Simple Crochet Shoulder Bag | Free Pattern & Video Tutorial
There is something quietly satisfying about carrying a bag you made yourself. Every time you sling it over your shoulder, you get that small, private thrill of knowing your own hands did that. And the good news is that a crochet shoulder bag does not have to be a complicated, weekend-consuming project. With the right pattern and a little guidance, even a beginner crocheter can finish a beautiful, functional bag in just a few evenings.
This free crochet shoulder bag pattern is designed to be simple, stylish, and endlessly customizable. Whether you are brand new to crochet or you have been hooking for years and want a quick, satisfying make, this tutorial has you covered. We will walk through every step together, from the materials you need to the final finishing touches, and I have included a video tutorial at the bottom of the post so you can watch the technique in real time before you pick up your hook.
Let’s get started.
Why You Will Love This Crochet Shoulder Bag Pattern
Before we dive into the how-to, let me tell you a little about what makes this particular pattern worth your time.
First, it uses basic crochet stitches. You do not need to know any fancy stitch combinations or read complex charts. If you can single crochet and you know how to work in rows and rounds, you can make this bag. It is genuinely accessible to newer crafters while still being interesting enough to keep experienced crocheters engaged.
Second, it is a practical finished object. This is not a bag you will make and then store in a drawer. The finished dimensions give you a bag that fits a phone, wallet, keys, a small notebook, and all the other things you actually carry around. It sits comfortably on your shoulder and holds its shape well when you use a slightly firmer yarn or add an optional lining.
Third, the design is clean and modern. The simple stitch texture has a subtle, woven look that photographs beautifully and pairs with just about any outfit. It does not look overly crafty or homemade in the self-conscious way people sometimes worry about. It looks intentional and put-together.
And fourth, it is genuinely free. No email sign-up required, no Ravelry paywall, no partial preview. The full pattern is right here on this page.
Materials You Will Need
Getting your materials together before you start makes the whole process much smoother. Here is what you need for this crochet shoulder bag:
Yarn: Approximately 200 to 250 yards of worsted weight yarn (weight category 4). Cotton yarn works especially well for bags because it is sturdy and holds its shape, but a wool-blend or acrylic yarn will also give you great results. If you want a boho, natural look, a cotton-jute blend is a gorgeous choice. For a sleek, modern finish, a solid-color mercerized cotton in a neutral or rich jewel tone is hard to beat.
Hook: A 5.0mm (US H/8) crochet hook. If you tend to crochet tightly, go up to a 5.5mm hook. The fabric should be dense enough to hold its structure without being so stiff that it is uncomfortable to work with.
Notions: A yarn needle for weaving in ends and seaming, scissors, and two D-ring or O-ring hardware pieces if you want a detachable strap option. A stitch marker or two will also come in handy for tracking your rounds.
Optional: A piece of fabric for lining the interior (cotton canvas or a printed quilting cotton works beautifully), matching thread and a needle or a sewing machine, and a magnetic snap closure or a button for the flap.
Gauge: Approximately 14 single crochet stitches and 16 rows equal 4 inches (10 cm). Gauge is more important for bags than people sometimes assume, because it affects the final size and the density of the fabric. A loose gauge means a floppy bag; a tight gauge means a stiff one. Take a few minutes to swatch.
Finished Dimensions
The finished bag measures approximately 10 inches wide by 10 inches tall (before the flap), with a depth of about 2.5 inches. The shoulder strap is crocheted to approximately 45 inches, which gives a comfortable crossbody or shoulder length. You can adjust the strap length to your preference.
Abbreviations Used in This Pattern
If you are relatively new to reading crochet patterns, here is a quick guide to the abbreviations used throughout:
ch – chain
sl st – slip stitch
sc – single crochet
hdc – half double crochet
st(s) – stitch(es)
BLO – back loop only
sp – space
rep – repeat
pm – place marker
RS – right side
Pattern Notes
This bag is worked in two main sections: the body (which is worked in joined rounds to create a flat-bottomed bag with sides) and the flap (which is worked in rows and attached to the back of the bag). The strap is worked separately and sewn or attached with hardware.
Read through the entire pattern once before you begin. It is always easier to understand where you are going when you have a sense of the whole journey.
The bag uses single crochet through the back loop only (BLO) for the main body, which creates that lovely, ribbed, woven texture. If you prefer a smoother fabric, you can work through both loops as normal.
The Pattern
Part One: The Bottom Panel
The bag starts with a foundation that creates a flat, rectangular base. This gives the finished bag that structured, three-dimensional shape rather than a flat pouch.
Chain 31.
Row 1: Sc in the second ch from hook and in each ch across. (30 sc)
Row 2: Ch 1, turn. Sc in each st across. (30 sc)
Repeat Row 2 until you have a panel that measures approximately 2.5 inches tall. This should be around 10 rows depending on your gauge. Fasten off and set aside. This is your base.
Part Two: The Body
Now you will work in joined rounds around the perimeter of the base to build up the sides of the bag.
Join your yarn to any corner stitch of the base panel with a sl st.
Round 1: Ch 1. Work sc evenly around the entire perimeter of the base, placing 3 sc in each corner stitch to turn the corners neatly. Join with sl st to the first sc.
Count your stitches. You should have approximately 80 stitches total depending on how many rows your base has, but the exact number is less important than having an even count that works evenly around the perimeter.
Rounds 2 onward: Ch 1. Working in BLO, sc in each stitch around. Join with sl st to first sc at the end of each round.
Continue working these rounds until the sides of the bag measure approximately 9 to 10 inches from the base. This will take roughly 35 to 40 rounds depending on your tension.
At the end of the last round, do not fasten off. You will continue directly into the flap.
Part Three: The Flap
The flap is worked flat, back and forth in rows, starting from the back panel of the bag only.
Count the stitches along the back of the bag. This should be approximately 30 stitches (the same as your starting chain).
Row 1 (RS): Ch 1, turn. Sc BLO in the next 30 sts. Leave the remaining stitches unworked. (30 sc)
Row 2: Ch 1, turn. Sc BLO across. (30 sc)
Repeat Row 2 for approximately 10 to 12 rows. This creates a simple, rectangular flap that folds over the front of the bag.
Shaping the flap edge (optional): If you would like a rounded flap, work the final row as follows: work 10 sc, then hdc in next 2 sts, dc in next 2 sts, hdc in next 2 sts, sc in next 2 sts, then work the remaining stitches in sc. This creates a gentle curve along the center of the flap’s edge.
Edging the flap: With RS facing, work a single round of sc around the entire flap, placing 3 sc in each corner. Join with sl st and fasten off. Weave in ends.
Part Four: The Strap
The strap is worked as a long, narrow strip and can be attached directly to the bag or finished with D-ring hardware for a detachable option.
Chain 6.
Row 1: Sc in second ch from hook and in each ch across. (5 sc)
Row 2: Ch 1, turn. Sc in each st across.
Repeat Row 2 until the strap measures approximately 45 inches. You can try it on as you go by folding it over your shoulder and adjusting before you fasten off. Fasten off and weave in ends.
Attaching the strap: Thread each end of the strap through a D-ring, fold the end over by about an inch, and sew securely with your yarn needle and yarn, stitching back and forth several times. Then attach the D-rings to the side seams of the bag by crocheting or sewing a small loop of yarn through each ring and securing it firmly.
Alternatively, you can simply sew or crochet the strap ends directly to the top sides of the bag on each side if you prefer a fixed strap and a simpler finish.
Part Five: Finishing
Weave in all remaining ends carefully. If you have been working with cotton, give the ends a little tug before you weave them in so they do not work their way loose over time.
If you would like to add a closure, sew a magnetic snap to the inside center of the flap and the corresponding inside front of the bag. A button and a small crocheted loop also make a charming closure — chain 10, join the chain into a loop, and sew it to the edge of the flap, then sew a button to the outside front of the bag to match.
To line the bag, cut two pieces of fabric that are each approximately 11 by 11 inches and one strip that is approximately 3 by 30 inches for the sides. Sew them together with a half-inch seam allowance to form a fabric bag shape, press the seams flat, fold the top edge over by half an inch, and slip the lining inside your crocheted bag with the wrong sides together. Pin it in place and hand-stitch it to the inside of the bag just below the top edge. A lining adds structure, hides your yarn ends, and makes the bag feel more polished and finished.
Tips for Success
A few things that will make your finished bag look its absolute best:
Work consistently. Tension is everything in a bag, and the BLO single crochet method helps regulate it, but do your best to keep even tension throughout. If you notice your gauge drifting as you work, take a break and come back when you are relaxed.
Block it if you can. Cotton especially benefits from a little wet blocking. Dampen the finished bag lightly, shape it gently, and let it dry flat. It will look noticeably more polished.
Go up a hook size if the fabric feels too stiff and down a hook size if it feels floppy. The goal is a fabric with a bit of body to it, dense but not cardboard-like.
If you want a sturdier base, cut a piece of plastic canvas or stiff cardboard to the dimensions of your bottom panel and slip it inside before you add your lining. It makes the bag sit beautifully upright.
Yarn Substitution Ideas
The beauty of a simple pattern like this one is how dramatically different it can look depending on your yarn choice. A few combinations worth trying:
A thick, natural cotton twine gives a structured, market-bag feel with a casual, rustic look. A single skein of variegated yarn in autumn tones creates a bag that looks like it took infinitely more skill than it did. A soft, heathered wool-blend in charcoal or forest green has a sophisticated, timeless quality. And if you want something truly show-stopping, a metallic ribbon yarn worked alongside a standard worsted weight creates a subtle shimmer that is especially lovely for evenings out.
Do not be afraid to use up stash yarn for this project. As long as the weight is approximately worsted and you check your gauge, almost anything will work.
Video Tutorial
Sometimes seeing a technique in motion makes all the difference, especially for the BLO single crochet ribbing and the process of working rounds up from the base panel. I have put together a full video tutorial that walks through every step of this pattern in real time. You can find it embedded below, and also on my YouTube channel where it is saved to the crochet bags playlist.
(Embed your video here.)
In the video I also show you how to attach the D-ring hardware and how to do a quick, no-fuss lining, so even if you are comfortable with the written pattern, the video is worth a watch for those finishing sections.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can I use a different yarn weight? Yes, absolutely. A bulky weight yarn on a 6.5mm hook will give you a chunkier, slightly more casual bag that works up incredibly quickly. A DK weight on a 4mm hook will give you a finer, smaller bag. Just adjust your stitch counts accordingly to reach your desired dimensions.
How do I clean this bag? That depends on your yarn. Cotton bags can generally be machine-washed on a gentle cycle in a mesh laundry bag and laid flat to dry. Check your yarn label. Wool-blend bags should usually be hand-washed and reshaped while damp.
Can I sell bags made from this pattern? Yes. This is a free pattern for both personal and small-business use. If you sell bags made from this pattern, a credit or tag is always appreciated but not required.
My bag is pulling to one side. What went wrong? This sometimes happens if the tension in your join stitches at the end of each round is slightly tighter than the rest of your work, which can cause a subtle lean. Try joining more loosely, or try using a jogless join technique for rounds.
Final Thoughts
A crochet shoulder bag is one of those projects that gives you so much more than just a bag at the end of it. It gives you a few evenings of peaceful, rhythmic crafting, a genuinely useful finished object, and the pleasure of seeing a skill you practiced translate into something real and wearable. This pattern is designed to give you all of that without frustration, and I hope it becomes one of those makes you return to again and again in different yarns and colors.
If you make this bag, I would love to see it. Share a photo in the comments below or tag me on Instagram. There is nothing I enjoy more than seeing these patterns come to life in someone else’s hands with their own yarn choices and their own small variations. Every one turns out a little different, and every one is wonderful.
Happy crocheting.
