Sighthound Keyring Crochet Pattern: A Step-by-Step Guide to Making Your Own Greyhound Charm

If you’ve ever shared your life with a greyhound, whippet, or any of the elegant sighthound breeds, you’ll know that the obsession runs deep. These dogs have a way of weaving themselves into every corner of your life — including your craft projects. This sighthound keyring crochet pattern is the perfect way to carry a little piece of your favourite dog everywhere you go, dangling from your keys, your bag, or gifted to a fellow sighthound lover who will absolutely lose their mind over it.

Whether you’re a seasoned crocheter looking for a quick and satisfying weekend project or someone who has just mastered the basics and wants to try their first amigurumi-style figure, this pattern is designed with you in mind. It produces a small, sturdy, adorable charm that captures the long nose, deep chest, and tucked waist that make sighthounds so unmistakable. Let’s get into everything you need to know.

Why a Sighthound Keyring?

Before we dive into the pattern itself, let’s talk about why this particular project is so worth your time.

Sighthound owners are a devoted community. Greyhound rescues, whippet clubs, and lurcher groups around the world are full of people who would treasure a handmade gift that speaks directly to their breed obsession. A crochet sighthound keyring takes only a few hours to make, uses very little yarn, and produces something genuinely charming and unique. You won’t find this exact thing at a supermarket checkout or a pet shop giftware display. That’s the whole point.

From a practical standpoint, these keyrings are also a wonderful way to use up yarn scraps. The finished charm is small — roughly 8 to 10 centimetres in length depending on how tightly you work — so you won’t need more than a small amount of your main colour yarn plus tiny amounts for details. If you’ve been hoarding those little leftovers from bigger projects, this is exactly what they were waiting for.

They also make brilliant fundraising items. Many greyhound and sighthound rescue organisations hold craft sales, and a table full of handmade crochet keyrings in all the natural greyhound colours — brindle, fawn, blue, black, white — tends to attract attention and raise money beautifully.

Materials You Will Need

Getting your materials together before you start will make the whole process smoother. Here is what you’ll need for one sighthound keyring:

Yarn: A small amount of DK weight yarn in your chosen dog colour. Fawn, grey, black, cream, brindle, or a combination if you want to make a parti-coloured lurcher. You’ll need roughly 10 to 15 grams at most for the main body. A tiny amount of black or dark brown for the nose detail, and optionally a contrasting colour for a collar.

Hook: A 2.5mm or 3mm crochet hook. Working tightly is important for amigurumi so that the stuffing doesn’t show through the fabric.

Stuffing: Polyester toy stuffing. A small pinch is all you need. You want the finished charm to be firm but not overstuffed.

Safety eyes: Two black safety eyes, 4mm or 5mm. These give the charm its character. If you’re making this for a young child, you can embroider the eyes instead with black yarn for safety.

Keyring hardware: A split ring keyring, the simple metal kind you can buy in bulk from any craft shop or online. You’ll attach this through a small loop you crochet at the top of the charm.

Tapestry needle: For weaving in ends and sewing pieces together.

Stitch markers: Optional but helpful for keeping track of rounds.

Scissors: Obviously.

Abbreviations Used in This Pattern

This pattern uses standard UK crochet terminology. If you’re used to US terms, a quick note: what we call double crochet (dc) here is the equivalent of a US single crochet (sc). There are no treble stitches in this pattern, so the terminology shouldn’t cause too much confusion.

ch — chain
sl st — slip stitch
dc — double crochet (UK) / single crochet (US)
inc — increase (2 dc in the same stitch)
dec — decrease (work 2 stitches together as one, also called dc2tog)
MR — magic ring
BLO — back loop only
st(s) — stitch(es)
rnd — round

Tension and Sizing

Because this is a small decorative item rather than a garment, tension doesn’t need to be exact, but it does matter more than you might think. You want your fabric to be firm and tight so the stuffing doesn’t poke through and so the charm holds its shape well. If you can see gaps between your stitches, go down a hook size.

With a 3mm hook and standard DK yarn, the finished sighthound charm should measure approximately 9cm from nose tip to hindquarters, with the body depth being around 3.5cm at its widest point. If you work with a 4ply or fingering weight yarn on a 2mm hook, you’ll produce a slightly smaller, more delicate charm. Both work beautifully.

The Pattern

Part One: The Body

The body is worked in a continuous spiral. You do not join rounds with a slip stitch unless instructed.

Rnd 1: Start with a magic ring. Work 6 dc into the ring. Pull tight. (6 sts)

Rnd 2: Inc in each st around. (12 sts)

Rnd 3: 1 dc, inc repeat to end of round. (18 sts)

Rnd 4: 2 dc, inc repeat to end of round. (24 sts)

Rnd 5: Work 24 dc even. (24 sts)

Rnd 6: Work 24 dc even. (24 sts)

This forms the rounded rump of your sighthound, which is intentionally wider than the chest to capture that characteristic deep-hindquarters build.

Rnd 7: 2 dc, dec repeat to end of round. (18 sts)

Rnd 8: Work 18 dc even. (18 sts)

Rnd 9: dec, 1 dc repeat to end of round. (12 sts)

This nipped-in section creates the tucked waist. This is where the sighthound silhouette really starts to appear.

Rnd 10: 1 dc, inc repeat to end of round. (18 sts)

Rnd 11: Work 18 dc even. (18 sts)

Rnd 12: Work 18 dc even. (18 sts)

The body is now widening again for the chest. Before you continue, insert your safety eyes between rounds 5 and 6, positioned toward the front of the piece. Actually, don’t attach the eyes yet — wait until you’ve made the head and are assembling. Set the body aside.

Rnd 13: 1 dc, dec repeat to end of round. (12 sts)

Begin stuffing the body firmly at this point. Add stuffing gradually as you close.

Rnd 14: dec repeat to end of round. (6 sts)

Fasten off with a long tail. Use your tapestry needle to close the remaining 6 stitches neatly and weave in the end.

Part Two: The Head

The head uses the same magic ring start and is worked as a separate piece that you will sew onto the body.

Rnd 1: MR, 6 dc. (6 sts)

Rnd 2: Inc in each st. (12 sts)

Rnd 3: 1 dc, inc repeat. (18 sts)

Rnd 4: Work 18 dc even. (18 sts)

Rnd 5: Work 18 dc even. (18 sts)

Rnd 6: 1 dc, dec repeat. (12 sts)

Now attach your safety eyes between rounds 3 and 4, with about 5 stitches between them. Position them toward the sides of the head, as greyhounds have eyes set wide for their famously broad field of vision. Add your stuffing now — the head should be firm but not rock-hard.

Rnd 7: dec repeat. (6 sts)

Close and fasten off with a long tail for sewing. Weave the tail through the outer loops of the remaining stitches to close smoothly.

Part Three: The Snout

This is what makes it unmistakably a sighthound. That long, elegant muzzle is the defining feature of the breed and you can’t skip it.

Rnd 1: MR, 4 dc. (4 sts)

Rnd 2: Inc in each st. (8 sts)

Rnd 3: 1 dc, inc repeat. (12 sts)

Rnd 4: Work 12 dc even. (12 sts)

Rnd 5: Work 12 dc even. (12 sts)

Rnd 6: Work 12 dc even. (12 sts)

Add a small amount of stuffing. Fasten off with a long tail for sewing. Before you sew the snout onto the head, embroider the nose with a few stitches of black yarn at the tip of the snout. A simple oval shape looks very effective.

Part Four: The Ears

Sighthound ears are a world of their own. Greyhounds have those characteristically folded rose ears, whippets have a similar style, and Italian Greyhounds have ears that fold but have a slightly different drape. This pattern makes simple folded ear flaps that read as sighthound ears immediately.

For each ear, make two:

Row 1: Ch 5, turn.
Row 2: 1 dc in the 2nd ch from hook, 1 dc in each remaining ch. (4 dc)
Row 3: Ch 1, turn. 1 dc in each st. (4 dc)
Row 4: Ch 1, turn. Dec, dec. (2 dc)
Row 5: Ch 1, turn. Dec. (1 dc)

Fasten off with a long tail. Fold each ear slightly along its length before sewing to create that characteristic rose ear drape. Attach to the top sides of the head, positioned fairly far back.

Part Five: The Legs

These are worked as small tubes and attached in pairs, two at the front of the chest area and two further back.

For each leg, make four:

Rnd 1: MR, 6 dc. (6 sts)
Rnd 2: Work 6 dc even. (6 sts)
Rnd 3: Work 6 dc even. (6 sts)
Rnd 4: Work 6 dc even. (6 sts)

Fasten off with a long tail. Do not stuff the legs — they look better and sit more naturally flat. Pinch the top of each leg flat before sewing to create a slight directional angle.

Part Six: The Tail

Sighthound tails are long, thin, and curved. This is achieved with a simple chain and slip stitch combination.

Ch 10. Starting in the 2nd ch from the hook, sl st back along the chain. Fasten off with a long tail for sewing. The tail will naturally curve, which is perfect.

Part Seven: The Hanging Loop

Ch 8. Join with a slip stitch to form a small ring. Fasten off with a tail. You’ll use this to attach the keyring hardware and sew it securely to the top of the body between the hindquarters and the waist.

Assembly

Assembly is where your little sighthound comes to life, and it’s worth taking your time here.

Start by sewing the snout onto the front centre of the head. The open end of the snout should sit flush with the head fabric, and you should use the long tail to sew all the way around the opening neatly. Pull firmly to make sure it’s secure.

Next, sew the head onto the front end of the body — the narrower, more pointed end that you closed in the final rounds. Position the head slightly upward, as if the dog is looking forward with that alert, noble expression sighthounds do so well. A slight tilt can also look charming and give your charm personality.

Attach the ears to the top of the head toward the back, using the folded method described above. A few firm stitches on each side is enough.

For the legs, position the front two legs just behind the head attachment point on the underside of the body. The back two legs go toward the hindquarters. Sew each one firmly. If you’d like the dog to appear to be mid-stride, angle the front legs forward and the back legs backward very slightly before sewing.

Sew the tail to the very back of the body, the closed end. Curl it slightly upward or sideways as you attach it.

Finally, sew the hanging loop to the top of the body at the highest point between the back of the neck and the beginning of the hindquarters. Thread your keyring hardware through the loop and close it securely.

Colour Variations and Personalisation

One of the loveliest things about this pattern is how much personality you can give each charm through colour. A fawn greyhound looks beautiful in a warm sand or biscuit DK. A blue greyhound calls for a soft grey. Brindle can be suggested with a tweedy or marl yarn, or even by holding two thin strands together. Black and white lurchers are a joy to make — simply switch colours between the body and certain patches.

A small crocheted collar adds a wonderful finishing touch. Chain 20, join to form a ring, and slip stitch back around the chain to form a firm little band. Use a contrast colour — deep red, emerald green, or royal blue all look striking. Slide it over the neck before the final assembly to position it at the dog’s throat.

You can also embroider a tiny name on a collar using a single strand of yarn and a tapestry needle, though this does require patience and very small stitches.

Tips for a Polished Finish

Working into the back loops only on certain rounds can create a slight ridge that suggests muscle definition, which looks particularly nice along the hindquarters of a greyhound charm. Try working rounds 5 and 6 of the body in BLO for this effect.

If your magic ring has any tendency to loosen over time, use a double strand for the first ring and pull very firmly. A small dab of clear fabric glue on the inside of the ring, once the piece is finished, can also help keep everything secure for a keyring that will take some daily wear.

Block your pieces very lightly with a damp cloth before assembly if you find the edges are curling more than you’d like. A very brief steam over a kettle works well for small pieces like these without requiring a full blocking board setup.

Safety eyes can be replaced with embroidered eyes if you’re making these for children under three, for rescue fundraising where items need to be universally safe, or simply because you prefer the softer look. Two or three satin stitches in black yarn in a small oval shape gives a very sweet, gentle expression.

Gifting, Selling, and Sharing Your Makes

This pattern is designed for personal use and for making gifts or charity sale items. If you do sell items made from this pattern, please credit the pattern and consider making a small donation to a greyhound or sighthound rescue of your choice. The rescue community does remarkable work, and they’ll be delighted by the support.

When you share your finished makes on social media, tag them with relevant hashtags for the sighthound community. You’ll find a warm, enthusiastic audience who will appreciate every last stitch. Greyhound people, in particular, have a deep appreciation for anything that celebrates their beloved breed, and handmade gifts go over especially well in a community that values the personal and the heartfelt.

A Few Final Thoughts

There is something deeply satisfying about creating a tiny version of a creature you love. This sighthound keyring crochet pattern lets you do exactly that — capture the long nose, the tuc