project

Let’s be honest: a 38-round doily is a commitment. There will be sessions where you sit down and crank through three rounds with ease, and there will be sessions where you have to force yourself to pick up the hook. Both are completely normal. Here are a few things that help:

Work in sessions with a clear goal. Instead of saying “I’ll crochet today,” try “I’ll complete Round 23 today.” A defined target is far more motivating than an open-ended one.

Celebrate the milestone rounds. Rounds 23 and 24 are legitimately significant — they’re more than halfway through the project, and the doily is starting to look like the finished piece it will become. Take a photo. Share it with your crochet community. Acknowledge the work you’ve done.

Keep your materials organized. Nothing derails momentum like hunting for your hook or running out of thread mid-round. Before each session, check that you have enough thread to complete at least two rounds, and keep your tools in one dedicated spot.

What’s Coming in Rounds 25 and 26

In the next installment of this series, we’ll be working through Rounds 25 and 26, which introduce a new motif element — a cluster stitch that creates small, raised bobbles scattered across the surface of the doily. These bobbles add a wonderful tactile dimension and tie back to the mandala’s geometric origins. It’s one of my favorite sections of the entire pattern, and I can’t wait to walk you through it.

If you’re not already subscribed to the blog or following along on social media, make sure to do that so you don’t miss the next post. The full 38-round pattern is being released section by section, and each post includes full written instructions, tips, and visual guidance.

Final Thoughts on Rounds 23–24

Rounds 23 and 24 of the Mandala Maryam Crochet Doily are two of the most visually rewarding rounds in the whole project. The shift from the mesh of earlier rounds to the bold, structured beauty of the treble fan shells is genuinely exciting, and the addition of picots in Round 24 gives the piece a dainty refinement that feels deeply satisfying to create.

If you’ve completed these rounds, take a moment to appreciate what your hands have made. Every stitch in a handmade doily represents patience, skill, and creativity. The Mandala Maryam is a labor of love, and it shows.

Happy crocheting, and I’ll see you in the next round. 🌿